W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63
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crap...My new pulley just fell off!

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Old 03-21-2011, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by GT-ER
I saw the key inside the pulley keyway with my mirror ( it was the only way I could so it to begin with since it's way in there ) before I installed the bolt.

I think it's the pressure the bolt puts on the pulley and crank that keeps it from spinning...not the key. Assuming my torque was too weak ( which apparently was the problem ) then the key would take the force and snap off. Make sense?

I just bolted on the pulley and slightly torqued it ( about 20ft-lbs on my screwed up wrench ) and it was very tight. It was so tight as a matter of fact that it took two pry bars for me to get it back off.
Can you tell if the key broke off or did it simply get pushed back off the crank snout towards the motor?
Old 03-21-2011, 08:09 PM
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I see. Evidently the bolt came loose causing the pulley start walking off like Todd said earlier.
Old 03-21-2011, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by GT-ER

I think it's the pressure the bolt puts on the pulley and crank that keeps it from spinning...not the key. Assuming my torque was too weak ( which apparently was the problem ) then the key would take the force and snap off. Make sense?
sknight is correct here.

Your idea is not how keysets work and why they're used. They're used in any rotational shaft elements and not just for marking. They keep any relative rotation between the two parts. The bolt keeps it from spinning off with all that torque that develops between the shaft and pulley.

It's what I meant by "a holding force" in my earlier post above.

No engineer would simply bolt on two components that using such rotational force together. That's why keysets are used.

Don't do it.
Old 03-21-2011, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by GT-ER
I installed my eurocharged pulley and I torqued it to 265+90* and I noticed it had some wobble. I took a drive and in my first wot run it just fell off. I hope my crank is okay.
So why 265? What wrong with the factory spec? I'm assuming its a pulley hub's material is the same as stock and a stock bolt. factory spec is 147.5 +90 degrees.
Old 03-21-2011, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by GT-ER
No need. It was a mistake on my part ( an unforeseen even in this case ) and at no moment did I make it sound like it was eurocharged's fault ( or at least I never intended it to sound that way if I did ).

Anyways...we are getting off topic.
We never took it like you were placing blame at all my friend. When you sell as many pullies as we do (thousands by this point) you see just about everything imaginable.

So sorry it happened to you. If there is anything we can do to help we will!

It just really sucks that you pretty much did everything right but got a swift kick in the @ss by a damaged tool.....
Old 03-21-2011, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by sneakyneon
So why 265? What wrong with the factory spec? I'm assuming its a pulley hub's material is the same as stock and a stock bolt. factory spec is 147.5 +90 degrees.
Eurocharged Specs... I also had major hesitations about this torque load but, after speaking with Jerry it was determined the pulley hub uses hardened material vs the softer OEM material and this is why it requires such torque. My pulley came with instructions stating 275 ft/lbs + 90 degree turn.
Old 03-21-2011, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Todd Edge
Eurocharged Specs... I also had major hesitations about this torque load but, after speaking with Jerry it was determined the pulley hub uses hardened material vs the softer OEM material and this is why it requires such torque. My pulley came with instructions stating 275 ft/lbs + 90 degree turn.
Ever heard of a factory pulley falling off. I haven't. My point being, why reinvent the wheel, stock material hub with the factory bolt equals pulleys that don't fall off.
Old 03-21-2011, 09:09 PM
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don't whatever you do just bolt that sucker on there without the key.

This is a bad idea
Old 03-21-2011, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by sknight
I wonder when the world started expecting that everything should be delivered, nice, sensitive, and even sugarcoated.

The OP is a grown man and doesn't need another to request sugarcoating.

On top of that, it's fairly ludicrous for you to compare the owner of an E55, who damaged his crank, to impoverished families in Africa. That's quite silly. The tuner has nothing to do with this. They are covering their end to make sure no rumors start going around that their product was not made right and led to this.
Even grown men can make mistakes and get taken for a ride. As for comparing the owner of the car to a child in Africa, the point (since I seem to need to explain it) is that bad stuff happens to EVERYONE, and it's not a question of "deserving" bad stuff or not - that is some bizarre, dark ages thinking there that I, frankly, do not get.

