Exotic-metal55

Has anyone found a way to use and impact wrench for this this install? It seems there is about 5.5" inches between radiator and pulley edge (once fan is removed) and maybe enough room to use a pre-set Torque impact socket? Sure eliminates the potential side loads and twisting of a long Torque wrench ..

Getting ready to do an install and always lookign for an easier way.

dasrok8

Does anyone have a picture of the bolt used here? Do you know the thread size?

M12? M14 etc. 10.9 spec? Is it collared (washer on it)? Does MB suggest using lube/anti seize compound etc on install of pulley? Does everyone just reuse original bolt or new one every time pulley is swapped?

Sorry to ask so many questions, but I've been in the "assembly" torque game for 25 years and may be able to help/suggest.

From past similar experiences I would never use an "Impact" type nutrunner on a crank pulley install.

Direct drive, right angle (DC Electric) tooling is best, 2nd would be by steady applied hand torque. (With crank position held in either case)

How is the pulley set to depth/alignment? Does it bottom out on the crank once it's fully seated?

Regards,
George

jangy

It is a single use stretch bolt. MB says to use NOTHING on it. Holding the crank position in place is the whole point, not cranking the bolt down. Yes, the pulley sits flush on the crank when bolted down.

1mean55

Check out vrptuning.com, it has a picture of the pulley kit with the bolt.

dasrok8

Jangy & 1mean55,

Saw the kit on VRP site.

Jangy, when I said lube/anti seize I meant on the inside of the pulley not the bolt, so is that still the case as MB calls it? Just curious.

Thanks,
George

Bipasha493

bringing an old thread back to life, but here goes. Stock pulley has a slight wobble at idle, never been taking off or anything. What type of issue am i looking at here? Btw, i did do a search on stock pulleys wobbling and nothing came up, more of after market pulleys.

pearlpower

I have actually heard of more than a few stockers wobble.

GT-ER

I've had my 178 wobble for months with no issues. Unless the wobble is new...I'd leave it alone.

LazyE55

I've had my Kleeman pulley wobble for the past 130,000 miles with no problems or leaks. Nothing to really worry about as my stock pulley wobbled prior to the Kleeman pulley.

nanayaw6

To chime in my stocker has an ever so slight wobble but dealer said its within tolerance so I 'm living with it till I switch to my larger pulley. OP point is, they happen because of that elastomer. How many miles does your car have? Wondering if these are mileage-related issues.

Chris Buffalo

If the elastomer seems to be the source of all the wobble from side loading, I wonder how a fluidamper style balancer would work in this case, eliminating the elastomer...(if such a thing existed for this engine)

I am a noob here but I gotta say that if I looked in there and saw it wobbling I don't think I would be nearly as confident matting the gas pedal anymore.

I don't think it should wobble at all; stock or aftermarket. Heck, even a small block Chevy can keep their balancer and pulley from wobbling.

Just my 2 cents, as I do my homework and search for the best, NO WOBBLE 172.

GT-ER

Nope, as a large portion of aftermarket pulleys do not have this and yet they wobble anyways.

Chris Buffalo

Okay, I follow, I think. So then where is the wobble coming from? Is the ID on the snout that goes over the crank a few thousands too large? Or does the pulley snout "bell shape" after time from all of the side load placed on it from both belts, meaning the point closest to the engine gets a tiny bit larger than further inside the pulley snout over time?

I'm curious now myself as to the root cause, as clearly this is a problem. If the pulley snout is machined to the exact inside diameter and the pulley runs true, is the snout material "giving" some over time, meaning the metal isn't hard enough? Does the crank not protrude far enough into the pulley?

This of course assumes that it was installed in the proper fashion; meaning it wasn't pounded into place with a 'harley wrench"..lol

I plan to buy a good, 'wobble free' pulley soon and put it on carefully and meticulously, and would reasonably expect no wobble from a pulley costing $1k of more.

