W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

I know there's a lot of concern over failed airmatic components - are there any

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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 09:29 AM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by squeegie
I joined the club for braking the black plastic wire bracket. I got the part number and the cost at my dealer was $3.25. Part# 211 545 23 40. Also, are you guys buying the MB tool to remove the air line? MB Part# 211 589 00 09 00. It is in essence a long socket with a slit cut the length of it so that it will slip over the air line.
Where did you find my part? DId it fall off? looks exactly like what mine did after I removed it but I didn't have the part number.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 09:30 AM
  #177  
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Originally Posted by infantry
Yes, all 4 sides are evenly sitting low.
If all slides are low then I would look at the air supply system. Items to consider are the system vent and lines, not to forget verify the compressor runs and it isn't just a blown fuse somewhere.

With all 4 down you might not have a blown strut or air spring.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 03:50 PM
  #178  
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Air line tool

My neighbor is a machinist and he just made me a tool to take the air line off. I gave him a deep well 10mm socket and he slotted it with a 3/16" slot. See photo. It works great.

He also drilled holes through it and gave me a small rod to use for leverage. Obviously the rod won't go all the way through because of the air line but it is only torqued to 17.7 inch lbs. so it isn't very tight.

I checked the price on the MB tool and it was $25.35. The socket is much cheaper. I'm a tight wad because I never heard of a loose wad.
Attached Thumbnails I know there's a lot of concern over failed airmatic components - are there any-2012-07-10-15.41.22.jpg  

Last edited by squeegie; Jul 10, 2012 at 04:23 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 04:32 PM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by squeegie
My neighbor is a machinist and he just made me a tool to take the air line off. I gave him a deep well 10mm socket and he slotted it with a 3/16" slot. See photo. It works great.

He also drilled holes through it and gave me a small rod to use for leverage. Obviously the rod won't go all the way through because of the air line but it is only torqued to 17.7 inch lbs. so it isn't very tight.

I checked the price on the MB tool and it was $25.35. The socket is much cheaper. I'm a tight wad because I never heard of a loose wad.
Impressive to be able to machine hardened tool steel. I have to have NASA here do it with high tech stuff.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 10:39 AM
  #180  
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Wire Bracket removal

I bought the replacement wire bracket and after inspecting it I found my error in the removal. It is removed from the outside of the frame rail not from the inside of the frame. I am attaching photos.

1. Push up on the front bottom of the bracket.
2. Pull on the top where the plastic comes to a point.
3. Lower the front and pull the tab from the slot at the back of the frame rail.

As for the custom socket my neighbor made. He said he used a angle grinder and a hand file to clean up the burrs. Most guys here could do it. Instead of drilling the hole you would only need to put two flat sides on opposite sides so that you could put a wrench on it to turn it. That is the design of the MB tool. (grinder again)
Attached Thumbnails I know there's a lot of concern over failed airmatic components - are there any-mercedes-001-600-x-400-.jpg   I know there's a lot of concern over failed airmatic components - are there any-mercedes-002-600-x-400-.jpg   I know there's a lot of concern over failed airmatic components - are there any-mercedes-003-600-x-400-.jpg   I know there's a lot of concern over failed airmatic components - are there any-mercedes-004-600-x-400-.jpg   I know there's a lot of concern over failed airmatic components - are there any-mercedes-005-600-x-400-.jpg  

I know there's a lot of concern over failed airmatic components - are there any-mercedes-006-600-x-400-.jpg  

Last edited by squeegie; Jul 13, 2012 at 12:49 PM.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 01:12 PM
  #181  
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Finished

Btw I just finished swapping out my right front airmatic strut. I am going to list the savings.

MB dealer gave a verbal estimate of $1250
$975.00 for strut
$220.00 for labor and possibly another $110.00 if they put it on diagnostic machine so lets just say $330.00 labor.

MB total $1305.00 + tax

My costs:
Arnott strut $675.88 including shipping minus $200.00 core = $475.88
Replacement plastic wire bracket from MB $3.25 + tax
my labor is free for me

My cost total $479.13

Savings = $825.87
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 01:44 PM
  #182  
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Just did mine via this post on the right front on a CLS55.
Not that hard I just used a brake wrench to get air line off its a box wrench with a slot in it.
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Old Jul 31, 2012 | 10:36 AM
  #183  
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ready for parts to arrive

should be delivered this afternoon

spent last night removing failed driver side air shock. I have decided to replace the functioning passenger side as well. call me OCD but I feel better that both sides will be done.

The failed driver side came out easily since it was collapsed however the passenger side was a little trickier. I forgot to disconnect the battery until I was done so on that side I had to remove the 3 bolt upper ball joint and move it away some. I was able to get the strut out with that extra clearance.

