PTE T-Stat Updates (Long)
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
PTE T-Stat Updates (Long)
First of all, this thread is absolutely NOT intended to be anything negative about Patrick or his high quality customized t-stats. He is a true gentleman and a very knowledgable guy. I have one of his stats and ran it for about 30 days before I got a "Check Engine" light that my SA said indicated "faulty thermostat." He knew about the stat swap, so he proposed simply clearing the fault code and seeing if it came back. Sure enough, it did about 2 dozen starts later. Patrick sent me the stiffer spring assembly that has cured this issue in the past, and I had my tech swap it out and clear the fault code again. About 30 days later, it was back with the same "faulty thermostat" code. I ended up putting the factory assembly back in just becuase I couldn't stand staring at that bright yellow "Check Engine" light and having EVERY passenger quiz me about it.
I absolutely LOVED the stat. I know it definitely kept things cooler under the hood and I think the car felt plenty strong with it. Actually, Cory at Kleemann said that in some ways, the fuel air mixture at lower temps is similar to the fuel air ratio he programs into his Stage I flash, so he said he wouldn't be surprised if having the car think its running cooler than "stock" could imrpove performance to the extent that it affects the fuel air ratio.
I have since done the Kleemann Stage I set up with the full Evo cooling upgrade kit with phenolic spacers. The car runs like a brute, but I would feel better if that temp gauge on the dash were down a couple of bars. With the full EVO cooling kit, as long as you keep the motor running, it stays plenty cool even when driving like you stole the thing. But if you drive even "normaly" and then shut her off for 45 minutes to an hour (about the time it takes to go into a restaurant for a quick bite) and then fire her back up, evil Heat Soak is apparent. I am convinced through my old school GM V8 upbringing that a cooler running car is a good thing - particularly a force-fed one - and I know Patrick's t-stat helped immensely.
So, here's the question: has anybody running one of Patrick's stats had similar CEL issues? Is there any way to simply "over ride" the ECU's "faulty thermostat" loop so that this fault just won't register any more? Patrick if you're reading, do you have a set up that would be a compromise between the "stock" stat and your 160* set up? Maybe one that runs around 175*? That's still a significant improvement over 190*, but maybe not so cool as to **** off the ECU?
Anyway, I love the cooler stat, I just want to find a way to run it without staring at a CEL all thie time.
Thanks All!!!
I absolutely LOVED the stat. I know it definitely kept things cooler under the hood and I think the car felt plenty strong with it. Actually, Cory at Kleemann said that in some ways, the fuel air mixture at lower temps is similar to the fuel air ratio he programs into his Stage I flash, so he said he wouldn't be surprised if having the car think its running cooler than "stock" could imrpove performance to the extent that it affects the fuel air ratio.
I have since done the Kleemann Stage I set up with the full Evo cooling upgrade kit with phenolic spacers. The car runs like a brute, but I would feel better if that temp gauge on the dash were down a couple of bars. With the full EVO cooling kit, as long as you keep the motor running, it stays plenty cool even when driving like you stole the thing. But if you drive even "normaly" and then shut her off for 45 minutes to an hour (about the time it takes to go into a restaurant for a quick bite) and then fire her back up, evil Heat Soak is apparent. I am convinced through my old school GM V8 upbringing that a cooler running car is a good thing - particularly a force-fed one - and I know Patrick's t-stat helped immensely.
So, here's the question: has anybody running one of Patrick's stats had similar CEL issues? Is there any way to simply "over ride" the ECU's "faulty thermostat" loop so that this fault just won't register any more? Patrick if you're reading, do you have a set up that would be a compromise between the "stock" stat and your 160* set up? Maybe one that runs around 175*? That's still a significant improvement over 190*, but maybe not so cool as to **** off the ECU?
Anyway, I love the cooler stat, I just want to find a way to run it without staring at a CEL all thie time.
Thanks All!!!
#2
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W211 E55
I know this is a silly question, but is it necessary to get the car re-programmed via STAR to make use of the T-stat?
Last edited by ChicagoX; 05-24-2007 at 11:11 AM.
