tigerlam92

Replacing just the front brake pads was a snap. It took less than 30 minutes. For anyone interested, below is the instructions.

Steps after pulling wheels:
1. Turn steering wheel all the way to the right (to replace driver side)
2. Turn power to car completely off (for keyless, cycle through a couple of times) I left my trunk open at all times and actually left my key someone far and safe
3. (Optional) pull negative to battery (I didn't do this and didn't want to do it)
4. Pull SBC connector off (behind passenger head lights) (by pulling up on the locking mechanism, the connector should just slide out, very simple and you will hear the pressure relieving)
5. Pull brake sensor connector, and using a #8 socket, remove sensor-mounting bracket
6. Use a hammer to lightly tap the two pins out
7. Use a wire cutter to grab hold of the pin’s heads (use the hammer to tap the cutter holding the pin out)
8. The two brackets will come right off and expose the four brake pads
9. Use a wedge or screwdriver to push back the calipers with the old pads to make room for the thicker new pads
10. Remove the old pads and install the new pads with the new brake sensor. You can use the cutter instead of your fingers
11. Replace in reverse order back to step 1
12. Repeat on passenger side starting at step 1 but turn wheel to the left

This is extremely easy, probably the easiest to do in any car. I don't see how you would lose a finger unless you stick your fingers between the calipers and rotors and have someone reinstalled the SBC connector, power on the car, and pump the brakes.

After replacing just the pads and not the rotors, the brakes work very well, no warning, no sounds, and no sponginess. I would NOT recommend other to not replace the rotors unless you understand and know what you are doing. The rotors we have are very big and very thick. For me, I see no problem in reusing my rotors. I will replace them the next time I change the pads though. If my rotors were cracking through or very uneven, I would have replaced them. This means I can swap in same PF1 pads at the racetrack.

Disclaimer - Do this at your own risk. I take no responsibility to any actions coming from this thread.

tigerlam92

rflow306 (Albert) has some good pictures and instructions as well.

Cheers
--Hugh

IndecentSC

I'm planning on tackling this job. i did a bunch of brake jobs before. my question is the SBC connector is located on the ABS module?

bmdavid79

What is the SBC connector stand for? Thanks

ProV1

if u must ask, perhaps you should let your shop do the job. imo

FASN8N

It is really sad that you have to put a disclaimer on everything these days

jimmydagreek

Nice!!! Good write up!

GRAFH

You forgot to check the rotors for minimum thickness and also to have them turned/ cut before installing the new pads.

BBBSS

I agree this is the best way, but a dealer slapped new pads on my car when I bought it without cutting the rotors. They were fine on my inspection other than a small lip along the outside but well within thickness spec and smooth so I was ok with it. If you wanha get fancy throw a dial indicator on it and give it a spin and check for runout. I don't like cutting my rotors unless its needed as it just takes away more metal and they heat up and fade out faster. More metal the better.

citylightva

Except a 63 with no SBC

novae500

Thats one thing that Mercedes got right!! Easy DIY brake pad replacements. Did my friend's CLK320 and was lightning fast as well. Knock out the pins for the rears and replace pads. Fronts, had to use a torx to undo the brake sensor and hex bolt to remove a bracket holding caliper to rotor.

GRAFH

Just because the dealer did it doesn't mean it's right. This can cause uneven pad wear.