Meth Inj
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Meth Inj
Could you guys please help. What brand Meth and controller would you guys recommend for a CLS 55 amg and where to buy it? Thanks
Last edited by phantom1; 11-28-2009 at 10:51 PM.
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2006 Weistec 3.0L SC'd C55, 2006 MaxPsi PT6466 Turbo'd M3, 2019 Maserati GTS , 2020Alfa Quadrifoglio
I had a high-end CoolingMist with the adjustable controls. It gave me a good boost but I always had to re-fill the tank . It worked well for me but the tuner did not want to tune for it so I sold it. Still got a 5 Gal drum of it in my garage. One thing it does do is raise your octane and cool the charge temps. Never had any hydrolock issues as some people warned about. I would seriously think about buying another one. It's still ALOT safer than Nitrous and the methonal is much cheaper and lasts longer.
#4
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Not the best advise imo. Everyone knows what is tried and true. You need to think outside the box sometimes. Because it can lead to innovation and progress. Just my 2 cents. ![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Chuck,
I would look into labonte motorsports or aem. I have installed/used both with solid gains on multiple applications.
A supercharger conducts quite a bit of heat. The cooling effects of the methanol alone is worth it. Raising octane to a safe level especially when boost is increased is not only a safe investment but a wise one imo. I'm confident that a methanol kit will substantially increase power and lower IAT's on the 55K. I planned this mod for my car. Just don't have the time or the motivation to do it right now. I have a trick setup pm me for info about it.
Max-
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Chuck,
I would look into labonte motorsports or aem. I have installed/used both with solid gains on multiple applications.
![naughty](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif)
Max-
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I had a high-end CoolingMist with the adjustable controls. It gave me a good boost but I always had to re-fill the tank . It worked well for me but the tuner did not want to tune for it so I sold it. Still got a 5 Gal drum of it in my garage. One thing it does do is raise your octane and cool the charge temps. Never had any hydrolock issues as some people warned about. I would seriously think about buying another one. It's still ALOT safer than Nitrous and the methonal is much cheaper and lasts longer.
Last edited by phantom1; 11-28-2009 at 12:31 AM.
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Not the best advise imo. Everyone knows what is tried and true. You need to think outside the box sometimes. Because it can lead to innovation and progress. Just my 2 cents. ![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Chuck,
I would look into labonte motorsports or aem. I have installed/used both with solid gains on multiple applications.
A supercharger conducts quite a bit of heat. The cooling effects of the methanol alone is worth it. Raising octane to a safe level especially when boost is increased is not only a safe investment but a wise one imo. I'm confident that a methanol kit will substantially increase power and lower IAT's on the 55K. I planned this mod for my car. Just don't have the time or the motivation to do it right now. I have a trick setup pm me for info about it.
Max-
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Chuck,
I would look into labonte motorsports or aem. I have installed/used both with solid gains on multiple applications.
![naughty](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif)
Max-
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C55,SL55,C63
Meth injection can be a god send. It can also be your worse nightmare. For all the times it works great you will never forget the one time it does not.
Methanol is corrosive, It will eat up any non-synthetic rubber in its path and corrode aluminum. Not to mention it will breakdown the grease on your rear supercharger bearings. Causing them to look like they just got their brains blown out. Methanol is found in brake parts cleaner.
Now add that with some water and you got a combo for stripping grease, causing rust, and blowing your motor. All for cooler IATs and an octane boost?
There are alot of fast guys/gal on this forum and some real outside the box thinkers here.. But I dont think any of them are running Meth injection.
Now I dont take any offence to comments or want to disrespect anyone else's opinion. This is just mine, and I feel meth injection is a big risk over other very proven paths to more power.
