jangy

Dude, that is understood. Now, you change topcs and get on track, but its me that needs a grip?
I never said that the drive train may not get damaged, that is the part I wanted to discuss! Your initial posting was all about damaging the PULLEY. Now, you switch it to crank?
Glad you've done 200 (ok buddy), but obviously they were not MBs. First, I want to see your "powerful" self "twist" an E55 crankshaft. Again, it isn't a chevy. As you already know, the entire motor is engineered to have the peripherals be the weak links. the metal used in the crank isn't even used in the rest of the block or head.
Last thing, what exactly were you doing with 4 guys and a 6ft breaker?

Haha!!

How many mechanics does it take to change a crank pulley bolt? 4; One to hold it, one to look at the tool, one to read the instructions and the last to actually do the work!

211076-113990

I really don't know why I feel like I have to defend myself.......
Apparently you (jangy) missunderstood my first post, and being so all knowing I would have assumed you knew that the factory tool has nothing to do with pulling the pulley from the crankshaft. It holds the pulley so you can loosen or tighten the crank bolt.

As far as removing and installing pulley's, I have no reason to lie about how many 112 - 113 balancers I have removed. In 10 years (112 was introduced in 1998) they add up. There was a recall a few years back and all MB techs replaced their fair share. I've never removed any chevy pulleys.

Since you apparantly know everything, I guess there is no room here for me. Its ok though, I really didn't have the time. This will be my last post... I suggest all MBworld members P.M. Jangy for any, and all advice regarding thier MB. He seems to know it all.

P.S. thanks for taking a jab at my profession. Your the best!

jangy

Thanks for coming in and thinking you are so speacial. Move right along. The people here know exactly what little bit I know. Nobody misunderstood your initial post. you came in all high an mighty and its not appreciated. Move along.

JKK

First off, the Baum tool (112-0040) I recommended in previous post is for removing and installing the crank pulley BOLT. It holds at the pulley so you don't have to wedge a piece of steel into the flex plate teeth. Like a lot of things in life sometimes it takes some muscle to get it done.

Second, the gentleman was asking for torque specs and I don't think it is responsible for a "tuner / mechanic" to suggest a risky method to torque his pulley that might cause damage to the vehicle especially when they include a pulley holder to torque their own set up. If it is not risky than why does VRP include one? Let me ask, does the VRP tool hold the pulley or is it something that wedges into the flex plate teeth?

Third, it is too bad that when a M-B tech chimes (211076-113990) in to help shed some light and immediately is dismissed. I thought one of the reasons for this message board was to help enthusiasts with their cars with quality information.

Vadim @ FD

[QUOTEI don't think it is responsible for a "tuner / mechanic" to suggest a risky method to torque his pulley that might cause damage to the vehicle especially when they include a pulley holder to torque their own set up. If it is not risky than why does VRP include one? Let me ask, does the VRP tool hold the pulley or is it something that wedges into the flex plate teeth?
][/QUOTE]

Sorry, my friend by the method I suggested is not rsiky. There is no damage to the teeth and it works when the installation has not been planned out.

The reason we include the tool, is so it makes it easier to install and one does not have to crawl under the car.

My name is clearly spelled out, so do not be a politician next time.

jangy

First, thanks for the lesson.

Second, VRP provided a pulley tool.

Third, I have enough MBTech friends (offline and here) that don't have the holy attitude. He wasn't dismissed for potential knowledge, he was dismissed for attitude.

Most of us have been here long enough that these discussions have been had time and time again. Each round, we get a little more into the nitty and gritty of a particular aspect. For someone (even an almighty Tech) to just pop in and throw a general statement (already obvious, DUH!) that happens to be OT (his initial post) is rude. Then he comes back at least on topic, but with the same zest. I got no time for that. the holy guys live at a different place.

jangy

Every single pulley install i have seen that had a lift involved used the drivetrain lock, and most of them have been at MB of San Diego and Hoehn MB in Carlsbad. Maybe someone better tell MBUSA that their techs aren't behaving?

How long do we want this post to be personal? It really is up to the "newbs".

JKK

Sorry, my friend by the method I suggested is not rsiky. There is no damage to the teeth and it works when the installation has not been planned out.

The reason we include the tool, is so it makes it easier to install and one does not have to crawl under the car.

My name is clearly spelled out, so do not be a politician next time. [/QUOTE]
Not really sure what you mean by “has not been planned out”. Are you referring to the job or the tools?

I installed a Kleemann pulley topside with the aforementioned Baum tool with the car on the ground.

Sorry to come off as a politician. How about this… I think it is a joke that you, Vadim Federovski, include from what I gather to be a piece of steel from a local hardware store to be wedged into the flex plate teeth of an $80 - $100,000.00+ vehicle to install / torque a crank pulley. It is also my opinion that a “tuner / mechanic” should have some responsibility when contributing information to someone who doesn’t work on cars for a living and is asking for help. The only excuse would be if someone just didn’t know any better.

Vadim @ FD

A joke??? From you??

You can not even spell my name that is front you in every single post that I post. The fact remains that some people will try to do it themselves and I will try to help them as much as I can, unlike you who sit on holy throne and think that there is only one way to do things. Thank you for offer, but I do not need you to decide for me what my "responsibility" should be.

jangy

also, just to clarify, Vadim (VRP) does not give the block. That is a way that many of us use to do it. VRP provided the Pulley tool, I just chose not to use it.

