BiTurboAmg

Can any one tell me how much you have to torque down a kleemann crank pulley on the 55 motor?

BrianS

I don't see why Kleeman would be different than any other which are 200Nm (148ft.lbs) + 90 degrees.

jangy

Absolutely, the spec is for the bolt. Make sure you use a new one. It is much easier to get the leverage on it if the car is lifted.

Vadim @ FD

Correct.

BiTurbo - you will need to hold the engine from rotating. Get a piece of 3/8'' angle bar from any hardware store. Cut off about 3'' piece. Than you be able to wedge it between flex plate teeth and transmission housing.

BiTurboAmg

Do you guys use locktite?

Vadim @ FD

No Loctite. Crank bolt is a stretch bolt. When you do the final 90 deg. step you are stretching the bolt. As a result the bolt become like a spring and stays in place.

To stretch it properly will require a pretty big size breaker bar.

jangy

Just use a new bolt, to make sure it has plenty of stretch in it. The TQ is pretty hard to leverage on.

DO not forget to pull the drivetrain lockdown block!! HEHE!!

SamBoler

What does that equate to in actual torque?

The standard torque wrench reads up to 150 but if someone had a torque wrench that reads higher then...

komp55

Why not just use the crank dampener holder tool?

JKK

I agree with kompressed55. The part number for the proper tool is (Baum 112-0040) I wouldn't wedge anything into the flex plate. Amazing...

jangy

I disagree with you both. Good luck putting that kind of TQ on a bolt, while holding it with a 12" tool at the same time. IF you have a lift, it is simply too easy to lockup the drivetrain and do the work. To use the tool, you had better remove the radiator and get yourself some room. Keep in mind that WIS is not always the most efficient way to do things.

komp55

That's possible, but I'd like to believe that the MB engineers that designed the M113 engine and the related crank dampener removal tool knew what they were doing when they specified how to perform the procedure. The BMW V12 engines actually have a factory tool to lock the flywheel for a crank hub removal. With no such equivalent tool suggested by MB to use on the M113, the idea of using a piece of steel rod to lock the drivetrain seems a little on the risky side. Plus, only the radiator shroud, not the radiator itself needs to be removed to use the tool specified.

Vadim @ FD

In ideal world, proper tools will be in all of all mechanic's tool boxes. Unfortunately, we do not live in one.

I had to use angle bar prior to getting proper tool, because it was not available back in 2003. Most people who end up DIY on crank pulley do not have the tool or do not think the whole operation all the way through. Angle bar works just as well as the tool.

rflow306

I always use a chain wrench with an old piece of belt. The only thing I remove is the plastic under body panel.

rflow306

I always use a chain wrench with an old piece of belt around the pulley. The only thing I remove is the plastic under body panel.

JKK

Once again I agree with kompressed55, only had to remove the shroud and did it from the topside. There is a 1000mm extension to help but, it did take two grunts to get it torqued. Kleemann is the one that gave me the part # for the install not the WIS. I respect Kleemann for suggesting to use the proper tool.

jangy

As long as you were able to TQ it properly, then all is good. VRP even provides a tool with their pulley.

jangy

Great idea.

jangy

Lets be clear on the tool. I fully agree that it is best to use it for REMOVAL of the pulley vs using crow bars. That has nothing to do with using the tool to TQ down the bolt.

My main concern is with people getting it as tight as they can, but it not being properly TQ'd. Alternatively, the steel in the drivetrain only needs to hold the drivetrain in place to TQ a bolt (which is nothing compared to the TQ the car puts up). It also happens to be strong enough not to let the starter turn the motor over.



In the end, I am not arguing a right or wrong way. As long as it is seated properly and TQ'd, etc. then all is good for me.

211076-113990

Hey all, Kompressed55 is right, we at the dealers have crank locks for almost all MB engines (I.E. 102, 104, 119, 602 etc) but it is not reccomended for 112 113 motors due to the lightweight design of the crank. I saw a pic posted not too long ago on here of a 113 crank, and if you look close at the rod journals and you'll see what I mean. I am not saying you will damage your crank, I'm just saying its very possible. There have been cases that crankshafts have gone out of balance for this exact reason. I'll look on monday to see if I can find the DTB. Laters....

JKK

Maybe Vadim should have recomended using / offered to sell the proper tool, since they provide it with their pulley and may have them in stock. I'm sure it is less money since the Baum tool is $200+ by it self.

jangy

Vadim did provide it, so why would I want to buy one?

jangy

It is funny how peope get narrow vision. I AM NOT TALKING ABOUT TAKING THE PULLEY OFF!! Mine walked off by hand! We have been through this a number of times on this thread alone. I am talking about TQing the bolt back down. How am I damaging the pulley (which I don't care about) when i put the steel piece in to lock the drivetrain (which i do care about)?

To me, the argument is should you risk your drivetrain just to get a solid TQ on the pulley? I could personally never use the tool and get that much power on it. It takes ALOT for those that haven't done it.

Vadim @ FD

Our tool only works on VRP pulleys.

211076-113990

Get a grip, the tool is I was referring too holds the crank pulley, AT THE PULLEY, not at the back of the crankshaft. It is possible to twist the crankshaft out of true while loosening the crank bolt, if you hold the crank at the flywheel. Some bolts come loose easily, others take 4 guys and a 6ft breaker. you've done one, I've done at least 200. Nice narrow vision comment.