Big Problem, 172mm Pulley install Disaster
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 238
Likes: 6
From: Richmond, VA
2004 E55 - 2010 GL450 - 2011 GL550
Big Problem, 172mm Pulley install Disaster
I was installing my new 172mm pulley kit yesterday when I found out the bolt must be torqued to the entire 90 degrees. I took it out on a quick drive and the harmonic balancer bolt cam loose and sheared off the crankshaft key way.
Now my question is has anyone fixed the key way without taking everything apart? Thanks for the help!!!
Worst comes worst, I will take the front cover off and do it by the book.
Now my question is has anyone fixed the key way without taking everything apart? Thanks for the help!!!
Worst comes worst, I will take the front cover off and do it by the book.
#3
The front cover will need to come off as a minimum. The key way goes slightly beyound that and then you have to pull the seals from the crankshaft. What you will find the biggest trouble is that the key way typically melts and makes a knub on the crankshaft and then it is hard to "shave" it off and not messs up the crank balance. In the end, I needed a bottom end rebuild that scratched the cylinder and made for a new motor...
#5
same thing happen to be and I didnt the same thing as jangy I had to get a new engine because usually the crank shaft tip will fuse to the crank shaft. Then some times what looks to be a small problem might trickle down to a lot bigger internal problems .
#7
Sorry to hear about the failure. I had an indie shop do my pulley and had the bolt back out after a couple of weeks. Their insurance covered the lost which ultimately meant a new engine for me.
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#8
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,825
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From: Southern California
E55 w/ goods, Z32 Project underway
Wow, that really does suck. I'm sure a quality engine shop can repair the crank, has anyone ever looked into that option instead on an entire motor?
#9
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Salt Lake City (but not Morm)
2003 E55 & 2014 GL550
Gosh I always was worried when my tech would put a massive breaker bar on that crank bolt for tightening. Always over torqued it quite a bit, feel like hugging him now.
#11
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Spring/Houston, TX
CLS 55 AMG, FX45, F-350, Top Secret Widebody Supra (Sold) and other vehicles on another Planet
benztech, sorry for the frustration you're having to go through. Hopefully there is a lower cost solution.
Last edited by cmusngi; 09-06-2010 at 12:05 AM.
#13
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From: Southern California
E55 w/ goods, Z32 Project underway
#16
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From: Jacksonville, Florida
2006 E55 AMG --old cars -- E39 M5, 2.7tt Audi S4, E36 M3 **Ducati 996, 748
my friend had similar outcome -- he also messed up the simple install -- do your research and its easy 1-2-3 ... or a simple procedure turns into a nightmare. I'll cross my fingers for you --dont forget to use a new crankbolt when you reassemble.
oh yeah - my friend did not buy a new engine -- some how they beat the crap out of the pulley and got it off -- Now he has a 180mm and everything is running sweet--
oh yeah - my friend did not buy a new engine -- some how they beat the crap out of the pulley and got it off -- Now he has a 180mm and everything is running sweet--
#17
This is the reason I will not be putting a pulley on my car ever!!! Why risk blowing your motor up over a few hp??? Maybe I do not have ban$ like you guys, but damn that is hella lot of money.
#19
It is always a risk modifying your engine which was built by the factory to run optimally for a long life. Proof in point, many people are saying their engines are toast even though this is supposed to be "simple."
#20
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 238
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From: Richmond, VA
2004 E55 - 2010 GL450 - 2011 GL550
Well, first of all I didn't drive it far at all only 1/4 mile. I got the pulley off so all I need to start tomorrow is getting the keyway out. They keyway is replaceable separately, it's just a hassle to take the front cover off. I was hoping I could figure out a way to replaced the key without taking the front cover off but I don't think it's possible. The install was all my fault, It has nothing to to do with the part!
#21
I am sorry to hear about the carnage and it really sounds like the motor has to come out. Tough to do anything with it sitting in the car.
It would be helpful to see how bad the key way has been damaged. I have seen many key ways repaired by welding in the valley on the crank snout where the key way sits and using an oversized woodruff key that was filed to be a perfect in the crack snout.
Here are some pics to get my point across:
Damage to crankshaft snout and key way:
Damaged woodruff key:
Cleaning up the crank shaft snout and getting ready to fill the key way with weld:
Getting there and almost done:
I am very confident working on my car but know my limits which is why I trusted Kleeman to install my pulley. They take their time for the removal and install, and always use a new factory crank pulley bolt and torque to over 200ft.lbs (if I remember correctly).
I wish you the best of luck with the repair. I feel your pain.
It would be helpful to see how bad the key way has been damaged. I have seen many key ways repaired by welding in the valley on the crank snout where the key way sits and using an oversized woodruff key that was filed to be a perfect in the crack snout.
Here are some pics to get my point across:
Damage to crankshaft snout and key way:
Damaged woodruff key:
Cleaning up the crank shaft snout and getting ready to fill the key way with weld:
Getting there and almost done:
I am very confident working on my car but know my limits which is why I trusted Kleeman to install my pulley. They take their time for the removal and install, and always use a new factory crank pulley bolt and torque to over 200ft.lbs (if I remember correctly).
I wish you the best of luck with the repair. I feel your pain.
#24
The indie shops insurance covered the damage. I had it towed to Motorwerks in Houston after the failure, the insurance assesor came out and said the failure was due to the bolt backing out (read not correctly torqued) and they covered the entire cost of a replacement motor which was from an S55 with only 7000 miles on the engine, converting the oil pan etc. from the S55 to the E55 double sump. Total cost was around $17000 if I remember correctly.