ELITE_KOV

I've read some threads about some people not realizing their IC pump has failed. Is this true?

I would have thought you'd lose quite a bit of power if the IC pump fails, not to mention get a check engine light etc.



What's the best to tell if your IC pump has failed? Thanks!

AKnight55

It can be tough, but i really noticed it at the track.. With a bad IC pump my car ran 105-106.. When i got the johnson pump my traps went to 112-113... Driving around town, i couldnt tell, but at the track it will be fquite obvious..

chiromikey

most of them didn't fail completely so unless you did any prolonged or back to back runs you may not notice.

Bramage

Get on the freeway / highway. Do 3 or more wide open runs... If the Pump is bad, you wont get past #3 without the answer. When the SC shuts down, the car is not fast.. as all

shardul

iTrader: (1)

people blame this on the pump over and over again. the stock pump is just not fast enough to circulate the coolant to cool the h/e so when the IATS spike to past 198 F this causes the s/c clutch not to engage. At this point you stock pump is still runing but it will take a while to circulate and cool the fluid.
if your stock pump is bad or not running you will not even get one WOT run.

cal1

The pump can be flow tested to see if it produces within spec. No CEL on an under producing or dead IC pump.

chiromikey

although the i/c system is inadequate, if the pump is working properly it definitely will circulate enough coolant to keep the s/c from shutting down. i've watched e55's with stock cooling systems hotlap in 100f temps and never have their s/c shut down. the oem pump is a known problem and has been updated by mb because of it.

the failure isn't like a light switch turning off/on so many stock pumps don't fail completely...they weaken or fail intermittently to the point that you can get a few wot runs before the s/c quits.

Kleeman55Rob

i noticed my pump was failing when i was slowing down big time at the track, checked my IATs and they were over 150.

Luke_M

The best way is with a datalogger. You will notice the IAT's won't come down after going WOT a time or two or they fall extremely slowly.

If you're datalogging you'll notice that after the car fully warms up and then sits for at least 15 mintues or so the IAT's will be about the same as the coolant but won't come down much once you get moving. I guess everything in the engine bay equalized in temp after sitting for a short while but because the water in the intercooler isn't moving it does nothing to cool the incoming air. If they do come down it's very little and not down to the normal 30degrees or so over ambient.

If you don't have a datalogger an easy test like someone said is to hit the throttle from 0-20mph up to 80-100 or more, 3 times in a row. When mine was dead (or dying) I would have nothing the 3rd time.

kustom2k1

Pump on my car wasn't operational from date of purchase, a single full throttle run of more than 15 sec and the car simply fell on its face. Trust me you'll notice when the car has a bad IC pump.

mikey33

You know I never really found out if mine was bad or not after lots of testing and driving, but I went ahead and just changed it anyways to a meziere. My paranoia also could have been blamed on the heat too, and the loss of power that is associated; chiromikey and mbh talked a good amount about this in another thread.

ELITE_KOV

My car is an 06, so I wonder if mine was updated by MB.


Also, today and I drove around to test the pump. It was a mild day, around high 60s/low 70s. I did a few WOT runs from 10-100 or so, a couple times. Car pulls just as strong each time.

I might be good then ... I just want to be sure everything is at optimal and I'm getting every bit of power. Car definitely doesn't feel like there's anything wrong, pulls hard as hell no matter what gear/mph.



I'm getting a dyno done on Monday, hopefully that will tell ... btw, what kind of stock numbers are you guys pulling?

chiromikey

sounds like you don't need to worry about the pump...at least not at this time.

stock numbers will range from 380-425rwhp depending on the dyno and/or operator.

ELITE_KOV

Thanks...any idea on torque numbers?

I have the factory MB warranty until March 2011, not sure at this point if I want to spend the dough to get an extended MB warranty or start modding, haha.

I'm inclined to mod, but with my luck, things will start breaking if I do and I'll be without warranty. Sounds like you're well modded, any issues since beginning your upgrades? I'm leaning towards a K3 setup with upgraded cooling parts.

Bramage

These are Torque monsters, so stock, you will see over 400+

They seem to bounce around on different dynos. Look at dragtime dot com.. shows a bunch of dyno charts from the maniacs on here

chiromikey

you should see approx 50 more tq than hp but that varies with each car.

i've had k4 or higher for 100k of my 135k total miles with zero problems...unless you count tuner induced bs (not kleemann). you can't go wrong with anything kleemann so i'm sure you'll be very happy.