Voltage Regulator Replacement DIY- Its usually not the alternator
02-11-2014, 11:06 PM
#151
According to data I found below there was 3 different alternator versions available on the W211 chassis. Anyone know how to distinguish between these models? According to the trouble code above, mine uses the BSS style, but are the connections different so you can't install the wrong version on??
1. "CONVENTIONAL" alternator not linked to the engine control module (ECM)
^ No form of communication between the alternator and engine control module
^ Engine control module cannot assist during the alternator test
^ Testing not possible with STAR Diagnosis, only with a traditional Volt-Ampere-Tester
2. "BSS" alternator linked to the engine control module per BSS
^ BSS = Bit Synchronous Interface, communication is one-way from engine control module to alternator.
^ Testing possible via engine control module and STAR Diagnosis.
3. "LIN" alternator linked to the engine control module per LIN
^ LIN = Local Interconnect Network, communication is two-way between engine control module and alternator.
^ Testing possible via engine control module and STAR Diagnosis
Note:
Alternators with a BSS or LIN interface have greatly enhanced diagnosis capabilities. BSS or LIN interfaces allow these alternators to be tested with STAR Diagnosis and without the use of an external tester. STAR Diagnosis detects whether a BSS interface or an LIN interface is present when communicating with the engine control module.
1. "CONVENTIONAL" alternator not linked to the engine control module (ECM)
^ No form of communication between the alternator and engine control module
^ Engine control module cannot assist during the alternator test
^ Testing not possible with STAR Diagnosis, only with a traditional Volt-Ampere-Tester
2. "BSS" alternator linked to the engine control module per BSS
^ BSS = Bit Synchronous Interface, communication is one-way from engine control module to alternator.
^ Testing possible via engine control module and STAR Diagnosis.
3. "LIN" alternator linked to the engine control module per LIN
^ LIN = Local Interconnect Network, communication is two-way between engine control module and alternator.
^ Testing possible via engine control module and STAR Diagnosis
Note:
Alternators with a BSS or LIN interface have greatly enhanced diagnosis capabilities. BSS or LIN interfaces allow these alternators to be tested with STAR Diagnosis and without the use of an external tester. STAR Diagnosis detects whether a BSS interface or an LIN interface is present when communicating with the engine control module.
02-11-2014, 11:16 PM
#152
Hi guys first time poster on here, I think..
I'm fighting this same low power problem on my W211 CDI and about to invite E55AMG05 to help me adjust my fenders...
Started the car for the wife one day last week when it was sub zero F temps to warm up, and when she went out a bit later the red Batt/Alternator light was on. She drove it to work and by the time she got home it had changed to the Stop Engine message. Check voltage at rear battery with a meter, was only 11.3V.
After reading this post I was going to change voltage regulator but the local Autozone had a reman alternator for a $189, so I tossed one on it along with a new belt and charged the battery up. Soon as I stated the car, the Red battery with visit workshop came up, along with conv functions disabled. So then had both batteries tested, and even swapped in new ones just to be sure, same thing. Check the codes with a SnapOn tool and it keeps setting a 2245 alternator fault, and had 9128 undervoltage that has not came back since cleared. I figured out how to pull up the voltage on the dash. But here is the strange part, it's not charging when you first start the car if ya leave it idling. Soon as you touch the throttle, it starts charging and is putting out 14v from that moment on. However the red Batt message and conv func disabled remains active.....
So I took it to the dealer, they checked it out and they said "diag tool says bad alternator $1100 to change it to a MB unit before we can move forward". Had the wife bring it back, and today Autozone gave me another reman alternator. I just installed it, SSDD.. I also clean the terminals on the front batt isolator, rear BCM, did a 5min BCM reset as listed in a service bulletin I found, and still this same problem.
So it's went from not charging for certain, to not charging at start idle, but charges all other times.. Hard to think I got 2 bad alternators with the exact same problem, and the autozone tool won't connect to these bosch units to bench test. Tomorrow I am going to go get the factory core back and find someone who can bench test it and go from there.
Sorry for the length, but what in the h3ll am I missing here?? I'm about ready to let the dealer change out the alternator so I can stop going crazy. It's a pain to get those things out from the top, it's the 4-bolt style not the 2-bolt, and bet I can do it in book rate time next go round...
-K
I'm fighting this same low power problem on my W211 CDI and about to invite E55AMG05 to help me adjust my fenders...
