E55 in service.$550 to replace front brakepads.good deal?
#28
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,063
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
2002 S430, 2004 Cobra, 2004 Tahoe
That's according to a dealers parts department. Big difference when you get the pads ordered yourself. This goes across the board with any MB part. I have bought MB parts for much less, and it's the same part.
Dealers in general are going to bend you over, and not even give you a kiss. I have seen instances of where $100 and up is added markup on a part, that is insane. No way to justify it.
Dealers in general are going to bend you over, and not even give you a kiss. I have seen instances of where $100 and up is added markup on a part, that is insane. No way to justify it.
That being said, I do agree that in some cases a dealership can try to "take advantage" of a situation, that is why you have to be on your toes from time to time. Im not trying to get in to a pissing match with you guys, Im just trying to figure out why there is such a strong feeling like a dealership is always trying to screw you
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#29
MBWorld Fanatic!
![rolf](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/rofl.gif)
Every dealership for every make has ridiculous markup on parts and even labor. Building a "relationship" with a dealership isn't worth the price that must be paid. Those etailers and what-not that sell the same parts for much less, are in the business of making money also. They make profit off of every part sold also and they aren't filing for bankruptcy; so the extra markup at the dealership is strictly for the purpose of padding someones pockets, at the expense of thinning mine. Different strokes for different folks, but I'll choose to do my own work any day of the week
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#30
#31
MBWorld Fanatic!
#32
#34
Just unplug it at the control unit in the engine compartment.
There is a procedure posted, search on it, you should find it.
#35
Few more noob questions- I have 45K on her, would the consensus be that the rotors have yet to be turned? I would be good with turning and some Porterfields? Replacing sensors a DIY? TIA
#36
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: da long island
Posts: 846
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1989 Toyota Tercel Coupé
#39
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 667
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
old daily driver '07 E63(gone); new dd '14 750xi; 2013 Viper GTS
#40
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Daytona, Florida
Posts: 1,517
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
6 Posts
SL600
I joined the Startek EPC online parts catalog a while back, and now whenever I need something I look up the part number and then shop around for the best price online.
Once I have what looks like the best price, I print it out and take it to the parts counter at my dealer. Believe it or not, 8 or 9 times out of 10 they can match the online price and then it's a win-win. They get my business, and I don't pay out the nose.
FWIW, I have much better luck dealing directly with the parts dept., rather than letting a service advisor quote me the price. Every time the SA quotes me anything, it's always 3 or 4 times its real price, and usually well over even the dealer's own retail list price.
About a year ago, I did a complete brake job on my SL600 for less than $600, and that included upgrading to the cross drilled rotors off the Silver Arrow, akebono ceramic pads all the way around, a fluid flush, new braided stainless steel brake lines, and all the labor. This was after the SA had originally quoted me $600+ just to replace the front pads and nothing else.
So anyway, the moral of the story is twofold; 1: That the dealers are negotiable on parts, or at least mine is, and 2: That sometimes you get better quality for cheaper by going with non-mercedes parts, like ceramic brake pads and braided stainless lines. My brake performance is now much improved, and the best part is that they make zero dust.
Once I have what looks like the best price, I print it out and take it to the parts counter at my dealer. Believe it or not, 8 or 9 times out of 10 they can match the online price and then it's a win-win. They get my business, and I don't pay out the nose.
FWIW, I have much better luck dealing directly with the parts dept., rather than letting a service advisor quote me the price. Every time the SA quotes me anything, it's always 3 or 4 times its real price, and usually well over even the dealer's own retail list price.
About a year ago, I did a complete brake job on my SL600 for less than $600, and that included upgrading to the cross drilled rotors off the Silver Arrow, akebono ceramic pads all the way around, a fluid flush, new braided stainless steel brake lines, and all the labor. This was after the SA had originally quoted me $600+ just to replace the front pads and nothing else.
So anyway, the moral of the story is twofold; 1: That the dealers are negotiable on parts, or at least mine is, and 2: That sometimes you get better quality for cheaper by going with non-mercedes parts, like ceramic brake pads and braided stainless lines. My brake performance is now much improved, and the best part is that they make zero dust.