E55 rear caliper bolts.
#1
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E55 rear caliper bolts.
Does anyone know what size the rear caliper bolts are? They look like torx..
Need to change my brakes so any help would be greatly appreciated.
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#2
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Anyone?
#4
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Thanks Jangy! Can you confirm the size? Need to ask my snap on guy for that. What's it called, a female torx socket size 40 or 45? Good to know some people can still wrench on there own cars.
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#6
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My torx set stops at 16. I don't see E? Are you sure it's not T-18?
#7
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Here is a great torx set, it has a security versions as well. I got it as soon as I bought the car:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=310169793356
I have yet to find one that isnt in here aside from very tiny ones on the electronics, but for that I got another one:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...0051&langId=-1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=310169793356
I have yet to find one that isnt in here aside from very tiny ones on the electronics, but for that I got another one:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...0051&langId=-1
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#8
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Jangy is right its an E18 ... and you will need good leverage - I cracked TWO sockets before they would budge.
Best option is to get the car on a lift and do it from there... you just cannot get the leverage under the car.... be careful and get solid / quality sockets with a 1/2 drive and 3ft breaker bar.
Best option is to get the car on a lift and do it from there... you just cannot get the leverage under the car.... be careful and get solid / quality sockets with a 1/2 drive and 3ft breaker bar.
#9
Here's a picture of the required size torx socket:
![](http://i513.photobucket.com/albums/t335/morbidcurosity/Brembo%20DIY/5atorxsocket.jpg)
The one pictured is a Facom brand socket. You could also consider buying a set of impact torx sockets; they tend to be much heavier duty than regular hand-tool style sockets and won't break. I've attached a copy of the page from the Facom catalog.
![](http://i513.photobucket.com/albums/t335/morbidcurosity/Brembo%20DIY/5atorxsocket.jpg)
The one pictured is a Facom brand socket. You could also consider buying a set of impact torx sockets; they tend to be much heavier duty than regular hand-tool style sockets and won't break. I've attached a copy of the page from the Facom catalog.
Last edited by komp55; 02-19-2013 at 04:36 PM.
#11
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I thought it was going to be the E18. I just wanted to make sure. I will grab the rest of the impact set today! I have a lift at my shop and some heavy duty breaker bars. It should work out. ![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Stevebez, I know what you mean. We just did a brake job on a cayenne turbo and the caliper bolts felt like they were welded on there.
It appears to be from the loctite that was on the threads. Thanks for all the help guys!
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Stevebez, I know what you mean. We just did a brake job on a cayenne turbo and the caliper bolts felt like they were welded on there.
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#13
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I had a 3 ft breaker bar and it began rounding the bolts.... you need loads of grip on the nut to get it to "crack" loose. Even after the first crack it took alot of effort. I would say way more than 130ft/lb is needed. I was putting full force behind a 1m bar so lets say 500Nm... ~ 350ftlb and the breaker bar was flexing a touch
![EEK!](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
I suppose thats how much the sockets are good for.... a reasonably good quality 3/8ths drive socket broke promptly, the half inch worked.... I think in the end I used a 2lb hammer to knock the socket onto the nut to make sure it was a super snug fit. Once I had this and the right pulling angle it was creak (my g*d is it moving?) , creak (is that the socket breaking or the nut?), creak (its loose!) and done. I still have the bolt somewhere as a prize!
Also forget any WD40 and bolt loosener solution as the flat flange on the nut does not let any fluid get to the threads... so don't waste your time. If anything it makes the socket slip off the nut!!!!
You might be lucky and it could come off easily - but all of them so far I have heard of are a major PITA... use a lift and make sure you have perfect contact on the nut - there is also limited access for an impact driver... my small one had no chance.
This might help ?
http://www.dewalt.co.uk/powertools/p...catno/DC800KL/
![naughty](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif)
![EEK!](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
I suppose thats how much the sockets are good for.... a reasonably good quality 3/8ths drive socket broke promptly, the half inch worked.... I think in the end I used a 2lb hammer to knock the socket onto the nut to make sure it was a super snug fit. Once I had this and the right pulling angle it was creak (my g*d is it moving?) , creak (is that the socket breaking or the nut?), creak (its loose!) and done. I still have the bolt somewhere as a prize!
