Modified Thermostats
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2004 E55,1969 300SEL6.3,2011 ML350 BlueTec Diesel,2005 ML400 CDI
Modified Thermostats
Don't mean to throw hot water on the the thermostat mod, however, I don't recommend lower-temp thermostats for several reasons. First it will prolong warm-up times, thus increasing wear on the engine. Second, the engine is actually designed to operate at an optimum temperature of about 220-230 degrees-F in order to ensure that the oil burns off any water which has condensed and accumulated in the crankcase from combustion. Also, lowering coolant-temps will draw more heat away from the combustion chambers, and lower power, this is basic.
The addition of the Thompson marine pump works well to reduce the discharge air temperature (increasing density) from the supercharger, especially if you are buzzing it faster with a larger crankshaft pulley.
If you review recent innovations and research in engines you will find that they have focused on ceramic coatings (F1 will ban them next year) and materials to keep as much heat in the combustion chambers as possible to extract the last bits of power out of the expanding gases. Cooling them down with too low coolant-temps just robs the expanding mixture of is power.
I live in Germany 6 months of the year and ship my really fast E55 over from Florida. The car will reach the second century mark and the coolant temperature always holds steady at 87-88 on the alternate display under all circumstances in all ambient temperatures all over Europe running 100 octane Shell or Aral. The same holds true in steamy South Florida on 93 octane. The coolant is 33% BASF 66% R/O water with WaterWetter additive. Also, the addition of Chevron Techron Concentrate every 2000 miles insures that everything stays nice and clean in the combustion chambers. There are a few good mods for the E55, but lower combustion temps will reduce power and milage.
The addition of the Thompson marine pump works well to reduce the discharge air temperature (increasing density) from the supercharger, especially if you are buzzing it faster with a larger crankshaft pulley.
If you review recent innovations and research in engines you will find that they have focused on ceramic coatings (F1 will ban them next year) and materials to keep as much heat in the combustion chambers as possible to extract the last bits of power out of the expanding gases. Cooling them down with too low coolant-temps just robs the expanding mixture of is power.
I live in Germany 6 months of the year and ship my really fast E55 over from Florida. The car will reach the second century mark and the coolant temperature always holds steady at 87-88 on the alternate display under all circumstances in all ambient temperatures all over Europe running 100 octane Shell or Aral. The same holds true in steamy South Florida on 93 octane. The coolant is 33% BASF 66% R/O water with WaterWetter additive. Also, the addition of Chevron Techron Concentrate every 2000 miles insures that everything stays nice and clean in the combustion chambers. There are a few good mods for the E55, but lower combustion temps will reduce power and milage.
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06 EuroElites E55
#4
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with all due respect, it seems like you're relaying an mb memo or memorized this speech from your local mb employee (if you're not one yourself). i wanted to kick my sa and tech in the head every time they mentioned chevron techron to me. if you do have a connection with mb tell them we didn't appreciate them mixing engine coolant and i/c coolant and if they hadn't done this we wouldn't have had to come up with goofy methods like modifying t-stats to try to lower iat's...
![crazy](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/crazy.gif)
#5
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Don't mean to throw hot water on the the thermostat mod, however, I don't recommend lower-temp thermostats for several reasons. First it will prolong warm-up times, thus increasing wear on the engine. Second, the engine is actually designed to operate at an optimum temperature of about 220-230 degrees-F in order to ensure that the oil burns off any water which has condensed and accumulated in the crankcase from combustion. Also, lowering coolant-temps will draw more heat away from the combustion chambers, and lower power, this is basic.
The addition of the Thompson marine pump works well to reduce the discharge air temperature (increasing density) from the supercharger, especially if you are buzzing it faster with a larger crankshaft pulley.
If you review recent innovations and research in engines you will find that they have focused on ceramic coatings (F1 will ban them next year) and materials to keep as much heat in the combustion chambers as possible to extract the last bits of power out of the expanding gases. Cooling them down with too low coolant-temps just robs the expanding mixture of is power.
