*** ASP Pulley ***
"Each time the air/fuel mixture inside a cylinder is ignited, the combustion that occurs creates a torque spike that is applied to the crankshaft through the piston and rod. This torque spike is so severe that it not only turns the crankshaft, it actually twists the crankshaft ahead of its normal rotation and then the crankshaft rebounds. This twisting action is known as torsional vibration. When these torque spikes and forces get into phase with the natural frequency, critical torsional harmonic vibrations occur and can be seriously destructive to the bearings and the crankshaft. Dampers are designed to control those destructive vibrations.
Critical harmonic vibrations occur numerous times in a engine’s operating range. Stock rubber and elastomer-type dampers are frequency sensitive “tuned absorbers”, and work at only one critical frequency. In the case of a stock rubber damper, it is tuned for a factory engine’s critical harmonic vibrations. If you change the mass of pistons, rods, or the crankshaft, you change the natural frequency of the crankshaft assembly; therefore, the stock damper is no longer tuned to the new frequency of vibration, and you may be headed for early failure of expensive engine components."
Since the vast majority of us are not modifying the mass of our engines' internals (i.e., pistons, rods, crank), I would assume that the factory damper, and larger pullies based on the factory damper are correctly frequency tuned for our engines (any experts to refute this?). The supercharger happens to be a belt driven accessory which function has nothing to do with the intended function of the crank damper.
Perhaps some tuners not relying on the factory crank damper somehow measured the frequency of the SC belt tensioner damper (didn't know it had one) and determined it could function as the damper for the crank as well. Personally, I would rather have a tuned crank damper (e.g. factory) responsible for controlling harmonic vibration of my engine block, and replace it as needed when the rubber shows signs of deterioration. That's my take on it; maybe others with more expertise can chime in.
I get what you were saying and am learning, but I don't get why my statement was so simply wrong? I can see that the crankshaft is going to have that vibration, but so what? I ask that because we were talking about the PURPOSE of the dampner. Are you saying that the dampner steadies the crankshaft? If so, then I was off because i doubt that is the case. I nstead, I think the dampner is to help absorb the vibration coming from the crankshaft and send steadier power to turn the SC. Is that not the same as dampening "transitional forces between the crankshaft and the SC"?
Maybe they have a better solution, but if rubber is so bad, why do all the OEMs use it? Probably for cost savings, but obviously rubber works just fine - only rarely do you ever read about problems with crank dampers.
. They don't even look like clean tig welds either. To get a perfectly balanced pulley you have to start from scratch and CNC machine one. VRP design is definitely much better than ASP but then again there are many other good tuners out there with high quality pulleys. Some cost more, others less, but overall its best to avoid the "stock hybrid" pulleys, they are just a really bad design. 2 cents
CNCing a piece is a clean way to maintain integrity in the long term and maintain consistency.
-m
Since I don't have a pulley on my car (yet), I have no dog in this fight. Just trying to keep things on a relatively factual basis.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I still like welding verses pins or screws but that is my 2cents..
Since I don't have a pulley on my car (yet), I have no dog in this fight. Just trying to keep things on a relatively factual basis.

I'm still on the fence about whether or not in this application heavier or lighter is better - when you put everything on the table. I understand the engineering fundamentals that lie underneath this discussion but I'm just not sure if it's a clean cut as some would suggest. There are downsides to more weight and there can be upsides to less weight.
-m
Either an item is in balance or not. Period. End of statement. Assume two pulleys, one a bolt together design, and the other, a substantially less expensive one that has some welds on it, have each been balanced as part of their respective manufacturing processes. The simple, unalterable fact is that they both are "balanced."
Your concern can actually be expressed as a pully's tendency to lose its state of balance as a result of being subjected to use, and which design style is more susceptible to losing its state of balance over a period of time. That tendency, though it may exist (no one has really documented or actually measured this in any controlled scientific manner that I've read about) has zero to do whether a pulley is in balance or not. It is either is or it isn't.
I would agree that I would be more willing to consider for purchase a pulley that had a documented characteristic of retaining its state of balance over a longer period of time versus one that was more likely not to, but there doesn't seem to be any reliable data available to assist us in analyzing how rapidly a particular pulley's state of balance will degrade. I don't think attempting to extrapolate rate of balance loss from manufacturing method used is much more than an assumption without some actual, verifiable data to support the assumption, but then I'm not an engineer either, so what do I know?




Lets face it these pulleys are not going to be massively out of balance they are circular and other than the welds no additional material is oddly placed to substantially alter their state of "balance". So if they do go out of balance it is no going to be by much, and I am still trying to understand how this could occur without the unit actually failing in some way. I can't see normal "wear & tear" altering the balance materially, if at all. Also if u consider the load the pulley is under any small variation in baalance is, by far, overwhelmed by the belt load/tension.
The notches in the outer ring, to me, are foremost to tune the harmonics... and not the balance. Harmonics are there regardless of belt load and tension.
But hey I could be wrong.
Either an item is in balance or not. Period. End of statement. Assume two pulleys, one a bolt together design, and the other, a substantially less expensive one that has some welds on it, have each been balanced as part of their respective manufacturing processes. The simple, unalterable fact is that they both are "balanced."
Your concern can actually be expressed as a pully's tendency to lose its state of balance as a result of being subjected to use, and which design style is more susceptible to losing its state of balance over a period of time. That tendency, though it may exist (no one has really documented or actually measured this in any controlled scientific manner that I've read about) has zero to do whether a pulley is in balance or not. It is either is or it isn't.
I would agree that I would be more willing to consider for purchase a pulley that had a documented characteristic of retaining its state of balance over a longer period of time versus one that was more likely not to, but there doesn't seem to be any reliable data available to assist us in analyzing how rapidly a particular pulley's state of balance will degrade. I don't think attempting to extrapolate rate of balance loss from manufacturing method used is much more than an assumption without some actual, verifiable data to support the assumption, but then I'm not an engineer either, so what do I know?