I am using a floor jack on the lift point under the motor to get the car high enough to put jack stands under the points below the door hinges, so both sides are up.

10mm open end on the air line

Will post again after the install
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Old Jul 31, 2012 | 11:37 AM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by tpick23
should be delivered this afternoon

spent last night removing failed driver side air shock. I have decided to replace the functioning passenger side as well. call me OCD but I feel better that both sides will be done.

The failed driver side came out easily since it was collapsed however the passenger side was a little trickier. I forgot to disconnect the battery until I was done so on that side I had to remove the 3 bolt upper ball joint and move it away some. I was able to get the strut out with that extra clearance.

I am using a floor jack on the lift point under the motor to get the car high enough to put jack stands under the points below the door hinges, so both sides are up.

10mm open end on the air line

Will post again after the install

You're lucky you have the 3 bolt removable top ball joint. Mine didn't have it and I had a tough time taking the ball joint apart.
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 12:54 PM
  #185  
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Easy Install

Just like described, i set the shocks on the engine, attached the top wires and touched the battery probably 6-7 times. Each time a whoosh of air was let out. Towards the 7th time i could tell the air was not rushing out as fast so I stopped and tried to fit the shocks. They went in with a little wiggling then used the floor jack to lift the control arm to insert the lower bolt.

Thanks for the help!
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 12:11 AM
  #186  
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Weee I get to change my right front strut now. The wife came home in a bad rainstorm driving 100 miles and at local gas station 1 mile from the house the stop now car too low came on and the right front has collapsed. Doesn't that sorta give you a warm fuzzy feeling to know your wife is driving 100 mile home at night in the rain to blow a strut and have to stop. Fortunately only 1 mile from home I was able to get it home with my diesel truck.

Arnott already has the order but note I could find NO forum discount AND the price has gone up about $125.00

Welcome to MB reliablity and ownership.

Oh well at least it wasn't the SBC brakes AGAIN

So much fun.

For the record on just MB E serices suspension. Bought new now at 121,000 miles

Replaced ball joints

Rear Airsprings

Rear airmatic shocks

Lf Front airmatic strut

Air suspension compressor

Not to mention 4 200 mile trips to the dealer for this service.

g.



But now lets compare suspension work to my diesel truck and Corvette also bought new

Diesel truck,, 168,000 miles

one wheel bearing

4 new shocks




Corvette 98,000 miles

1 set of shocks.



UMMM notice any comparisom.

The corvette has been race track tested at speeds way higher than the MB ever saw.

The truck has pulled loads and heavier weights than the MB ever had.

I just have so much fun working on suspensions in 98F heat and 100% humidity.

Last edited by vettdvr; Aug 7, 2012 at 08:40 AM.
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 09:06 AM
  #187  
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Funny how these things happen. I feel a little better about being OCD and doing both sides. Glad she got home safe and not too far from home. At least you got several thousand more miles out of the right side.
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 01:21 PM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by tpick23
Funny how these things happen. I feel a little better about being OCD and doing both sides. Glad she got home safe and not too far from home. At least you got several thousand more miles out of the right side.
When the Left side failed I had planned on buying a new car. But I oops. bought something way faster. I bought a plane and in 8 easy hours easily do 1200 road miles.

Since the right has failed now I will have a complete new air suspension system in the last 30,000 miles so hopefully I can "just ride " a while.

Reluctantly I started this morning on the job. I had to make a new jack stand. I have 4 sets but dang me the one I wanted had 1 missing so I modified an existing one to do the jack pad work.

Having done one before I just started pulling the wheel then inner fender. I knew I would break the shock wiring since dumb thumbs broke the other sideon the 1st job. But age, practice stepped in I got this one out without breaking anything.

Then I loosened the bottom strut bolt, top bolts and left air line connected and wiring until I have the new strut from the shipper.

So basically in about 2 hrs I am ready to drop out the old strut. It was a bit of effort to pull apart the ball joint because mine is the one piece design.

I looked at arnott pricing again and the price has gone up a bit but what made it look like a lot more was they went from $100 core deposit to $200.

I think the shipped cost inc core deposit is about $640 or so. This nets out about $400 for the strut + shipping.

The last one I put on had a broken wire connetor on the top not nice. But I managed to make it work and not have to wait for another. Hopefully this one arrives in as good a shape as the one I send them exclusive of holding air.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 09:43 AM
  #189  
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Somewhere on this site (I havent found) is a way to use 12V to the connector on the new strut to release the pressure w/o having to use the car harness. Does anyone know which contacts to use? or where to find this info? Thanks my replacement strut is on the truck for delivery.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 11:08 AM
  #190  
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Thank you for all the advice and instructions!

