PERFORMANCE GAIN WITH COOLING SYSTEM IN TRUNK
#1
PERFORMANCE GAIN WITH COOLING SYSTEM IN TRUNK
How much HP/TQ as anyone who installed a rear trunk mount chiller sees?Also how much performance gain have you seen or feel?
I am in the process of installing an ACT SYSTEM and would like to see the performance gain achieved by anyone who has installed any type of REAR CHILLER BOX.
I am in the process of installing an ACT SYSTEM and would like to see the performance gain achieved by anyone who has installed any type of REAR CHILLER BOX.
#2
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How much HP/TQ as anyone who installed a rear trunk mount chiller sees?Also how much performance gain have you seen or feel?
I am in the process of installing an ACT SYSTEM and would like to see the performance gain achieved by anyone who has installed any type of REAR CHILLER BOX.
I am in the process of installing an ACT SYSTEM and would like to see the performance gain achieved by anyone who has installed any type of REAR CHILLER BOX.
#3
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Out of curiosity how did you quantify this gain?
Obviously a dyno was employed, but what type of lag in between did you have.
I am not trying to argue with your statement, just want to have a clearer understanding. My previous experience with forced induction and cooling upgrades is that they do not add hp, per se, but help control heat soak-thus avoiding the car pulling timing and losing power. A power saver, versus a power adder.
Does my experience hold true for the 55K engines, or is the reservoir a true power adder?
Thanks!
Obviously a dyno was employed, but what type of lag in between did you have.
I am not trying to argue with your statement, just want to have a clearer understanding. My previous experience with forced induction and cooling upgrades is that they do not add hp, per se, but help control heat soak-thus avoiding the car pulling timing and losing power. A power saver, versus a power adder.
Does my experience hold true for the 55K engines, or is the reservoir a true power adder?
Thanks!
#4
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^^ Just helps you preserve timing and keep Boost constant, the power is there it's just a matter of keeping it constant. If you throw a hot piece of Iron in 2 oz of water, it might end up warming up the water and making it hot, as opposed to throwing that same piece of iron in a 5 gallon reservoir it will barely see any temperature increase. It just helps dissipate heat faster and better.
To quantify the gains I did before and after dynos, without Ice and with Ice.
To quantify the gains I did before and after dynos, without Ice and with Ice.
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I have a 9 gallon tank in the trunk, and it did wonders for my car. I usually put in a 16lb bag of ice from Acme into it and that lasts me all night
I also have a compartment for dry ice, but I did not find that dry ice worked good to cool down the large volume of water in the tank around. Dry ice also melted very fast and it makes a buzzing sound when it melts in the compartment. It is also a PITA to handle since you need gloves and something to break it up. So yeah - dry ice compartment was a big waste. Iit is more functional to fill the icebox with ice and use that space as a Grey Goose bottle chiller
I also have a compartment for dry ice, but I did not find that dry ice worked good to cool down the large volume of water in the tank around. Dry ice also melted very fast and it makes a buzzing sound when it melts in the compartment. It is also a PITA to handle since you need gloves and something to break it up. So yeah - dry ice compartment was a big waste. Iit is more functional to fill the icebox with ice and use that space as a Grey Goose bottle chiller
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e55 w/LET TUNE Drinks: vodka STRAIGHT Wheels: 19" HRE 547r Mods:FF headers ASP Pulley
I have a 9 gallon tank in the trunk, and it did wonders for my car. I usually put in a 16lb bag of ice from Acme into it and that lasts me all night
I also have a compartment for dry ice, but I did not find that dry ice worked good to cool down the large volume of water in the tank around. Dry ice also melted very fast and it makes a buzzing sound when it melts in the compartment. It is also a PITA to handle since you need gloves and something to break it up. So yeah - dry ice compartment was a big waste. Iit is more functional to fill the icebox with ice and use that space as a Grey Goose bottle chiller
I also have a compartment for dry ice, but I did not find that dry ice worked good to cool down the large volume of water in the tank around. Dry ice also melted very fast and it makes a buzzing sound when it melts in the compartment. It is also a PITA to handle since you need gloves and something to break it up. So yeah - dry ice compartment was a big waste. Iit is more functional to fill the icebox with ice and use that space as a Grey Goose bottle chiller
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from Donny
donnybail@aol.com
Quality is awesome and the welds are flawless. Pricing can't be beat either, not to mention he made it to my exact specs
donnybail@aol.com
Quality is awesome and the welds are flawless. Pricing can't be beat either, not to mention he made it to my exact specs
#10
I love my ice reservoir just for the fact it lets me run decent numbers during summer. The gains during summer are going to be more substantial than winter. As the weather cools the gains aren't linear but the ice and extra capacity will still keep your IAT's in check. If I was to guess, during the hotter months I gained anywhere from .1-.2 and during the winter so far I've seen between .05-.1 which is quite substantial for my car.
