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DIY M156 Spark Plugs
#1
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2007 E63 w/P30 and Eurotech CF Diffuser
DIY M156 Spark Plugs
So here goes my shot at a DIY for replacing M156 engine spark plugs.
As you saw in my thread posted last night https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-insanity.html
I had dis-assembled the intakes and air boxes to add a reflective tape used in Indy and F1 cars for reflecting heat away from the intake air. Besides trying to reduce intake air temp, it looked cool.
So here we are in the AM with all the parts on the side.
The top of the engine is easy to access. First I loosened up the wires to the coils on the top of each spark plug. You should be able to pinch the connector to un-clip it, but I found just using a screw driver to be easiest.
The torx screws holding on the coils were lightly hand tight and easy to remove. However, the one closest to the fire wall on the left side had limited clearance. Took a mix of sockets and adapters to loosen and replace this one. That is the fuel line.
I did not bother to buy the appropriate spark plug socket since I had a deep 14mm socket. However, to remove the spark plug once completely loose, I just stuck the spark plug boot/coil in there and captured it. This happens to be a picture of a ne wplug ready to go in.
As you saw in my thread posted last night https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-insanity.html
I had dis-assembled the intakes and air boxes to add a reflective tape used in Indy and F1 cars for reflecting heat away from the intake air. Besides trying to reduce intake air temp, it looked cool.
So here we are in the AM with all the parts on the side.
The top of the engine is easy to access. First I loosened up the wires to the coils on the top of each spark plug. You should be able to pinch the connector to un-clip it, but I found just using a screw driver to be easiest.
The torx screws holding on the coils were lightly hand tight and easy to remove. However, the one closest to the fire wall on the left side had limited clearance. Took a mix of sockets and adapters to loosen and replace this one. That is the fuel line.
I did not bother to buy the appropriate spark plug socket since I had a deep 14mm socket. However, to remove the spark plug once completely loose, I just stuck the spark plug boot/coil in there and captured it. This happens to be a picture of a ne wplug ready to go in.
#2
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2007 E63 w/P30 and Eurotech CF Diffuser
Next, I would clean out the spark plug seat with a WD-40 soaked paper towel attached to a heavy wire. I would push it in and rotate it to clean the seat. You can see the debrise here.
I blew out anything else with an air hose. All nice and shiny. The flash on the camera had a neat effect.
Next, I got a new plug and transferred the dielectric grease from one to the other. Here is an old and new plug.
Because I did not have the right spark plug socket, just as I used the boot to remove the old one, I used the boot for the new one. Just insert and make a couple turns to engage the threads. After that I went in with my 14mm socket. It was easy to feel the washer crush and the plug firmly seat. Remember, this is aluminum!!!
After that, just put the torx screws back hand tight (lightly, you will be able to tell how tight from how easy they came off). Now repeat 7 more times.
I blew out anything else with an air hose. All nice and shiny. The flash on the camera had a neat effect.
Next, I got a new plug and transferred the dielectric grease from one to the other. Here is an old and new plug.
Because I did not have the right spark plug socket, just as I used the boot to remove the old one, I used the boot for the new one. Just insert and make a couple turns to engage the threads. After that I went in with my 14mm socket. It was easy to feel the washer crush and the plug firmly seat. Remember, this is aluminum!!!
After that, just put the torx screws back hand tight (lightly, you will be able to tell how tight from how easy they came off). Now repeat 7 more times.
#3
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Next, I re-assembled the intake. This is a picture of the Y tube where it mounts to the intake manifold. I cleaned it up, treated with 303, and slide it right on. It just clips on with those 2 big tabs.
Next put on the foam rubber spacers/insulators
Then the lower halves of the air boxes and the new filters. These just clip into place at 3 points. One big spring in the center. See the 3 points here.
So now we are at this point
Next put on the foam rubber spacers/insulators
Then the lower halves of the air boxes and the new filters. These just clip into place at 3 points. One big spring in the center. See the 3 points here.
So now we are at this point
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Next, you need to put on the top of the air boxes that have the MAF sensors. I wiped on some silicon spray so they were easier to insert into the Y pipe. Make sure the air filters are all correctly in place and then screw in the 5 torx screws. Then tighten the large hose clamps between the Y pipe and the upper air boxes (which I just realized, I forgot to do!!!!). Then re-attach the air tube leading from the front grill to the air box intakes and you are here.
After this I changed the oil. Rolled out into the sun it looked like this.
