I can only speak for VRP's kit, but I removed the supercharger assembly because it had to be split from the intercooler in order to install the new plenum on the back of the SC. The clamps that hold the hoses to the y-pipe were a real treat to secure too but it's all relative. The wrap kit was very easy compared to the TB.

 

BrianS- where are you in maryland, i am in columbia. thanks

 

Guys...

Soon I will be installing VRP TB and SPACERs and then Wrap kit also...

Can anyone actually guide ME through and give ME STEP BY STEP procedures and how should it be done properly in order to avoid possible problems ???

Please !!!


Brian...Which belt did you use with Wrap kit and what pullies are you runing ??? and give US some feedback on car performance NOW ...

 

Firstly Jrocket thanks for the info mate, made it much clearer for me and others I am sure

As I am an 06 like you, same questions have come to mind any reported gains yet?

VRP one does look ace though and the support that comes with it is awesome from what I have seen

I believe I am kind of in the same boat as russ, been couscous due to where I live.
Need that extra push to make up my mind, as I have yet to ask the dealer if they will install it for me

 

Hmm for TB mod from memory

1. remove 2 air inlet tubes from air box housings and radiator
2. remove airboxes and plastic T piece from TB (comes off as one piece)
3. remove surge tanks - carefully note which bolts go where
4. remove 2 start up relief valves in front of motor either side of SC snout
5. either drain coolant or prepare to bung up the I/C pipes and their hoses. I had cooant already drained from rad mod.
6. disconnect all hoses in front from S/C assembly.
7. remove SC belt and accesory belt (I didnt remove acc belt but its easier if you do)
8. disconnect I/C inlet and outlet pipes from hoses
9. disconnect I/C coolant pipes bracket (near tensioner wheel)
10. remove PCV hoses from TB
11. disconnect harness to all injectors
12. disconnect and remove fuel injector ring (I kept injectors attached to the piping and removed them from motor).
13. remove TB from TB housing (I did it here as it gave me more space to get to wiring harness / plugs).
14. disconnect all plugs and wires - the rear wire to b/fly valve is quite hidden and it does not come off at the housing but along the lead there is a plug. The rest are fairly obvious.
15. loosen and remove S/C - you will definitely need 2 people to lift this out if you dont have a lift.
16. Take off TB from S/C if you have not already done so
17. Loosen I/C from S/C housing - some bolts quite tough to get to and are obscured by the rubber hose connecting the coolant pipes to the I/C housing
18. remove intercooler - some rubber mallet on the side lossens up the gunk used to seal it up - make sure you got all bolts off before you grab the mallet!
19. remove TB adaptor housing
20. Fit new 80mm adaptor housing (with new gasket provided) - beware two of these bolts support the I/C housing - so dont put them back just yet.
21. Fit new 80mm TB to housing, using new gasket and marvel at the pretty bolts (which are also longer). BTW: I added some fat washers here so the T piece could clip onto it better.
22. attach I/C to S/C - reseal if you damaged the rubber seal when you removed the I/C .
23. remove all old gaskets from S/C housing and motor.
24. mock up some guide pins (plastic dowles in bolt holes should work well) in engine housing to accepts new gaskets and phenolics spacer.
25. replace S/C on motor - VERY carefully not to damage the face surfaces or shimmy the gaskets. Place over the guide pins - should save loads of time lining up gaskets help. Again marvel at the new pretty bolts victor supplies
26. remove guide pins and place bolts in their place - also smiling when doing so.
27. fit new T piece to air box rubber assembly - those clips are a real pain but you can get them back on with some force and pliers.

28. From here its basically replace in reverse order .... you can connect all wires etc with S/C in place - with a little effin about.

29. Fire it up ... may take a while for the fuel to feed through the injector ring so be patient.

30. Smile when she starts.

31. Grin allot when you drive her away....

 

Steve,

Thanks Bro, I have printed it out and will share it with my MB guy tomorrow for the VRUS 80 mm TB install.

Lots of work in that write up. I appreciate it and most likely my MB guy does too.

Roland

 

An MB tech should be able to do this in their sleep ... I reckon a good guy could do this (with help) in arnd 4-5 hrs... dont make him rush tho ... !!!

Took me ALLOT longer as this motor was unchartered territory ... !

 

This will be his first.
Not many of us in Maine are into modifying E55 AMG. For all I know, I may be the only one who owns one.

Roland

 

I grew up in Columbia. I'm up in Mt. Airy now.

 

Hey Roland I didn't know you were up in the Northeast!?

I am originally from New York. You probably think this is nuts, but when you are away from Nor'Easters for a long time, you kinda miss um. Nothing like it...

Oh, sorry to hijack. Carry on....

 

if i didnt know any better i would think you were tryin to get a date.

 

I think my belt is 54.5" long because the part number is K0808545HD and it's made by Gates.

What Steve said on the instructions is good. The only thing I never did was drain any coolant. I was able to leave the intercooler in the engine bay so no hoses had to come off.

It's hard quantify the TB upgrade but I feel the car accelerates harder and smoother than stock for sure. I feel it mostly during a rolling starts, especially at highways speeds. I've had now problem with the wrap kit so far and think it contributed to the smoother high-speed acceleration. My crank pulley is stock for now. The other side benefit I noticed from the wrap kit is that it tightened up the main idler pulley quite a bit. After I pressed in the bearing that comes with the kit and bolted everything to the engine, there was no more wobble in the pulley like with the stock bearing.

 

the smooth/harder accel is from the TB. you have a stock pully you shouldnt notice anything from that.
but i am concerend you said your pully was wobbling before the kit? your pully should never wobble

 

If you weren't 8x the size of me, I'd whoop your a$$!!

This is pretty much Rocket for those who have not seem him.

Never felt safer at a racetrack in my life.

 

brians you have personal mail.
thanks

 

OK, cool, then the new TB is performing well. Wobbling might be too strong a word. Mild oscillation is probably more descriptive. There was a little play in the idler pulley prior to the larger bearing. I was close to buying a new one as preventative maint. but got the wrap kit instead.

 

Yo Jim,

Didn't realize you were a New Englander. When you coming back home for some lobsta...... With all of the advice you have given me I should sent you some. Going against your recommendation brotha from earlier today. My MB master says its a go....He is going to carefully evaluate the install and make sure everything is perfect....If its not right, out it goes.........

Roland

 

lol thats funny bro. people used to always say i looked like stone cold.

 

ooh i know what your talkin about!lol. please PM me with the info also! or ill just bug jakpro for it. my guy said no way!

 

!!! Just wondering how u managed to do this? How did you get to the bolts under the S/C to loosen the I/C assembly ... Its much easier all round if the I/C does not have to come off for sure...

 

Steve...thanks a lot !!! Now I just have translate this for my tech

 

Here's the pic after I removed the SC. There's more play in those lines than you'd think. I put and engine support beam across the engine bay to hoist the assembly staight up. Once had it high enough I slide a piece of wood under it for support. Once it was supported I removed the the engine beam, removed the six bolts securing the IC to the SC, popped the flange seal, and pulled it out myself. All I thought was.....don't drop it on the fender....

 

Sorry to bring up an old topic but what do the parts cost if you just get them from mercedes and what are the parts numbers? Also what real gains have been seen?

Thanks
Justin

 

STFF....
there's a thread about it with all the part #s...

 

Is it possible to re-upload the images if available please?

Thanx a lot for this effort.