W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

DIY IC Pump E55

Old Oct 31, 2007 | 06:43 AM
  #1  
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E55
DIY IC Pump E55

Hello Gents: As the E55 is getting out of warranty now we will have to start doing things ourselves so lets start the new topic. DIY Everything and lets share.

The first thing I would like to do is replace my IC Pump or maybe just the coolant. (Old subject - New Request)

Does somone have the pictures and the whole process of doing the change??

How do you refil the cooling liquid.

Is there any way of checking the Cooling liquid or repacing it. What is the procedure for replacing the cooling liquid.

Cheers....
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 05:09 PM
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I replaced my pump over the summer with the latest version. You don't need to drain the coolant. Get yourself a set of hose pinch pliers and that will save you time and mess.

Get the car up on ramps, remove the front engine cover, pinch off the coolant lines as close to the pump as possible, remove lines, remove pump, install in reverse order.



Bleed the circuit from the capped nipple using a clear hose so you can see when there are no more bubble in coming out. Just like bleeding brakes. It's that easy.
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 05:18 AM
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Does that mean there is no separate cooling system for the intercooler? Both the Radiator cooling system and IC Cooling system are one?

If yes mabe I sould replace all the liquid for better performance as the ambint temprature in KSA is 104F
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by JDAMG
Does that mean there is no separate cooling system for the intercooler? Both the Radiator cooling system and IC Cooling system are one?

If yes mabe I sould replace all the liquid for better performance as the ambint temprature in KSA is 104F
oh, a Neighboring country men!
Alsalam

let me know what you decide on as my country is hotter
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by BrianS
I replaced my pump over the summer with the latest version. You don't need to drain the coolant. Get yourself a set of hose pinch pliers and that will save you time and mess.

Get the car up on ramps, remove the front engine cover, pinch off the coolant lines as close to the pump as possible, remove lines, remove pump, install in reverse order.



Bleed the circuit from the capped nipple using a clear hose so you can see when there are no more bubble in coming out. Just like bleeding brakes. It's that easy.
Brian could you explain the bleeding process in more detail. Thanks.
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Shaun
Brian could you explain the bleeding process in more detail. Thanks.
Sure...I actually left that out...oops. In order to bleed the line of air the pump has to be running. I disconnected the pump plug and took two very small alligator clips which I ran one from a 12V supply to the + pin on the pump and just grounded the other one. I energized the pump for about a minute or two until no more bubbles came out in the clear hose. After that I pulled off the hose real quick and put on the plug.

Make sense?
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 03:04 PM
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Warranty?

What does I/C Pump stand for? Is this a part the dealer would warranty and replace?
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by m7ich7ael7
What does I/C Pump stand for? Is this a part the dealer would warranty and replace?
yes.. well at least me and alot others got ours replaced at the dealer
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 11:09 PM
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Thinking of tackling this myself- how crucial is it to bleed the system afterwards? Could you turn on the car after the install and let it idle and keep the reservoir open for all the air bubbles to come up to the top? Everything looks straight forward except for the bleeding process....
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Donovan386
Thinking of tackling this myself- how crucial is it to bleed the system afterwards? Could you turn on the car after the install and let it idle and keep the reservoir open for all the air bubbles to come up to the top? Everything looks straight forward except for the bleeding process....
pretty important to bleed the system. just remove the rubber boot on the bleed nipple and bleed the system. you can route the tube back to the reservoir. it take 30sec for the system to bleed out the air. after you turn the car off the pump runs for about 10 seconds, keep that in mind.
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Donovan386
Thinking of tackling this myself- how crucial is it to bleed the system afterwards? Could you turn on the car after the install and let it idle and keep the reservoir open for all the air bubbles to come up to the top? Everything looks straight forward except for the bleeding process....
As there is NO return from the IC cooling circuit to the reservoir, an air trapped in the system is stuck there until you bleed it.