#10
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Ah, gold ole' meth/H20 spray....there's a story
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]
I had very bad IAT's based on my SC system not having an intercooler or any room for an effecient one. So for a while it made the most sense based on $, time, and effectivness. Based on this I ran a single 375ml nozzle post blower for over a year without any problems. Snowperformance system, It ran off of the MAF 0-5V and was progressive based on airflow and not IAT. Made no extra power as timing was stock but I did dyno and track the car alot which showed absolutly no heat related power loss. IAT's would drop to ambient almost instantly.
A year later I purchased a coolingmist "smartinjection" which modify's the meth/H20 spray based on several inputs. My intent was to have a signal based on IAT and MAF. I also ran two nozzles pre and post blower with a solinoid to prevent engine vacuum syphoning.
It takes a little clinching but I have to admit that I'm still in favor of these systems and sum it up to myself not being as clever as I thought. Big time user error on the programing end caused me to reverse a couple settings when updating some files and input settings. Seems the motor had a steady drip or flow of fluid somehow at idle, couple cylinders must have filled up a bit, and boom!. I didn't make it 20 feet.....
[IMG]
![](http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k198/nitrogenbalance/blown43c.jpg)
[IMG]
![](http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k198/nitrogenbalance/blown43b.jpg)
[IMG]
![](http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k198/nitrogenbalance/blown43a.jpg)
I had very bad IAT's based on my SC system not having an intercooler or any room for an effecient one. So for a while it made the most sense based on $, time, and effectivness. Based on this I ran a single 375ml nozzle post blower for over a year without any problems. Snowperformance system, It ran off of the MAF 0-5V and was progressive based on airflow and not IAT. Made no extra power as timing was stock but I did dyno and track the car alot which showed absolutly no heat related power loss. IAT's would drop to ambient almost instantly.
A year later I purchased a coolingmist "smartinjection" which modify's the meth/H20 spray based on several inputs. My intent was to have a signal based on IAT and MAF. I also ran two nozzles pre and post blower with a solinoid to prevent engine vacuum syphoning.
It takes a little clinching but I have to admit that I'm still in favor of these systems and sum it up to myself not being as clever as I thought. Big time user error on the programing end caused me to reverse a couple settings when updating some files and input settings. Seems the motor had a steady drip or flow of fluid somehow at idle, couple cylinders must have filled up a bit, and boom!. I didn't make it 20 feet.....
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I have 100oct tune in my car right now. If I ever ran 91 or anything less then 100oct The motor would blow up. Now If the rule of thumb is meth will raise the octane to some place over 100 and you tune for it. What happens if you run out. How is your car going to be able to pull that timing out of the motor that fast? It wont. You will for sure detonate the motor and send a rod though the side of your engine block.
Meth injection can be a god send. It can also be your worse nightmare. For all the times it works great you will never forget the one time it does not.
Methanol is corrosive, It will eat up any non-synthetic rubber in its path and corrode aluminum. Not to mention it will breakdown the grease on your rear supercharger bearings. Causing them to look like they just got their brains blown out. Methanol is found in brake parts cleaner.
Now add that with some water and you got a combo for stripping grease, causing rust, and blowing your motor. All for cooler IATs and an octane boost?
There are alot of fast guys/gal on this forum and some real outside the box thinkers here.. But I dont think any of them are running Meth injection.
Now I dont take any offence to comments or want to disrespect anyone else's opinion. This is just mine, and I feel meth injection is a big risk over other very proven paths to more power.
Meth injection can be a god send. It can also be your worse nightmare. For all the times it works great you will never forget the one time it does not.
Methanol is corrosive, It will eat up any non-synthetic rubber in its path and corrode aluminum. Not to mention it will breakdown the grease on your rear supercharger bearings. Causing them to look like they just got their brains blown out. Methanol is found in brake parts cleaner.
Now add that with some water and you got a combo for stripping grease, causing rust, and blowing your motor. All for cooler IATs and an octane boost?
There are alot of fast guys/gal on this forum and some real outside the box thinkers here.. But I dont think any of them are running Meth injection.
Now I dont take any offence to comments or want to disrespect anyone else's opinion. This is just mine, and I feel meth injection is a big risk over other very proven paths to more power.
