Wow man, Thats crazy. I advise everyone to check there Pullies, this is a prime example. And I am to, I noticed my ASP 180mm pulley wobbling a few months back and was worried I got a bad pulley. I took the radiator shroud off etc. and put a 1/2 ratchet on the bolt, It tightened lightly by hand :EEK: It had worked its way loose. I took it all apart measured the crank pulley for runout, got a NEW crank bolt and tightened everyting back down. The pulley was straight as an arrow after that. CHECK YOUR PULLEYS!!!!

 

Great advice. I rechecked mine last night after only 50 miles of use. I used a paint pen to make an alignment mark on the bolt and pulley. I plan to simply use a pocket mirror to check to ensure the alignment marks are correct every few hundred miles. If they aren't, I know the bolt is loosening/backing out.

Todd

 

True. My bad. Smack me.

 

I think you should use a modded stock pulley like what renntech,kleemann,evotech and ASP use.

maybe even run less boost like a renntech 168 or something.

 

I don't really have any experience with these things but if it was me, I'd first make sure the snout of the crank is not bent. If it checks out OK then a new key, a bit of polishing and the 180 pulley. I'd be tempted to affix it permanently. It all depends on how the crank checks out. Good luck.

Les

 

Bro, I had the exact same issue with my pulley coming off and it sheared off the keyway. I'm sure it came off due to a bad install. My car is still down after almost 2yrs. PM for more of this horror story.

 

Seems to me the pulley was never seated properly when you tried to torque her down.

Now given the rough surface of the crank its going to be pretty tough to get a new pulley to seat nice and tight regardless of the key. That would be my biggest worry right now.

Also there seems to be some issue on the function of the keyway. I.e. is it a positioning locator for the pulley to get it alligned properly, or does it provide grip against rotational forces?

Seems to me it did nada in stopping any rotaional force in this case and seems to be made of a softer metal than either the crank or the pulley, and therefore not designed as such. Is the pulley balanced with respect to the crank / rotating components or if I spun a pulley in isolation would it be balanced too? If the former the locating key would be crucial, if not I am not convinced of its importance over the mating surfaces of the pulley and crank being as perfectly aligned / machined as possible.

I think best bet is get the crank snout cleaned up as best you can. If it is still scoured badly you may need it to be reground and have a custom pulley made to size....

Also is the crank snout slightly profiled (i.e. marginal conical shape?) This may be another option when / of the crank snout requires a regrind, and a new pulley is put in place. Thing is if the crank has parallel surfaces against what does the pulley torque down into? The back of the crank snout?

Tough break this. If you are in for another crank you may try a rough and ready fix of smoothing the snout down as best you can, replace the woodruf key (looks like keyway is ok, and the key should just come out). Relocate a new pulley, see how snug it is on the snout and try your luck.

Another thought on the loctite. Bad idea. It may have puddled in the crank snout bolt hole and caused hydraulic compression / pressure severly affecting your torqueing spec of the bolt....

my 2c...

 

I had already solved this issue:

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-come-off.html