rberga1

So I've been slowly renovating my garage for the past year. Had my floor done(epoxied), put up dry wall, installed new lighting (16 fluorescent bulbs), and installed Gladiator cabinets.
Now its time to look for low-midrise lifts since I don't have the height in my garage. Been researching for a while and narrowed it down to either the

Bendpak P-6
http://www.gesusa.com/BendPak-P-6-Pit-Lift-p/120203.htm


or Dannmar MaxJax Portable Two Post Lift http://www.gesusa.com/Dannmar-MaxJax...-p/1375659.htm.
http://www.maxjaxusa.com/

What do you guys think?

The Bendpak has a max lifting height of 26" while the Dannmar is 48". The Bendpak stays bolted to the floor and is 4" tall when lowered (May be able to park over it). The Dannmar also bolts to the floor via threaded cement anchors but you can remove each post and store to the side. The Bendpak seems a lot safer since it seems the Dannmar posts can cave in but I highly doubt that.

Pic of my low ceiling garage.

aleksandar1099

Hey buddy,

I would personally go with the two post lift. I think that the first option(the bendpak one) doesnt look like it would be great for our e55's underbelly pans and low profile side skirts! IMHO...

Hotrod-Realtor

Tire shops generally use the first style drive over lift. You could check one out there and see how it works for you.

shardul

iTrader: (1)

the ceiling may be too low in order to make full utilization of a lift, but then it depends on what you plan to use the lift for. routine maintenance will be ok.
it seems like even when the car is raised to its maximum height, you may still be sitting cross legged and doing the work.

rberga1

Hey aleks, the Bendpak one comes with rubber lifting blocks to put between the underbelly pans and the jack points on the car.

Yeah the lift will be used for routine maintenance...oil changes, brakes, suspension, and exhaust work. Getting it on a lift is a lot faster and safer than using jacks and jack stands. Plus with jack stands you can't get it as high as these low-midrise lifts.

With the 2 post one at max height, I should be able to sit on a roller chair as shown here

shardul

iTrader: (1)

wow that looks so good, wish i could get one. i would definitely get the two post one.

rberga1

More pics...

Motorcycle attachment

aleksandar1099

That lift looks awesome!!!

How much does it run... I might have to pick up one as well..... group buy anyone

komp55

I'm fortunate to now have a full-size twin-post Rotary lift in my garage. But prior to that, because of similiar low ceiling considerations in a different garage, I had a Mohawk scissors type lift like the Benk Pak you're considering.

Based on personal experience, I would strongly urge you to go with the two post configuration because it will offer you FAR better access to the underside of you car. That said, at least some of your decision depends on what type of work you plan to use the lift for. If you're planning to just change wheels and wax the side of your car, the Bend Pak, with it's lower rise is probably sufficient. But if you plan on doing actual maintenance work on your car, you will want the higher rise and accessibility of the twin-post lift. Either way, you will LOVE being able to have the ability to get the car off the ground for various projects.

rberga1

aleks - The cost on that site I linked was $1989.

komp55 - Yeah its not just for wheels changes and waxing the car . Major point of getting this lift is because it takes too long to jack up each corner and get a jackstand underneath.

I've been doing a lot of exhaust/header installs on my E and my cooper and only having 1.5 ft space height for jackstands doesn't cut it.

So I just placed an order for the 2 post lift... Hope it works out well!

komp55

You'll be happy with your choice.

Jakpro1

Just remember, you're life rests in the hands of 4 bolts per side.

Make sure they are done right and garage concrete is able to support etc.....

komp55

Excellent point on the concrete slab issue. There's a very good chance that a standard residential garage slab won't be up to the task of having between 4,000 and 5,000 lbs. loaded on two pressure points.

Most lift manufacturers specify a minimum of a 4" slab of reinforced concrete, rated at 4,000 psi. Many slabs may have the requisite thickness, but the concrete won't be strong enough. Since my house was, as my wife claims, actually designed around my garage , I was able to spec the garage slab concrete during the construction phase. We ended up with about 6" thickness, with the slab itself reinforced with both fiberglass filler and rebar. The guys that installed my lift joked about how thick the slab was and that it was better concrete than they had seen at a bunch of commercial lift install jobs they had done.

So definitely get a concrete expert to test your slab where you plan to install the lift, and plan on doing reinforced concrete pads or footings tied into the slab, if necessary, for the posts. That last thing you want to have happen is have a 2-ton car up on the lift and have one of the posts punch through the garage floor and dump your car off the lift.

And if you're still in the planning phase, another thing to consider is converting your garage door to a high-lift rail system so that you have higher clearance when the garage door is open - in case you want the door open when you have your car up in the air. Also, be thinking about compressed air as a future ehnancement . . . and the list goes on and on . . .

You'll love having a lift if you enjoy wrenching on your car like I do.

rberga1

Jakpro1 - Yeah the cement slab requirements are to be at least 4" thick and 2500-3000 PSI...and my life rests in the hands of 5 bolts not 4 :P.

komp55 - Haha...sweet job on the concrete slab...better concrete than seen at commercial sites. You got any pics of your garage?

I have a friend who knows some concrete guys to do an analysis on my slab. If not up to par, I'll have em cut out two 4ftx4ft sections 6" thick of 4000PSI cement for each post (Recommended by Dannmar's website if current slab not up to par)