#12
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Ah, gold ole' meth/H20 spray....there's a story
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]
I had very bad IAT's based on my SC system not having an intercooler or any room for an effecient one. So for a while it made the most sense based on $, time, and effectivness. Based on this I ran a single 375ml nozzle post blower for over a year without any problems. Snowperformance system, It ran off of the MAF 0-5V and was progressive based on airflow and not IAT. Made no extra power as timing was stock but I did dyno and track the car alot which showed absolutly no heat related power loss. IAT's would drop to ambient almost instantly.
A year later I purchased a coolingmist "smartinjection" which modify's the meth/H20 spray based on several inputs. My intent was to have a signal based on IAT and MAF. I also ran two nozzles pre and post blower with a solinoid to prevent engine vacuum syphoning.
It takes a little clinching but I have to admit that I'm still in favor of these systems and sum it up to myself not being as clever as I thought. Big time user error on the programing end caused me to reverse a couple settings when updating some files and input settings. Seems the motor had a steady drip or flow of fluid somehow at idle, couple cylinders must have filled up a bit, and boom!. I didn't make it 20 feet.....
[IMG]
![](http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k198/nitrogenbalance/blown43c.jpg)
[IMG]
![](http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k198/nitrogenbalance/blown43b.jpg)
[IMG]
![](http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k198/nitrogenbalance/blown43a.jpg)
I had very bad IAT's based on my SC system not having an intercooler or any room for an effecient one. So for a while it made the most sense based on $, time, and effectivness. Based on this I ran a single 375ml nozzle post blower for over a year without any problems. Snowperformance system, It ran off of the MAF 0-5V and was progressive based on airflow and not IAT. Made no extra power as timing was stock but I did dyno and track the car alot which showed absolutly no heat related power loss. IAT's would drop to ambient almost instantly.
A year later I purchased a coolingmist "smartinjection" which modify's the meth/H20 spray based on several inputs. My intent was to have a signal based on IAT and MAF. I also ran two nozzles pre and post blower with a solinoid to prevent engine vacuum syphoning.
It takes a little clinching but I have to admit that I'm still in favor of these systems and sum it up to myself not being as clever as I thought. Big time user error on the programing end caused me to reverse a couple settings when updating some files and input settings. Seems the motor had a steady drip or flow of fluid somehow at idle, couple cylinders must have filled up a bit, and boom!. I didn't make it 20 feet.....
I hope it looks better now than in the pics.
![EEK!](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
#13
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I'm with hooleyboy on this one, but mainly because my E55 is my "comfort/cruising" car so I don't want to tear it up too much. I did use meth on my Evo and it was an absolute blast. You have to remember Evo have a lot more tuning option than MB. But if you really want to get into meth, get the best and make sure the pump is high pressure unit. With that said, Aquamist is the brand I trusted my vehicle with.
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I have a dsm, had a coolingmist kit with its own progressive controller, never quite got it dialed in, but there are lots of people that praise it.
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I would say that for how much these cars can cost if it fails, I would go another route. You can get systems that have failsafes that you could wire into a digital boost controller to open your wg up if the failsafe says it isn't pumping so you don't go boom, but that can be a bit of a wiring/plumbing nightmare.
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I'm with hooleyboy on this one, but mainly because my E55 is my "comfort/cruising" car so I don't want to tear it up too much. I did use meth on my Evo and it was an absolute blast. You have to remember Evo have a lot more tuning option than MB. But if you really want to get into meth, get the best and make sure the pump is high pressure unit. With that said, Aquamist is the brand I trusted my vehicle with.
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96 and 08 911 turbos
Turbo Buicks have used meth injection for ages. It works, but you need to be diligent about it. Most good systems have warning lights when the reservoir gets low.
Its a cheap and effective way to lower IATs and increase power, but I also found it not worth the trouble when my air to air intercooler worked so well.
