vrus

I thought I would share some info with you guys on one of the projects I am working on since I hinted about it a few times..

I have been talking to a few people and gathering data on what can be done with the E55 heads to extract more power. Based on some feedback I've gotten, 40hp - 50hp will be an easy target.. Possibly 70hp with the right changes.

Here are some thoughts on the approach to be taken:
- simple exhaust port opening
- possibly slightly larger exhaust valve
- SLR cams & cam gears being thrown in
- ceramic coating the combustion chambers and exhaust valves
- some porting & polishing (extrude honing all the runners)
- We are also discussing possibly getting Ferea to make a custom set of lightweight intake valves and some stronger spring pressures.

I have to get my shop to do some initial sonic testing and flow them in stock form so we can see what we have to work with.

And, here is what these puppies look like. Enjoy!!

BoBcanada

Victor you are crazy Fanatic!!! You sink alot of money in it eh? Prolly could've buy an SL65 by now

Keep up the good work!

chiromikey

i would easily consider cams and a good port and polish job. the rest to me would be overkill and not worth the extra money especially since there isn't much hp yeild in it.

...and this time i want your promise of a pre and post dyno run (flow bench #'s don't count) cause i'm not going to ruin a set of heads without verified gains.

dragonAMG

nice pics... by the look of those things, 50hp should be easy. Keep up the good work.

jangy

Victor, dude. Let's set this company up right. You focus on power and I'll do the handling and PR (with my people skills). You got nuts of steal taking that thing apart like it were a stapler.

L8Apex

Sounds like fun! Plus, it should give you some nice gains. My M3 gained 18rwhp with just a little head work port/polish and a 7 angle valve grind. I also replaced the stock valves with a set that had a much smaller tulip. This not only increased flow but lowered the overall weight of the valve (titanium retainers and keepers helped too). You can see the difference in this pic below.



Off subject, do you know how much hp the stock injectors and fuel pump can handle in the 55?

chiromikey

the smaller tulip increased flow...that seems counterintuitive.

*edit* after looking at your original valve, simply grinding a better shaped tulip should increase flow so nevermind.

vrus

hahahah.. Yeah.. I told you guys I wasnt going to stop until I hit 700hp.. If it costs me 2 x SL65 I want to see my car dyno 580rwhp and then I will be happy.

Done deal!

Thanks! I think 50hp should be fairly easy also. I'm shooting for 70hp but I'll take 50hp.

hahahah... I am looking for investors.. Wanna invest a bit of money into VRP??

P.S-> Those are a spare set of heads.. they aren't off my car.

I agree Rob! Based on everything I am hearing, it is very easy to see big gains with heads on our cars... SLR cams + done up heads should be 70hp without breaking a sweat.

BoBcanada

What a lier!!!!

MARK CUMMINS

Make sure that the (SHOP) that does the head work will CC the heads, Port and polish
and flow them ...dont forget to match the Intake manifold and headers to the Enlarged ports for best HP gains

any pics of the under side of the heads.... room for larger valves?

Grumpy666

In general, valves with a larger tulip provide more airflow compared to valves with smaller tulips. Companies such as AFR offer tulip valves as an option to their head offerings and advertise them as flowing more air. For a BB Chevy, they increase flow 10-15 CFM.

L8Apex

Interesting. In my car, the flow test on the head increased the CFM's by10% just by changing the design of the valve head. Philosophy being the less mass you have the less air restriction that you will have. We flowed back to back valves. Large valve vs small tullip and stock valve vs small tullip (t) and across the board we gained 10%. So if you retain the stock valve size and change the shape of the valve you can gain roughly 10% in a 3.0l m3. With less of the valve occupying space that would otherwise be filled with air fuel mix you get more flow and a venturi effect with a small tulip shape valve compared to a large tulip. Toyota had a great video of this in their F1 engine. If I find it I'll post it.

From BritBike:There is a lot to consider with these valves. The smaller tulip head is very effective in chambers with no to mild stem angle relative to the bore axis. As the stem angle becomes more obtuse, the lesser low-lift flow of a tulip head becomes more efficent as more flow passes around the valve radially towards the bore center.

Which shape is preferable? Depending on lift, bore size vs. valve position at full lift, seat angle, bore to stroke ratio, max RPM etc. the shape could go either way on many engines.

How this helps an e55? don't know. Let the flow bench tell the story. It's worth a look.

Jrocket

Google is a wonderful thing.

Grumpy666

Please - if you're going to cut & paste from another web site, please post the URL so that we may see the context of that info.