Also forget any WD40 and bolt loosener solution as the flat flange on the nut does not let any fluid get to the threads... so don't waste your time. If anything it makes the socket slip off the nut!!!!
You might be lucky and it could come off easily - but all of them so far I have heard of are a major PITA... use a lift and make sure you have perfect contact on the nut - there is also limited access for an impact driver... my small one had no chance.
This might help ?
http://www.dewalt.co.uk/powertools/p...catno/DC800KL/
Last edited by stevebez; 09-24-2009 at 01:41 PM.
#14
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a quarter mile at a time
I had a 3 ft breaker bar and it began rounding the bolts.... you need loads of grip on the nut to get it to "crack" loose. Even after the first crack it took alot of effort. I would say way more than 130ft/lb is needed. I was putting full force behind a 1m bar so lets say 500Nm... ~ 350ftlb and the breaker bar was flexing a touch
![EEK!](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
I suppose thats how much the sockets are good for.... a reasonably good quality 3/8ths drive socket broke promptly, the half inch worked.... I think in the end I used a 2lb hammer to knock the socket onto the nut to make sure it was a super snug fit. Once I had this and the right pulling angle it was creak (my g*d is it moving?) , creak (is that the socket breaking or the nut?), creak (its loose!) and done. I still have the bolt somewhere as a prize!
Also forget any WD40 and bolt loosener solution as the flat flange on the nut does not let any fluid get to the threads... so don't waste your time. If anything it makes the socket slip off the nut!!!!
You might be lucky and it could come off easily - but all of them so far I have heard of are a major PITA... use a lift and make sure you have perfect contact on the nut - there is also limited access for an impact driver... my small one had no chance.
This might help ?
http://www.dewalt.co.uk/powertools/p...catno/DC800KL/
![naughty](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif)
![EEK!](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
I suppose thats how much the sockets are good for.... a reasonably good quality 3/8ths drive socket broke promptly, the half inch worked.... I think in the end I used a 2lb hammer to knock the socket onto the nut to make sure it was a super snug fit. Once I had this and the right pulling angle it was creak (my g*d is it moving?) , creak (is that the socket breaking or the nut?), creak (its loose!) and done. I still have the bolt somewhere as a prize!
Also forget any WD40 and bolt loosener solution as the flat flange on the nut does not let any fluid get to the threads... so don't waste your time. If anything it makes the socket slip off the nut!!!!
You might be lucky and it could come off easily - but all of them so far I have heard of are a major PITA... use a lift and make sure you have perfect contact on the nut - there is also limited access for an impact driver... my small one had no chance.
This might help ?
http://www.dewalt.co.uk/powertools/p...catno/DC800KL/
#15
#17
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#18
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Thanks to everyone for the help and quick responses! Calipers came off nicely.
Thanks to Chiromikey for the rotors and pads!
Thanks to Chiromikey for the rotors and pads!
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#19
It's been absolutely the best upgrade I've done on my car. They're lighter and they stop exceedingly well - much improved over the factory brakes. I'm using Ferodo DS2500 compound pads and have been very happy with the pads as well. As I mentioned in the DIY posts I did on these when I installed them, I was fortunate to purchase a used complete front and rear set, which made these affordable for me. I know buying new is a costly proposition. All told, it would be really sad to have to go back to the puny brakes that came on the car.
#21
I just posted about this on another thread...I tried an eletric 350ft/lb Dewalt impact gun. With a couple of extension and swivel it didn't have a chance. I'm now going to buy some air tools and remove one control arm to get the impact gun in there. I guess we will see if it works. I don't have a lift I have it on jack stands so lets hope for the best.
The electric impact gun was strong enough to remove a stubborn axel nut on a turbo porsche but not for this caliper bolts.
The electric impact gun was strong enough to remove a stubborn axel nut on a turbo porsche but not for this caliper bolts.