This weekend, the weather was superb, 65 degrees on Sunday so I decided to bath the beast. I used Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II which is always such a pleasure, loll.

However I followed that up with this product (TOTAL AUTO WASH P21S):

http://www.detailedimage.com/P21S-M1...000-ml-Kit-S1/

It litereally took the dirt out of the paint and any staining on the skirts and rear bumper from the exhaust sute etc.

It is so easy to use to, just spray it on after you rinse off the washing suds, use your wool glove to massage it into to a soapy finish, and rinse.

Cars looks like it has been buffed it is so shiny. Here are a few crappy cell phone pics from this am:

 

http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemica...-P192/Reviews/

I've got a bottle of this sitting at home. Extreme EZ-Creme Glaze with Acrylic Shine II.

Heard great things about this, when paired with this:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Blackfi...P205/16-oz-S1/

Friend of mine advised me to pick em up, it's almost time for a decent detail.

 

P21S makes nice stuff. I use their pure carnauba wax. Goes on and off easy, and looks great. I used their other products on my bike and loved them too.
Looks great.

 

Both good products, if you use it them appropriately. Depending on how you diluted the P21s you may have stripped all the protection along with the dirt. I hope you followed up with a good LSP. The blackfire mentioned is not bad. It really pops when layered with a carnuba. But 99% of the look comes from the prep. Alot of the waxes and sealants contain fillers that merely hide the holograms,scratches, swirls etc. You will notice after a few washes they will re appear once the protection wears off.

I was wondering what your full steps are when detailing your vehicles?

 

Yip, ended with Mezerno Polish.

 

Hey, menzerna makes a great line of products. But a polish is not the way to finish. A polish actually removes microlayers of paint to remove imperfections , and looks amazing. That is part of the prep however the paint will now be exposed to the elements. You should always finish with some sort of wax or sealant. I prefer a synthetic polymer topped with a carnuba. I would suggest polishing the car only twice a year if that. Depending on what you put the car through. Avoid carwashes, including touchless and especially brushed. I was once researching to open a coin operated car wash along with drive thru wash and a pro detailer has told me the same, The detergents used in these car washes are pretty much carpet cleaner and horrible for your paint. It strips all protection.


Annual/semi annual routine.
1. Wash and Dry - To remove loose dirt and contaminants. TWO BUCKETS!! Use in line water filter or R/O (reverse osmosis) deionized water system to prevent hard water marks.
When Drying avoid contact with paint if possible. Use a blower/dryer or extremely clean and soft high quality mircofiber cloth(same with washing).
2. Surface Prep - Evaluate your paint to determine if there are above
surface contaminants or surface defects (put your hand in a sandwich bag and run over the paint gently to feel for grityness or if it catches) scratches, oxidation, stains, can sometimes be seen better under halogen lighting or a sungun.
Use clay and lube, such as a quick detailer to remove surface contaminets
Use proper paint polish/compound for scratch removal.
3. Polish -To remove microscopic layer of clearcoat(This removes swirls,scratches, holograms and other defects) Must be done with machine. Polishes that claim results by hand are just hiding the defects in your paint with oils and not removing them, this will show after a few washes
4. Wax or Seal To provide a protective barrier and add that last touch. Synthetic LSP's tend to last longer than Carnuba Waxes. However several can be used in combination for a greater outcome.
5. Maintain in between to remove light surface contaminants frequently and maintain that just detailed appearancea with a quick detailer.

Inbetween Anuual and/or Semi-annual routine.

Wash with two bucket method. Make sure to use a car wash soap that does not strip all your protection. (Adjust dillution to assure)
Use only high quality Wash mit. Sheep Skin or Schmit.
Top up with your favourite Wax or sealant.( I have a few suggestions after spending years and tons of money on products)
Keep up in between with a quick detailer.

In the winter months there are great products such as ONR (optimum no rinse) which is a great wash for indoors/cold weather. Read up on it.

Detailedimage is fantastic and carry some great products!

If you would like any suggestions let me know I'd be more then happy to help. I love sharing knowledge and having somone appreciate the outcome!

 

Thanks for that write up man although I know how to detail, I am not a newb I have not had time to seal and wax yet. Winter sun is not going to do much until I finish her up this week.

 

What do you guys do to clean the chrome trim, glass, and exhaust tips? Never seem to get mine clean enough

 

How do you guys clean over clear film on the front of the car? treat it exactly as a painted surface?

 

Depending on duration of time/weather/mileage, you can get away with that with silver... try that with black, and it'd be swirl-city. Ideally you would wax/seal the paint right after polishing, or at least garage the car until you could.

Just sayin'...

 

I love the use of a steamers with microfiber attachment on the glass. If thats not available to you, any good glass specific cleaner will do.
Try and avoid amonia based products, as they are not only harmful to some surfaces on your car(not glass), but to your health.

There are great products out there, that area made for glass and chrome. The best method I find is to acutally buff/polish the glass and chrome with a machine, but alot of products work well enough by hand.

The polishing really helps with those stubborn water etching and hard water marks. Microfiber is your friend. There are glass specific micorfiber clothes and glass clothes. Find your product of choice and polish away. Look for things along the lines of Sonus Glass and chrome polish.

