W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

HOW TO: Transmission Flush

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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 11:50 AM
  #26  
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Thanks for the great writeup
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 11:59 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 06E55
Can anyone enlighten us as to how we are to ensure that we have the transmission fluid at the correct temperature when we are measuring the level of transmission fluid (for those of us that do NOT have SDS)...
I typically think of it as two levels...hot and cold. If you haven't driven the car and it's been sitting over night, it'll be on the cold (lower) mark. If you've been out for a drive, it'll be on the hot (upper) mark. As long as it falls between the degree marks, you should be good. I don't get concerned about it being dead-nuts on...but that's just me.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 08:01 AM
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Just did this last night and it was much easier than I thought it would be. For those about to do this, here are a few tips.

1) When I pried the clip out of the transmission fluid filler cap, I couldn't figure out how to get the rest of the clip out. I just used a small flathead screwdrive and pushed it through from top to bottom.

2) The drain plug on the oil pan is screwed in VERY tightly so I just did what kjlindgr did and removed the six torx screws holding the pan up (they need to be removed anyway) and drained it that way.

3) I used an old concrete trough as the base for the drain pan and lined it with plastic. When the oil pan was drained. I then lifted up on the plastic (to create a bag of sorts) and then poked a hole in the bag and let it drain into a bottle that I had that was marked in one litre markings up to 4 litres. I ended up with pretty close to 4 litres (I must admit, I made a little mess trying to be a smartass and thinking the pan would hold itself up without the screws.. it held about 5 seconds before she let go and I made a little mess, I had at least 3.5 litres in my bottle though). I then filled it with four litres of fluid.

4) I used the transmission cooling line that kjlindgr did in his post. I used the same marked bottle I did for the drain pan and had it setting on the ground and had the line empty directly in the bottle (the bottle was setting on a flat surface). I was in the car so I could not see this, but right at the 3 litre mark, instead of the fluid coming out at a nice and steady rate, my friend said it started gurgling and it ended up being exactly 3 litres both times). It seemed a tad longer than 10 seconds but I just was worried because I didn't want to screw my transmission...

5) I just did two flush/fill procedures using 3 litres. I ordered 12 litres just in case but I still have two litres for next time!

Now for a couple of questions... I purchased a transmission dipstick that is supposedly for my car (and looks very similar to the one shown in kjlindgr post). I couldn't get this to work. Always showed transmission fluid past the top of the black plastic. Even before I emptied any fluid... Afterward, since we used the tube to fill the transmission with fluid, we couldn't get a reliable measurement because of the amount of fluid in the line. Since we carefully measured what we took out (except for the very first part), I was happy with replacing with the exact same amount... Also, I was surprised at how clean my transmission fluid was. kjlindgr's fluid was definitely burnt and needing of replacing. Honestly, when I took off my pan and saw the color of the fluid, I debated about even doing the complete flush. Mine was still pretty red. Granted, it was a deeper red now, but no where close to as dirty/burnt as kjlindgr's was! This is with 41851 on the car. And the transmission fluid had NOT been changed previously, as the original black pin was on the transmission fluid cap. But, since I had the fluid, the time, the lift, and the help of a friend, I decided to go ahead and give it a shot.

I was going to replace the adapter plug (the thing on the front right [passenger's side] of the transmission that houses those wires) but I couldn't figure out how to do it. I got the very first black plastic cap off and the wires were exposed but I couldn't figure out how to get the wires out... For anyone that has done this, can you please let me know so I can do it the next time I am under my car (oil change and brake pads/rotors coming up in about 4,000 miles).

I also did my wiper blades and my serpentine belt (I replaced the supercharge belt when I did my oil change about 1,000 miles ago)...

For those of you that read my 211 AMG Service Sheet thread, I am still working on the document. I just haven't had much time to create the links. I may just upload the file and be done with it, as the files are clearly listed and easy to get to anyway...
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 08:05 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by lowprofile
(One more heads up) I would suggest replacing the electrical connector plug on the trans while you are there. I'll list the p/n later.
Can you give me info on how to do this?
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 03:17 PM
  #30  
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Pm sent.
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 11:03 AM
  #31  
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as a piece of mind, I recommend you testing your trans fluid for glycol content. with the trans cooler integrated with radiator coolant, you never know if there's any small leak. the 04+ should be fine with updated sealing, but you never know.

nice writeup!
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Old May 1, 2010 | 01:38 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 06E55
4) I used the transmission cooling line that kjlindgr did in his post.
Does anyone know if the fluid will be coming from the tranny or the radiator when I begin flushing it out. In other words, which side of the line do I connect the hose to? I'm glad I decided to do this. My fluid was dark as oil and the pan very sludgy.
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Old May 1, 2010 | 03:48 PM
  #33  
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It will come from the flexible line(tranny side). FYI You can slip a piece of 1/2" hose onto the end to direct the fluid into a container.
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Old May 1, 2010 | 03:55 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by lowprofile
It will come from the flexible line(tranny side). FYI You can slip a piece of 1/2" hose onto the end to direct the fluid into a container.
Hey, thanks alot for answering. I was kinda waiting before I experimented, which could have been a little messy. I'm off to finish the job...
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 04:28 PM
  #35  
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bump

