Yikes.. Did I just stick both feet in my mouth??? I really dont mean to pass along mis-information... Honest.

Not only have I been told that F/I cams perform poorly (I substituted for word "crap") on an N/A car, but, when I had an F/I Corvette with my stock cam, the car didnt run too good.. As soon as I put in a "blower" cam it really woke the car up.

When you say there is LESS power ontop, it is a significant difference isnt it? If it's significant then to me that means "crap".. If it's not, then, to myself...

 

Well I started this a while back!! I ID the part number of SLR cams, under the CLK Forums. then it blead over to this forum. Rflow306 I'm glad you Stated the Obvious. Diff between a 5.5 SOHC and The 6.3 DOHC. What really worries me Guy's is the Cam gear sprocket position!! and its postion being farther forward / outward .030 - .040+ This leads the timing chains , to no longer run in true alignment. on the Guides & tensioner. Or to the Crankshaft drive sprocket. Please think Here!! While they have already formed a path / wear pattern. with the stock Sprocket position . I would think you would need both cam gears ?. Right side & drivers side.Be careful here , I see a potential failure issues.that would come with extended use beyond testing . Milling the spoke flats/sensor windows down on the 5.5 cam gear is a temporary fix for testing purpose only. Do not forget to change the sprocket other Bank.(Driverside) Now I've do it. !!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Wow, so you guys can get an engine ientical to the SLR for sub $4000? What is the differencde of the SLR engine and CLK-DTM engine?

Anyone want to buy M5 E60 headers for $7000

 

LMAO!!

 

Always room for another E55'r Gustav....come on in!!! Oh before I forget, it's for only bout 20K, you can have near the performance of the SLR motor. Cams and rockers arms were just a 4500$ piece to the puzzle. Nothing ever matches the monster though.

Hey PTE thanks for the info. Already got that in the works. VRUS has gears on the way and I will have my guy do them when we do the throttle body.

It is scary for sure. Mechanic said the same thing....these things are built to pretty tight tolerances, just scary to start messing with things.

I wish the "side by side" pic turned out. That cams look near identical in length or he said he wouldn not have touched it. Everything fit and seated perfectly, then WHAM. It was weird.

Who knows, maybe I will be posting in tears with a torn up motor in 6 months and so again for the 2342312123123th time, do this at your own risk.

 

Here, allow me.

I would liken it to removing Kleemann cams from your car and re-installing the stock cams. Noticeable, but not overly significant.

WRT your Vette, w/o knowing the specifics I can't really comment, but typically, installing a blower on a stock Vette creates a monster. I would suspect there was something wrong with the setup if it ran like crap.

 

Hi Folks. Sorry for my earlier thread response. I guess my ADHA checked in. To many coffees !! and I've been on the road All week Tweeking engine maps. My meds ran out yesterday!!. I would like to commend Jakpro1 for his willingness to stick his motor out there as a test horse. His tennasity for sticking to it , too find the out come and Share it with all of us . He has rewarded his technicion at the MB dealer graciously . I wanted make sure that all bases where covered , in the fact I said that the Kleemann cams & Schrick cams were of a similiar grind to the SLR grind. I'm happy that all worked out well , but keep inmind Jakpro1 is doing the testing & evaluation. It looks positive so far. Thanks ___PTE___

 

CAN I MAKE these work in my c55!!!!!!!!!!!?

 

This sounds very similar to what S4 guys do, and we do that by taking the cams out of the RS4 cylinder head. The RS4 cams flow more with a longer duration and are made for the slightly larger K04 turbos and the slightly bigger RS4 injectors (I haven't noticed in this conversation is if anyone has checked to see if the SLR injectors are the same?)... it gives a nice little bump in power but for guys on stock injectors it does lean out the top end...

A few general comments:

If SLR cams do run a longer duration and flow more air, it is imporant to be checking A/F ratios and EGTs especially at redline to make sure the motor is still happy... the E55 runs quite rich in stock tune but we need to be very careful about the heavy-load, upper-rpm implications of running a hotter cam... don't want to burn up any pistons.

Please don't even think about putting regrinds into an E55... or any Mercedes...

F/I vs N/A cam profiles - Grumpy I don't necessarily agree with you that cams between the same engine, one built for N/A and one built for F/I will run "just fine". If the motor configuration (IE, injector, cylinder heads, compression ratio, etc) are close enough, yes, the cams both ways should run well, but when you take something like a 300hp N/A version of the motor, and pit it's config against the 500hp F/I version - the two cam profiles won't always like being interchanged. This doesn't necessarily mean they will run like crap but they won't run well... you are talking two very different power bands, fuel consumption, airflow #s, etc. I know there are examples of ones that are close, but in my experience if a cam is matched well enough to a particular F/I motor, sticking the N/A version of that motor's cam into the F/I car has not been people's first avenue when looking for swapping out their cam.

