dkinder

So I finally get my MAF issue worked out only to get hit with a new problem... I disconnected my battery to reset the ECU for the new MAF and once the car learned it, it ran great. Then the next day I noticed when I would come to a stop the engine was idling high... if I put the car into neutral it would hold revs at about 2200rpm. I drove to a parking lot and revved the engine and the revs went to about 4K and held. I turned it off and back on and back to a high idle ... back around 2K or so, but if I rev again it was back up.

I drove home and disconnected the battery to reset everything and when I hooked it back up only to have no throttle pedal response whatsoever. Additionally, even after I turned the steering wheel left and right lock to lock I still had ESP/BAS failures. I disconnected and reconnected the battery a few more times over the following hours, and one time I got throttle response back so I drove into my garage while I had the chance. I then turned my wheel left and right and my ABS and BAS failures cleared, as they should.

If I turn the car off and then start it back I get a Check Engine light for P0120 - Throttle Sensor/Pedal Position Circuit A. I figured it was the infamous throttle pedal failure so I went out and bought one from the stealership today, unhooked the battery, installed it, reconnected and guess what.... no throttle pedal response and ESP/BAS won't clear again.

I have tried to leave the key in the on position before starting for 5 minutes or so hoping the throttle body would adapt, but no look. Anyone know what's going on here?

shardul

iTrader: (1)

you should have hooked it up to the DAS before buying a new pedal. anyways now hook it up to the DAS

Jakpro1

Uh oh. I may have some bad news for ya. That is EXACTLY what my ECU did when I bricked it. Mine was moisture getting in and shorting it I believe (long story) but that is EXACTLY what mine would do. Hammerdown was down at Sacto and saw it in person. Freaky!

Not sure if you are stock, but if stock, maybe a trip to the stealer to see if they could reflash the ECU for ya.

Hope you don't have to buy a new one......bout 2K give or take

dkinder

Thanks for the help Jakpro ... it's off the the dealership now, so I guess we'll see what the doctor says. *fingers and toes crossed*

dkinder

Dealer just called and said it was the throttle actuator and they can have it back to me today for $1042. I told them to go ahead so we'll see if they nailed it or not.

Jakpro1

Awesome news!!! I love to be wrong, especially when it saves people cash. (I thought it might have been ECU)

Seriously, I need to have Ken check mine out. I can show you video of how mine did the same darn thing as yours. Only thing with mine, is that with other ECU's, it did not...just the bricked one.

Go figure.

Glad the beast will be back.

dkinder

Ahh, but it appears you most probably were not wrong. Got a call from the dealer saying "we replaced the throttle actuator and the problem is still there so we've ordered an ESP computer and are going to try that first (I still don't understand why they're ordering this) and if that doesn't do it we'll have to order an ME engine controller" (which I assume he's talking about the ECU).

You know, what gets me is that this is Mercedes, the people that made the car and all you seem to get anymore is "parts changers" instead of actual technicians that know what they're doing. Hell, I can change parts until I happen to luck across the culprit myself. In fact, I never take a car to the dealer unless it is absolutely, positively a last resort because I know I do better quality work myself because I wrote the check for the car. That's why it always makes me laugh when someone replies "should have taken it to the dealer" ... why, so they could change parts until they got which one was defective and then have some ridiculous claim that all of them failed at once or that one shorted out, killing the others so it could be on my dime in the end.

It seems to me $100K+ is enough money to have implemented a car of enough intelligence to tell the dealership which electrical component of the car has failed, but what do I know. I think there is more intelligence on this forum than in all the dealership service departments in the U.S. combined, but maybe I'm just 0 for 2 on Merc service departments.

////end rant and breathe

betrezra

I know this post is old but a few Kleemann blown 55's are experiencing this problem of no response from gas pedal:

Did the ESP computer fix the problem?

I'm going to try a new throttle body (actuator) and reset via star.

Thanks.

John&Joy~MLrs

The BAS lite comes on & No throttle function
fixed "No-Function, No start, No park unlock, problem, it was circuit 15 (K12 relay), it ran ! Yea!
the auto elec now could assess it, but 2 weeeks later he had limited time for tricky probs & on driving around he also was mystified how it can at times drive fine, then randomly if the revs are below 1000-RPM & traveling above 10KPH The BAS lite comes on & No throttle function, can back gear to 2nd to spin motor up, ignition off & on >power back on !!
I was given car back to play with till he had more time, I removed (progressively) all relays, stripped down & cleaned & restored All relays with high hopes as several were in poor condition, result >Same
If we approach intersections in 2nd gear left foot braking & right foot keeping motor above idle it is OK, not easy & unsaleable.
Surely Someone has some tips ??
Cheers

simonte53

Did you or someone else find the solution, my garage told me this should be the throttle actuator but I really don't like the SHOULD and the 2650$ bill, if you find the problem I am pretty sure it could help me !

Thanks,