I live in Germany 6 months of the year and ship my really fast E55 over from Florida. The car will reach the second century mark and the coolant temperature always holds steady at 87-88 on the alternate display under all circumstances in all ambient temperatures all over Europe running 100 octane Shell or Aral. The same holds true in steamy South Florida on 93 octane. The coolant is 33% BASF 66% R/O water with WaterWetter additive. Also, the addition of Chevron Techron Concentrate every 2000 miles insures that everything stays nice and clean in the combustion chambers. There are a few good mods for the E55, but lower combustion temps will reduce power and milage.
The addition of the Thompson marine pump works well to reduce the discharge air temperature (increasing density) from the supercharger, especially if you are buzzing it faster with a larger crankshaft pulley.
If you review recent innovations and research in engines you will find that they have focused on ceramic coatings (F1 will ban them next year) and materials to keep as much heat in the combustion chambers as possible to extract the last bits of power out of the expanding gases. Cooling them down with too low coolant-temps just robs the expanding mixture of is power.
I live in Germany 6 months of the year and ship my really fast E55 over from Florida. The car will reach the second century mark and the coolant temperature always holds steady at 87-88 on the alternate display under all circumstances in all ambient temperatures all over Europe running 100 octane Shell or Aral. The same holds true in steamy South Florida on 93 octane. The coolant is 33% BASF 66% R/O water with WaterWetter additive. Also, the addition of Chevron Techron Concentrate every 2000 miles insures that everything stays nice and clean in the combustion chambers. There are a few good mods for the E55, but lower combustion temps will reduce power and milage.
![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
The task of the overheating/pinging protection is to prevent engine
damage as a result of excessive thermal stresses and overheating
damage to the catalytic converters.
If the coolant temperature is too high, the ignition timing point is
retarded in line with engine speed and load.
The retardation of the ignition timing point commences at a coolant
temperature of approx. 90 °C and a charge air temperature of approx.
20 °C.
The correction by retarding the ignition timing is map-controlled by the
ME control unit (N3/10)
The correction by retarding the ignition angle is e.g.:
-at 100 °C coolant, 20 °C charge air and full load 2° crank angle
-at 100 °C coolant, 60 °C charge air and full load 8° crank angle
-at 125 °C coolant, 60 °C charge air and full load 11° crank angle
Hope this helps with your T-stat theory.
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E55
Really at 220-230 F the ecu goes into overheat protection mode. ![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
The task of the overheating/pinging protection is to prevent engine
damage as a result of excessive thermal stresses and overheating
damage to the catalytic converters.
If the coolant temperature is too high, the ignition timing point is
retarded in line with engine speed and load.
The retardation of the ignition timing point commences at a coolant
temperature of approx. 90 °C and a charge air temperature of approx.
20 °C.
The correction by retarding the ignition timing is map-controlled by the
ME control unit (N3/10)
The correction by retarding the ignition angle is e.g.:
-at 100 °C coolant, 20 °C charge air and full load 2° crank angle
-at 100 °C coolant, 60 °C charge air and full load 8° crank angle
-at 125 °C coolant, 60 °C charge air and full load 11° crank angle
Hope this helps with your T-stat theory.
![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
The task of the overheating/pinging protection is to prevent engine
damage as a result of excessive thermal stresses and overheating
damage to the catalytic converters.
If the coolant temperature is too high, the ignition timing point is
retarded in line with engine speed and load.
The retardation of the ignition timing point commences at a coolant
temperature of approx. 90 °C and a charge air temperature of approx.
20 °C.
The correction by retarding the ignition timing is map-controlled by the
ME control unit (N3/10)
The correction by retarding the ignition angle is e.g.:
-at 100 °C coolant, 20 °C charge air and full load 2° crank angle
-at 100 °C coolant, 60 °C charge air and full load 8° crank angle
-at 125 °C coolant, 60 °C charge air and full load 11° crank angle
Hope this helps with your T-stat theory.