Its a cheap and effective way to lower IATs and increase power, but I also found it not worth the trouble when my air to air intercooler worked so well.
#19
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Why f around with meth - just pump 100% water for cooling and helping out the cr*p IC...??
Meth / glycol is used to increase octane to prevent detonation... we don't really suffer from detonation we suffer from high IAT's (I know they are related but the car pulls timing and drops the S/C before the pinking starts) - so to get IAT's down you should just pump in water... no need for chemicals.
I am going to see if its worthwhile to fool around with a HFS6 system. I have contacted Aquamist and see what they say about a MAP controlled fuel/air ECU, and how bumping water vapour into the air will affect things.... I also think we should be injecting water after the S/C but before the I/C - avoids having to move the IAT gauge. Since its only water the core will not get any damage. Injecting ahead of the S/C impellers is asking for trouble. Firstly there si not enough heat upstream to vaporise the water (and absorb heat), and the dropslets can get squashed in between the S/C impellers... good night to the S/C. No real point injecting after the I/C as the temps are lower and you are now past the IAT sensor. Just after the S/C outlet, temps are at a max - get greater vaourisation and get the OEM IC to do its work in a temp range it can cope with... Happy days all round.
I just cannot see why this will not work - the only stumbling block is getting the ecu to play along.
Meth / glycol is used to increase octane to prevent detonation... we don't really suffer from detonation we suffer from high IAT's (I know they are related but the car pulls timing and drops the S/C before the pinking starts) - so to get IAT's down you should just pump in water... no need for chemicals.
I am going to see if its worthwhile to fool around with a HFS6 system. I have contacted Aquamist and see what they say about a MAP controlled fuel/air ECU, and how bumping water vapour into the air will affect things.... I also think we should be injecting water after the S/C but before the I/C - avoids having to move the IAT gauge. Since its only water the core will not get any damage. Injecting ahead of the S/C impellers is asking for trouble. Firstly there si not enough heat upstream to vaporise the water (and absorb heat), and the dropslets can get squashed in between the S/C impellers... good night to the S/C. No real point injecting after the I/C as the temps are lower and you are now past the IAT sensor. Just after the S/C outlet, temps are at a max - get greater vaourisation and get the OEM IC to do its work in a temp range it can cope with... Happy days all round.
I just cannot see why this will not work - the only stumbling block is getting the ecu to play along.
Last edited by stevebez; 11-29-2009 at 11:55 AM.
#20
Ah, gold ole' meth/H20 spray....there's a story
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]
I had very bad IAT's based on my SC system not having an intercooler or any room for an effecient one. So for a while it made the most sense based on $, time, and effectivness. Based on this I ran a single 375ml nozzle post blower for over a year without any problems. Snowperformance system, It ran off of the MAF 0-5V and was progressive based on airflow and not IAT. Made no extra power as timing was stock but I did dyno and track the car alot which showed absolutly no heat related power loss. IAT's would drop to ambient almost instantly.
A year later I purchased a coolingmist "smartinjection" which modify's the meth/H20 spray based on several inputs. My intent was to have a signal based on IAT and MAF. I also ran two nozzles pre and post blower with a solinoid to prevent engine vacuum syphoning.
It takes a little clinching but I have to admit that I'm still in favor of these systems and sum it up to myself not being as clever as I thought. Big time user error on the programing end caused me to reverse a couple settings when updating some files and input settings. Seems the motor had a steady drip or flow of fluid somehow at idle, couple cylinders must have filled up a bit, and boom!. I didn't make it 20 feet.....
[IMG]
![](http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k198/nitrogenbalance/blown43c.jpg)
[IMG]
![](http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k198/nitrogenbalance/blown43b.jpg)
[IMG]
![](http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k198/nitrogenbalance/blown43a.jpg)
I had very bad IAT's based on my SC system not having an intercooler or any room for an effecient one. So for a while it made the most sense based on $, time, and effectivness. Based on this I ran a single 375ml nozzle post blower for over a year without any problems. Snowperformance system, It ran off of the MAF 0-5V and was progressive based on airflow and not IAT. Made no extra power as timing was stock but I did dyno and track the car alot which showed absolutly no heat related power loss. IAT's would drop to ambient almost instantly.
