Adjustable Air Ride Sensor arm installation:

Vendor: http://adjustableairride.com/



So the fronts are pretty simple I used a low rise lift but if you jack the front end up then you can get to the arms from the top. They are towards the front bumper next to the top of the strut. The lever with the ball joint is plastic so be very careful I used two thick flat head screwdrivers to pop the arms off the ball. once you get one end off the other end comes off much easier by twisting while pulling out. You will want to buy a digital caliper Harbor Freight or Checker has them for $10-20 This way you get a precise measure. John sends them out basically at the stock height. By moving the locking nut or bushing head (depending on front or rear) you can set the height and then move the nut or head up and down. I went with 4mm for my drop 8mm was WAYYYY to much. The fronts took about 5-10 minutes. The rear is tricky. You can find the arm above the rear differential access it from the drivers side. Remove the arm joint that is closest to the front bumper. You will use a long flat head screwdriver (or 2) to reach it. It takes a little finesse but it pops off just like the front. The rear section of the arm is connected to a plastic arm attached to the sensor. Remove the two silver (10mm on a ratchet w/extension) nuts that are 3" or so apart from each other and slide the sensor up and out. Use a flat head or long needle nose pliers to pop the arm off. The sensor should be hanging down under the bracket it was connected to when removing the arm. Take the arm out and lower the arm 4mm or desired length using the caliper (Front arms lower=longer Rear arms lower= Shorter) using two 10mm wrenches lock the nut and bushing head in place. Now re-attach the arm to the rear sensor arm. Put the sensor arm back into place dropping the two studs into the holes. Screw the two 10mm nuts back on. Next tool you will want to have is one of those long grabber tools they sell at checker, sears, harbor freight. Hold the arm with the grabber tool by the nut. placing the head on top of the ball joint use a pair of curved long Needle nose pliers to pop the bushing over the ball joint. You need the curved needle nose a screw driver does not have the right angle. (Also I used silicone spray to lube up the ball joint and bushing) After doing the install the 2nd time it took me 20 minutes to do the front and rear. All and all this is a very easy DIY install.


Tools:

10mm Socket
Ratchet & long extension
2 10 mm wrenches
2 flat head screw drivers (longer in size)
Curved long Needles nose pliars
Grabber Tool
Digital Caliper
Silicone spray
Floor jack or lift



http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47257



http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94162

 

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Looks great! I have the same kit in my car, rear was a real PITA!!

 

Looks great!!! Wish I would have gone that route and saved $1,000

 

I'm considering to put my car lower (it's stock now ) but don't know about star dialogtic or adjustable lower kit which one are better , beside do you have to do aligment after low your car ?

 

Great write-up and thanks for the photos.
Looks great.

 

Thanks for the write up and pics. I forget at what speeds and by how much our cars automatically lower.. My question is, does the car get even lower when that takes effect?

 

So what is the consensus, Renntech ELM or adjustable ride links or star?
I realize there is a considerable difference in price between the options that will influence the decision.
I believe the airmatic automatically lowers at 70mph?

 

I am going to get an alignment just to be safe. Car pulled a little to the right before the install. I am not sure what harm the drops do to the system but they have to be doing the same thing by fooling the sensor or telling it to go lower. Right? For $225 I can't see how the electronic module could be better unless you need to adjust the heights regularly, even then it means splice into a dozen wires.

 

Pictures!!