If you plan on drag racing all season long I would highly recommend installing one. If you're looking for day to day street gains save your money, to me it wouldn't be worth it. The only way you're going reap the benefits of the rear reservoir is by stuffing ice in it's throat...JMHO.
If you plan on drag racing all season long I would highly recommend installing one. If you're looking for day to day street gains save your money, to me it wouldn't be worth it. The only way you're going reap the benefits of the rear reservoir is by stuffing ice in it's throat...JMHO.
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If you plan on drag racing all season long I would highly recommend installing one. If you're looking for day to day street gains save your money, to me it wouldn't be worth it. The only way you're going reap the benefits of the rear reservoir is by stuffing ice in it's throat...JMHO.
#12
Most people up to this point that have installed the rear reservoir are hard core track junkies. If I never planned on tracking my car I wouldn't do it, I would install the HE and pump and call it the day.
Mark, what kind of gains have you seen at the track? I remember we talked about it but I'm curious if you're seen the same results as myself.
Last edited by bassn_07; 12-24-2009 at 12:20 PM.
#13
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Thanks for all the great info guys!
I have definitely decided that cooling upgrades will be my first performance mods so this is helpful.
Do you guys think a smaller reservoir under the hood (with the ability to shove say a half gallon of ice water into it), combined with an upgraded pump and H/E will give any added benefits over just the pump/he for the occasional track day?
My goal is to break into the 11's.
Thanks.
I have definitely decided that cooling upgrades will be my first performance mods so this is helpful.
Do you guys think a smaller reservoir under the hood (with the ability to shove say a half gallon of ice water into it), combined with an upgraded pump and H/E will give any added benefits over just the pump/he for the occasional track day?
My goal is to break into the 11's.
Thanks.
Last edited by Worth the wait; 12-24-2009 at 12:19 PM.
#14
Thanks for all the great info guys!
I have definitely decided that cooling upgrades will be my first performance mods so this is helpful.
Do you guys think a smaller reservoir under the hood (with the ability to shove say a half gallon of ice water into it), combined with an upgraded pump and H/E will give any added benefits over just the pump/he for the occasional track day?
My goal is to break into the 11's.
Thanks.
I have definitely decided that cooling upgrades will be my first performance mods so this is helpful.
Do you guys think a smaller reservoir under the hood (with the ability to shove say a half gallon of ice water into it), combined with an upgraded pump and H/E will give any added benefits over just the pump/he for the occasional track day?
My goal is to break into the 11's.
Thanks.
BTW....taking care of cooling first is a very good idea . Most people don't do this but IMO it's the best first mod you could do. It should be about utilizing every single hp you have first than add on.
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A smaller reservoir under the hood would gain you zero results. On a given day I could go through 60 pounds of ice at a track event . There are plenty of guys running awesome times with just a upgraded HE and pump.
BTW....taking care of cooling first is a very good idea . Most people don't do this but IMO it's the best first mod you could do. It should be about utilizing every single hp you have first than add on.