#3
Ihave the same exact problem with mine,i changed the thermostat spring,but experience the same problem,but i just keep turning the check engine lite off.
Since it has gotten warm i dont seems to have this problem as much.
Since it has gotten warm i dont seems to have this problem as much.
#6
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Thread Starter
Clearing CEL
Is it possible to clear the CEL at home?? Or is this a dealership only service?
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
First of all, this thread is absolutely NOT intended to be anything negative about Patrick or his high quality customized t-stats. He is a true gentleman and a very knowledgable guy. I have one of his stats and ran it for about 30 days before I got a "Check Engine" light that my SA said indicated "faulty thermostat." He knew about the stat swap, so he proposed simply clearing the fault code and seeing if it came back. Sure enough, it did about 2 dozen starts later. Patrick sent me the stiffer spring assembly that has cured this issue in the past, and I had my tech swap it out and clear the fault code again. About 30 days later, it was back with the same "faulty thermostat" code. I ended up putting the factory assembly back in just becuase I couldn't stand staring at that bright yellow "Check Engine" light and having EVERY passenger quiz me about it.
I absolutely LOVED the stat. I know it definitely kept things cooler under the hood and I think the car felt plenty strong with it. Actually, Cory at Kleemann said that in some ways, the fuel air mixture at lower temps is similar to the fuel air ratio he programs into his Stage I flash, so he said he wouldn't be surprised if having the car think its running cooler than "stock" could imrpove performance to the extent that it affects the fuel air ratio.
I have since done the Kleemann Stage I set up with the full Evo cooling upgrade kit with phenolic spacers. The car runs like a brute, but I would feel better if that temp gauge on the dash were down a couple of bars. With the full EVO cooling kit, as long as you keep the motor running, it stays plenty cool even when driving like you stole the thing. But if you drive even "normaly" and then shut her off for 45 minutes to an hour (about the time it takes to go into a restaurant for a quick bite) and then fire her back up, evil Heat Soak is apparent. I am convinced through my old school GM V8 upbringing that a cooler running car is a good thing - particularly a force-fed one - and I know Patrick's t-stat helped immensely.
So, here's the question: has anybody running one of Patrick's stats had similar CEL issues? Is there any way to simply "over ride" the ECU's "faulty thermostat" loop so that this fault just won't register any more? Patrick if you're reading, do you have a set up that would be a compromise between the "stock" stat and your 160* set up? Maybe one that runs around 175*? That's still a significant improvement over 190*, but maybe not so cool as to **** off the ECU?
Anyway, I love the cooler stat, I just want to find a way to run it without staring at a CEL all thie time.
Thanks All!!!
I absolutely LOVED the stat. I know it definitely kept things cooler under the hood and I think the car felt plenty strong with it. Actually, Cory at Kleemann said that in some ways, the fuel air mixture at lower temps is similar to the fuel air ratio he programs into his Stage I flash, so he said he wouldn't be surprised if having the car think its running cooler than "stock" could imrpove performance to the extent that it affects the fuel air ratio.
I have since done the Kleemann Stage I set up with the full Evo cooling upgrade kit with phenolic spacers. The car runs like a brute, but I would feel better if that temp gauge on the dash were down a couple of bars. With the full EVO cooling kit, as long as you keep the motor running, it stays plenty cool even when driving like you stole the thing. But if you drive even "normaly" and then shut her off for 45 minutes to an hour (about the time it takes to go into a restaurant for a quick bite) and then fire her back up, evil Heat Soak is apparent. I am convinced through my old school GM V8 upbringing that a cooler running car is a good thing - particularly a force-fed one - and I know Patrick's t-stat helped immensely.
So, here's the question: has anybody running one of Patrick's stats had similar CEL issues? Is there any way to simply "over ride" the ECU's "faulty thermostat" loop so that this fault just won't register any more? Patrick if you're reading, do you have a set up that would be a compromise between the "stock" stat and your 160* set up? Maybe one that runs around 175*? That's still a significant improvement over 190*, but maybe not so cool as to **** off the ECU?