Could anyone with the dipstick tool do me a favor and measure how long it is? I bought the wrong one for my car and its too long so I wanna cut it down. Thanks
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 04:55 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by .trunzx
bump

Could anyone with the dipstick tool do me a favor and measure how long it is? I bought the wrong one for my car and its too long so I wanna cut it down. Thanks
the lengh of the coil spring type wire does not matter it is the end tip that is rubber coated and has the marking on it that matters.
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 04:55 PM
  #37  
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The dipstick is made to bottom out against the trans pan. Sounds like you have the correct one.
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 04:57 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by .trunzx
bump

Could anyone with the dipstick tool do me a favor and measure how long it is? I bought the wrong one for my car and its too long so I wanna cut it down. Thanks

Remember, this is a TOOL...which means it's purpose is to NOT be left in the dipstick tube. I think they are purposely made long for this reason. The manual also makes reference to never leave it in the tube.
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 06:19 PM
  #39  
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The dipstick I have sticks out about a foot from the top. And I'm getting about half an inch over full. Should the transmission fluid be warm to get a reading?
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Old Jun 23, 2010 | 12:01 AM
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Again, the transmission (as well as engine) dipstick aren't meant to be left in the tube, nor have the handle even bottom out in the tube like your normal Chevy/Ford/Dodge/Honda/etc. does. The fact that it sticks out when all the way in isn't an issue.

The markings on the dipstick indicate the min/max fluid level at hot temperatures (80*C or 180*F) and cold temperatures (25*C or 77*F). Use the corresponding marks accordingly.
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 07:29 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by kjlindgr
Not a problem.

For those with a Mercedes FSM, I feel I should come clean and mention that kinda lied just a little before I get called out on it.

The FSM says that the first fill after the drain should be 5 liters. I mentioned only 4. The reason for this is because they never once mention how much you'll drain...yet give all these warnings about damage to the transmission by running too much or too little fluid. I'm sure those were long-term operational warnings, but I figured I'd play it safe and just add what I took out. Do what you'd like, 4 or 5 and you should probably be just fine. You aren't running it for long anyway (a matter of seconds) so I honestly don't think it matters. Just make sure that the level in the end falls within the marks on the dipstick based on the temperature.

I just did mine and I let it drip completely and I got exactly 5 bottles out including some in the filter
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 09:35 AM
  #42  
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Can we add this to the DIY section for easy reference?
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 10:26 AM
  #43  
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One critical item to mention when checking the transmission fluid level with the dipstick. The car needs to be running and in DRIVE. This means, chock the wheels, put the parking brake on, and leave it run. OR, get a friend and have them hold the brake down. I know this sounds dangerous, but it's really not that bad. When the car is off, the fluid drains out of the torque converter and will give you a false reading of the fluid level. The car needs to be running and in DRIVE for the level to read properly.

Be safe, be smart, and you won't have issues.
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 10:28 AM
  #44  
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Does anyone happen to know how many of each "clamping body" are required. I know there are six total. That is what EPC-net refers to them as anyway. You can see them in the 9th picture. They are what the screw fits into that holds the transmission pan to the rest of the transmission. In the picture, they don't look much different, but on EPC-net one looks much smaller (in length) than the other.
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 10:40 AM
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It was a while ago when I did mine, but I don't recall any of them being different. I don't recall needing to remember which one went where when reassembling...meaning, they were all the same.
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 03:50 PM
  #46  
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I just had this done this morning and went over my slip,it looks like they only used 4 liters of oil.Does that sound right or should I go back?

Car shifts fine but want to be sure its done right.
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by skratch77
I just had this done this morning and went over my slip,it looks like they only used 4 liters of oil.Does that sound right or should I go back?

Car shifts fine but want to be sure its done right.
They just did a drain and fill.
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 09:49 PM
  #48  
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I don't recall them being different either when I did it, but I seem to have a slight link around one of the "clamping bodies." I wasn't sure if possibly, the "clamping body" may be too long on that spot and needed changed to the smaller one. Since I have to take everything down, I figured I would just replace everything. It may also be the gasket did quite seal properly. Or it could be that it is coming from the adapter plug, as I believe it is on that side of the transmission pan...
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 08:13 PM
  #49  
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Has anybody tried to drain and fill with an oil extractor through the dipstick tube? I thought I might try doing that as a quick fix to see how dirty my oil is and replace what comes out through the dipstick tube. ??? I always change my motor oil with the extractor, but it's easy on the E55 with the oil filter up top. I am trying to avoid having to go under the car on jack stands as I don't have a lift.
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Old Oct 4, 2013 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by kjlindgr
One critical item to mention when checking the transmission fluid level with the dipstick. The car needs to be running and in DRIVE. This means, chock the wheels, put the parking brake on, and leave it run. OR, get a friend and have them hold the brake down. I know this sounds dangerous, but it's really not that bad. When the car is off, the fluid drains out of the torque converter and will give you a false reading of the fluid level. The car needs to be running and in DRIVE for the level to read properly.

Be safe, be smart, and you won't have issues.
I know it needs to be on and warmed up. I've never heard of a car needing to be in drive.

Can anyone else confirm this? Last step and my baby is back on the road after a week!
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