Started the car for the wife one day last week when it was sub zero F temps to warm up, and when she went out a bit later the red Batt/Alternator light was on. She drove it to work and by the time she got home it had changed to the Stop Engine message. Check voltage at rear battery with a meter, was only 11.3V.
After reading this post I was going to change voltage regulator but the local Autozone had a reman alternator for a $189, so I tossed one on it along with a new belt and charged the battery up. Soon as I stated the car, the Red battery with visit workshop came up, along with conv functions disabled. So then had both batteries tested, and even swapped in new ones just to be sure, same thing. Check the codes with a SnapOn tool and it keeps setting a 2245 alternator fault, and had 9128 undervoltage that has not came back since cleared. I figured out how to pull up the voltage on the dash. But here is the strange part, it's not charging when you first start the car if ya leave it idling. Soon as you touch the throttle, it starts charging and is putting out 14v from that moment on. However the red Batt message and conv func disabled remains active.....
So I took it to the dealer, they checked it out and they said "diag tool says bad alternator $1100 to change it to a MB unit before we can move forward". Had the wife bring it back, and today Autozone gave me another reman alternator. I just installed it, SSDD.. I also clean the terminals on the front batt isolator, rear BCM, did a 5min BCM reset as listed in a service bulletin I found, and still this same problem.
So it's went from not charging for certain, to not charging at start idle, but charges all other times.. Hard to think I got 2 bad alternators with the exact same problem, and the autozone tool won't connect to these bosch units to bench test. Tomorrow I am going to go get the factory core back and find someone who can bench test it and go from there.
Sorry for the length, but what in the h3ll am I missing here?? I'm about ready to let the dealer change out the alternator so I can stop going crazy. It's a pain to get those things out from the top, it's the 4-bolt style not the 2-bolt, and bet I can do it in book rate time next go round...
-K
Hahahaha I couldn't wait to reply to this one. Btw my fender is fixed all done thank you. Bracket of the head lamp assembly needed replacement all done moving on. As for your power issue problem you need to do all of the 5 that I am going to list and life will be easy and F**K anyone here in this forum who disagrees.
1. replace voltage regulator(or OEM alternator not no cheap auto zone crap)
2. replace trunk battery
3. replace auxiliary battery
4. replaced front auxiliary isolator relay
5. replaced BCM in trunk
Problem solved. F**K anything else that ppl will add to it.
02-12-2014, 12:40 AM
#153
Doing all 5 as you stated is equal to 1/5 the value of the car... So forgive me for saying, WTF.
Cut me check for 5 times that and come get it..
I've changed out both batteries with two brand new loaners. No good. Both the BCM and front isolater have been removed and cleaned reinstalled and apear to be functioning according to MB. BTW, a BCM is over $500 alone, front batt isolater toss on anther $180.
As listed above, the alternator, 2nd one this week, is setting a hard code 2245, so now I am trying to verify what they mean by BSS link.
["BSS" alternator linked to the engine control module per BSS]
Basically the way the ECM is speaking to the alt, it doesn't see it.. Broken wire, or doesn't like the regulator on the alt.
I am going to order a regulator for the original stock one and start over there. However my part numbers shown in Alldata are:
Regulator: 0031544106
Alternator: 0131545602
The ones linked to further up in this post looks the same but is part #: 003-154-65-06
Which doesn't show up on that site listed under a 2005 CDI. So are they all the same, or as I listed above, what's the difference between the 3 types of alternators used on W211 chassis??
Cut me check for 5 times that and come get it..I've changed out both batteries with two brand new loaners. No good. Both the BCM and front isolater have been removed and cleaned reinstalled and apear to be functioning according to MB. BTW, a BCM is over $500 alone, front batt isolater toss on anther $180.
As listed above, the alternator, 2nd one this week, is setting a hard code 2245, so now I am trying to verify what they mean by BSS link.
["BSS" alternator linked to the engine control module per BSS]
Basically the way the ECM is speaking to the alt, it doesn't see it.. Broken wire, or doesn't like the regulator on the alt.
I am going to order a regulator for the original stock one and start over there. However my part numbers shown in Alldata are:
Regulator: 0031544106
Alternator: 0131545602
The ones linked to further up in this post looks the same but is part #: 003-154-65-06
Which doesn't show up on that site listed under a 2005 CDI. So are they all the same, or as I listed above, what's the difference between the 3 types of alternators used on W211 chassis??
Last edited by kidturbo; 02-12-2014 at 12:48 AM. Reason: under estimate value by $25--
The following users liked this post:
Kruzz$ (10-25-2023)
02-12-2014, 11:05 AM
#155
Doing all 5 as you stated is equal to 1/5 the value of the car... So forgive me for saying, WTF. Cut me check for 5 times that and come get it..
