W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

Rear Camber arms are in. How low do I go?

Old Oct 16, 2009 | 02:21 AM
  #1  
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Rear Camber arms are in. How low do I go?

So since I have never actually been able to adjust the suspension, I just assumed I woud drop it and then have it aligned. But now, i am wondering what ride height and rake to set the ELM on before i go in for the alignment and what specifications to ask for? I'm scared to dump the car too low and then have the camber be positive if I raise it a bit. I'd like to find a happy medium, like maybe add 3 degrees or so of positive camber and go from there.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated as I am scheduled to do alignment on Saturday and it is EXPENSIVE!
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 06:33 PM
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BUMP!!

Nobody knows any advise? I think I am goint to have the two front ELM settings at 5 and the rear at 3. That is about 50% drop from stock.
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jangy
BUMP!!

Nobody knows any advise? I think I am goint to have the two front ELM settings at 5 and the rear at 3. That is about 50% drop from stock.
Jangy, you should get it as close to the stock ride height as possible. From there, all you have to do is adujst the arms on the alignment rack to get the car within factory specs.

Let me know when you are ready for the bad news...
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 07:26 PM
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Give it to me!! I am learning as I go!!

What do you mean by stock height? My wheels aren't taller, so my car sits even at stock height. I want to lower it on 18s and then adjust. Hope that makes sense.
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 07:47 PM
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probably what we discussed this am...
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 08:00 PM
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Be forewarned... it does not take much adjustment to make a huge difference in camber degree. Going from -3.0 to +3.0 happens in less than an inch so it will require alot of fine tuning, trial & error will definitely be involved.
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by AMS Performance
Be forewarned... it does not take much adjustment to make a huge difference in camber degree. Going from -3.0 to +3.0 happens in less than an inch so it will require alot of fine tuning, trial & error will definitely be involved.
Great point, and the alignment shop already quoted me 5 hours of work at $100 an hour.
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by chiromikey
probably what we discussed this am...

I hope that is all it is. The setup that is being test fitted are 18X9.5et37 with 295/35/18s.

Just to bring everyone up to speed, the concern would be that the top of the tire would rub against the body if we were to use our current setups (offsets) and start adjusting the camber by moving the top. All I can say is that it must be destiny that my HREs are 18X10et42. That is slightly not agressive enough until now!!

The point is very valid when considering this move. Make sure your wheels and offset will work with adjusted camber.
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jangy
Give it to me!! I am learning as I go!!

What do you mean by stock height? My wheels aren't taller, so my car sits even at stock height. I want to lower it on 18s and then adjust. Hope that makes sense.
That would be 'your' stock height, meaning the height that you most use in the car. When you go to adjust it just remember, +/-1mm ~ +/-0.3* of camber. Well at least it does on the W208. They have a book at the dealership that shows the degree of change for the front eccentric camber bolts, I believe this would be the same for the rear.

Do you have your spec sheet from the last alignment?

The bad news is having to take them off and build a jig (flat piece of metal and two bolts) to make sure both arms are at the exact same length so the car won't have a little lean to it.
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by jangy
I hope that is all it is. The setup that is being test fitted are 18X9.5et37 with 295/35/18s.

Just to bring everyone up to speed, the concern would be that the top of the tire would rub against the body if we were to use our current setups (offsets) and start adjusting the camber by moving the top. All I can say is that it must be destiny that my HREs are 18X10et42. That is slightly not agressive enough until now!!

The point is very valid when considering this move. Make sure your wheels and offset will work with adjusted camber.
I would have the aligment done with the stock wheels on, if possible.
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by P1 Performance
That would be 'your' stock height, meaning the height that you most use in the car.
Got it!! That makes perfect sense.
When you go to adjust it just remember, +/-1mm ~ +/-0.3* of camber. Well at least it does on the W208. They have a book at the dealership that shows the degree of change for the front eccentric camber bolts, I believe this would be the same for the rear.

Do you have your spec sheet from the last alignment?
Yes I do. Do I want to use the MB provided specs as my targets or do i want my own special ones? I typically like a slightly open toe for turn in, but have never played with suspension arms on this car.

The bad news is having to take them off and build a jig (flat piece of metal and two bolts) to make sure both arms are at the exact same length so the car won't have a little lean to it.
HAHA!! Sweet!! Then the news isn't so bad!! That goes back to knowing that it will cost a butt load do do the labor and that the labor is critical!! Clarence Brown in SD has a reputation of aligning custom hot rods, etc. and they have assured me that they know how to most efficiently go through the alignment process. they asked that the length be left as close to OEM as possible and just install them and bring it in.