![rolf](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/rofl.gif)
#7
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2004 E55,1969 300SEL6.3,2011 ML350 BlueTec Diesel,2005 ML400 CDI
Not as fast as an SLR, but it's pretty stout. I just don't trust the tires (even with the pressure monitor) for sustained speeds over 250 KPH. That being said, usually the only time I get passed on the A60 is when my wife is with me.
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#8
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2004 E55,1969 300SEL6.3,2011 ML350 BlueTec Diesel,2005 ML400 CDI
Not my theory
Really at 220-230 F the ecu goes into overheat protection mode. ![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
The task of the overheating/pinging protection is to prevent engine
damage as a result of excessive thermal stresses and overheating
damage to the catalytic converters.
If the coolant temperature is too high, the ignition timing point is
retarded in line with engine speed and load.
The retardation of the ignition timing point commences at a coolant
temperature of approx. 90 °C and a charge air temperature of approx.
20 °C.
The correction by retarding the ignition timing is map-controlled by the
ME control unit (N3/10)
The correction by retarding the ignition angle is e.g.:
-at 100 °C coolant, 20 °C charge air and full load 2° crank angle
-at 100 °C coolant, 60 °C charge air and full load 8° crank angle
-at 125 °C coolant, 60 °C charge air and full load 11° crank angle
Hope this helps with your T-stat theory.
![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
The task of the overheating/pinging protection is to prevent engine
damage as a result of excessive thermal stresses and overheating
damage to the catalytic converters.
If the coolant temperature is too high, the ignition timing point is
retarded in line with engine speed and load.
The retardation of the ignition timing point commences at a coolant
temperature of approx. 90 °C and a charge air temperature of approx.
20 °C.
The correction by retarding the ignition timing is map-controlled by the
ME control unit (N3/10)
The correction by retarding the ignition angle is e.g.:
-at 100 °C coolant, 20 °C charge air and full load 2° crank angle
-at 100 °C coolant, 60 °C charge air and full load 8° crank angle
-at 125 °C coolant, 60 °C charge air and full load 11° crank angle
Hope this helps with your T-stat theory.
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E55
#10
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Everyone is entitled to their own opinion or in your case, theory, but not their own facts. If you were to measure the actual temperature of the cylinder head, lets say by placing a simple thermocouple around a spark plug base you will observe a temperature far in excess of the coolant temperature. A nominal operating temperature of a low performance turbocharged air-cooled aircraft engine or high performance Porsche engine is well in excess of 300 -F and in some cases in excess of 400 -F. We really don't need to discuss the facts relating to the coefficient of heat transfer here nor the laws of thermodynamics, they are well known. Just remember, there are some really knowledgeable folks at MB/AMG and yes there are always alternatives and trade-offs, but don't sell them short - - - just check out a DTM. A final thought . . . technology is the most fleeting of all resources. And remember, these machines were designed by people who like to have just as much fun with them as we do.
I only deal in fact, here is the attached document from the Wis , there is no need to discuss the laws of thermodynamics to fix your statement. The dme does not measure combustion temperature it measures coolant temp which is what the thermostat controls. Maybe you should ask one of the knowledgeable folks at MB/AMG that you know to confirm this. Most if not all the guys who have the modified thermostats run more boost so running slightly lower coolant temp is a plus. Modern cars are built to run high operating temperatures primarily because of emissions compliance.
![](http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/7479/overheatingpingingprotedi4.jpg)
#14
Super Member
#15
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Water boils at 212
First it will prolong warm-up times, thus increasing wear on the engine. Second, the engine is actually designed to operate at an optimum temperature of about 220-230 degrees-F in order to ensure that the oil burns off any water which has condensed and accumulated in the crankcase from combustion. .
Do you know what the oil temperature is after spririted driving? My guess is well over 250 degrees irregardless of thermostat opening temperature.