This is a GREAT thread! I just ordered all the parts to do all 4 corners pad/rotor/sensor replacement on the newly aquired E55 wagon.

One question: in an earlier post someone referenced unplugging the SBC sensor...... What is this and why should it by unplugged?

 

The brakes on our cars are "brake by wire", meaning they are electronically controlled. The SBC unit is the electro-mechanical unit that controls the braking function of the calipers. The SBC braking system is comprised of three parts:

1) the brake operating unit (pedal and master cylinder unit)
2) the wheel speed sensors; and
3) the traction system hydraulic unit (which is what most of us refer to as the "SBC control unit."

The reason that you MUST unplug the SBC control unit is that it "wakes up" and applies hydraulic pressure to the caliper pistons upon the occurence of any of the following events:

1) opening a door on the car;
2) operating the central locking system;
3) depressing the brake pedal;
4) turning the key to position 1; and
5) operating the parking brake.

If, for example, you were working on the brakes and the system became activated while you had your hand near the brake caliper pistons, the piston could pop open with significant force and cause injury to you, as well as possibly damaging the caliper.

When you deactivate the SBC control unit using either Star, a speciality deactiviation tool (e.g., ATE or the Sykes Pickavant tool), or unplugging it, the pressure reservior is depressurized, and the pump is deactivated. Acually, I am not 100% certain if just unplugging the unit depressurizes it, but it certainly deactivates the pump. I have used the "unplug" method without incident when I did my BBK install, so I'm pretty sure it works.

A couple of tips to keep in mind when doing your SBC brakes:

1) When you're ready to press the pistons back into the calipers in order to remove the old brake pads, open the bleeder screw(s) at the caliper you're working on so as not to force pressure back into brake operating unit or SBC control unit (have your bleeder bottle connected before opening the bleeder screw).

2) Be sure to bleed the brakes after replacing whatever parts you're replacing. The Motive pressure bleeder is awesome for DIY bleeding work.

3) Before driving the car, be sure to "activate" the SBC system several times to reset the caliper pistons against the discs.

Before activating, don't forget to plug the SBC control unit back in. Then use one of the tools, or open the door and leave it open for a few seconds, then close it, let it be for a few moments and then repeat this process several times. This will cause the pressure chamber to re-pressurize, which in turn will move the new brake pads into position against the discs.

Sorry for the long explanation, but the SBC brakes are one of the most complex systems on the car and the most important safety system, so you want to make sure nothing gets screwed up that will compromise your safety.

 

^^^ Fantastic write up! Thank you.

I do have a Motive pressure bleeder I use on my Porsches. At the risk of sounding like a complete noob (I am when it comes to DIY on MBZs), where is the SBC control unit to unplug it? Should the battery also be disconnected? Pictures are great.

Where is the best place to pick up workshop manuals?

 

This is indeed a great thread: not just packed with good info but very tolerant of noobs and different car models. I just bought a 2006 CLK350 at an auction. The "Brake Pad Wear" warning is on, so I'm shopping for pads and rotors before I even pick it up tomorrow. Based on what I've read here, I want to go with Akebonos, which I've seen for $76.69 shipped from Tirerack. Trouble is, my shopping has turned up different part numbers for front Akebono's. TireRack, which I tend to trust, says the part number for a 2006 CLK350 is EUR872. A couple of other sites show part number W0133-1814168 (though it seems to be out of stock everywhere). Anyone know for sure which is correct (they look very different in pics)?
Then, for rotors, I went to R1Concepts, which was cited earlier in this thread. They have a line called E-Line with a cross-drilled and slotted rotor for $120 a pair (the OEQ-Stock style is only $80/pair). I'll confess that the main reason I'd choose the drilled/slotted style is looks, but I'd also tend to think that they might be less likely to warp. A friend of mine thinks they'll tear the pads apart, but aren't pads more known tearing up rotors (metallics anyway)? Anyway, what do you brake experts think of my choices? I'm no speed demon, but until I change my sig, you can see the result of my 2002 C230's OEM brakes (vs. those of a 2006 BMW X5) below.....

 

R1 are good brakes, have them on my Supra, i went with Posi Ceramic pads. I ONLY use ceramic pads on my cars due to the fact that they product low brake dust, easy on rotors, and last a long time with OEM performance.