Anyway, I love the cooler stat, I just want to find a way to run it without staring at a CEL all thie time.
Thanks All!!!
#9
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#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
I never get a CEL with the PTE thermostat. Never! You should have nothing to worry about. It's the stck S/C cars who have been experiencing this.
I understand that adjustments to temp threshold can be adjusted with the Star Diag.
I understand that adjustments to temp threshold can be adjusted with the Star Diag.
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Now we're talkin'!!!
I had GREAT help form this board on the fan mod and the lowering mod and was able to print the info off for my SA. He is willing to try just about anything for me as long as he has some direction on how to approach it.
#13
I had PTE stat in and sure enough it worked GREAT, to great. I noticed my temp being a little below 80 C on the dash. I started monitoring it via the climate control method (precise numbers) When it was even up to 74F outside my engine would not get up to 80C when I was on the highway for 40 minutes. It would only get above 80C at 74F outside temp in stop and go traffic. As soon as I started cruising it would drop below 80C and stay between 76 & 78C. So it always ran in start up rich mode. I think the 16-F stat is perfect for hot weather and when it's hot at night.
I had to put the stock stat back in to get met engine to proper operating temp. I agree I would love to get the stat in a 175F style not the 160F. I have K2 so I never had a CEL.
I had to put the stock stat back in to get met engine to proper operating temp. I agree I would love to get the stat in a 175F style not the 160F. I have K2 so I never had a CEL.
#16
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2006 E55
I have never had a CEL with his thermostat and it has been in for like 3000 miles.
I have the high end Actron Scanner and it clears the catalytic CEL due to high flows in the SRT8 (Siemens ECU) and it cleared the CEL I experienced after the mishap attempting to reinstall the ECU.
I have the high end Actron Scanner and it clears the catalytic CEL due to high flows in the SRT8 (Siemens ECU) and it cleared the CEL I experienced after the mishap attempting to reinstall the ECU.
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2003 E55
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old daily driver '07 E63(gone); new dd '14 750xi; 2013 Viper GTS
I was under the assumption that a lower thermostat just lets the coolant flow thru the radiator at a lower temperature and once the engine heats up the coolant level will easily surpass the temp of the thermostat. Isn't it useless unless you program the cooling fan to also turn on at an earlier temp. Usually 10-15 degress above the thermostat.
#21
Vader, your car has it. Hold the the Air Conditioner botton down until the temp screen disappears (about 15 seconds). You will then have on display numbers on the left and right. Use you left temp adjuster bottom to scroll down to number 06. This is the engine temp read out form the sensor. The value at the right is the engine temp.
#22
MBWorld Fanatic!
First of all, this thread is absolutely NOT intended to be anything negative about Patrick or his high quality customized t-stats. He is a true gentleman and a very knowledgable guy. I have one of his stats and ran it for about 30 days before I got a "Check Engine" light that my SA said indicated "faulty thermostat." He knew about the stat swap, so he proposed simply clearing the fault code and seeing if it came back. Sure enough, it did about 2 dozen starts later. Patrick sent me the stiffer spring assembly that has cured this issue in the past, and I had my tech swap it out and clear the fault code again. About 30 days later, it was back with the same "faulty thermostat" code. I ended up putting the factory assembly back in just becuase I couldn't stand staring at that bright yellow "Check Engine" light and having EVERY passenger quiz me about it.
I absolutely LOVED the stat. I know it definitely kept things cooler under the hood and I think the car felt plenty strong with it. Actually, Cory at Kleemann said that in some ways, the fuel air mixture at lower temps is similar to the fuel air ratio he programs into his Stage I flash, so he said he wouldn't be surprised if having the car think its running cooler than "stock" could imrpove performance to the extent that it affects the fuel air ratio.
I have since done the Kleemann Stage I set up with the full Evo cooling upgrade kit with phenolic spacers. The car runs like a brute, but I would feel better if that temp gauge on the dash were down a couple of bars. With the full EVO cooling kit, as long as you keep the motor running, it stays plenty cool even when driving like you stole the thing. But if you drive even "normaly" and then shut her off for 45 minutes to an hour (about the time it takes to go into a restaurant for a quick bite) and then fire her back up, evil Heat Soak is apparent. I am convinced through my old school GM V8 upbringing that a cooler running car is a good thing - particularly a force-fed one - and I know Patrick's t-stat helped immensely.