P1: thanks for all your help. i wish i knew about your development before so we could have collaborated rather than becoming competitors. I'm just glad to finally see some movement in this area.
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by P1 Performance
I would have the aligment done with the stock wheels on, if possible.
Wait!! Why? Even if I plan to rarely run stock wheels? My overall rolling diameter is almost identical (+-0.5%) to OEM, so it may not matter but please let me know about the choice of wheels during this alignment.

Thanks as always
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by jangy
HAHA!! Sweet!! Then the news isn't so bad!! That goes back to knowing that it will cost a butt load do do the labor and that the labor is critical!! Clarence Brown in SD has a reputation of aligning custom hot rods, etc. and they have assured me that they know how to most efficiently go through the alignment process. they asked that the length be left as close to OEM as possible and just install them and bring it in.


P1: thanks for all your help. i wish i knew about your development before so we could have collaborated rather than becoming competitors. I'm just glad to finally see some movement in this area.
Jangy, I was just trying to help fill a need. Its sometimes easier for one person to do these types of projects than whole company or shop. Mostly it comes down to time and asking the right people the right questions.

You want the MB specs for the camber, everything else is up to you!!
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jangy
Wait!! Why? Even if I plan to rarely run stock wheels? My overall rolling diameter is almost identical (+-0.5%) to OEM, so it may not matter but please let me know about the choice of wheels during this alignment.

Thanks as always
I've found that having the stock wheels on when getting an alignment greatly increases to amount of adjustablity available by the computer. Then you put the bigger wheels on and tackle the next hurdle of interference, if any.
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by P1 Performance
Jangy, I was just trying to help fill a need. Its sometimes easier for one person to do these types of projects than whole company or shop. Mostly it comes down to time and asking the right people the right questions.
I agree 100%. I was just noting that you seem pretty cool and I would have liked to have collaborated some. I've learned quite a bit from you already

You want the MB specs for the camber, everything else is up to you!!
Got it, so any special settings would be to my "taste" etc. One thing I am worried about is that the OEM MB specifications are set to have the car slightly pull to the right and I want more of a neutral feel, so i will ask the shop about that. Other than that, I think i will just try to have the OEM specs matched with a lowered car. If that can happen, I will be moving in the right direction.

Thanks again, P1!!
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by P1 Performance
I've found that having the stock wheels on when getting an alignment greatly increases to amount of adjustablity available by the computer. Then you put the bigger wheels on and tackle the next hurdle of interference, if any.

Yes, I have seen many issues with the laser not seeing all the way accross on cars lowered with big rims.

My alignment won't be on a machine. it is done 100% by hand with tape, etc. Given that, do you still recommend OEM wheels? Should I take both and let them start on the OEM wheels and finish up on the hREs? In the end, i need the car to roll on HREs
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jangy
Yes, I have seen many issues with the laser not seeing all the way accross on cars lowered with big rims.

My alignment won't be on a machine. it is done 100% by hand with tape, etc. Given that, do you still recommend OEM wheels? Should I take both and let them start on the OEM wheels and finish up on the hREs? In the end, i need the car to roll on HREs
From what I've experianced, making the adjustments with the stock wheels yields a better finished product on lowered vehicles and since this is uncharted territory, the best thing to do is eliminate as many variables as possible.
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by P1 Performance
From what I've experianced, making the adjustments with the stock wheels yields a better finished product on lowered vehicles and since this is uncharted territory, the best thing to do is eliminate as many variables as possible.
Point taken. OEM wheels it is. I guess I can pay them a little more later to tweak it if needed. Am I about to start a relationship with my alignment shop? Man, that will be expensive.

Bro, seriously...thanks for the help and the attitude. If I can help you, let me know.
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jangy
Point taken. OEM wheels it is. I guess I can pay them a little more later to tweak it if needed. Am I about to start a relationship with my alignment shop? Man, that will be expensive.

Bro, seriously...thanks for the help and the attitude. If I can help you, let me know.
That's the thing about doing it with the stock wheel on, there shouldn't be much adjustment at all all for the bigger wheels. Your wheels, tires and offsets were spec'd to work with the suspension and inner fender in mind.

Anytime Jangy!!! That what we are all here for, to take what we've learned to help those around us, and girls...
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 09:43 PM
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so much work to lower a car...
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RacerX0911
so much work to lower a car...
Not just to lower.
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 09:48 PM
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which camber arm did you go with
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 09:48 PM
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I mean which company
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by hcetzneb
I mean which company
MBArts made them for me. They are not a sponsor here so I am trying to find one to host a Group Buy for the first 10 sets. If I can get a minimum of 5 people, he will charge $1200. After the GB, the pricing is out of my realm.
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