I've changed out both batteries with two brand new loaners. No good. Both the BCM and front isolater have been removed and cleaned reinstalled and apear to be functioning according to MB. BTW, a BCM is over $500 alone, front batt isolater toss on anther $180.
As listed above, the alternator, 2nd one this week, is setting a hard code 2245, so now I am trying to verify what they mean by BSS link.
["BSS" alternator linked to the engine control module per BSS]
Basically the way the ECM is speaking to the alt, it doesn't see it.. Broken wire, or doesn't like the regulator on the alt.
I am going to order a regulator for the original stock one and start over there. However my part numbers shown in Alldata are:
Regulator: 0031544106
Alternator: 0131545602
The ones linked to further up in this post looks the same but is part #: 003-154-65-06
Which doesn't show up on that site listed under a 2005 CDI. So are they all the same, or as I listed above, what's the difference between the 3 types of alternators used on W211 chassis??
Cut me check for 5 times that and come get it..I've changed out both batteries with two brand new loaners. No good. Both the BCM and front isolater have been removed and cleaned reinstalled and apear to be functioning according to MB. BTW, a BCM is over $500 alone, front batt isolater toss on anther $180.
As listed above, the alternator, 2nd one this week, is setting a hard code 2245, so now I am trying to verify what they mean by BSS link.
["BSS" alternator linked to the engine control module per BSS]
Basically the way the ECM is speaking to the alt, it doesn't see it.. Broken wire, or doesn't like the regulator on the alt.
I am going to order a regulator for the original stock one and start over there. However my part numbers shown in Alldata are:
Regulator: 0031544106
Alternator: 0131545602
The ones linked to further up in this post looks the same but is part #: 003-154-65-06
Which doesn't show up on that site listed under a 2005 CDI. So are they all the same, or as I listed above, what's the difference between the 3 types of alternators used on W211 chassis??
OK FINE YOU DNT WANT TO DO IT OK SO Than sell the car. ppl put these f****N after market crap on there cars and cry on MB forum. This is exactly how I know that your broke,cheap, and don't plan to keep your car since you are not going ham in fixing it. I'm investing 2K in repairing that BS problem of the CONVENTION FUNCTION UNAVAILABLE & the BATTERY/ALTERNATOR VISIT WORKSHOP stuff. After that just to make it offical I'm putting in new starter, new solenoid, new key switch and probably the two SAMs that slide behind where the two main fuses go defently will be over 2K which would be 1/4 of the cars value today, but I dnt give a FU*K
Last edited by E55AMG05; 02-12-2014 at 11:08 AM.
02-12-2014, 11:10 AM
#156
Super Member
This thread is titled voltage regulator replacement DIY .....I understand you running into issues and that's no problem ....but .....kid turbo ......probably one of the things that you should replace is the OEM voltage regulator??? Just my .02
Last edited by MAN55LE; 02-12-2014 at 11:14 AM.
02-12-2014, 11:15 AM
#157
Super Member
OK FINE YOU DNT WANT TO DO IT OK SO Than sell the car. ppl put these f****N after market crap on there cars and cry on MB forum. This is exactly how I know that your broke,cheap, and don't plan to keep your car since you are not going ham in fixing it. I'm investing 2K in repairing that BS problem of the CONVENTION FUNCTION UNAVAILABLE & the BATTERY/ALTERNATOR VISIT WORKSHOP stuff. After that just to make it offical I'm putting in new starter, new solenoid, new key switch and probably the two SAMs that slide behind where the two main fuses go defently will be over 2K which would be 1/4 of the cars value today, but I dnt give a FU*K
02-12-2014, 02:30 PM
#158
I completely agree.. According to the dealer who worked on this last week, that is so typical that they don't even stock alternators.
I messed up by jumping past that part, now have to start at step one again. But somehow the outer cover on my alternator with the positive lead thru it got cracked, so now looking for that part also. Plus there is no reason "2" reman alternators that were bench tested before install shouldn't work on these cars. I can see them not lasting long, but the codes I'm getting point to a communication error, and I found that the 2 reg wires on those BSS units connect to front SAM. And we all know those SAM units never go bad....
There is also a bulletin listed about false alternator error messages on the W211 chassis too. So apologies for high jacking this perfectly good thread, I'll only update what my fix is, and yes... someone should cut this off a few pages back and lock it as a sticky..