L8Apex

sure : http://www.britbike.com/ubb/cgi-bin/...1;t=001727;p=1 4th post. You can find the same info on any Hemi, Mopar or Triumph site.

blackbenzz

Nice! I cant wait to see the results. I am considering port and polishing the heads on my Kleemann CLK55. Your results will have a large impact on what I decide to do. But wait, you're putting in different cams at the same time and only expecting 50hp?

vrus

SLR Cams & Cam Gears have been ordered and should be on their way from Germany.

If anyone else wants to piggy-back on this order, now is the time.. These SLR Cams are in very SHORT supply.. If you want a set, speak up now so when heads are ready, the cams will be there.

Custom valves being made.. Neck-down is being reworked.. Not sure if the stock valves in the car are sodium filled or not, but I am going to request a sodium filled valve to help with heat dissipation.

Also, all the exhaust valves and combustion chambers will be heat coated also.

This is the way I am going to package these:

Stage 1: Heads ported & polished on exhaust side only, combustion chamber cleanup, port match intake manifolds. Heads will be shipped completely assembled.

Stage 2: Stage 1 components + SLR Cams & Cam Gears

Stage 3: Heads ported & polished, intake & exhaust reworked, heat coated combustion chambers, new custom valves with custom neck-downs, sodium filled, heat coated.

The heads will be built & ready to go.. Anyone that wants a set will purchase the heads + pay for the core charge for any parts we use.. Once you receive the heads & install in your car, you send back your stock cores and the core charge is refunded..

This will allow everyone minimal downtime. We ship the stuff to your installer, they re/re the heads & intake manifolds and ship us back the stock components.

Downtime for your car should be 2 days.

Let's Rock!!!

Kens-E55

VRUS:

You crazy man you!
Some basic ?'s:

1.) - Do you have any idea as to gains in Hp?
2.) - Is the stage 2 with SLR cams the "JAKPRO" design requiring modif'cation?
3.) - As always............How much $ for each stage?

I'm sure I'll think of more ?'s later...so you can me now and get
it over with. You're a madman and we all benefit!!

Vadim @ FD

Exhaust valve is sodium filled, intakes are not.

You can go 1mm up on intake, that is about it. There is no room to go up on exhaust. You will shroud the valve.

vrus

1) I've been told with Stage 1 setup +40hp should be doable. Stage 2 should add an additional 20hp or 30hp on top of Stage 1 (at least). Stage 3 is really too early to tell.. I will be testing the limits of the fuel pump, injectors, etc.. I dont know what "wall" I will hit first.. I am hoping for 70hp - 90hp. This is all conjecture at this point because I havent seen any hard numbers from anyone.

2) The cams & cam gears & 2 spacers will be supplied which basically moves the cam gear away from the sensor. It is the setup that was done for JakPro by his mechanic. It is perfectly safe since all we are doing is spacing the gear & sensor. Perfectly fine setup. The spacers will be punched out as a solid piece and I will probably make 50 of them.

3) Way too early to tell but if I had to guess... Stage 1 will be $1,799 + core charges. Stage 2 adds an addition $2550 for the SLR stuff so that makes it $4350. Stage 3 will probably be $5,500.. These are all numbers that I pulled from just doing some basic research.. As things progress I'll have more solid info...

Also, I may work out a deal with the people doing the work for pricing on 5 sets of each stage. Gauge interest from you guys and then figure out the best way to package these up so we get the most efficient use of our money.


You are right on the money Vadim!!! 1mm on the intake and no bigger on the exhaust is EXACTLY what we were told!! The exhaust valves are just too close together to go any bigger and I dont want to chance causing a problem.

I know the SLR uses sodium filled exhaust valves but wasnt sure if the W211 did.. The valves I am having made will be lightweight with better neck down and sodium filled and heat coated. I am not sure if I can just get the stock valves reworked on the neckdown or just make entirely new valves from scratch??? What do you think?

stevebez

VRUS ... think you are going OTT here ... really. But I still love it.

I think port / polish with cams is all we need here in terms of getting most out of the bang x buck x time x effort x complexity equation.

chiromikey

what concerns should we have regarding ecu tuning to the head/cam work?

dragonAMG

I LOVE IT!!!!

I'm assuming you're going to test everything out on your car before you start selling the kits and we will see a dyno, correct?

If that is the case and you are making 70+ hp, count me in for the STAGE 3.

mbamg06e55

Victor,

One quick question... Conservitively how many CAMELS are the internals good for before we hit the compromise point?

Grumpy666

DerekFSU hit 131 mph in the 1/4 mile on the juice. That puts him in the 750 HP neighborhood. A forged rotating assembly will tolerate a lot of power, as long as the tune is good and you keep the RPMs within reason (say for example, under 6500). There's probably more left in this engine, but I would start thinking about upgrading the rod bolts at that point.