I just want to do this right, and this problem seems to be alarmingly common. This problem has a root cause, and therefore a solution. I am sure we will figure it out!

GT-ER

I can't say....but you are right, the problem is ridiculously common.

All I care for is for it to work, and mine does...so wobble or not I'm happy.

cmpcpro

Did anyone ever figure this out??

BoostedAero

Red locktite + 147ft/lbs on a stock NEW bolt (some say wait 30 minutes some day dont then go) + 90* more ( I chose to overly tighten a bit bc yea, I fear it coming off after all the reading I have done)

cmpcpro

Thanks but what I mean is did they ever figure out if using the trans lock or the crank pulley tool was the one causing the issue?

SICAMG

I really think all the problems are related to the fact that the pulley hub is VERY short. Most other engines I have worked on have a much longer "Bite" on the crank do to a longer hub. Our's are really short.

whipplem104

You are right about it being short but it is really a crank harmonics issue. These modified pulleys need to be new parts with better tuned harmonics for the increase in power. Using a stud and nuts also will help but anything you are doing to keep the pulley from spinning is other than addressing the harmonics issue is masking a bigger problem. Also I think the clutch engagement has a lot to do with it as well.
I just went through all of this on a custom build for a client and had to dig in deep to figure out why it was spinning the crank pulley.

SICAMG

I agree with you with the harmonics. But I also had these problems with my small block Ford and other engines. The hub would spin or snap clean off with a Paxton Novi supercharger making 30psi of boost. They would produce a massive amount of force. The fix was an ATI balancer that was double wall thickness and double 1/4" key way's. The bolt was ARP torqued to 150 psi. Years of trouble free service after that. Tha'ts what we need LOL !!!!

cmpcpro

If stretching the bolt an extra 90deg with a breaker bar could be twisting or tweaking the crank shaft then what are the alternatives? I need to have mine replaced tomorrow and want it done right.. I don't care about the money as long as I have peace of mind.. does anyone know how the dealer installs them? Maybe I should have them do it?

BoostedAero

The crank pulley lock tool keeps the crank and pulley stationary so the bolt can be torqued down. Essentially when the bolt is "stretched" with the additional 90* turn it aids in giving the threads a bit more bite together. I have a hard time believing a crank as hard as the M113k's would twist/tweak under a mfg recommended torque spec.

Get it installed by a good indy/dealer. I was quoted ~$300 for indy install. I went through this a while ago and just did it myself.

It is one bolt but a very important one so do it right, and my opinion over do it with red locktite

cmpcpro

Thanks!! Their theory behind that was at the factory it was probably installed with a tuned impact vs by hand with a long breaker bar but I would hope they would have enough sense to know that isn't how it would be done by others.. I wouldn't suspect even the dealers to have that..

David_Vash

Don't mean to bump an old thread, but I've been looking for some answers and I've been getting polarized results.

Background: I noticed my harmonic balancer pulley was wobbling a good bit after I bought my C55 AMG a few months ago. The car drove great and It was something I was planning on getting done if I had gotten the car. Anyway, I had the pulley replaced at a reputable Mercedes dealership. They replaced the pulley with a brand new one and the technician wanted to tell me beforehand that the pulley will still wobble and that it is completely normal for the engine (M113). I looked at the old pulley and it looked like it was still in good condition (rubber was present and none of it was disintegrating).

If the old pulley AND the new pulley are wobbling, is this something to worry about? I want to trust my technician since he has been at the dealership for over 20 years but in the case he might be wrong I don't want to pay severe consequences. The old pulley and new pulley wobble the same amount, so Im assuming this is no longer a pulley issue.

Again, if I had not noticed this visually I would have never knew about this problem. I felt no vibration and idle was relatively smooth.

SICAMG

Take a video and will take a look.
Maybe E55Greasemonk can chime in when he see's it. He will know better than most but I would say....no there should be no wobble.