Has anyone flowed a set of E55 heads yet?

Keep up the good work...

-m

 

Oh, yeah. Poor - very poor. Especially exhaust port.

Think stock Mustang 5.0L head and you are right there. Intake on MB is a bit better.

 

I would have thought this would be one of the first "ports" of call to free up the breathing on the heads on this motor.... I reckon porting the heads will add much more HP than any cam change will... Victor aren't you busy with this project too ?? The combination will be lethal!!!

Anyone know what they have done to the SLR 722 taking HP to 641... from 620 odd?

 

I starting to think Vadim is the Mod Instagitor to Vrus...

 

In psychology circles, he would be known as the "enabler"

 

You guys are too funny...

I have a set of heads which I am going to do some testing on.. First step is to do some sonic testing of the heads and see what we have to work with.. Then the flow bench will give us some numbers.

After that, the idea is port & polish intake & exhaust, possibly new oversize valves, etc, etc.. Once I have the first step complete I'll post info on the head project.

 

Jim,

Got your SLR Cam gears for you!!!

I will pack them up and ship them out either tonight or first thing Monday morning -- Fedex Air so you should get them in 2 days.

I'll snap a pic later and post them so everyone can see what they look like.

 

daym, I want!

 

Jim,

Here's your SLR cam gears buddy!!

They arrived from Germany and we picked them up this afternoon. I'll email you the tracking # Monday when I get home from work.

 

I hope you made some measurements of those cam gear Vrus!!!! hint hint

 

Measurements?? Nope.. Why? What do you need? I figure I can get them whenever I want, so, when the time comes I can order another set..

Do you need me to check something specific before I send them to Jim?

 

Guys am I bit lost...will those CAMS works or not ??? Does ECU needs to be adjusted ???

 

As it stands now...cams will fit and operate, but the cam gear on the end of the cam moved slightly outward ( I mean less than a mm) and made contact with the cam sensor and ground it down....scary. ***Notice the nub sticking down right around 12-o-clock on the cam pic below. That is the part that made contact with the cam sensor and has to be ground down. (course this is SLR pic here so hopefully this nub is smaller)

Since this has never been done, we are all kinda guessing at this point that the SLR cam gear has been milled slightly different and everything will go back into spec.

If it does not (can not get a stock or SLR cam sensor to fit without grinding it) then I would declare this a very risky mod.

For now, car is still strong on acceleration but just miserable at red lights. Near stalling, surging just about every time it kicks to first and THAT is a party with 600+hp trying to surge on ya. CEL is now on solid so there's more work to be done here before I declare this the "miracle mod"

Back to the dealer with cam gears and TB for tuning and even more HP next week.

Gonna give up and go to the country bumpkin dyno guy. He kept screaming, "Ya git...what cha git...no ADD-jus-munts here" so expect these number to be super low on this Mustang, but it will give us and solid before and after for V's throttle body.

 

The grinding of your so-called nub is probably what's causing your low-speed surging. That nub is what the cam position sensor detects, which controls your ignition timing. The spacing betwen the nub and the sensor is critical for proper detection of the magnetic field (the sensor is based on the Hall effect). For the more sophisticated cam detectors, there are usually threshholds programmed into the sensor, which determine when the voltage signal is sent to the ECU for position detection. If the spacing is off, or the nub was ground unevenly, camshaft detection could be eratic, and would probably be more noticeable at lower RPMs.

Your stock gears can no longer be used with your stock cams.

If the grinding needs to be done in the future, you need to measure the spacing on a stock setup and then have the gears machined on a lathe to achieve that spacing. Or take them to a machine shop for CNC milling.

When the SLR gears are installed, could you take pics of the two different gears next to each other in the same orientation? (IOW, both nubs at the 12 o'clock position). Both sides, please. Thanks.

Once again, if you would like to know the specs on your cams, I can measure them.

 

I think CAM sesnsoer mistake makes your car go in some kind of SAFE mode and that is why its not perfoming well...

 

Any updates on this? I'm just curious to see what kind of outcome would be with SLR cams in an E55. The car does sound like it went into limp mode, and I'm glad I went with Kleemann cams instead of SLR's, the trouble is just too much to deal with.

 

The solution (communicated to me by Chromikey) is to use a 0.050" spacer on the driver's side cam and and to make a 0.050" grind on the passenger side cam.

Yeah, a person needs a fair amount of risk tolerance to choose SLR cams instead of Kleemann. I'm not sure I'd have been as venturesome as Jakpro1 was in going first but I'm happy following in his wake.