E63 Front Pads Change
#2
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You'll need a hammer & a small flathead or phillips to remove the top & bottom pins, and a 13mm socket to remove the center brace.
Use tool of choice to push pistons back.
New Pads and Sensor Installed
Back Together Again
After 21,000 miles
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shadymilkman (10-19-2021)
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2003 CL55 Kompressor Horizon Blue Metallic
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2005 BLK/BLK E-Double Nickel.
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No problem glad to be able to give something back to the forum. Save your cores.......you can contact the after market companies about re-lining them at a discounted price.
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2007 E63, 2006 C55
RE: E63 Front Pad Change
Very nice write up and pics.
I also did mine week before last with OEM (using latest MB part number to eliminate squeaking) pads. Mine weren't as worn as yours, probably about 50%, I just turned 16K on my car. I also flushed/bled the old fluid from the front calipers. The brake pedal is now rock solid, and the car stops RIGHT NOW when I need to. Awesome brakes. Total job took me under an hour.
Thanks for posting for us.
I also did mine week before last with OEM (using latest MB part number to eliminate squeaking) pads. Mine weren't as worn as yours, probably about 50%, I just turned 16K on my car. I also flushed/bled the old fluid from the front calipers. The brake pedal is now rock solid, and the car stops RIGHT NOW when I need to. Awesome brakes. Total job took me under an hour.
Thanks for posting for us.
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2007 E63 w/P30 and Eurotech CF Diffuser
Best E63 brake post
Thanks to xabo for posting this. There is a ton of mis-information on the forum. The big item is NO SBC on E63!!! All the 55 guys messing me up with information on their cars that does not apply to 63s. This also explains how I have pedal feel and they don't.
There was also no information I could use to order brake pads other than the stock OEMs.
Here is a great place http://www.placeforbrakes.com/index.php I followed some other recommendations but was only able to find products for the 55.
No problem ordering EBC red or yellow pads right over the net from these guys. They had others but you need to call. They do not carry Porterfield and no one has shown Porterfield has front pads for E63 (they do have rears which are common to previous models).
Since I have a pressure bleeder, I will do the job myself. My understanding is that the bleed order is RR, LR, LF, RF but this is an assumption from a 55 posting.
As for brake fluid, I will stay with stock. The performance is very good in the first place. Castrol SRF is the top of the line AND recommended to me by the Black Series AMG engineers who I met at Laguna Seca. The Castrol web site is very clear about ensuring all other brake fluid be flushed out in order to achieve their stated performance. Also, their fluid only has a 18month life until it must be replaced. Again, info from Castrol.
So I am at 40K and will probably tackle this job in a couple of weeks. Just need to check the rotor thicknesses. I hope they will go another stint.
I will post a DIY with pictures when I do it.
There was also no information I could use to order brake pads other than the stock OEMs.
Here is a great place http://www.placeforbrakes.com/index.php I followed some other recommendations but was only able to find products for the 55.
No problem ordering EBC red or yellow pads right over the net from these guys. They had others but you need to call. They do not carry Porterfield and no one has shown Porterfield has front pads for E63 (they do have rears which are common to previous models).
Since I have a pressure bleeder, I will do the job myself. My understanding is that the bleed order is RR, LR, LF, RF but this is an assumption from a 55 posting.
As for brake fluid, I will stay with stock. The performance is very good in the first place. Castrol SRF is the top of the line AND recommended to me by the Black Series AMG engineers who I met at Laguna Seca. The Castrol web site is very clear about ensuring all other brake fluid be flushed out in order to achieve their stated performance. Also, their fluid only has a 18month life until it must be replaced. Again, info from Castrol.
So I am at 40K and will probably tackle this job in a couple of weeks. Just need to check the rotor thicknesses. I hope they will go another stint.
I will post a DIY with pictures when I do it.
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07 E63, 12 E350, 14 GLK350, 16 C450
Jon, which pads did you end up going with? I am at 43k miles now with squealing under light braking only and seems to make noise only after the pads are warmed up, but probably time soon to change. I am 2nd owner so not sure when last they were done..no brake sensor warning however but the squealing is getting progressively louder..
