SANDOVAL

In my Case Kleemann Pulley Installation...

After performing this installation for the first time I feel much more comfortable doing it a second time in about an hour and a half. I did not have any diagrams or guidence as to what needed to be disassembled. So there was a lot of "figuring stuff out". I would rate this a 6/10 on a scale of difficulty. If you know what needs to be removed and what to look out for it's a pretty easy install. If you take your time you should have no problem doing it. Also be very careful with the shat key and pulley groove that is a critical point in the installation. TAKE YOUR TIME!

Tools:

Breaker Bar
27MM Socket short, deep
8mm,10mm & 13mm Socket
½, 3/8, & ¼ Ratchet & Extensions
2 Large flat head screw drivers
1 Small flat head screw driver
Needle nose pliers
15 Torx on a socket
17mm closed box Wrench
200+ Lb Torque Wrench
13mm Bolt 3” or so in length
Grease
Coolant
Floor Jack, Jack stands or lift

Bottom:
- Jack up the front end or lift the car
- remove three front belly pans under the car (8mm socket on ratchet)
- Remove the 15 torx screws that hold the hose brackets to the fan housing
- remove the black plastic dust cover on torque converter (Near the center on the front of the tranny in)

Top:

- Pop the front engine vanity cover off the clips a little yank and they pop out
- Remove the front belt by using a 17mm wrench to move the belt tensioner
- Remove the plastic crush pins that secure the black rubber gasket that runs front to back.
- Remove round plastic pins size of 1/2 dollar and the plastic rectangular piece under the plastic pin
- remove the six 10 mm bolts (3 left & 3 right) this secures the metal bracket that goes over the radiator
- remove the 2 10mm bolt that secures the bracket from the bottom
- set bracket forward out of the way revealing the radiator and fan
- pop 2 fan clips out with screw driver
- detach fan wiring harness

*optional step
- pull top radiator hose pin out with needle nose pliers. Place catch pan under the hose pull hose some coolant will pop out. If you have two people you can pull hose while pulling the fan up and out and then put the hose back in for minimal coolant loss. If you skip this step getting the fan out is not that big of a deal but getting the fan back in is difficult as the fan catches on the hoses.

-Pull fan completely out of the car


Bottom:
- using 17mm Socket on ratchet pull the lower tensioner to remove the rear belt. I did not remove the rear belt completely I just took it off one pulley.
- In the torque converter you will see 13mm bolts (You may need to spin the pulley with a 27mm socket and ratchet/breaker bar to reveal one of many 13 mm bolts) Remove one bolt. You will need another 13mm bolt with the same thread pitch I would say 3" is good. Thread the long bolt in enough to get a good grab. Maybe 6 turns. when you turn the pulley it will lock the pulley in order to give you the ability to remove the pulley bolt.

Top

- Now your ready to remove the pulley nut. Using a larger breaker bar and 27mm socket (deep may be required or socket and small extension) Remove the pulley bolt. It is a normal thread so lefty loosely rightly tightly. Once you break it loose use a 1/2 ratchet to remove the bolt.

- The pulley takes some wiggling and pressure to get it to move. We had one person on the bottom and one on top using flat headed screw drivers to apply pressure outwards while taping with a rubber mallet.
- bring the pulley up through the top
- new pulley mark where the key groove is with nail polish or similar paint. line the groove up with the key on the shaft. Again have someone on the bottom holding the pulley while the top person positions the pulley and aligns the key. Some of this is going to be "feel" though the pulley. We also used some grease to make the pulley slide on easier.
-When they pulley is set on the key start threading the large bolt the pulley should start moving back in to place. 200Lb of Torque needs to be applied. My TQ wrench only went up to 150 so it gave me a chance to pick up a bigger wrench $120 at sears for 1/2 Craftsman.


Top & Bottom

- Go in reverse and put everything back together. **** DON'T FORGET TO REPLACE THE 13mm BOLT IN THE TORQUE CONVERTER BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE****

tigerlam92

Nice write up.

Except for one thing that you should correct! Can you edit to make sure people do not reuse the crank pulley bolt. According to the dealer they designed this crank pulley bolt to be a "torque to yield" one time use bolt only. You need to replace that bolt. They told me in person, is in their instruction, and is commonly known here now.

Edit - second most important correction is the torque spec should be 200 Nm (not lb-ft) <200 newton meter = 147.5 pound foot> and an additional 90 degree.

Do a sneaky reset, drive it for 100 miles or so, and get the car dyno.

SANDOVAL

I am aware of the 1 use bolts. Porsche is the same way, I guess I am a gambler.

OzE55

Great job with the photos.

SANDOVAL

Tiger,
I did the sneaky reset tonight before I left for dinner and my car was all over the map. At one point the car felt like it was sluggish not really putting the power down. almost as if the engine was bogging down. Has anyone else experienced his? When I took the car out again after dinner the car had normal power. Weird? I did put a Kleeman pulley on could that be the cause and not the Sneaky reset? Could the computer still be adjusting to the additional intake? Telling me WTF do I do with the extra air? I checked the beltsbefore driving after dinner the pulley, belts (tight and in the grooves), everything was intact.

tigerlam92

When I first installed the pulley, I didn't really feel the power either. After a good amount of miles 50-100 miles it really woke up. The other thing is that with the 2003 and 2004, the IC pump is notorious for going bad. You probably know this already. So right after I put in the pulley, the SC won't engage or just engage for the the first WOT and half of that. You may be experiencing this.

good luck
--Hugh

jangy

Is the new pulley 165mm?

phatmitzu

nice write up. Thanks!

waxking1

I just found this thread. I wish I had seen this thread before I started. This is pretty good information for someone doing a pulley.

Can someone tell me exactly how to find the bolt to lock the torque converter? I thought they might be inside one of the two small black plastic covers but I didn't see anything. The Renntech pulley has the notches for the tool, but they are not deep enought to hold the pulley.

rflow306

You can also use a chain wrench like this http://cgi.ebay.com/Blue-Point-Snap-...QQcmdZViewItem

then all you need is an old piece of belt to wrap around the pulley then use the chain wrench to keep the engine from moving. This is the way I have done mine with-out having to remove the fan but you must work from the bottom of the car.

waxking1

Thanks for the help rflow but I found the torque converter hatch behind the O2 sensor wiring harness clamps. I had to pull the engine around with the pulley bar to find a bolt. I removed one and pulled a longer one out of my bolt kit, put about four nuts on it for spacers and put it back in to lock the converter.

I know its 145 ft lbs on the wrench plus 90 degrees, but this seemed like too much to me. My 1/2" breaker bar had a big bow in it and I only went about 50 degrees. I thought my bar or the bolt might break if I pulled any more so I stopped there. I put the original bolt back in the converter and popped the cover back on. I hope the hardest part is now behind me.

TopGun32

same here..

same holds true with the oil pan bolts.. its optional in my book.. I inspected both bolts and washers. no issues.