I point to Jim's story of having a backwards ASP pulley as an example of a variable that could affect a pulley's balance - now it's not an example of how a pulley became unbalanced after it was originally balanced, rather it's an example of the variables introduced to the final product equation.
The picture Vadim posted clearly shows a cracked weld, and again, welds are another variable that makes a pulley succeptible to loss of balance. Exotic-metal55 said screws are also variables but honestly, screw/bolts/etc hold just about our entire car together so I'm not sure if it's realistic to classify screws/bolts/etc on the same level as crappy welds...
My point was, while you are right about balanced being balanced, you should not just look a product because the company making it can claim with absolute certainty that the product will be balanced when you receive it - other factors need to be considered as well, IMO.
-m
I don't know if he is referring to the actual crank, or the bearings. I would suspect he is referring to the latter, in which case what he wrote would be correct.
-m
Maybe soba, maybe noba... but either way we are getting into some massive symantics. Those that run the ASP have every right to do so but claiming that its design is superior is just funny.
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EVERY car built has a Harmonic damper installed from the factory, wether it has a Supercharger, Turbo, or NA. Its SOLE purpose is to control harmonics so that you DO NOT rip up the bottom end of the engine. It has ABSOLUTELY Nothing to do with saving the Supercharger my friend. When you go have a custom engine built, ALL engine tuners will ask you for your balancer. No they do not tune it for harmonics, they simply re-balance it for your new rods, piston, or what ever elese you have added. Even race cars, that build ALL internaly balanced engines will still run a Harmonic damper on them to help save the bearings/crank. Yes, they really help that much. Talk to ANY engine builder and they will help shed some light on why they are needed so badly on ANY engine.
See yeah

PS: Even with New rods, pistons and or a crank, they ONLY re-balance the Harmonic damper. They DO NOT change its frequency/damper range. this is the ONLY reason why I could ever see using a Fluid damper IF you changed ALL of the internal engine components. There just ISN'T that much of a change in the resonant harmonics to warrent changing the frequency of the damper unless you have changed EVERYTHING.
Last edited by MRAMG1; Aug 28, 2008 at 07:15 AM.




The harmonic damper has nothing to do with the fact its driving a S/C.
The motor needs it regardless of the S/C drive element. If I am not mistaken the harmonic tuning is islolated from the S/C drive ring by the rubber insulation, so that the harmonics are not affected.
Production cars
Tuned mass dampers are widely used in production cars, typically on the crankshaft pulley to control torsional vibration and bending modes of the crankshaft, on the driveline for gearwhine, and other noises. They are also used on the exhaust, on the body and on the suspension, as in the 2CV example above. Almost all cars will have one mass damper, some may have 10 or more.
This is why the woodruf key on our pulleys is so important. It locates the pullley exactly in harmonic tune with the crank and internals.
The keyway as we have established before is not to lock it in position. That stretch bolt a a bunch of torque is there for that.
Last edited by stevebez; Aug 28, 2008 at 10:49 AM.
EVERY car built has a Harmonic damper installed from the factory, wether it has a Supercharger, Turbo, or NA. Its SOLE purpose is to control harmonics so that you DO NOT rip up the bottom end of the engine. It has ABSOLUTELY Nothing to do with saving the Supercharger my friend. When you go have a custom engine built, ALL engine tuners will ask you for your balancer. No they do not tune it for harmonics, they simply re-balance it for your new rods, piston, or what ever elese you have added. Even race cars, that build ALL internaly balanced engines will still run a Harmonic damper on them to help save the bearings/crank. Yes, they really help that much. Talk to ANY engine builder and they will help shed some light on why they are needed so badly on ANY engine.
See yeah

PS: Even with New rods, pistons and or a crank, they ONLY re-balance the Harmonic damper. They DO NOT change its frequency/damper range. this is the ONLY reason why I could ever see using a Fluid damper IF you changed ALL of the internal engine components. There just ISN'T that much of a change in the resonant harmonics to warrent changing the frequency of the damper unless you have changed EVERYTHING.
Get off this Supercharger talk. It just doesn't matter what engine your talking about, ALL cars have a damper, with an elastomer band, GM, BMW, FORD, CHYSLER, MB, etc, etc. Regardless of the induction system, NA, Turbo, SC, etc, etc. The damper is to control crank Harmonics, as was described in VERY good detail above. THATS IT, nothing more, nothing less.
See yeah
You are 100% correct about stressing that elastomer ring
This is why you should ALWAYS use the proper puller when removing one. IF you pry on the outer ring, you will destroy the damper. I know, I have a few boat anchors from my Ford days, when I pulled one incorrectly. Could ASP over stress it? You bet, I too would be curious as to what they use to seperate it, WITHOUT doing any damage.
See yeah




The harmonics have nothing to do with the rubber. The rubber is there to prevent the harmonic tune from being affected. The harmonic balance is found on the pulley at the back of the pulley closest to the motor.
There is a good reason this pulley has the mass it has.