As for E55AMG05, not my first MB, won't be my last either, I did this work for a living for many years, so forgive me for not throwing the kitchen sink at a simple charging problem. I test drove a beautiful SL some years ago with quirky throttle issues. The $125k version with the biodegradability wiring harness, if anyone might recall?
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...ly-models.html
That engine harness had been replaced under warranty, but now the TPS sensors on the throttle bodies were failing. My brother spent $5k to replace 2 throttle bodies, and I just laughed about why his lovely 10 yr old car was worth about 1/10th it's original value... Benz builds some great stuff, but few people want to pay for a car twice, new or used. Cost's to repair is the main reason these cars value drops like a rock soon as factory warranty is up.
Think about it.
02-12-2014, 02:53 PM
#159
I completely agree.. According to the dealer who worked on this last week, that is so typical that they don't even stock alternators.
I messed up by jumping past that part, now have to start at step one again. But somehow the outer cover on my alternator with the positive lead thru it got cracked, so now looking for that part also. Plus there is no reason "2" reman alternators that were bench tested before install shouldn't work on these cars. I can see them not lasting long, but the codes I'm getting point to a communication error, and I found that the 2 reg wires on those BSS units connect to front SAM. And we all know those SAM units never go bad....
There is also a bulletin listed about false alternator error messages on the W211 chassis too. So apologies for high jacking this perfectly good thread, I'll only update what my fix is, and yes... someone should cut this off a few pages back and lock it as a sticky..
As for E55AMG05, not my first MB, won't be my last either, I did this work for a living for many years, so forgive me for not throwing the kitchen sink at a simple charging problem. I test drove a beautiful SL some years ago with quirky throttle issues. The $125k version with the biodegradability wiring harness, if anyone might recall?
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...ly-models.html
That engine harness had been replaced under warranty, but now the TPS sensors on the throttle bodies were failing. My brother spent $5k to replace 2 throttle bodies, and I just laughed about why his lovely 10 yr old car was worth about 1/10th it's original value... Benz builds some great stuff, but few people want to pay for a car twice, new or used. Cost's to repair is the main reason these cars value drops like a rock soon as factory warranty is up.
Think about it.
I messed up by jumping past that part, now have to start at step one again. But somehow the outer cover on my alternator with the positive lead thru it got cracked, so now looking for that part also. Plus there is no reason "2" reman alternators that were bench tested before install shouldn't work on these cars. I can see them not lasting long, but the codes I'm getting point to a communication error, and I found that the 2 reg wires on those BSS units connect to front SAM. And we all know those SAM units never go bad....
There is also a bulletin listed about false alternator error messages on the W211 chassis too. So apologies for high jacking this perfectly good thread, I'll only update what my fix is, and yes... someone should cut this off a few pages back and lock it as a sticky..
As for E55AMG05, not my first MB, won't be my last either, I did this work for a living for many years, so forgive me for not throwing the kitchen sink at a simple charging problem. I test drove a beautiful SL some years ago with quirky throttle issues. The $125k version with the biodegradability wiring harness, if anyone might recall?
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...ly-models.html
That engine harness had been replaced under warranty, but now the TPS sensors on the throttle bodies were failing. My brother spent $5k to replace 2 throttle bodies, and I just laughed about why his lovely 10 yr old car was worth about 1/10th it's original value... Benz builds some great stuff, but few people want to pay for a car twice, new or used. Cost's to repair is the main reason these cars value drops like a rock soon as factory warranty is up.
Think about it.
Last edited by E55AMG05; 02-12-2014 at 02:56 PM.
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TCV (01-29-2021)
02-17-2014, 01:37 AM
#161
Part#'s Matters
Fixed mine, was simply the wrong voltage regulator. Tossed a new one on the stock CDI alternator and fixed... There is no real reason you can't use a good re-man alternator, so long as it has the correct amperage and matching regulator for your car. If not the alternator may run in limp mode at 14.1-3 volts and set code 2245.
05-06 W211 CDI Regulator MB Part# 0031544106 Verifired
OEM REFERENCE List
BOSCH#
F00M144108
F00M144132
F00M145292
F00M145374
F00M145884
FOOM144108
FOOM144132
FOOM145292
FOOM145374
FOOM145884
Cheers,
-K
05-06 W211 CDI Regulator MB Part# 0031544106 Verifired
OEM REFERENCE List
BOSCH#
F00M144108
F00M144132
F00M145292
F00M145374
F00M145884
FOOM144108
FOOM144132
FOOM145292
FOOM145374
FOOM145884
Cheers,
-K
02-23-2014, 02:46 PM
#162
Swapped mines out this morning, would been a quick job if I had a 15mm deep socket, had to go out and buy one. I noticed my interior lights don't dim/pulsate now when my car is idling. I have a 05 , 89,000 miles
Last edited by ES EF ED; 02-23-2014 at 06:22 PM.