Last edited by yippyskippy107; 08-17-2010 at 02:17 AM. Reason: a
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2007 E63, 2005 Dodge Ram Hemi
I actually had my rotors well within spec when I changed my front pads at 38K, and that came out of my SA's mouth. I too went with OEM pads since the only problem they have is the ridiculous amount of brake dust, but if 4200 pounds stops as fast as it does I can live with that. I actually put Motul 600 in and it stiffened my pedal a little more. It also kept pretty good feel thru 3 20-minute track sessions over 100 degrees outside.
Thanks for the pics and thread..!!
Thanks for the pics and thread..!!
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2007 E63 w/P30 and Eurotech CF Diffuser
I ended up going with stock pads.
After my session at Laguna, my disks are below minimum. I know this because measured before the event they only had 0.05 inch left and now the slots are starting to fade in places. The car has 75k on it.
I have decided to use
http://www.racingbrake.com/Two_piece...141-381-02.htm
For the front. Not sure on the rears. It is a toss up between stock and evosport. Planning on EBC Yellow all around.
Will get evosport Ti brake shims.
I will not do all this until I prep for another track day. If it was all street I would be good for another 20k.
This is a good old post to revive. The DIY was great.
After my session at Laguna, my disks are below minimum. I know this because measured before the event they only had 0.05 inch left and now the slots are starting to fade in places. The car has 75k on it.
I have decided to use
http://www.racingbrake.com/Two_piece...141-381-02.htm
For the front. Not sure on the rears. It is a toss up between stock and evosport. Planning on EBC Yellow all around.
Will get evosport Ti brake shims.
I will not do all this until I prep for another track day. If it was all street I would be good for another 20k.
This is a good old post to revive. The DIY was great.
#17
The site you linked to says these discs do not have a provision for a retaining screw. I've never seen a disc without one, including the Brembo GTs I put on my car. Wondering if that's a great idea?
#18
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Why is everyone so concerned with "disabling" the SBC... Just make sure that the car is off, without keys anywhere around it, and the doors are shut.... Also make sure that no one can can press any of the buttons on the remote to unlock/lock your car or open the trunk. If you are still paranoid, all you have to do is remove the wiring harness to the SBC unit... I have changed my brakes, as well as other people's and not once did I have any problems... I didn't remove the wiring harness either...
#19
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Why is everyone so concerned with "disabling" the SBC... Just make sure that the car is off, without keys anywhere around it, and the doors are shut.... Also make sure that no one can can press any of the buttons on the remote to unlock/lock your car or open the trunk. If you are still paranoid, all you have to do is remove the wiring harness to the SBC unit... I have changed my brakes, as well as other people's and not once did I have any problems... I didn't remove the wiring harness either...
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Well, the only other E Class that has it, is the E55 and it has eight piston calipers. The principle is still the same for changing the pads, just more of them.
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2014 E63s 1993 mazda rx7 on Boost
I also went OEM found on Ebay for 140.00 seller had 10 sets
I am not sure if you open the bleeder nipple as you compress the pistons back in. You should open it to let the bad fluid out on both side of the caliper.
This way you are not pushing dirty fluid back into the system.
Only open the nipple on the caliper side you are compressing slip the pad in and do the other side of the caliper. 1/2 at a time
This way you are not pushing dirty fluid back into the system.
Only open the nipple on the caliper side you are compressing slip the pad in and do the other side of the caliper. 1/2 at a time
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Who said I was only talking about the E class? Again, it was a general statement regarding the SBC system in general... Not a specific vehicle...
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2007 E63 w/P30 and Eurotech CF Diffuser
Why is everyone so concerned with "disabling" the SBC... Just make sure that the car is off, without keys anywhere around it, and the doors are shut.... Also make sure that no one can can press any of the buttons on the remote to unlock/lock your car or open the trunk. If you are still paranoid, all you have to do is remove the wiring harness to the SBC unit... I have changed my brakes, as well as other people's and not once did I have any problems... I didn't remove the wiring harness either...