W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63
View Poll Results: What to do about the rear rotors?
Just put the new pads in and forget about the rear rotors.
8
61.54%
Replace the rear rotors with the pads.
5
38.46%
Voters: 13. You may not vote on this poll

Rear rotors...to replace or to not replace, that is the question.

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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 09:34 AM
  #1  
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Rear rotors...to replace or to not replace, that is the question.

Just got done throwing a set of new rotors and Porterfield R4-S pads on the front of the beast. Now I need to do the rears.

The car has 25K miles so the rear rotors are in pretty good shape save for a slight lip at the top of the braking surface and a grove or two in the braking surface.

As I need to put the R4-S pads on the rear, I am debating on just slapping the pads in the calipers or replacing the rotors with a new set of stockers at the same time. I suppose a 3rd option would be to turn the rotors but given the cost of a new set, it is hardly worth it. Rotors are not even close to their wear limit.

Opinions?

BTW, I know the dealer would just slap pads in there and send it out the door.

BTW II, The AMG boys got lazy and didn't bother doing a left and right rotor so the crossdrill pattern runs on opposite directions on the left and right side. I honestly never noticed that before and always have ordered rotors by VIN so I never noticed that they had the same part number for both sides. It makes no performance difference but if Porsche and BMW can get it right, so can MB!

Last edited by Blacksport350; Apr 21, 2009 at 09:42 AM.
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 09:48 AM
  #2  
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I did my front pads and rotors but have been holding off on the rears after several members described the extreme difficulty they encountered in removing the rear calipers. Apparently you have to get out the breaker bar to loosen the caliper bolts. I don't understand why it is so difficult.
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 11:02 AM
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Locktite blue is commonly used on the bolts. Try heat with a propane torch to soften the glue and then apply pressure. It should come off.
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by reitmeid
I did my front pads and rotors but have been holding off on the rears after several members described the extreme difficulty they encountered in removing the rear calipers. Apparently you have to get out the breaker bar to loosen the caliper bolts. I don't understand why it is so difficult.
A little breaker bar action and it will be fine. If it is really stubborn, apply a bit of heat.

Talk about a fight, my front rotors were a b*** to get off. I fought with the drivers side for 40 minutes while the passenger side came of with 6 sharp blows. I know all the tricks in the book and that one just wanted to give me hell.

Next thing you know, I will come out to my garage and it will be covered with 100 frogs and have a picture of Allanlambo on the screen with his spiderman statue.
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 05:34 PM
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Why replace the rears if you aren't having shaking issues? If you have plenty of metal left then just move on.
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 05:59 PM
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I agree with Jangy on this one. Rear brakes are not responsible for much of your stopping power and the lip on the rear rotors (albeit a small one) shouldn't have any effect on braking. You should be able to run through two sets of pads before you need to replace a rotor.

BTW II, The AMG boys got lazy and didn't bother doing a left and right rotor so the crossdrill pattern runs on opposite directions on the left and right side. I honestly never noticed that before and always have ordered rotors by VIN so I never noticed that they had the same part number for both sides. It makes no performance difference but if Porsche and BMW can get it right, so can MB!
You make a good point. By MB casting a "one size fits all" rotor for the fronts, the cooling vanes do not turn right direction on one side. It's not a major issue to me, but you'd like to think they would get it right, especially on an AMG car.
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by bbearden
I agree with Jangy on this one. Rear brakes are not responsible for much of your stopping power and the lip on the rear rotors (albeit a small one) shouldn't have any effect on braking. You should be able to run through two sets of pads before you need to replace a rotor.



You make a good point. By MB casting a "one size fits all" rotor for the fronts, the cooling vanes do not turn right direction on one side. It's not a major issue to me, but you'd like to think they would get it right, especially on an AMG car.
It looks like I will just pad slap it based on the comments.

As to the one size fits all, I assumed they were straight veined but if not, that is a bit of a FUBAR! Directional veins running backwards are not a great idea but on a street car it is probably not a big deal.
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 08:42 PM
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BTW, I am going to do the same thing shortly, as I just recently did front pads and rotors and my rear set needs need pads. Where did you buys yours at? Am looking out there for some good deals.
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Blacksport350
It looks like I will just pad slap it based on the comments.

As to the one size fits all, I assumed they were straight veined but if not, that is a bit of a FUBAR! Directional veins running backwards are not a great idea but on a street car it is probably not a big deal.
Why don't you do it the right way: find out the wear limit and measure the rotors. It doesn't sound like you're out of limit, but wouldn't it be better to know for sure?
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bbearden
BTW, I am going to do the same thing shortly, as I just recently did front pads and rotors and my rear set needs need pads. Where did you buys yours at? Am looking out there for some good deals.
Directly from Porterfield, the R4-S pad is a favorite around here.
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 09:05 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by whoover
Why don't you do it the right way: find out the wear limit and measure the rotors. It doesn't sound like you're out of limit, but wouldn't it be better to know for sure?
They are not close to the wear limit. So not close that it isn't even worth walking across the garage to get the dial indicators out of the drawer.

The OEM pads are at 40% thickness.

Off to the garage to slap new pads on the old rotors.
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 11:05 PM
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Pads in...15 minutes par side.
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by bbearden
You make a good point. By MB casting a "one size fits all" rotor for the fronts, the cooling vanes do not turn right direction on one side. It's not a major issue to me, but you'd like to think they would get it right, especially on an AMG car.
Actually, the fans are straight out, if I remember them right. But to your point, even straight is not as good as pushing air through..
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 12:33 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Blacksport350
Directly from Porterfield, the R4-S pad is a favorite around here.
Sure is!!
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 01:20 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by jangy
Actually, the fans are straight out, if I remember them right. But to your point, even straight is not as good as pushing air through..

I took a look at mine (OEM) and they are curved, with the driver side vanes not running the right direction to maximize airflow. Am sure there are plenty of mfgs who may make them with straight vanes. I don't track the car, so they'd never get hot enough for the design to be a major issue.
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