The bleeding process is a piece of cake but I find it takse a few minutes to get ALL the air out. Also, I have typically run the pumps of either a small 12V battery, a booster pack, or the trunk mounted battery (using long wires) to run the pump for bleeding. Going to the fuse box just seemed like additional brain damage to me.
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 11:18 AM
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Got it- being able to hook up any battery to it will make it easy. I'm sure I've got a small motorcycle battery laying around. Thanks for the help guys!
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 11:42 AM
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You don't even need to do that the ic pump turns on when you start the car (except on cold starts)
In other words it is pointless the wire the pump so it stays on always.
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 08:57 PM
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Can you hear the intercooler pump when it is running?

I was just about to replace my ic pump, but once I got the (old) one out, I realized it was the newer, updated pump. I reinstalled it and tried bleeding the system. I used a clear hose attached to the top cooling hose and left the reservoir cap off. A bunch of air appeared to have escaped, but I did not hear the ic pump running after starting the car or shutting the car off. Should I be able hear/feel the pump while it is running?

Thanks,
Steve
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 09:58 PM
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well with all the engine noise it maybe hard to hear the pump running. also can you tell me how did you know the stock IC pump was the updated design.
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 11:05 PM
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If the pump was running, it should continue to run for about 15 seconds after the car si shut off. I don't know if you can hear the stock pump, but the CM30 is definitely audible. I drive the car around for a couple of minutes and got into boost a couple of times, then bled the system. You can also just remove the rubber cap from the bleeder slowly. If coolant starts to come out at a decent rate then the pump is running. Remeber, it isn't a pressurized system(unless the car is hot and the radiator cap is on), so coolant will not spray out under pressure even when the pump is running.
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 04:31 AM
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Hello Shardul,

I think it is the latest revision of the pump as it has the part number 000-500-03-86.

The pump should stay on after a hard run for 10 seconds? Do you need to shut it off immediately to bleed the system?

Thanks,
Steve
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 04:45 AM
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i did it by myself also

it took my an hour, but the problem i faced that i was searching alot for the resovior of the S/C cooler, and then i checked the one on the driver side, saw it was low, filled it up after removing the nipple and air was going out.

i kept it half an hour untill air was removed.

however, i noticed one important thing

after couple of days driving, it gave me coolant water is low, i double checked th I/C if there was a leakage but i cdid'nt found anything. so i refilled the coolant again and after 1 month , it is still full.

so i think there was more air that went to the resovoir after several times driving.

so yes, air can go to their, but will take long time.

regards,
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by III II I I AMG
yes.. well at least me and alot others got ours replaced at the dealer
Mine was just replaced under warranty with the new/improved 07 version.
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 10:46 PM
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I read here on the forums that there is a complicated procedure for the MB techs to follow to bleed the system properly after installing a new IC pump.

Do you think there will be air trapped in the system that we can't remove from just unscrewing that one bleeder cap?

Thoughts?
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by C32AMG
I read here on the forums that there is a complicated procedure for the MB techs to follow to bleed the system properly after installing a new IC pump.

Do you think there will be air trapped in the system that we can't remove from just unscrewing that one bleeder cap?

Thoughts?
send me you email. I will send you bleeding instructions. it is very easy.
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve 90TTZ
Hello Shardul,

I think it is the latest revision of the pump as it has the part number 000-500-03-86.

The pump should stay on after a hard run for 10 seconds? Do you need to shut it off immediately to bleed the system?

Thanks,
Steve
for me the best way to bleed it is connect it to a 12v source. do it first thing in the morning so you dont have hot pressurized coolant all over your engine bay.
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 01:55 AM
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The connector is so tiny. I was hoping there was another way around it instead of jumping it directly.

Steve
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 10:50 AM
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Steve, you can always start the car. I think it only takes a few minutes to bleed the system. That's what I'm going to do.
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 06:06 PM
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Hey guys where is the capped nipple for bleeding the coolant in the CL55?
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