$$$ to reach 500 WHP
#26
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E63 P30, CL500 Sport
Look at those prices. If you have a tool set you can save a TON of money. The only parts I recommend having a professional install are the headers and the Pulley.
1. Pulley, 180mm. About $1100 installed.
2. Headers, LET Long TUbes ($2000 plus installl) or Kleeman Shorties with Cat/res deletes ($1500 plus install)
3. Heat Exchanger plus a Meziere Pump, dont buy the CM30. Make your own Split system with reservoir, ($700 installed)
4. Tune, $700.
Everyone will throw you a ton of prices. Every Dyno will read different numbers also. Pick one dyno and use that for your baseline and for every mod after that. If you don't want to do some of the work yourself, then you will spend about $10,000 easily. All said and done, $15,000.00 later, you should have about 560rwhp/620rwtq with a good tune.
ASP 180mm Pulley (newest model) = $900
82 mm TB = $2000
Chris's long-tube headers = $2500
Cooling mods: good size HE + good size rear reservoir + good aftermarket pump = at least $1000
Jeremy's custom tune = $1000 to $1500
A few exhaust mods (race cats, x-pipe, resonator, etc...) = $500
The pricing above is not concrete and all depends on where you get the parts and whether you can negotiate a better deal or not. But the above parts and tunes have been shown to accomplish high 10s to low 11s with ease...
By the way, the above pricing does not include installation and of course the most important mod to get you into the 10s: wheels and tires:
- CCW custom drag wheels + MT or Hoosiers drag radials.
I would say $7,000 to $9,000 is a fair estimate.
#27
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I love a challenge and I love to go against the grain. After my car runs 11.69 or better I will start to mod. I want to see how close I can get to the 10's without spending $7-9k. Can it be done we will have to wait and see
#28
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CLS55 & CL CK60
Look at those prices. If you have a tool set you can save a TON of money. The only parts I recommend having a professional install are the headers and the Pulley.
1. Pulley, 180mm. About $1100 installed.
2. Headers, LET Long TUbes ($2000 plus installl) or Kleeman Shorties with Cat/res deletes ($1500 plus install)
3. Heat Exchanger plus a Meziere Pump, dont buy the CM30. Make your own Split system with reservoir, ($700 installed)
4. Tune, $700.
Everyone will throw you a ton of prices. Every Dyno will read different numbers also. Pick one dyno and use that for your baseline and for every mod after that. If you don't want to do some of the work yourself, then you will spend about $10,000 easily. All said and done, $15,000.00 later, you should have about 560rwhp/620rwtq with a good tune.
Or I am just a loser who spent his money on all the wrong parts (Renntech, MBH, PTE, etc)
#29
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E63 P30, CL500 Sport
Keep in mind that you're likely half way there.... you spent about $1000 for rims + tires although on our cars I think your wheel/tire setup is not as optimal as Alan, MikesAmg, and Mikey's, so you may have to switch to the 16s setup and give it a shot. Then you're about to spend $2500 to $3000 for a good set of long-tube headers + $300 for possibly race cats and x-pipe and installation.
The above setup may net you 11.3 to 11.4, but the best way to start dipping into the 10s (or lower) is that violent extra push you get off the line from the 180 mm pulley. I think the 180 mm pulley would allow you to start cutting 1.5x 60' times, which hopefully gets you your 10s. But adding the pulley and a good (2 to 3 hour custom tune) is roughly another $2k.
The above maybe okay to dip into the 10s a couple of times, but if you want the car to run more consistently and reliably, many would suggest a minimal type of cooling mod: maybe Heat Exchanger + an upgraded pump. And if you want to really chase that top-end, you may have to add the 82 mm TB.
Of course, the above estimates do not even include a good differential or any additional intake mods
#30
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#31
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I think the OP's question was cost to reach 500WHP. We all know power means nothing if you cannot's translate it in to grip and forward acceleration(unless you are simply trying to make a very expensive smoke machine), but hat wasn't the question.
Earlier today a member posted dyno 470whp and 540wtq on a mustang dyno with just Headers, 168 pulley and a tune.
( https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...e-headers.html)
I spent $1650 for the same Headers and a VRP 175 pulley kit which would net closer to 490whp do to more boost. Tune is another $500 on top of that. I find it rediculous that people are willing to spend huge amounts of money just because its a "Mercedes". If you use your head, are patient, and can turn a wrench there is no reason 500whp should cost more the 3K with all supporting mods. If you want to go to Renntech and drop 10K to do the same, go right ahead...
Earlier today a member posted dyno 470whp and 540wtq on a mustang dyno with just Headers, 168 pulley and a tune.
( https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...e-headers.html)
I spent $1650 for the same Headers and a VRP 175 pulley kit which would net closer to 490whp do to more boost. Tune is another $500 on top of that. I find it rediculous that people are willing to spend huge amounts of money just because its a "Mercedes". If you use your head, are patient, and can turn a wrench there is no reason 500whp should cost more the 3K with all supporting mods. If you want to go to Renntech and drop 10K to do the same, go right ahead...
#32
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I chopped some of it but I agree with you. I've always said anyone can throw money at it to make it go faster but if people take the time to learn their car and how to keep it running correctly they may be surprised on how quick the car can be in stock form. Combine that with a ton of launching practice and some drag radials and you are on your way to quicker times. Some may disagree and that's cool but et's don't lie.
