172mm vs. 180mm Pulley
#1
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Lafayette, IN
2008 ML63 2009 SL63 2010 Alpha 7 GTR
172mm vs. 180mm Pulley
What are the pros and cons of both pulleys? I am getting the extra cooling, and tune done regardless, and the car is a daily driver. Thanks guys!
#6
#7
The only thing I could tell you is that the 180mm pulley with additional cooling is turning stage 1 cars into total torque monsters. If you're getting the cooling mods done I wouldn't even think twice about going with the 180mm pulley. If you live in a area with high temps I would consider adding a rear reservoir box for even further cooling. IMO if you end up going with a smaller pulley now you'll have regrets later. Just do the big one first .
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#8
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,582
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From: Lafayette, IN
2008 ML63 2009 SL63 2010 Alpha 7 GTR
I have been hearing that a lot on this forum. Do the 180 so that you will not regret it later. Eurocharge seems to really want to put the 172 rather than the 180. I am just like everyone else and want the most for my money, so the 180 makes sense. I also plan to keep the car for a while and do not want to hurt the longevity of my engine.
#9
There is one catch. There are a few EVOSport and RennTech pullied cars doing quite well, too.
I have always been torn on bigger pulley vs cooler and more responsive. I am running a 180 now and hope to optimize intake and exhaust to run enough boost but also get the heat through.
I have always been torn on bigger pulley vs cooler and more responsive. I am running a 180 now and hope to optimize intake and exhaust to run enough boost but also get the heat through.
#10
There is a E55 in Florida running a 168mm pulley with full Renntech mods except for Kleeman headers that's fast as hell. I believe he's running between 11.1-11.2 with a high octane tune. With that said smaller pulley's make power too. Maybe it should be based on your climate and conditions??? Very hot and humid areas might require using a smaller pulley...like Florida.
If you want longevity keep it stock and under warranty. There are no guarantee's when it comes to mods.
If you want longevity keep it stock and under warranty. There are no guarantee's when it comes to mods.
#11
I just sent back my let 172 pulley before I installed it.Im going with the 180 and will do a good before and after review once all is done.
went to the drags tonight for my best run of 12.50 at 113 fully stock car
went to the drags tonight for my best run of 12.50 at 113 fully stock car
#12
I think you should consider what you're using the car for as well.
I had a friend who had both a 172 and 180...both with cooling mods in place and the 180 made more power on the dyno, and ran quicker at the drag strip...BUT if your in a situation where you're doing multiple pulls on the freeway it would heat soak soo quickly that the car was not nearly as quick for the 2nd or 3rd runs if they were all back to back.
On the dyno we saw the same thing despite his cooling mods. It made HUGE power on the first pull and then less and less each additional pull as heat became an issue. The 172 did this as well but not nearly as bad.
I've been thinking about going from my 168 Renntech up to a 172. For how I use my car I don't think the 180 is right for me. Everyone will be different though.
Andy
I had a friend who had both a 172 and 180...both with cooling mods in place and the 180 made more power on the dyno, and ran quicker at the drag strip...BUT if your in a situation where you're doing multiple pulls on the freeway it would heat soak soo quickly that the car was not nearly as quick for the 2nd or 3rd runs if they were all back to back.
On the dyno we saw the same thing despite his cooling mods. It made HUGE power on the first pull and then less and less each additional pull as heat became an issue. The 172 did this as well but not nearly as bad.
I've been thinking about going from my 168 Renntech up to a 172. For how I use my car I don't think the 180 is right for me. Everyone will be different though.
Andy
#13
I think you should consider what you're using the car for as well.
I had a friend who had both a 172 and 180...both with cooling mods in place and the 180 made more power on the dyno, and ran quicker at the drag strip...BUT if your in a situation where you're doing multiple pulls on the freeway it would heat soak soo quickly that the car was not nearly as quick for the 2nd or 3rd runs if they were all back to back.
On the dyno we saw the same thing despite his cooling mods. It made HUGE power on the first pull and then less and less each additional pull as heat became an issue. The 172 did this as well but not nearly as bad.
I've been thinking about going from my 168 Renntech up to a 172. For how I use my car I don't think the 180 is right for me. Everyone will be different though.
Andy
I had a friend who had both a 172 and 180...both with cooling mods in place and the 180 made more power on the dyno, and ran quicker at the drag strip...BUT if your in a situation where you're doing multiple pulls on the freeway it would heat soak soo quickly that the car was not nearly as quick for the 2nd or 3rd runs if they were all back to back.
On the dyno we saw the same thing despite his cooling mods. It made HUGE power on the first pull and then less and less each additional pull as heat became an issue. The 172 did this as well but not nearly as bad.
I've been thinking about going from my 168 Renntech up to a 172. For how I use my car I don't think the 180 is right for me. Everyone will be different though.
Andy
what do u want
numbers and one time runs followed by cool downs at the track
or a consistant car that can go back to back with simular results?
bes way to see this if we could have two cars with same mods but different pullies doing back to back
#18
I think you should consider what you're using the car for as well.
