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PTE T-Stat Updates (Long)

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Old 05-24-2007, 10:54 AM
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PTE T-Stat Updates (Long)

First of all, this thread is absolutely NOT intended to be anything negative about Patrick or his high quality customized t-stats. He is a true gentleman and a very knowledgable guy. I have one of his stats and ran it for about 30 days before I got a "Check Engine" light that my SA said indicated "faulty thermostat." He knew about the stat swap, so he proposed simply clearing the fault code and seeing if it came back. Sure enough, it did about 2 dozen starts later. Patrick sent me the stiffer spring assembly that has cured this issue in the past, and I had my tech swap it out and clear the fault code again. About 30 days later, it was back with the same "faulty thermostat" code. I ended up putting the factory assembly back in just becuase I couldn't stand staring at that bright yellow "Check Engine" light and having EVERY passenger quiz me about it.

I absolutely LOVED the stat. I know it definitely kept things cooler under the hood and I think the car felt plenty strong with it. Actually, Cory at Kleemann said that in some ways, the fuel air mixture at lower temps is similar to the fuel air ratio he programs into his Stage I flash, so he said he wouldn't be surprised if having the car think its running cooler than "stock" could imrpove performance to the extent that it affects the fuel air ratio.

I have since done the Kleemann Stage I set up with the full Evo cooling upgrade kit with phenolic spacers. The car runs like a brute, but I would feel better if that temp gauge on the dash were down a couple of bars. With the full EVO cooling kit, as long as you keep the motor running, it stays plenty cool even when driving like you stole the thing. But if you drive even "normaly" and then shut her off for 45 minutes to an hour (about the time it takes to go into a restaurant for a quick bite) and then fire her back up, evil Heat Soak is apparent. I am convinced through my old school GM V8 upbringing that a cooler running car is a good thing - particularly a force-fed one - and I know Patrick's t-stat helped immensely.

So, here's the question: has anybody running one of Patrick's stats had similar CEL issues? Is there any way to simply "over ride" the ECU's "faulty thermostat" loop so that this fault just won't register any more? Patrick if you're reading, do you have a set up that would be a compromise between the "stock" stat and your 160* set up? Maybe one that runs around 175*? That's still a significant improvement over 190*, but maybe not so cool as to **** off the ECU?

Anyway, I love the cooler stat, I just want to find a way to run it without staring at a CEL all thie time.

Thanks All!!!
Old 05-24-2007, 11:08 AM
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I know this is a silly question, but is it necessary to get the car re-programmed via STAR to make use of the T-stat?

Last edited by ChicagoX; 05-24-2007 at 11:11 AM.
Old 05-24-2007, 11:17 AM
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Ihave the same exact problem with mine,i changed the thermostat spring,but experience the same problem,but i just keep turning the check engine lite off.
Since it has gotten warm i dont seems to have this problem as much.
Old 05-24-2007, 11:56 AM
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I get a similar fault code but not as frequent so it's not a big deal for me to clear it when it happens.
Old 05-24-2007, 12:03 PM
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I think I remember reading somewhere that it is possible to turn off the CIL completely with STAR....
Old 05-24-2007, 01:10 PM
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Clearing CEL

Is it possible to clear the CEL at home?? Or is this a dealership only service?
Old 05-24-2007, 04:05 PM
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haters crazy
I wanted to buy this tstat but dont want it if i'm gonna get a CEL
Old 05-24-2007, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by PDC
First of all, this thread is absolutely NOT intended to be anything negative about Patrick or his high quality customized t-stats. He is a true gentleman and a very knowledgable guy. I have one of his stats and ran it for about 30 days before I got a "Check Engine" light that my SA said indicated "faulty thermostat." He knew about the stat swap, so he proposed simply clearing the fault code and seeing if it came back. Sure enough, it did about 2 dozen starts later. Patrick sent me the stiffer spring assembly that has cured this issue in the past, and I had my tech swap it out and clear the fault code again. About 30 days later, it was back with the same "faulty thermostat" code. I ended up putting the factory assembly back in just becuase I couldn't stand staring at that bright yellow "Check Engine" light and having EVERY passenger quiz me about it.

I absolutely LOVED the stat. I know it definitely kept things cooler under the hood and I think the car felt plenty strong with it. Actually, Cory at Kleemann said that in some ways, the fuel air mixture at lower temps is similar to the fuel air ratio he programs into his Stage I flash, so he said he wouldn't be surprised if having the car think its running cooler than "stock" could imrpove performance to the extent that it affects the fuel air ratio.