BTW....taking care of cooling first is a very good idea . Most people don't do this but IMO it's the best first mod you could do. It should be about utilizing every single hp you have first than add on.
Because of large volum my ice melts much slower, I usually load in a 16lb bag into the tank it will last me all night.
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2005 E55, Renntech Pulley, ECU
Weather here in the S.F. Bay Area have been IDEAL for the E55 these last few weeks. Cold enough to get all the timing you'd want, warm enough to get warm tires hooked up to the road properly. It is scary how much faster the car feels now versus the hot summer months we had this past summer. I can only imagine what it is like for you E55'ers who live in places where it gets REALLY hot. High 40's to mid 50's and I've got more power than I ought to J/K, never enough power, just don't be an idiot.
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But I would not run a upgraded HE and upgraded pump without splitting the IC system.
Splitting the system really makes a significant difference. I ran my Code3 HE and CM30 for about 1 year without splitting the lines that join the engine coolant with the IC system.
This past summer I removed my air filtration assembly on the passenger side and outside the firewall of the engine bay. I placed a 60+ oz Volvo coolant reservoir, clamped to the engine firewall.
Ran a 3/4" line down to the IC line. The reservoir has a 5/8" return line mounted on the top. I ran another 5/8" house to my bleed nipple. The 5/8" moves hot water out of the IC core and the 3/4" fills back the system.
I data logged before and after and on the hottest days this past summer... the gains were there. Cruising and on hard runs.
However, after sharing my results with Shardul, its more clear to me that a faster pump is needed to move the water (specially on the high rpm pulls)
My next project will be the CM90 with 3/4" outlets.
If I was to quantify the gains from splitting the system alone it would be around 10F during cruising 70mph on a 90F degree day and 20F on a pull to 110+ mph on the same 95+F degree day. (worst case). This gains were already on top of any gains from the bigger HE and CM30 pump.
One good thing about putting the reservoir outside the firewall of the engine bay. Less heat and its sits pretty high for gravity to makes its magic.
On a cooler days.. power is consistent.. even more than before.
However my recovery still takes 30 to 40 seconds to recover from a 100mph+ pull. This is where the faster pump has been proven to bring the time down.
for those thinking about coolings mods.. ready the STICKYS posted about DIY projects. It will show you how to split the system.
Spend a few minutes making a list of items you need and visit your nearest Pick Ur Parts junk yard. I found my Volvo Reservoir for about $10.
Splitting the system really makes a significant difference. I ran my Code3 HE and CM30 for about 1 year without splitting the lines that join the engine coolant with the IC system.
This past summer I removed my air filtration assembly on the passenger side and outside the firewall of the engine bay. I placed a 60+ oz Volvo coolant reservoir, clamped to the engine firewall.
Ran a 3/4" line down to the IC line. The reservoir has a 5/8" return line mounted on the top. I ran another 5/8" house to my bleed nipple. The 5/8" moves hot water out of the IC core and the 3/4" fills back the system.
I data logged before and after and on the hottest days this past summer... the gains were there. Cruising and on hard runs.
However, after sharing my results with Shardul, its more clear to me that a faster pump is needed to move the water (specially on the high rpm pulls)
My next project will be the CM90 with 3/4" outlets.
If I was to quantify the gains from splitting the system alone it would be around 10F during cruising 70mph on a 90F degree day and 20F on a pull to 110+ mph on the same 95+F degree day. (worst case). This gains were already on top of any gains from the bigger HE and CM30 pump.
One good thing about putting the reservoir outside the firewall of the engine bay. Less heat and its sits pretty high for gravity to makes its magic.
On a cooler days.. power is consistent.. even more than before.
However my recovery still takes 30 to 40 seconds to recover from a 100mph+ pull. This is where the faster pump has been proven to bring the time down.
for those thinking about coolings mods.. ready the STICKYS posted about DIY projects. It will show you how to split the system.
Spend a few minutes making a list of items you need and visit your nearest Pick Ur Parts junk yard. I found my Volvo Reservoir for about $10.
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