DIY Pulley Install
#52
MBWorld Fanatic!
I had one, but sold it to Panzerkamp. You can buy it on Ebay for $35.
I'll see if I can find the add for you![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Here's one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...motiveQ5fTools
And another
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...motiveQ5fTools
Note: this tool ONLY works on STOCK dampeners, you will need to lock the flex plate/tranny to install your aftermarket piece. However, on my C32 the stock bolt was torqued to OVER 250 ft/lbs, and with out this tool it would have NEVER came off. Unless I removed the rad and put an air gun on it.
I'll see if I can find the add for you
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Here's one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...motiveQ5fTools
And another
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...motiveQ5fTools
Note: this tool ONLY works on STOCK dampeners, you will need to lock the flex plate/tranny to install your aftermarket piece. However, on my C32 the stock bolt was torqued to OVER 250 ft/lbs, and with out this tool it would have NEVER came off. Unless I removed the rad and put an air gun on it.
Last edited by MRAMG1; 12-08-2009 at 11:42 AM.
#55
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Location: St. Louis, MO
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2005 E55 Sedan (Peuter)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...motiveQ5fTools
This seller has SUPER fast shipment and it's very well packaged. He got it from WA to MO in like two days w/ no shipping upcharge.
Tool is of adequate quality, but could be better. The "tabs" (I don't know what to call them) that go into the holes of the pulley could be longer and more grippy to keep it in place, but it works pretty well. Also the handle is REDICULOUSLY short. That's easily fixed with a 3/4" iron pipe from the Home Depot, though ($6). If you get one that's like 3' long, you can have your wife or other delicate helper keep the pulley in place while you crank the sh17 out of that bolt. It's not even work for a helper to keep the 3' pole from moving.
I sprayed the bolt down w/ PB Blaster and WD40 before getting it to budge loose. I don't know how anyone else feels about doing that, though. I think it probably would've come loose w/o lubricant, but I was nervous about rounding the bolt.
Lastly, get a 27mm 6-pt deep socket. I recommend not using a 12-pt or shallow socket. 12-pt might round bolt off. Shallow will require extension, which is unwieldy.
This seller has SUPER fast shipment and it's very well packaged. He got it from WA to MO in like two days w/ no shipping upcharge.
Tool is of adequate quality, but could be better. The "tabs" (I don't know what to call them) that go into the holes of the pulley could be longer and more grippy to keep it in place, but it works pretty well. Also the handle is REDICULOUSLY short. That's easily fixed with a 3/4" iron pipe from the Home Depot, though ($6). If you get one that's like 3' long, you can have your wife or other delicate helper keep the pulley in place while you crank the sh17 out of that bolt. It's not even work for a helper to keep the 3' pole from moving.
I sprayed the bolt down w/ PB Blaster and WD40 before getting it to budge loose. I don't know how anyone else feels about doing that, though. I think it probably would've come loose w/o lubricant, but I was nervous about rounding the bolt.
Lastly, get a 27mm 6-pt deep socket. I recommend not using a 12-pt or shallow socket. 12-pt might round bolt off. Shallow will require extension, which is unwieldy.
#57
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
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2005 E55 Sedan (Peuter)
Hey, dude, well I went with a Eurocharged (EC) Stage I kit. It's supposed to come with the bolt, but they forgot to include it in the package, so I had to go to the Merc dealer and pay $30 and wait three days for it to come in. Also, there must be something off with the size of the water pump pulley that comes with that kit because it makes my check engine light come on about every 1.5 months for about 2 days. The code is "coolant temp low" or something like that. Basically it's running the water pump faster than the computer is expecting it to be. Other than it being unnerving and embarrasing for people getting in your car, it's not much of a problem. I will say that the EC guys are pretty helpful over the phone, though. I called a few times and had pretty long conversations for the installation. I don't really have a strong rec for any other pulley, but that's my feedback on Eurocharged.
#58
Super Member
A couple of things I would like to add to this DIY. You can hold the crankshaft from turning by accessing the ring gear through the bell housing below and avoid using/buying the pulley tool. I used a large flat blade screwdriver that I slid in through the access hole and engaged the ring gear. I put a wrench on the screwdriver (Snap-on has a hex on the blade near the handle) to keep it from twisting. It was very easy to hold the crank from turning. My neighbor friend loosened the crank bolt from the top with a breaker bar and going back together was just as easy for us.
