loss of power then blower shut off
12-26-2008, 12:55 AM
#1
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loss of power then blower shut off
Took my e55 2003 model out for a big thrash on a cold night it was pulling very hard turning the tyres hard in first and in to second gear with esp on lol i was giving it alot of stick then on the way home i gave it a big hit from stand still to 200kmh then after that i gave it a few hits and it did not feel like it was going that fast i felt like it had lost some power then after a few more hit's i think the blower turned off it would not kick back and it was so so so so slow it was very slow then i just drove it home slow then i heard the sound of the blower turning on and it felt more power full down low then i just took the car home today i drove it again it was a very hot day power felt like it was back to normal it was not pulling as hard as that night but it was very cold that night and today it was very hot so im guessing its just the heat so i guess it's back to normal i think helppppppp guys whats going on i have heard the blower turns off when it gets hot but should the car loss power even be4 the blower turns off like it did to me i felt a power lose but the blower was still on then a few more hits turned the blower off i new it was off coz it felt slower then a push bike lol and it would not kick back
12-26-2008, 01:20 AM
#2
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2005 Crossfire SRT6
Sounds your intercooler pump failed and your IAT temps caused the SC clutch to disengage your SC to prevent permanent failure. Simple fix with a bosch ford lightning pump on ebay or if your under warranty.
12-26-2008, 02:38 AM
#3
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But today it felt ok can the pump be on its way out like still working but not so good ?
Last edited by Ohbev; 12-26-2008 at 02:42 AM.
12-26-2008, 02:56 AM
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2005 Crossfire SRT6
The pump may be on it's way out. So yes the temp sensor tells the ECU your reaching dangerous levels and saves your supercharger. Or at least that the intention of it. No supercharger and night and day difference.
Today you car cooled and maybe the pump was working fine and coupled with not pushing the car hard, kept it running.
You still under warranty?
Today you car cooled and maybe the pump was working fine and coupled with not pushing the car hard, kept it running.
You still under warranty?
12-26-2008, 03:21 AM
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
this is a known and common problem. the stock i/c pump will start intermittant failure before completely going out. this will cause iat's to spike above 140 degrees which will in turn cause ecu to pull timing and boost and dump fuel therefor limiting power. if iat's continue to rise another 60 degrees your s/c will shut off you lose what feels like all your power.
mb will replace your i/c pump with an improved version of the oem bosch pump if you are still under warranty (and maybe if you're out of warranty with a good service advisor). if not the johnson cm30 pump is an improvement and shouldn't cost much more than $150-200 parts and labor (less than $100 if you can diy).
mb will replace your i/c pump with an improved version of the oem bosch pump if you are still under warranty (and maybe if you're out of warranty with a good service advisor). if not the johnson cm30 pump is an improvement and shouldn't cost much more than $150-200 parts and labor (less than $100 if you can diy).
12-26-2008, 03:44 AM
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2005 Crossfire SRT6
Here's the link in case you have to do it yourself.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...Q5fAccessories
12-26-2008, 04:14 AM
#7
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this is a known and common problem. the stock i/c pump will start intermittant failure before completely going out. this will cause iat's to spike above 140 degrees which will in turn cause ecu to pull timing and boost and dump fuel therefor limiting power. if iat's continue to rise another 60 degrees your s/c will shut off you lose what feels like all your power.
mb will replace your i/c pump with an improved version of the oem bosch pump if you are still under warranty (and maybe if you're out of warranty with a good service advisor). if not the johnson cm30 pump is an improvement and shouldn't cost much more than $150-200 parts and labor (less than $100 if you can diy).
mb will replace your i/c pump with an improved version of the oem bosch pump if you are still under warranty (and maybe if you're out of warranty with a good service advisor). if not the johnson cm30 pump is an improvement and shouldn't cost much more than $150-200 parts and labor (less than $100 if you can diy).
