jangy

Ok, so I have been playing with the cooling on the car and am still pretty dissapointed with the results.

I know many OGs have said this, but it may be true that the best HE setup up front won't do much good if we can't transfer the heat INTO the cooling system faster.

No matter what I am doing now, the IATs still spike, although they recover MUCH faster. Also, the peak has lowered, but only by about 15 - 20 degrees. What I really want is a system that remains consistent.
NOT FOR DRAG RACING, but for all around consistency.

Now, to the question:
Thoughts on adding two inline HEs and placing them on the top of the motor? I am already removing the airbox to make room, but what does everyone think about the hardware? Would it help more than adding a HUGE tank in the trunk?

rberga1

Isn't there a way to trick the ECU/IAT sensor to think its running at a certain temperature. If I remember correctly, the LS1 vettes and f-bodies back in the day would add a resistor to the sensor to fix the temp at like 50deg or something.

I know its really dangerous if the temps actually do get too hot like if u had a bad ic pump, but if your looking for that one good run down the strip and you already have upgraded your cooling, it might be worth it .

TopGun32

what system did you buy?

Spike will always be there.. as long as you don't go into 140F IAT's too long.

chiromikey

are you talking about adding h/e's or actual i/c cores? the latter is the only efficient way to help achieve your goals without injecting a chemical intercooler (water, meth, or n2o).

Exotic-metal55

I am sure he means I/C cores. I was going to start a new thread about controlling peak IAT`s but this thread will have to do. Can the S600 or S65 I/C cores be adapted as an auxillary I/C system?

Has anyone been able to keep Peak IAT`s under 140 for 12 seconds or more in 70 plus weather?

NitrogenBalance

To counter the spike which is boost, which will always happen, it seems to me that meth/H20 injection with a good controller would be the most simple and effecient setup. I know many avoid the idea, but if your not advancing timing and using it as simple cooling I feel its fine.

jangy

I have the Vadim VRP setup, but don't like the spikes. Yes, they do recover fast, but i think it is hurting the top end on the car...

jangy

I am talking about literally laying 2 rectangular blocks that have fluid in them on top where the Airbox was. I have no clue what that is called, I was just hoping to "pull" heat better so I called it an HE.
I want to be realistic and do something that will actually give gains and happen.

jangy

I would use it on a track, but I have two issues with it. First, I want a setup that is consistent (hours), noy just for drag runs. Second, I am really starting to believe that no amount of up front cooling will avoid the spikes UNTIL we can get the heat out of the intake faster.

jangy

If we can come up with some good ideas and have consensus form the OGs, then I am willing to try a few things on my car. I like having a final goal to work towards (thanks exotic), but would like to move the bar a bit.

Lets say we want a system that is able to "keep Peak IAT`s under 140 for 20 seconds or more in 70 plus weather"....

Looking at the obvious, how far has anyone gotten with retro-fitting a 65 cooling setup?

Exotic-metal55

Here is the picture I posted in my other thread going .. I asked if the 65/600 I/C tanks could be adapted . Even adding one auxilary box may do the trick.

https://mbworld.org/forums/3182619-post14.html

I still think the larger super pumps are a must. I feel water must be pumped twice as fast as the Cm30 and Bosch style pumps to force cool water into our small I/C box quickly. Re-cooling down stream is not a problem, unless you plan on 0-200mph runs..

Is it correct to assume that Jakpro has the lowest spiking IAT`s recorded??

Jakpro1

Mentioned this a few times but would anyone consider trying the killer chiller setup??

Sure looks like a great fix for our heat monsters.

Supposed only drawback is the AC doesn't quite work as well in the cabin but seems like an awesome heat reducer.

For those that don't know...Killer Chiller uses air conditioning system coolant to keep the intercooler fluid nice and cool.

http://www.killerchiller.com/

Marcus Frost

I've seen this system before and it seems like something worth exploring... we have some members from New Mexico on here... who's willing to go to bat for the platform and see if this works?

-m

jangy

I have the davies pump with larger inlet / outlets and a spare HE. I agree 100% with added flow. Your post is what got me thinking. I have the pic and am looking into parts.

jangy

I am into it, but getting to where I am more concerned with getting heat INTO the system than getting it out. I just feel like the motor is holding in lots of heat at that point. Yes, we can keep taking the front side efficient but if the heat can't get pulled, then what?

Marcus Frost

Jangy,

It sounds like you are trying to rewrite the laws of thermodynamics. Heat is a product of a number of things our engine is doing when you give it full throttle. You cannot really avoid an initial spike in IATs.

-m

chiromikey

according to my data logging, i can easily keep peak iat's under 140 with my set up within that time period. but imho, that still not efficient enough.

jangy, remote mount i/c is the only way to go. our oem i/c is simply not efficient enough. while i like the killerchiller idea, the fact that we lose hp by having to run the a/c doesn't excite me (although the trade off may be in our favor)...and it doesn't help that our ecu shuts off the a/c compressor during wot anyways.

jangy

I get that, but was just hoping to make it less of a spike by attacking something that we haven't pushed the envelop on. I know the true goal is unrealistic, but I'm hoping to get bigger bang for the buck with an easy mod that would increase my fluid capacity and happen to soak up more heat from the source (hopefully).

pshek

Have you looked into alcohol/H20 injection?

NitrogenBalance

I threw that one out there already.

Jangy, I'm no expert but it seems like half the people I talk too feel that H20/meth is a device only worthy of track use. I spent close to a year before I decided to go with mine researching it the entire time. I run my setup as my main means of cooling because it simply worked the best. Tuning off of IAT sensor and signaling flow rate with the MAF sensor it is perfectly linear with throttle/load/boost/IAT's etc. I run a medium size nozzle with a trunk mount setup and I fill it once a week when I'm using my car daily. Only a slob would say its a task tending to. You can't up the effeciency of your HE the times boost/IAT spikes so it just seems logical to spray as its delivery and onset is matching. It's fairly cheap and there are some pretty advanced controllers available. Just 2cents.

phantom1

Hello
I decided to use meth on my car and i was wondering could you recommend what brand and where to buy the system and the controller from. Thanks

stevebez

I think aquamist hfs5 is a good starting point...

Ohbev

Jangy

Y dont u just get the evosport cooling kit.

They say it drop's the temps by 70-80F degrees (ACT)

Also Marranos in sydney. has done a be4 and after with the evosport cooling kit.

He has a stock e55k on the dyno which made 409whp and then fitted the evosport cooling kit to the car. The car made 11whp more giving the car 420whp.

Im looking to buy a cooling system been asking alot of members on here for advise. The old threads i have read say u dont gain hp from adding H/E pump and so on. It will only help recovery time and help your car go its best most of the time.

But the evosport kit show's that u can make hp from adding a good cooling system.

So if the evosport kit can cool things down to the point of making hp then maybe it can also fix the prob you have ?

splinter

jangy is on hiatus from his supercharger modifications. :(

Mrbig

We need the slr coolers for $1,000.00 bucks then well be set !!!