P0505: idle control system malfunction?




I also have an OEM throttle body..mine fires up just throws the code when u drive it and my air / fuel at wide open throttle is 10.0...
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I thought it might help someone else to know this.

FYI, Shardul says that proper torque is 20Nm which is about 14.76 foot pounds.
Be careful not to snap, and tighten in a criss-cross pattern.
D-
EDIT:
I was getting the p0505 code only and some times while driving giving me the flashing gas light, with the red screen saying to tighten fuel cap. Also had a rough idle here and there.
Last edited by garagequeen; May 18, 2016 at 12:09 AM.
Hope this helps someone.

I used brake cleaner to go on the infamous leak hunt and the only place where the engine stutters is if I spray it directly at the Y-piece where it connects to the TB. But since that is before the TB it shouldn't be the cause to throw the P0505/P20A2 (in DAS).
I also get the P202B-002 idle speed control implausible short to ground and P2007-008 Pressure Sensor B28 Signal implausible on occasion but I think that is just a side effect.
The purge line (small little aluminum pipe) is all the way in the snout. The grommet is new. The breather hoses are both new.
I tried two different TBs to rule a bad one out.
I'm running out of ideas.
I used brake cleaner to go on the infamous leak hunt and the only place where the engine stutters is if I spray it directly at the Y-piece where it connects to the TB. But since that is before the TB it shouldn't be the cause to throw the P0505/P20A2 (in DAS).
I also get the P202B-002 idle speed control implausible short to ground and P2007-008 Pressure Sensor B28 Signal implausible on occasion but I think that is just a side effect.
The purge line (small little aluminum pipe) is all the way in the snout. The grommet is new. The breather hoses are both new.
I tried two different TBs to rule a bad one out.
I'm running out of ideas.
Pressurize the system with 18psi and cap off what should flow air while running and look for leaks. When I did this it revealed a huge vacuum leak at due to an aging and failing brake booster plug on back of the snout. How I tested bc I don't have a smoke machine was similar to my turbo car days:
seeMake sure compressor is full (30gallon-130psi) adjust regulator to 18-20psi. Close garage. Turn off any sound so you can isolate where any leak could be coming from. Take off surge tanks. Cap off rubber coupling to surge tanks. Silicone coupler used with T-bolt clamps to cap throttle body. Unplug line on bottom of throttle body and use a 5/8" hose with a clamp to keep it on the throttle body. Cap end of 5/8" hose. Unplug SAI vacuum port feed line next to the black vacuum port already capped on snout. That will be your pressure input line. Use an inline pressure gauge with a vacuum T showing pressure on the line. Charge the system up to 18PSI and listen and wait. If it's bleeding air you will hear it and can judge where the sound is coming from. Gauge will also show pressure drop
I had no clue how bad my brake booster plug was leaking until this test and was going nuts trying to figure out why my idle became rough.
Bunch of stuff on order now for the reseal, bearing re-lube, wiring continuity verification and re-insulation.
"If you take it apart put it back better than you found it"
I replaced the following when I did the mod:
- gasket between engine and Kompressor
- gasket between Kompressor and surge tanks
- gasket between Kompressor and snout
- gasket between Kompressor and intercooler
- grommet for the Aluminium pipe from the gas tank vacuum line
- breather hose from TB to valve covers
- vacuum hose from valve cover to Y-pipe
Now I'm gonna take it all out and replace the rubber hose type seal on the bypass flap and the pressure sensor and hope this is it.
Last edited by Mackhack; Aug 12, 2017 at 12:33 PM.
I replaced the following when I did the mod:
- gasket between engine and Kompressor
- gasket between Kompressor and surge tanks
- gasket between Kompressor and snout
- gasket between Kompressor and intercooler
- grommet for the Aluminium pipwmfor the gas tank vacuum line
- breather hose from TB to valve covers
- vacuum hose from valve cover to Y-pipe
Now I'm gonna take it all out and replace the rubber hose type seal on the bypass flap and the pressure sensor and hope this is it.
My booster plug appeared fine and didnt display any symptoms of failing. Once I added pressure it became glaringly evident it was leaking and causing my idle issue. I ripped the plug out and capped it with a tapered rubber plug with a big bolt to expand it and seal tightly until this weekend/next week when the charger will come off again.
My booster plug appeared fine and didnt display any symptoms of failing. Once I added pressure it became glaringly evident it was leaking and causing my idle issue. I ripped the plug out and capped it with a tapered rubber plug with a big bolt to expand it and seal tightly until this weekend/next week when the charger will come off again.