I have since done the Kleemann Stage I set up with the full Evo cooling upgrade kit with phenolic spacers. The car runs like a brute, but I would feel better if that temp gauge on the dash were down a couple of bars. With the full EVO cooling kit, as long as you keep the motor running, it stays plenty cool even when driving like you stole the thing. But if you drive even "normaly" and then shut her off for 45 minutes to an hour (about the time it takes to go into a restaurant for a quick bite) and then fire her back up, evil Heat Soak is apparent. I am convinced through my old school GM V8 upbringing that a cooler running car is a good thing - particularly a force-fed one - and I know Patrick's t-stat helped immensely.

So, here's the question: has anybody running one of Patrick's stats had similar CEL issues? Is there any way to simply "over ride" the ECU's "faulty thermostat" loop so that this fault just won't register any more? Patrick if you're reading, do you have a set up that would be a compromise between the "stock" stat and your 160* set up? Maybe one that runs around 175*? That's still a significant improvement over 190*, but maybe not so cool as to **** off the ECU?

Anyway, I love the cooler stat, I just want to find a way to run it without staring at a CEL all thie time.

Thanks All!!!
It can be corrected via ecu programing. The code is coolant thermostat below threshold, which can be fixed by changing the thresh-hold parameter in the ecu. The latest VRUS ecu flash will have that.
Old 05-25-2007, 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by PDC
Is it possible to clear the CEL at home?? Or is this a dealership only service?
you can clear any cel with a data logger. many use auto tap but I prefer auto enginuity. both can be found for about $200.
Old 05-25-2007, 03:38 AM
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Originally Posted by blackbenzz
I wanted to buy this tstat but dont want it if i'm gonna get a CEL
I never get a CEL with the PTE thermostat. Never! You should have nothing to worry about. It's the stck S/C cars who have been experiencing this.

I understand that adjustments to temp threshold can be adjusted with the Star Diag.
Old 05-25-2007, 05:08 AM
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Do you guys feel PTE IAT mod actually helps the car to run better ???
Old 05-25-2007, 10:56 AM
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Now we're talkin'!!!

Originally Posted by rflow306
It can be corrected via ecu programing. The code is coolant thermostat below threshold, which can be fixed by changing the thresh-hold parameter in the ecu. The latest VRUS ecu flash will have that.
Can anybody out there provide any additional info about this adjustment, such has how to navigate through Star to get to the correct menu; what the "stock" threshold setting is; and how far up or down to adjust it????

I had GREAT help form this board on the fan mod and the lowering mod and was able to print the info off for my SA. He is willing to try just about anything for me as long as he has some direction on how to approach it.
Old 05-25-2007, 03:50 PM
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I had PTE stat in and sure enough it worked GREAT, to great. I noticed my temp being a little below 80 C on the dash. I started monitoring it via the climate control method (precise numbers) When it was even up to 74F outside my engine would not get up to 80C when I was on the highway for 40 minutes. It would only get above 80C at 74F outside temp in stop and go traffic. As soon as I started cruising it would drop below 80C and stay between 76 & 78C. So it always ran in start up rich mode. I think the 16-F stat is perfect for hot weather and when it's hot at night.

I had to put the stock stat back in to get met engine to proper operating temp. I agree I would love to get the stat in a 175F style not the 160F. I have K2 so I never had a CEL.
Old 05-25-2007, 04:21 PM
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I just had PTE 160 F and Johnson pump last week . On the dash , the temp is alway at 85c .
Old 05-25-2007, 04:22 PM
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I just had PTE 160 F and Johnson pump on the car last week . On the dash , the temp is alway at 85c .
Old 05-25-2007, 06:34 PM
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I have never had a CEL with his thermostat and it has been in for like 3000 miles.