So, here's the question: has anybody running one of Patrick's stats had similar CEL issues? Is there any way to simply "over ride" the ECU's "faulty thermostat" loop so that this fault just won't register any more? Patrick if you're reading, do you have a set up that would be a compromise between the "stock" stat and your 160* set up? Maybe one that runs around 175*? That's still a significant improvement over 190*, but maybe not so cool as to **** off the ECU?
Anyway, I love the cooler stat, I just want to find a way to run it without staring at a CEL all thie time.
Thanks All!!!
I absolutely LOVED the stat. I know it definitely kept things cooler under the hood and I think the car felt plenty strong with it. Actually, Cory at Kleemann said that in some ways, the fuel air mixture at lower temps is similar to the fuel air ratio he programs into his Stage I flash, so he said he wouldn't be surprised if having the car think its running cooler than "stock" could imrpove performance to the extent that it affects the fuel air ratio.
I have since done the Kleemann Stage I set up with the full Evo cooling upgrade kit with phenolic spacers. The car runs like a brute, but I would feel better if that temp gauge on the dash were down a couple of bars. With the full EVO cooling kit, as long as you keep the motor running, it stays plenty cool even when driving like you stole the thing. But if you drive even "normaly" and then shut her off for 45 minutes to an hour (about the time it takes to go into a restaurant for a quick bite) and then fire her back up, evil Heat Soak is apparent. I am convinced through my old school GM V8 upbringing that a cooler running car is a good thing - particularly a force-fed one - and I know Patrick's t-stat helped immensely.
So, here's the question: has anybody running one of Patrick's stats had similar CEL issues? Is there any way to simply "over ride" the ECU's "faulty thermostat" loop so that this fault just won't register any more? Patrick if you're reading, do you have a set up that would be a compromise between the "stock" stat and your 160* set up? Maybe one that runs around 175*? That's still a significant improvement over 190*, but maybe not so cool as to **** off the ECU?
Anyway, I love the cooler stat, I just want to find a way to run it without staring at a CEL all thie time.
Thanks All!!!
Where did you get your mods installed?!? I need a place to go when I am ready to take my car to the next level....
#23
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old daily driver '07 E63(gone); new dd '14 750xi; 2013 Viper GTS
I do mean the engine temp via the climate control menu.
Vader, your car has it. Hold the the Air Conditioner botton down until the temp screen disappears (about 15 seconds). You will then have on display numbers on the left and right. Use you left temp adjuster bottom to scroll down to number 06. This is the engine temp read out form the sensor. The value at the right is the engine temp.
Vader, your car has it. Hold the the Air Conditioner botton down until the temp screen disappears (about 15 seconds). You will then have on display numbers on the left and right. Use you left temp adjuster bottom to scroll down to number 06. This is the engine temp read out form the sensor. The value at the right is the engine temp.
taking automotive 101 all over again. I've worked extensively on late model Vette's(LB9, L98, LT1,LT4,LS1,LS6 engines) and Vipers and could pretty much answer any question on those cars, but I am swimming in uncharted waters with these foreign autos...any Chilton or Haynes manuals for the AMG's???)
#24
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20+ to list......
While changing out the thermostat is a great way to improve performance of a vehicle, the real problem lies with our E55s is that the radiator is at its limit when generating lot more horsepower than what it was designed for from factory. If any aftermarket company like Fluidyne makes an upgraded radiator for my E55, I would get it without a heartbeat. On the otherhand, which lies within the engine compartment design, while it's very spacious, it's a complete heat trap. I would contact couple body shops out in NJ see if they are up to the task of cutting my hood open to let the heat out.
#25
People have talked about cutting the hood for ventilation but no had a definite opinion if it would help tdue to air flow design. Also, most people like the look of the hood now and no had the guts to do it.