Successfully replaced the right front Airmatic shock after reading this thread. Would have lost much more skin off my knuckles and taught the neighborhood children a few new choice words had it not been for the tips such as using the battery to release pressure from the new shock.

When with Arnott and was VERY happy with both the quality of the product and the speed of shipping (they had one in Los Angeles so the shipping was closer). Sending the core back today for the $200 credit.

Hopefully, it will not be over 100 degrees and I wont have my garage blocked by a pile of decomposed granite the next time I have to work on this beast!
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 09:09 AM
  #191  
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Originally Posted by Ramapithacine
Successfully replaced the right front Airmatic shock after reading this thread. Would have lost much more skin off my knuckles and taught the neighborhood children a few new choice words had it not been for the tips such as using the battery to release pressure from the new shock.

When with Arnott and was VERY happy with both the quality of the product and the speed of shipping (they had one in Los Angeles so the shipping was closer). Sending the core back today for the $200 credit.

Hopefully, it will not be over 100 degrees and I wont have my garage blocked by a pile of decomposed granite the next time I have to work on this beast!
Well done! I just completed my Rt strut yesterday also. I didn't have to vent the arnott strut to install. With the ball joint apart I had the wheel turned fully to the left. This gave just enough room for the fully inflated strut to slide over the lower ball joint nut and on to the arm. Once on the arm a down pressure on the arm I was able to slide the bottom bolt in.

Haven't lowered the car yet because now I am pulling the front brakes off for new rotors / pads. The pads have 60,000 miles and just touched the wear sensor so they could run a while and the rotors have 122000 miles and are origional since new.

Nice to see now I have both front struts with lifetime warranty. Arnott discontinued our discount when I called. The strut was nice. The first one for the left side had the plug in at the top broken but I was able to use it. I wasn't impressed with the broken part. The 2nd one looked like new no defects. When the brake job is completed I'll know how it all pans out. Hopefully no error codes.

If the battery is disconnected expect a safety restrant warning in the FSS. It does clear after a few cycles.
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 08:54 PM
  #192  
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Ok guys blew my FR strut, so put one in and now both front struts won't go up, any idea?, fuses, relays?
Compressor is a new one from MB about 2 months ago

Last edited by Hulk; Aug 20, 2012 at 09:17 PM.
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Old Aug 28, 2012 | 10:18 AM
  #193  
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I'm considering purchasing a 07 E550 taking into consideration all the issues with the airmatic suspension is it worth the hassle?
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Old Aug 28, 2012 | 10:23 AM
  #194  
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Changed out both struts to Arnotts!
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 12:52 PM
  #195  
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about to take the 2 fronts off today, than when Advance sends mine, i will replace them. advance auto has them at $350 (Arnotts) and the core deposit is $125 only. i'm a happy man.
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 04:44 PM
  #196  
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I have no more airspension parts to worry about, sold the Mercedes.
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Old May 6, 2013 | 02:29 AM
  #197  
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Is it mostly the front airmatic suspension that fails or it's pretty random? I'm looking at an E55 that has both fronts replaced, but I'm worried about the rears going out also.
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Old May 6, 2013 | 08:13 AM
  #198  
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Originally Posted by fastneutron
Is it mostly the front airmatic suspension that fails or it's pretty random? I'm looking at an E55 that has both fronts replaced, but I'm worried about the rears going out also.
The rear system consist of 2 electronically adjustable shocks and tow air springs connected to an accumulator to dampen our road shock. You can have failures in the rear airsrpings (mine failed at 80,000 miles), lines to the accumulator or accumulator in addition to the compressor and associated electrical components.

I drove my E500 125000 miles(bought new) and during that time I had the front ball joints fail at 65,000 miles both airmatic shocks, rear air springs, and the compressor. Total expense for these parts amounted to right at $10,000 in dealer repairs.

Now you know why I no loinger own the car.
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Old May 6, 2013 | 10:11 AM
  #199  
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I'm wondering if other car manufacturers out there are running into the same issues using airbags?? Lexus, Landrover, Ford ??
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Old May 6, 2013 | 10:48 AM
  #200  
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Originally Posted by fastneutron
Is it mostly the front airmatic suspension that fails or it's pretty random? I'm looking at an E55 that has both fronts replaced, but I'm worried about the rears going out also.
Front Air Springs/Struts for most makes and models tend to go 1st since they take more abuse with turning and leaning and having a heavy engine riding on them. Of course the rears can certainly dry-rot and also go bad too. Arnott recently released a unique design for the rear air springs of the E-Class. The Arnott rear pair are are far less expensive ($715.75 - less a $50 cash back rebate when you return your used cores) and they are easier to install.

Remember forum members can save an additional 10%* off retail by using code MBSAVE12 during checkout

(Max $75 savings, not good on shipping, any core deposit or taxes if any).
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