I have the high end Actron Scanner and it clears the catalytic CEL due to high flows in the SRT8 (Siemens ECU) and it cleared the CEL I experienced after the mishap attempting to reinstall the ECU.
Old 05-25-2007, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by e55 killer
I just had PTE 160 F and Johnson pump on the car last week . On the dash , the temp is alway at 85c .
I think dsc means checking the actual coolant temperature via the climate control menu, not the bar graph beside the speedo.
Old 05-25-2007, 07:28 PM
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Climate control menu ????????
Old 05-25-2007, 10:48 PM
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I was under the assumption that a lower thermostat just lets the coolant flow thru the radiator at a lower temperature and once the engine heats up the coolant level will easily surpass the temp of the thermostat. Isn't it useless unless you program the cooling fan to also turn on at an earlier temp. Usually 10-15 degress above the thermostat.
Old 05-25-2007, 11:37 PM
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Thats how works but a 190 will modulate to make sure it stays 190
Old 05-26-2007, 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by OzE55
I think dsc means checking the actual coolant temperature via the climate control menu, not the bar graph beside the speedo.
I do mean the engine temp via the climate control menu.
Vader, your car has it. Hold the the Air Conditioner botton down until the temp screen disappears (about 15 seconds). You will then have on display numbers on the left and right. Use you left temp adjuster bottom to scroll down to number 06. This is the engine temp read out form the sensor. The value at the right is the engine temp.
Old 05-26-2007, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by PDC
First of all, this thread is absolutely NOT intended to be anything negative about Patrick or his high quality customized t-stats. He is a true gentleman and a very knowledgable guy. I have one of his stats and ran it for about 30 days before I got a "Check Engine" light that my SA said indicated "faulty thermostat." He knew about the stat swap, so he proposed simply clearing the fault code and seeing if it came back. Sure enough, it did about 2 dozen starts later. Patrick sent me the stiffer spring assembly that has cured this issue in the past, and I had my tech swap it out and clear the fault code again. About 30 days later, it was back with the same "faulty thermostat" code. I ended up putting the factory assembly back in just becuase I couldn't stand staring at that bright yellow "Check Engine" light and having EVERY passenger quiz me about it.

I absolutely LOVED the stat. I know it definitely kept things cooler under the hood and I think the car felt plenty strong with it. Actually, Cory at Kleemann said that in some ways, the fuel air mixture at lower temps is similar to the fuel air ratio he programs into his Stage I flash, so he said he wouldn't be surprised if having the car think its running cooler than "stock" could imrpove performance to the extent that it affects the fuel air ratio.

I have since done the Kleemann Stage I set up with the full Evo cooling upgrade kit with phenolic spacers. The car runs like a brute, but I would feel better if that temp gauge on the dash were down a couple of bars. With the full EVO cooling kit, as long as you keep the motor running, it stays plenty cool even when driving like you stole the thing. But if you drive even "normaly" and then shut her off for 45 minutes to an hour (about the time it takes to go into a restaurant for a quick bite) and then fire her back up, evil Heat Soak is apparent. I am convinced through my old school GM V8 upbringing that a cooler running car is a good thing - particularly a force-fed one - and I know Patrick's t-stat helped immensely.

So, here's the question: has anybody running one of Patrick's stats had similar CEL issues? Is there any way to simply "over ride" the ECU's "faulty thermostat" loop so that this fault just won't register any more? Patrick if you're reading, do you have a set up that would be a compromise between the "stock" stat and your 160* set up? Maybe one that runs around 175*? That's still a significant improvement over 190*, but maybe not so cool as to **** off the ECU?

Anyway, I love the cooler stat, I just want to find a way to run it without staring at a CEL all thie time.

Thanks All!!!
Hola,

Where did you get your mods installed?!? I need a place to go when I am ready to take my car to the next level....
Old 05-26-2007, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by dsc
I do mean the engine temp via the climate control menu.
Vader, your car has it. Hold the the Air Conditioner botton down until the temp screen disappears (about 15 seconds). You will then have on display numbers on the left and right. Use you left temp adjuster bottom to scroll down to number 06. This is the engine temp read out form the sensor. The value at the right is the engine temp.
Does anyone know the stock thermostat temp for E63? Also when the fan kicks on. ( I feel like I'm back in school
taking automotive 101 all over again. I've worked extensively on late model Vette's(LB9, L98, LT1,LT4,LS1,LS6 engines) and Vipers and could pretty much answer any question on those cars, but I am swimming in uncharted waters with these foreign autos...any Chilton or Haynes manuals for the AMG's???)
Old 05-26-2007, 07:26 PM
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While changing out the thermostat is a great way to improve performance of a vehicle, the real problem lies with our E55s is that the radiator is at its limit when generating lot more horsepower than what it was designed for from factory. If any aftermarket company like Fluidyne makes an upgraded radiator for my E55, I would get it without a heartbeat. On the otherhand, which lies within the engine compartment design, while it's very spacious, it's a complete heat trap. I would contact couple body shops out in NJ see if they are up to the task of cutting my hood open to let the heat out.
Old 05-26-2007, 08:37 PM
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People have talked about cutting the hood for ventilation but no had a definite opinion if it would help tdue to air flow design. Also, most people like the look of the hood now and no had the guts to do it.


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