 

Hi, any suggestions on what rotors I should get? I decided to go with Porterfields for my brakes.

 

Frozon Rotors...crossed drilled and slotted. The best

www.formymercedes.com

 

I went with the R1 rotors, drilled and slotted, and, at the suggestion of Klinh, upgraded to Premium Series....amazing how rotors that start at $80 a pair ended up $188.10 shipped! Got the Akebono pads from TireRack (hope they come with the shims), but neither R1 nor TireRack has the brake wear sensors. Anyone know if they're carried at any of the bricks and mortar parts chains, or am I gonna have to go to the dealer? Luke said the Akebono details say "reuse sensor", but it was already on when I got the car last Friday, and who knows how long before that....doubt it's reusable now. Oh, and anything else I need? I read somewhere about a lube for the back of the pad to reduce squeaking? and can anyone articulate the "break-in process" for the ceramics, or is as simple as "take it easy at first...."?

 

sorry to bring back a old thread but I know people will beef if i started another thread about brakes and they will just tell me to use the search button and it s my friend. Any ways I have a 04 and Parts.com doesnt recognize that there is a 2003 E55 so I searched under 2004 and these came up will they work ? thanks
http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/inde...layCatalogid=0

 

I bought my rotors from www.parts.com for the 55 with no issues. They are the OEM rotors.

 

ok , thanks look like thats what I'll be going with they are the cheapest around.

 

Ooh...this reminds me, I need brake sensors. I went to the dealer and they were $30/each. They must be on crack!!

 

My dealer was $30 too; I should've added sensors to my R1 rotors order, which was big enough for free shipping. (they're $7.40 each at R1, and Steven B. there ended up contacting me to offer 10% off my order, cuz I'm a member of "another" MB forum). They're $4.01 at RM European, part #211-540-17-17.

RenntechE55, I'm no expert, but I'll tell you that I'm LOADS happier with ceramic pads that the OEM Pagids....they seem to eat rotors, no matter which rotors they are.

 

I already have some new in box EBC reds so I wont be going stock pads.

 

A GREAT choice my friend

Just bed them according to the directions.

Again, I have NEVER had them squeal, fade, eat rotors, and they are low dust. ALL of these are FACTS on several different cars that I have personally installed and bedded. Oops, forgot I let my brother bed his after I told him how.

Enjoy

Awaiting a reply from a certain someone in 3,2,1

 

I'm having the same problem at parts.com. Mine's a 2006 and nowhere does it list the rotors specific to my car. Here's a LINK.

I want to buy all 4 rotors (oem or comparable). If anyone has another source let me know.

Also I checked into the Zimmerman rotors, apparantly they only make the fronts?

 

To anyone who is in need of rotors and pads. I bought a set of Zimmerman front and rear (pretty sure the rears are Zimmerman too...) and pads for a 2005 E55 and determined that the car didn't need rotors and pads. I have since sold the car. They obviously have never been used and they sit in my garage in the original packaging. I would be happy to sell them to someone here who needs/wants them. I do not have any of the particulars (part #'s or what I paid for them) as I do not have access to them right now. I will be able to get everything for an interested party in the morning. Please PM or email (chuck 'at' 928registry 'dot' org) if you're interested. I'll sell them for between 1/2 - 2/3 of what I paid for them plus shipping.

 

pm sent. Pics and part numbers would be helpful.

 

Thanks guys for the PMs. Got in late tonight, will get pics and part # tomorrow.

 

Sorry for the delay guys. Here are the pics and info regarding the rotors/pads/sensors.

Price is $475 + shipping (cost was $713.89 + shipping). Will not seperate. Folks that sent PMs have first shot in order I recieved them. I will send return PM in order.

Pads:





Rear rotors:









Front:











Sensors:

 

Oh yeah, here are the part numbers:

 

Chuck lemme confirm part #'s and I'll take them.

 

Just to confirm you need 2 sensors (L&R) for the front brakes?

TIA

 

Bump for a great thread (CWW in particular). V helpful in ordering everything needed for full rotor/pad change.

 

Chuck,

Just saw this thread, is this deal still available?

Very interested! Does it come with new sensors all around and paste to?

Thanks!