Lastly, a note about the old plugs. The front right plug for some odd reason had new oil on the hex nut. None of the others were like this and I have to assume it happened in production. When you have a real leak from the valve cover there is usually more oil and it is used. All the plugs were between 0.039 and 0.041 gap, essentially zero wear. Makes me think I should have just cleaned them and re-used. They are on my shelf for "in case".
That's it, I hope some of you find it useful.
I should note that new plug, new air filters, new oil makes a real performance difference on a 60kmile engine.
After this I changed the oil. Rolled out into the sun it looked like this.
Lastly, a note about the old plugs. The front right plug for some odd reason had new oil on the hex nut. None of the others were like this and I have to assume it happened in production. When you have a real leak from the valve cover there is usually more oil and it is used. All the plugs were between 0.039 and 0.041 gap, essentially zero wear. Makes me think I should have just cleaned them and re-used. They are on my shelf for "in case".
That's it, I hope some of you find it useful.
I should note that new plug, new air filters, new oil makes a real performance difference on a 60kmile engine.
Last edited by Jon2007E63P30; 10-04-2010 at 11:28 AM.
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#10
Beautiful write up and even hotter car
The only thing I would be cautious about is the paper towel/WD-40 cleaning idea. You may want to use a little WD-40 while the old spark plug is still installed, just a little bit to loosen the debris, then blow it out with an air compressor at a healthy PSI. Doing it without a spark plug installed makes me very nervous as there is a portion of debris that could be forced down into the cylinder while you are attempting to clean it. Maybe this is what you did and I misunderstood. Just hate any chance of anything getting inside a $30,000+ engine
Regards
The only thing I would be cautious about is the paper towel/WD-40 cleaning idea. You may want to use a little WD-40 while the old spark plug is still installed, just a little bit to loosen the debris, then blow it out with an air compressor at a healthy PSI. Doing it without a spark plug installed makes me very nervous as there is a portion of debris that could be forced down into the cylinder while you are attempting to clean it. Maybe this is what you did and I misunderstood. Just hate any chance of anything getting inside a $30,000+ engine
Regards
#12
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2007 E63 w/P30 and Eurotech CF Diffuser
Inside the area protected by the boot, it is clean as can be.
#13
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Great write up, my indy told me that sometimes these plugs don't want to come out, after many years, so don't wait until the 100K mark. What was the torque setting for tightening these plugs down. And did you use anti-seize compound on the plugs. This is straight forward, so when it comes time, I will remember your write up thank you.
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I still have them. I need to go out and buy the re-oiling kit.
Yes, I was lazy.
Yuille36, the change interval for the plugs is 60k or 5 years. Not 100k. The torque setting is 15-18.5ft-lb. You should be able to find it in your owners manual, page 488 (2007 E)
Yes, I was lazy.
Yuille36, the change interval for the plugs is 60k or 5 years. Not 100k. The torque setting is 15-18.5ft-lb. You should be able to find it in your owners manual, page 488 (2007 E)
Last edited by Jon2007E63P30; 08-18-2011 at 08:46 PM.
#19
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Planning to undertake this week, many thanks for the writeup! One question, you mentioned a performance increase after new plugs, filters and oil change...Hypothetically, if the existing plugs are still good, is there a performance increase to be had simply by installing new ones? I never thought of it as anything more than a spark as long as the gap is right, but I realize I'm showing my ignorance in admitting that. Did you apply any anti-seize on the new plugs?
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Planning to undertake this week, many thanks for the writeup! One question, you mentioned a performance increase after new plugs, filters and oil change...Hypothetically, if the existing plugs are still good, is there a performance increase to be had simply by installing new ones? I never thought of it as anything more than a spark as long as the gap is right, but I realize I'm showing my ignorance in admitting that. Did you apply any anti-seize on the new plugs?
No, I did not use anti-seize. Given my if it was a garage queen, then I might have done that.
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Damn, never mentioned the plug part numbers.
Directly from the owners manual under "Technical Data" "Electrical System"
NGK ILZKAR7A10
Quick google shopping shows a place for $9.35, but sure there are many others.
Directly from the owners manual under "Technical Data" "Electrical System"
NGK ILZKAR7A10
NGK’s ILZKAR7A10 iridium spark plug has been chosen for OE fitment to the 365kW, 6.3-litre V8 power unit developed by AMG for use in high-performance derivatives of Mercedes models. In this case, the main requirement was for the slimmest possible spark plug with sufficient performance, in order to leave as much space as possible in the cylinder heads for both valves and coolant passages. To satisfy this need, NGK developed this new plug with a 12mm thread, but a 14mm hexagon and a slimmer ceramic insulator. The length remains 26.5mm.
Last edited by Jon2007E63P30; 07-19-2012 at 12:11 AM.