A year later I purchased a coolingmist "smartinjection" which modify's the meth/H20 spray based on several inputs. My intent was to have a signal based on IAT and MAF. I also ran two nozzles pre and post blower with a solinoid to prevent engine vacuum syphoning.
It takes a little clinching but I have to admit that I'm still in favor of these systems and sum it up to myself not being as clever as I thought. Big time user error on the programing end caused me to reverse a couple settings when updating some files and input settings. Seems the motor had a steady drip or flow of fluid somehow at idle, couple cylinders must have filled up a bit, and boom!. I didn't make it 20 feet.....
lol was you not using the checkvalve that came with your kit?
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Why f around with meth - just pump 100% water for cooling and helping out the cr*p IC...??
Meth / glycol is used to increase octane to prevent detonation... we don't really suffer from detonation we suffer from high IAT's (I know they are related but the car pulls timing and drops the S/C before the pinking starts) - so to get IAT's down you should just pump in water... no need for chemicals.
I am going to see if its worthwhile to fool around with a HFS6 system. I have contacted Aquamist and see what they say about a MAP controlled fuel/air ECU, and how bumping water vapour into the air will affect things.... I also think we should be injecting water after the S/C but before the I/C - avoids having to move the IAT gauge. Since its only water the core will not get any damage. Injecting ahead of the S/C impellers is asking for trouble. Firstly there si not enough heat upstream to vaporise the water (and absorb heat), and the dropslets can get squashed in between the S/C impellers... good night to the S/C. No real point injecting after the I/C as the temps are lower and you are now past the IAT sensor. Just after the S/C outlet, temps are at a max - get greater vaourisation and get the OEM IC to do its work in a temp range it can cope with... Happy days all round.
I just cannot see why this will not work - the only stumbling block is getting the ecu to play along.
Meth / glycol is used to increase octane to prevent detonation... we don't really suffer from detonation we suffer from high IAT's (I know they are related but the car pulls timing and drops the S/C before the pinking starts) - so to get IAT's down you should just pump in water... no need for chemicals.
I am going to see if its worthwhile to fool around with a HFS6 system. I have contacted Aquamist and see what they say about a MAP controlled fuel/air ECU, and how bumping water vapour into the air will affect things.... I also think we should be injecting water after the S/C but before the I/C - avoids having to move the IAT gauge. Since its only water the core will not get any damage. Injecting ahead of the S/C impellers is asking for trouble. Firstly there si not enough heat upstream to vaporise the water (and absorb heat), and the dropslets can get squashed in between the S/C impellers... good night to the S/C. No real point injecting after the I/C as the temps are lower and you are now past the IAT sensor. Just after the S/C outlet, temps are at a max - get greater vaourisation and get the OEM IC to do its work in a temp range it can cope with... Happy days all round.
I just cannot see why this will not work - the only stumbling block is getting the ecu to play along.
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#24
Super Member
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
E55
Sub ambient IAT temps
max IAT temps 10 degrees over ambient at 130mph+
10 degrees more timing in 3rd( stock tune)
Potential for faliure? See above photos!!
Just keep it simple, Your whole system should make sense to you.
To answer you question, "Devils own"
#25
Super Member
It does a great job of chilling intake charge but Hooley did a good job of explaining some of the cons. One in particular that should be mentioned is how it "washes" down a cylinder of it's lubricant. Much like brake cleaner, the methanol strips away oils used to lubricate the cylinder walls and the top of the cylinder head. On engines with pistons using a high silicone content metal as found in many cast pistons these days, it tends to dry out the material, making it more brittle. Just something to think about before putting one of these systems on your $20,000+ AMG engine....