With the chrome follow simmilar to above, but make sure the product specifies chrome friendly. I find that clay really helps with the muffler tips(wheels) and sometimes when you get really bad carbon build up wet sand with really fine grit paper(you can do this on discolored lights as well(not for newb's).

Belive it or not the inside of our Exhaust tips were once silver. I have cleaned them via wet sand back to silver before and they turned black eventually pretty quick(so I wouldnt bother).

As for the chrome trim around the vehicle , it is plastic and I have tried several methods to correct but it is very difficult once it gets scratched up, just clean your best and live with it. Real Chrome on metal is easier to work with.

 

With Clear film, if you are reffering to something like a Clear Bra. The best thing to do is wash with a car wash soap, that is not too concentrated. Removing all dirt and grit and gently scrub removing the dirt and grit with a soft micofiber cloth or wash mitt.

Once cleaned and free of debree, you may use your choice of urethane free non-abrasive car wax. This will help blend the Bra/film in better and provide a small layer of protection for it.

Once you are done, follow around the edges with a microfiber cloth to remove any wax/buildup stuck or remaining.

Try and let me know.

 

+1 C32AMG is pretty much on the money. Actually, regardless of the time/weather/mileage you would want to immediately wax or seal your paint after polishing, you are leaving your paint exposed , even if not driving.

The accumalation of dust or blown debree will require you to at the least wash your car again and if you are driving, your prior steps were somewhat of a waste, or at least you are taking the longer version. You will need to wash and lightly polish your paint again, silver may not show it but it is there, that is why my friend suggests black would be "swirl city"

Silver does not have magic powers.
Put it under some halogens you will see.

Also note frequently polishing your vehicle or polishing your vehicle without taking a proper reading with a paint thickness gauge(digital) and not having experience can lead to paint failure in the long run, or sooner then you think.

Always remeber to rinse between polishing and the LSP.
If it is a severly damaged/swirled paint surface that requires multi step compoudning be sure to rinse between the polishes as you go less and less abrasive.

Always begin with the lest aggresive polish and work your way up and then work your way back down, no need to take off more paint thaen neccessary.

Don't be scared by when I say removing paint. Clear coat as many are aware is just un pigmented paint.

Cheers and Happy Detailing

 

Looks good!!! Check your pms

 

If you're really into detailing your car, you should try my little secret - got to the chemical guys web site and buy Jetseal 109. This stuff is like no other sealer/wax out there. My car looks like it's brand new and I park it outside every day. They also have a carnuba wax that's pretty good (505) but once the jetseal is on, there's really nothing else that you need to do. I do clay bar the car before applying the jetseal, but trust me if you want a shine that is just all gloss and lasts for 5 months, this is the stuff.

 

Does the same go for a sealent rather than a wax, assuming it's non abbrasive of course as well? E55 Cannon talked about the Chem bros. Jetseal 109 which sounds fantastic...perhaps applying that on clear film would be great also? any thoughts...

 

jetseal 109 is the schiz. I use it after my mezerno Polish and it is amazing how wet and shiny it makes the paint. I highly recommend it.

 

That's a nice clean ride!! Great ride height.

 

Chemguys FTW:

-Citrus Wash and Gloss
-Medium Clay Bar
-Jet Seal 109
-50/50 Paste Wax

 

Yes - that's my recipe too. Stuff is just great. The other great Chem Guys product is their leather treatment. It works great and has a great new car smell. Tire dressing is decent too.

 

I have that too, loll. It is blue right? Smells just like a new car.

 

For leather its a PITA to apply but it sure works like magic. LEATHERIQUE. phenominal stuff. You have to follow directions very carefully but man does the leather come out supple and clean.

 

Not many items look well on metallic colors. P21 is good. Poor Boy is fine. Nothing I have tried beats Pinnacle SSII for luster on silver, just does not last longer than 60 days. Give it a shot. Of course prep the paint well.

 

What is the name of the product? I need to do my interior very badly soon, thanks!

Who makes the product?

 

It is made by leatherique.

It can litteraly restore cardboard leather back to amazing. You will need to purchase leatherique pristine clean and leatherique rejevenator oil.

I believe if I am not mistaken (look up directions or ask where you are ordering from) it works a little backwords, instead of cleaning and then replinishing the oils you actually have to apply a liberal amount of rejeuvenator oil to the seat and let it sit in the sun/heat, the oil will penetrate the leather and make it soft from ground up lifting all the dirt clogged in the pores of the leather.

You then apply the pristine clean to remove the excess oil that did not penetrate and the dirt that the oil lifted there will be alot of dirt!!!
I reccomend, regardless of the condition of your leather, to allow the oil to sit for a a good day or two, (24-48hours) longer if you can.

The longer you let it sit the better results you will have. Remember your leather didn't get messed up in 1 hour or 8 hours, its years old(assuming). So let it sit for as long as you can to reverse the aging. This is not your weekly monthly routine, it can be annual, or when needed. To tedious for on the regular.

You can order from anywhere you please, I have ordered from detailed image alot and they never fail me. It is on sale right now as well.

http://www.detailedimage.com/Leatherique-M8/