I had a friend who had both a 172 and 180...both with cooling mods in place and the 180 made more power on the dyno, and ran quicker at the drag strip...BUT if your in a situation where you're doing multiple pulls on the freeway it would heat soak soo quickly that the car was not nearly as quick for the 2nd or 3rd runs if they were all back to back.
On the dyno we saw the same thing despite his cooling mods. It made HUGE power on the first pull and then less and less each additional pull as heat became an issue. The 172 did this as well but not nearly as bad.
I've been thinking about going from my 168 Renntech up to a 172. For how I use my car I don't think the 180 is right for me. Everyone will be different though.
Andy
I had a friend who had both a 172 and 180...both with cooling mods in place and the 180 made more power on the dyno, and ran quicker at the drag strip...BUT if your in a situation where you're doing multiple pulls on the freeway it would heat soak soo quickly that the car was not nearly as quick for the 2nd or 3rd runs if they were all back to back.
On the dyno we saw the same thing despite his cooling mods. It made HUGE power on the first pull and then less and less each additional pull as heat became an issue. The 172 did this as well but not nearly as bad.
I've been thinking about going from my 168 Renntech up to a 172. For how I use my car I don't think the 180 is right for me. Everyone will be different though.
Andy
https://mbworld.org/forums/3686561-post1.html
#19
Problem solved.
https://mbworld.org/forums/3686561-post1.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/3686561-post1.html
You ask your opponent if he can hang on really quick and take a detour while you run to the gas station to put some ice in the tank?
p.s. Your wheels are SEKS
#20
While I don't disagree that's a viable solution...what happens when you've left the car sitting outside at work all day in the heat and have a chance encounter on the drive home.
You ask your opponent if he can hang on really quick and take a detour while you run to the gas station to put some ice in the tank?
p.s. Your wheels are SEKS
You ask your opponent if he can hang on really quick and take a detour while you run to the gas station to put some ice in the tank?
p.s. Your wheels are SEKS
Heat soak is real. HE's do not cure it, they just help with he recovery and to combat the spiking.
Again I would love for 180 vs XXX smaller pulley comparison on back to back runs
#21
While I don't disagree that's a viable solution...what happens when you've left the car sitting outside at work all day in the heat and have a chance encounter on the drive home.
You ask your opponent if he can hang on really quick and take a detour while you run to the gas station to put some ice in the tank?
p.s. Your wheels are SEKS
You ask your opponent if he can hang on really quick and take a detour while you run to the gas station to put some ice in the tank?
p.s. Your wheels are SEKS
Here are some things to consider. Boost is relative to load. 90% of the time you are driving off boost. The only time you're going to potentially heat soak the I/C is during prolonged WOT high speed pulls. With a large H/E and remote setup this is no longer an issue. Remember as the car moves and air moves across the heat exchanger. The coolant is constantly being cooled. This process is much more efficient because its not connected to the the cars primary coolant system and the reservoir is in the trunk which is far far away from the engine bay.
Edit:
Im in the process of doing a 180mm pulley rear tank and supporting mods. I will have dyno numbers once everything is complete.
#22
Maybe I need to research a little more then. I understand the split systems and the external resivoir...but it too will heat soak pretty badly without ice or dry ice in the resivoir correct? That was my point with the example of driving home after the car has been sitting all day. The resivoir has no additional cooling so is it really any more effective without the provisiion for additional cooling.
Andy
Andy
#23
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,484
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From: Abu Dhabi
C218 CLS63TT PP Edition1, W213 E63S
i have a 172mm and after 2 or 3 hard runs these days the enigne temp increase on the dashboard and stock cars start to close up with me in performance ><
of course our weather in summer sucks but i only drive the benz in summer after midnight. thats why im going for HE upgrade, spacers, etc
of course our weather in summer sucks but i only drive the benz in summer after midnight. thats why im going for HE upgrade, spacers, etc
#24
Maybe I need to research a little more then. I understand the split systems and the external resivoir...but it too will heat soak pretty badly without ice or dry ice in the resivoir correct? That was my point with the example of driving home after the car has been sitting all day. The resivoir has no additional cooling so is it really any more effective without the provisiion for additional cooling.
Andy
Andy
#25
Based on what?
Actual AMG 55k data, or your experience with other cars?
If it is the later then u can not make statements like that
I say this because several larger pulley cars have been passed by stock cars and smaller pulley cars
Some where heat related, some where tuning related.
Go search some of the HE threads. think there was one by code 3 where they showed the ASP pulley (175) I believe at the time and how much more heat it created (spiking in temps)
Just so you know where you stand, u need to data log. Apparently over 140f is when the car starts to pull timing
Actual AMG 55k data, or your experience with other cars?
If it is the later then u can not make statements like that
I say this because several larger pulley cars have been passed by stock cars and smaller pulley cars
Some where heat related, some where tuning related.
Go search some of the HE threads. think there was one by code 3 where they showed the ASP pulley (175) I believe at the time and how much more heat it created (spiking in temps)
Just so you know where you stand, u need to data log. Apparently over 140f is when the car starts to pull timing