02-24-2014, 01:27 AM
#164
Nice work 
Your brushes look just a tad longer than mine did with 92k. Would say this change should be on everyone's DIY maintenance list for an 80k mile service.
I'm off to find some ball joints now, which also belong on that list...
Your brushes look just a tad longer than mine did with 92k. Would say this change should be on everyone's DIY maintenance list for an 80k mile service.
I'm off to find some ball joints now, which also belong on that list...
03-20-2014, 07:57 PM
#167
MBWorld Fanatic!
My Battery Protection Convenience Functions temporarily not available … message came on today. It came on suddenly and shut down my stereo for a while and then came back on again … Did it like 4 times in the course of 35 minutes. When I got home, I checked the voltage and it was 13.9V to 14.0V. Reading some of the voltages seen here from other people, this doesn't appear to be the regulator, would that be a safe assumption? Is there a specific test in DAS I can run to determine what it is? I see a test for BCM but not for the regulator. Should I just take it to O'Reilly's Auto for a check?
Cheers
Cheers
03-20-2014, 09:06 PM
#168
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Canada
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07 E63 + 07 CLK63CAB
Back to the basics, how old are your batteries, yes check both. one will be low on voltage. Check with the car not running. The 13.9-14 is showing you that the alternator is functioning okay.
03-20-2014, 09:42 PM
#169
MBWorld Fanatic!
Yep … I skipped the basic stuff … I should've stated batteries should be ok. Auxiliary is 3 years old and Main is less than 2 years old. I am in warmer climates so don't expect batteries to wear so quickly .. but I don't rule it out completely.
03-21-2014, 10:32 AM
#170
My Battery Protection Convenience Functions temporarily not available … message came on today. It came on suddenly and shut down my stereo for a while and then came back on again … Did it like 4 times in the course of 35 minutes. When I got home, I checked the voltage and it was 13.9V to 14.0V. Reading some of the voltages seen here from other people, this doesn't appear to be the regulator, would that be a safe assumption? Is there a specific test in DAS I can run to determine what it is? I see a test for BCM but not for the regulator. Should I just take it to O'Reilly's Auto for a check?
Cheers
Cheers
Now the reason you see the normal voltages is because the when you were testing, the alternator had kicked back on. I had Oreilly check mine and when the message was off everything passed (repeated the test at least 3 times on battery and alternator). But when the message popped on (I just waited in the parking lot till it did), the alternator failed every time.
Just my experiences
03-21-2014, 10:41 AM
#171
BTW do you have an aftermarket alternator on your car?
03-21-2014, 10:43 AM
#172
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jul 2012
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07 E63 + 07 CLK63CAB
Kponti, glad yours is okay now. It was good idea to just wait until it happened again and measure the voltage. Process of elimination without the spent money on what if's.
03-21-2014, 10:50 AM
#173
MBWorld Fanatic!
Not sure what this means ... do you mean that if you let it idle, the message would come back on? While the message was on, you ran the test ... what test? Load test?
I noticed mine tends to come on more when engine speed is low (yesterday). When I drove in this morning I was cruising and it did not come on at all ... weird
My alternator is original alternator.
I noticed mine tends to come on more when engine speed is low (yesterday). When I drove in this morning I was cruising and it did not come on at all ... weird
My alternator is original alternator.
03-21-2014, 10:53 AM
#174
03-21-2014, 10:57 AM
#175
Not sure what this means ... do you mean that if you let it idle, the message would come back on? While the message was on, you ran the test ... what test? Load test?
I noticed mine tends to come on more when engine speed is low (yesterday). When I drove in this morning I was cruising and it did not come on at all ... weird
My alternator is original alternator.
I noticed mine tends to come on more when engine speed is low (yesterday). When I drove in this morning I was cruising and it did not come on at all ... weird
My alternator is original alternator.
And yes when I am cruising, the message does not come on. Also it started to come on more often over the course of 2 weeks, eventually it came on when I was cruising, but goes away and everything is back to normal after a few minutes.
One way I could always make it come on after a while is to go WOT and let off the gas (till rpm dropped below 4k before upshifting) around the last week or so. But after a few minutes it will go off again and back to normal