Here is my point I honestly do not believe that a man has the power to twist the crankshaft of my E55 using only a 6 foot pole.

psk145

If anyone could....I would have to put my money on Vadim!!!

JKK

You are welcome.

The gentleman inquired regarding the torque to install a Kleemann pulley not a VRP (I know the torque is the same for all pulleys). I was suggesting what tool Kleemann recommends to remove and install the crank bolt because it takes a lot of torque. I was under the impression that the VRP pulley tool was similar to the Baum. It seems clear now that Vadim’s pulley tool is a piece of steel that relies on the teeth of the flex plate and not one that holds the front pulley. Apples and Oranges.

I was unable to find (his initial post) “already obvious, DUH” what could be considered rude or OT. I thought it was valuable info that was very relevant.

Quote 211076-11390: (Hey all, Kompressed55 is right, we at the dealers have crank locks for almost all MB engines (I.E. 102, 104, 119, 602 etc) but it is not recommended for 112 113 motors due to the lightweight design of the crank. I saw a pic posted not too long ago on here of a 113 crank, and if you look close at the rod journals and you'll see what I mean. I am not saying you will damage your crank, I'm just saying its very possible. There have been cases that crankshafts have gone out of balance for this exact reason. I'll look on monday to see if I can find the DTB. Laters....)

jangy

I was never the one that said locking the drivetrain was the "proper" or improper way to do it. You still don't even have your facts straight and I have stated them a number of times. I'm done with the back and forth on this thread. All of this supposed concern for the OP and did anyone even answer his question?

vrus

Jangy.. Just an FYI...

211076-113990 is Ken.. He is a Master Tech that works in a Utah MB dealership. He is the one that did the VRP heads & cams swap onto JakPro's car.

He is a knowledgeable guy and a true gear head..

I think everyone just got a little heated up and maybe mistook each others posts...

jangy

HAHA!! Thanks VIC! Who is this JKK, though? Yeah, I think we were all talking about different things and coming from different places.

regor60

I think you need to up your meds....

jangy

Up or down? I'm all confused now....

JKK

It was my opinion that the suggestion by Vadim to lock up the flex plate against the transmission housing was not a good one. That is why I originally posted with the proper tool part number that I had personal experience with on the same brand pulley (Kleemann). The “wrong turn” came with Jangy making the thread about his VRP pulley installation and not understanding that the Baum tool is designed to remove and torque the crank bolt.

It is unfortunate that 211076-113990 was berated because quality information is valuable. I hope he will continue to contribute.

jangy

What do I even say to this guy?

SRT6

well this was a great thread lol Just what I was looking for anyway... And by that I don't mean a Fight with a VERY reputable tuner, A Master MB tech, A VRP customer and Almost a member. all joking aside I am putting a Renntech pulley on my SRT6, My question is once I have the bolt at 148/150 lbs, This extra 90 degrees you talk about is that just resetting the wrench and torquing the bolt an extra 1/4 of a turn? I am assuming I need the breaker bar to do the extra 90 degrees or can I just do it with the torque wrench?

jangy

I'm almost scared to answer, but in hopes of getting this thread back on topic; here goes:

You have it right about the 90 degree part (1/4 turn). I have no clue what the PROPER way is, but I wouldn't use the TQ wrench. I would use a breaker bar. I don't recommend that anyone do it themselves!! LOL!!

Those SRTs are sweet. Little SLKs. My buddy has retro fitted lots onto his.

jmf003

SRT6, you'll want to use a torque angle gauge (cost $15 +/-) rather than just estimating 1/4 turn. A reasonably complete auto parts store should have one. If you can't find one locally you'll definitely find them on the Internet.

I installed a replacement crank pulley on the LS6 engine in my GTM and used a regular socket wrench rather than one of my torque wrenches or a breaker bar. I did not need the extra length of a breaker bar to achieve the required torque angle. YMMV.

LOL. Yeah, totally!

Given my prior positive experience with the LS6 I was ready to DIY with the SL55 but this thread totally scared me out of it. I now have an appointment at Motorwerks for Wednesday AM.

SRT6

lol I'm not kidding I have done all the work on my jeeps, engine, suspension interior. But, even touching this vehicle scares the hell out of me as well. I thought it was a simple lock the torque converter with a bolt, take the crank bolt off install the new pulley, tighten the new stretch bolt, put on the other pulleys remove the longer torque bolt and away we go.... I have looked for someone else to do this install but no one wants to touch it here in Minnesota. I get everything from the ohh that has the AMG engine, to we like to stay away from after market products installs at this benz dealership. There are few performance shops here and they worry me more then I worry myself if you can believe that...

Yacht Master

I am quite interested in the DTBs. How is the pulley/damper installed at AMG?

>>>"Lightweight design of the crank"<<< I need to see that in print from Mercedes.

jmf003

When I swapped the pulley on the LS6 it was on an engine stand so locking the torque converter wasn't an option. I used a strap wrench to hold the pulley, both for removing the old bolt and installing the new pulley and bolt. It worked fine. Another poster suggested a chain wrench wrapped around an old belt, which should also work fine.

Good luck!