14Track

I have the motor out of the car so I dont know the scale of work to remove the fan shroud. What I can tell you though is that once you remove the bolt ( it's about 1 3/4" long) the pulley slides off of the supercharger snout. From there you remove the large circlip that holds the bearing in place on the front of the pulley. The bearing gets pressed out from behind. Chill the new bearing and put a bit of 30wt oil on the outside and press it back in. The pulley slides back on. If you've got the space, it's quite easy. BTW, use a rubber strap wrench to hold the pulley while backing off the nut. Keeping the tensioned belt in place helps the same. Good luck. C.

GRAFH

Part # for the pulley strap is 126 589 00 40 00

GRAFH

The mercedes strap is $120. This one from otc will work fine >>

WHIRLINFIST

Can't you just grind slightly and polish the back and install a new bearing or will this throw off the balance?

flyeffect

Would you be interested in selling your old one? If so let me know please. Thank you

Exotic-metal55

BrianS sure could write some nice DIY!

Dawson718

Got my bearing off Ebay for $40 had it on the car for 2 year no problem.E55 04

Jason08

1) are you guys using feeler gauges to determine whether the clearances are within spec?
2) are the correct specs between 0.35-0.45mm?
3) where do you get shims/what are the correct type of shims to use for this job?

I appreciate all of the support.

mekantor

1) yes, I do
2) those are the correct values, just checked the WIS document
3) good question, mine seemed to have so many on there already that it would only be a question of removing rather than adding

Karlson

Bring an old thread back,

Recently my car start having same problem as everyone else.

1130900044 is a clutch, but some members say that part 1130980040(CLUTCH. FLANGE) also needs to be changed, is it true?

Triman2008

I am doing my bearing only this time around. I will check the specs and make sure they are within limits. For all you guys having a hard time holding the clutch with a starp wrench.......I have made my own strap wrench with an old serp belt and the handle from a strap wrench from Harbor Frieght. The new wrench from Harbor frieght broke with one pull so I put an old serp belt through it and an extra set of hands...and it came off with some hammer taps on the end of a 15/16 wrench.

novae500

bump for a buddy!

rchase

At idol does your guys pulleys spin freely from the S/C or are they engaged? Mine is at spec but it is engaged at idol.....

Blkvip

bumping this thread. looking at prices of the clutch assy. now its over $900. the Bearing itself is dirt cheap even on ebay. ill be doing the bearing sometime soon see if it'll make the engagement a tad better.

austingtir

Another guy having fun with the S/C clutch.....

Here's whats happened. I undid the bolt and in the process its sheared the two tiny dowls that go through the bearing retainer washer.... my question is how important do you guys think these things are? If i put the washer back on it still locates just slightly onto the end of the broken dowls. My impression is it will be just fine.... thoughts? EDIT: After looking at this again the dowls appear to be for the two shafts in the hub to mate them together and the washer probably just locates them or something..... Locktite will be my friend here i suspect.

Next issue wear marks on the pulley and clutch friction material on the main hub? Im thinking i should spin this up in the lathe and clean it up as thats quite a significant step and only remove the step then polish with emery? Then i can remove shims on the hub to make up for the removed material....

EDIT: after having another look at this im just going to spin it up with some emery paper to take the lips off where the friction material has been mating with it (little ridges). and leave the barely definable step where the different materials are imbedded in the hub. Personally i think its a waste of money even replacing the pulley at all as i cant see it achieving much of anything. The friction material is in the hub.

The bearing had quite a bit of wobble on it with feeler gauges i got a max of around .62mm this was because of the shimmy in the bearing which i will replace.

Some pics below.... (this car has 140,000miles on it btw).

austingtir

I can hold the hub behind the pulley with the engine running to "stop it". A bit of free spin between the to of them i would expect to be somewhat normal.

It will spin at about 1/20th of the speed of the pulley at idle... thats what i found on my car with the dodgyness as listed above going on.

Will be intresting to see with a new bearing, cleaned up mating surfaces and correct gap what it does.