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12-26-2008, 04:55 AM
#8
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Thread Starter
this is a known and common problem. the stock i/c pump will start intermittant failure before completely going out. this will cause iat's to spike above 140 degrees which will in turn cause ecu to pull timing and boost and dump fuel therefor limiting power. if iat's continue to rise another 60 degrees your s/c will shut off you lose what feels like all your power.
mb will replace your i/c pump with an improved version of the oem bosch pump if you are still under warranty (and maybe if you're out of warranty with a good service advisor). if not the johnson cm30 pump is an improvement and shouldn't cost much more than $150-200 parts and labor (less than $100 if you can diy).
mb will replace your i/c pump with an improved version of the oem bosch pump if you are still under warranty (and maybe if you're out of warranty with a good service advisor). if not the johnson cm30 pump is an improvement and shouldn't cost much more than $150-200 parts and labor (less than $100 if you can diy).
when they fit the new pump do i need to reset the ecu or any thing ?to make sure it does not pull timing or boost
when i fix the pump will the car pull hard like be4 ?
Last edited by Ohbev; 12-26-2008 at 05:08 AM.
12-26-2008, 09:26 AM
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
Took my e55 2003 model out for a big thrash on a cold night it was pulling very hard turning the tyres hard in first and in to second gear with esp on lol i was giving it alot of stick then on the way home i gave it a big hit from stand still to 200kmh then after that i gave it a few hits and it did not feel like it was going that fast i felt like it had lost some power then after a few more hit's i think the blower turned off it would not kick back and it was so so so so slow it was very slow then i just drove it home slow then i heard the sound of the blower turning on and it felt more power full down low then i just took the car home today i drove it again it was a very hot day power felt like it was back to normal it was not pulling as hard as that night but it was very cold that night and today it was very hot so im guessing its just the heat so i guess it's back to normal i think helppppppp guys whats going on i have heard the blower turns off when it gets hot but should the car loss power even be4 the blower turns off like it did to me i felt a power lose but the blower was still on then a few more hits turned the blower off i new it was off coz it felt slower then a push bike lol and it would not kick back
Is your car under warranty? Have you had the car long enough to know if it has ever done this before? Luckily it sounds like your repair should be fairly easy to do. Also, is your car 100% stock?
12-26-2008, 11:26 AM
#11
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Thanks to every one for there help and chirsomikey i think you are 100% right after i went from 0 to 200kmh the next 2 times i put my foot down the car did not go like be4 i could feel a big power lose it would have been pulling timing and boost then i keeped giving it and it turned off the sc so i guess your 100% right i got the car from a benz dealer it had 56k on it and they gave me 1 year warrenty with it not factory warrenty but there own so there should be no problem coz they are one of sydney biggest benz dealer with large work shop and i have papper work on the warrenty
when they fit the new pump do i need to reset the ecu or any thing ?to make sure it does not pull timing or boost
when i fix the pump will the car pull hard like be4 ?
when they fit the new pump do i need to reset the ecu or any thing ?to make sure it does not pull timing or boost
when i fix the pump will the car pull hard like be4 ?
12-27-2008, 07:29 AM
#12
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What is the best intercooler pump straight swap for my e55 komp money is not a problem the one with the most flow and one that will not stuff up like the stock one ?
12-27-2008, 10:34 AM
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12-27-2008, 05:02 PM
#14
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12-27-2008, 07:40 PM
#15
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what do you think ?
12-27-2008, 07:46 PM
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2005 Crossfire SRT6
Same pump, just get it fixed under warranty. You don't need a higher flowing pump unless you have extra cooling mods like a heat exchanger or trunk mount intercooler. That need more flow. If your going to run your car hard all the time for long extended periods than go for the cooling mods. Otherwise for the street your wasting your money and the stock system is fine.
12-28-2008, 01:16 AM
#18
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Same pump, just get it fixed under warranty. You don't need a higher flowing pump unless you have extra cooling mods like a heat exchanger or trunk mount intercooler. That need more flow. If your going to run your car hard all the time for long extended periods than go for the cooling mods. Otherwise for the street your wasting your money and the stock system is fine.
12-31-2008, 12:16 AM
#20
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12-31-2008, 09:52 AM
#21
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2005 Crossfire SRT6
The johnson pump really hasn't been around long enough for anyone to put 50k miles on it and see when it fails. Most of the pump failures were from cars that sat alot and the pump was dry most of the time. The motor in the pump is not what usually fails but the magnetic plastic part inside that spins the water through. It cracks and doesn't spin anymore, that's where the failure comes from. The stock one will be fine for at least another 50k miles. Remember either pump regardless of size will not gain any hp, it's just maintain cooling.
01-10-2009, 10:38 AM
#23
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