#33
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E63 P30, CL500 Sport
MT Drag Radials are $240 per tire ($480) without taxes, shipping, or installation? Did you get the rims for free? Please remember, the figures discussed above were for new parts not used. If you decide to go the used route, then of course the amount will be a fraction of the cost.... just like buying a used E55 versus new.
#34
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MT Drag Radials are $240 per tire ($480) without taxes, shipping, or installation? Did you get the rims for free? Please remember, the figures discussed above were for new parts not used. If you decide to go the used route, then of course the amount will be a fraction of the cost.... just like buying a used E55 versus new.
Last edited by Hammer Down; 04-27-2010 at 07:03 PM.
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E55 AMG
I think i have done well over $10k on Kleemann/Reentech/Floored products, its a bit sick actually, I don't even want to add it all up!
One thing I can honestly say is that I'm extremely happy with the car, in the end that's all that matters!
One thing I can honestly say is that I'm extremely happy with the car, in the end that's all that matters!
#36
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E63 P30, CL500 Sport
How about shipping, mounting, balancing, installation, etc... the cheapest OEM 17" Mercedes I found on e-bay was $250 and even then, it looked questionable
mccormackracing on ebay for $418 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/275-4...item53e0b91f72
Also keep in mind that even though your tire setup is good, it is not optimal. The setup that has been proven over and again will require more expensive rims and tires
Last edited by MB_Forever; 04-27-2010 at 07:12 PM.
#37
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Nice deal... but if they were one of those rare auctions/deals, then they would not be "easily" replicated for everyone
How about shipping, mounting, balancing, installation, etc... the cheapest OEM 17" Mercedes I found on e-bay was $250 and even then, it looked questionable
Per that link, $219 for each tire tire x 2 = $438 so around $450 installed. Rims were $100 + $30 shipping = $130 and you're closer to $600 but that's assuming one can easily get both rims for $100 brand new OEM rims
How about shipping, mounting, balancing, installation, etc... the cheapest OEM 17" Mercedes I found on e-bay was $250 and even then, it looked questionable
Per that link, $219 for each tire tire x 2 = $438 so around $450 installed. Rims were $100 + $30 shipping = $130 and you're closer to $600 but that's assuming one can easily get both rims for $100 brand new OEM rims
I bought my wheels back in Oct of last year, ok if you count all of that junk then it may have cost me another $100 shipping & mounting ok so $600
#38
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Nice deal... but if they were one of those rare auctions/deals, then they would not be "easily" replicated for everyone
How about shipping, mounting, balancing, installation, etc... the cheapest OEM 17" Mercedes I found on e-bay was $250 and even then, it looked questionable
Per that link, $219 for each tire tire x 2 = $438 so around $450 installed. Rims were $100 + $30 shipping = $130 and you're closer to $600 but that's assuming one can easily get both rims for $100 brand new OEM rims
Also keep in mind that even though your tire setup is good, it is not optimal. The setup that has been proven over and again will require more expensive rims and tires
How about shipping, mounting, balancing, installation, etc... the cheapest OEM 17" Mercedes I found on e-bay was $250 and even then, it looked questionable
Per that link, $219 for each tire tire x 2 = $438 so around $450 installed. Rims were $100 + $30 shipping = $130 and you're closer to $600 but that's assuming one can easily get both rims for $100 brand new OEM rims
Also keep in mind that even though your tire setup is good, it is not optimal. The setup that has been proven over and again will require more expensive rims and tires
#41
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E63 P30, CL500 Sport
hey that's what friends are for why buy them when i can rent them from Alan (he's the type of guy and you know this that will let you borrow his setup for a couple of passes) my next time out i'm gonna ask him if i can borrow his front & rear wheels and his 10lb battery and if i like the results i will buy my own set to get ready for the headers later on this year. I think the drag setup that I was quoted was something like 1500-1600. So lets see where I get if I spend $5k on headers & wheels and I do like what I hear about speedrivens TCU upgrade. I address the cars weaks spots, traction, breathing and shifting. So I could see $7k for me without even adding the famous pulley/tune combo. (against the grain) I will definitely keep a tab and once I am done I will let everyone know how much it cost me to get close to the 10's
#42
#43
hey that's what friends are for why buy them when i can rent them from Alan (he's the type of guy and you know this that will let you borrow his setup for a couple of passes) my next time out i'm gonna ask him if i can borrow his front & rear wheels and his 10lb battery and if i like the results i will buy my own set to get ready for the headers later on this year. I think the drag setup that I was quoted was something like 1500-1600. So lets see where I get if I spend $5k on headers & wheels and I do like what I hear about speedrivens TCU upgrade. I address the cars weaks spots, traction, breathing and shifting. So I could see $7k for me without even adding the famous pulley/tune combo. (against the grain) I will definitely keep a tab and once I am done I will let everyone know how much it cost me to get close to the 10's
You are more then welcome to borrow my light weight battery any time you wish. It's actually a 18 lb battery and it's time to get a new one. I'll probably be picking up a heavier duty one for the track due to the demands of the MB system. After that you are running out of options and it's almost time to start modding if you want faster times. I don't think any type of intake would help since the filters are already removed and the only other weight reduction you could do would be removing the seats.
I also wouldn't recommend long tube headers without a tune but it seems many have done it. I'm not sure why you wouldn't want to optimize your mods after spending several thousand dollars on aftermarket parts, if you do so. IMO a tune is what ties everything together...money well spent. You already know who I would recommend.....