The other item that I struggled with was the comment that everything could be done from the top. I took that to mean I didn't need to remove the plastic belly pans. (I know, I'm an idiot) It was virtually impossible to remove the hose clamp nuts from the top so after several minutes of struggling from the top, I jacked the car up, removed the plastic pans and easily removed the nuts holding the hose clamps on.
This was a pretty easy DIY job and anyone with a decent set of tools should be able to successfully complete it.
All the best,
Warren
The other item that I struggled with was the comment that everything could be done from the top. I took that to mean I didn't need to remove the plastic belly pans. (I know, I'm an idiot) It was virtually impossible to remove the hose clamp nuts from the top so after several minutes of struggling from the top, I jacked the car up, removed the plastic pans and easily removed the nuts holding the hose clamps on.
This was a pretty easy DIY job and anyone with a decent set of tools should be able to successfully complete it.
All the best,
Warren
#59
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Location: Minnesota
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2005 S55 1982 300dt
I used the e-bay tool after I modified it by welding on 3 additional, longer studs for 6 total.
![](http://i44.tinypic.com/s12kxk.jpg)
Also, if anyone has a 1 1\16 inch six point socket, use it instead of the 27mm. It is actually a snugger, better fit than the 27, which is 1.0630 inch, while 1 1/16 is 1.0625 inch. The angle guage works well installing the 180 asp, as the holder rod can be inserted in one of the holes drilled in the perimeter of the outer ring.
![](http://i39.tinypic.com/2sb6104.jpg)
If someone in the Mpls./St.Paul area want to borrow my no-slip pulley holder, PM me.
![](http://i44.tinypic.com/s12kxk.jpg)
Also, if anyone has a 1 1\16 inch six point socket, use it instead of the 27mm. It is actually a snugger, better fit than the 27, which is 1.0630 inch, while 1 1/16 is 1.0625 inch. The angle guage works well installing the 180 asp, as the holder rod can be inserted in one of the holes drilled in the perimeter of the outer ring.
![](http://i39.tinypic.com/2sb6104.jpg)
If someone in the Mpls./St.Paul area want to borrow my no-slip pulley holder, PM me.
#61
Member
I just changed out my pulley for a 172 and you definitely have to take off the bottom plastic pan to remove 2- 10 mm nuts holding hoses to the radiator fan and 1 small torx screw also holding hoses/brackets to the fan. If you have a CLS like I do, you also have to remove the cross member above the radiator. It is only held on by a bunch of torx screws and is easy to get off. You will definitely need the pulley holder although there is an opening in the bell housing that you can jamb something in to lock the flywheel if you dare.
#62
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Join Date: Oct 2009
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E55 w/ goods, Z32 Project underway
I just changed out my pulley for a 172 and you definitely have to take off the bottom plastic pan to remove 2- 10 mm nuts holding hoses to the radiator fan and 1 small torx screw also holding hoses/brackets to the fan. If you have a CLS like I do, you also have to remove the cross member above the radiator. It is only held on by a bunch of torx screws and is easy to get off. You will definitely need the pulley holder although there is an opening in the bell housing that you can jamb something in to lock the flywheel if you dare.
#64
Excellent thread! Just stumbled upon this thread by chance looking to swap out my OEM Crank PUlley for a new one. I can't seem to find anywhere to get that pulley holder. One on ebay is for NON-SuperCharged Mercs
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I really hate to stick anything on the flywheel to hold it in place when removing the Crank PUlley.
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
![hammer](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/bonk.gif)
#65
Member
Quick search found this thread, I cant seem to see the top pics.
Also I cant seem to find the tool on ebay, anyone have new links ? or know what else it may be called ?
Thanks.
or is it just easier to go through the bell housing as it will be in the air for the plastic pan anyway.
Also I cant seem to find the tool on ebay, anyone have new links ? or know what else it may be called ?
Thanks.
or is it just easier to go through the bell housing as it will be in the air for the plastic pan anyway.
#67
MBWorld Fanatic!
#68