I'm not telling you to sugarcoat what you're saying to anyone - and if I was, you'd have every reason to tell me to go f- myself! What I am saying, though, if that your comments about the OP deserving for something bad to happen to his car (which he obviously is enthusiastic about or he wouldn't be on the boards, tuning it, etc.) don't deserve (since you like that word) an audience.
Old 03-21-2011, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by sknight
No, the key does the job. Over time, with oscillations, the crank WILL move. Put loads on it, like from accessories, the tendency to move is further increased. Some cars use the key exclusively, as the fit is fairly loose. Some use a combo of friction, which removes some of the load the woodruf key will see. But the woodruf key keeps things indexed and ensures a minimum of large rotational movement between the crank and the pulley.
The key just looks so weak at the tip where the pulley is installed ( it's shaped like half a moon and the thinnest part, the edge, is what holds the pulley ). Interesting....

Originally Posted by sneakyneon
Ever heard of a factory pulley falling off. I haven't. My point being, why reinvent the wheel, stock material hub with the factory bolt equals pulleys that don't fall off.
The factory pulley has a LOT less load on it due to the fact that it's a lot smaller. The more torque that is placed on the pulley, the higher the odds that it'll fail. Remember, this pulley has to deal with the huge strain placed on it by the S/C. And the larger the pulley, the larger the strain.
Old 03-21-2011, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by loungn14
We never took it like you were placing blame at all my friend. When you sell as many pullies as we do (thousands by this point) you see just about everything imaginable.

So sorry it happened to you. If there is anything we can do to help we will!

It just really sucks that you pretty much did everything right but got a swift kick in the @ss by a damaged tool.....
You guys gave me great service...better than my torque wrench did anyways...lol.
Old 03-21-2011, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by loungn14
We never took it like you were placing blame at all my friend. When you sell as many pullies as we do (thousands by this point) you see just about everything imaginable.
You guys have sold thousands of 55 Kompressor pulleys? (https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...n-numbers.html)
Old 03-21-2011, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by loungn14
We never took it like you were placing blame at all my friend. When you sell as many pullies as we do (thousands by this point) you see just about everything imaginable.

So sorry it happened to you. If there is anything we can do to help we will!

It just really sucks that you pretty much did everything right but got a swift kick in the @ss by a damaged tool.....
Originally Posted by Speedriven
You guys have sold thousands of 55 Kompressor pulleys? (https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...n-numbers.html)
He never said 55K pulleys. I've also seen people swap out 2-3 pulleys. Regardless, it's off topic.
Old 03-21-2011, 09:43 PM
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Damn. Everybodys fear happ to you. Guess you're the lucky one of the bunch.
Best of luck, keep us updated.
Old 03-21-2011, 09:47 PM
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The mating surfaces of the pulley and crank are important.
Are you sure you should be using locktite on the mating surfaces? I don't know, as I am not familiar with this application. When I was into my 911 engine, the surfaces has to be clean on the crank pulley, no oil or anything. It was also a taper fit, and it took a while to get the runout correct. I used a dial indicator and rolled the engine to check. Had to loosen and retorque twice, plus I used a rubber mallet to get things into spec.
I, like you, have experience with several engine rebuilds, but on these tight tolerance, high HP engines, I get a little wary. Took me forever to put my 911 engine back together. I was probably over cautious, however, it did help that I had a factory manual, and some other reference material, and a great forum to help.
Do you have a manual? You definitely have a good forum.
Good luck and I hope this turns out well.

That G35 engine... Wow. gotta ask, what happened?
Old 03-21-2011, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by wsybert
The mating surfaces of the pulley and crank are important.
Are you sure you should be using locktite on the mating surfaces? I don't know, as I am not familiar with this application. When I was into my 911 engine, the surfaces has to be clean on the crank pulley, no oil or anything. It was also a taper fit, and it took a while to get the runout correct. I used a dial indicator and rolled the engine to check. Had to loosen and retorque twice, plus I used a rubber mallet to get things into spec.
I, like you, have experience with several engine rebuilds, but on these tight tolerance, high HP engines, I get a little wary. Took me forever to put my 911 engine back together. I was probably over cautious, however, it did help that I had a factory manual, and some other reference material, and a great forum to help.
Do you have a manual? You definitely have a good forum.
Good luck and I hope this turns out well.

That G35 engine... Wow. gotta ask, what happened?
I used loctite on the bolt...not the mating surfaces. I also do not have a manual unfortunately.

As for the G35...those engines are pretty weak as it is ( 450whp is pretty much the most anyone has held on a stock engine before it blows ). I pushed 417whp on my automatic and I guess the engine just couldn't do it anymore. It ran strong for a while and then one day...BOOM! I did my own tune so I know it was good ( I've tuned my own vehicles for years, and ran on the tune for over 6 months with no issues and beating the HELL out of it ). It happens I guess.
Old 03-21-2011, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by GT-ER
The key just looks so weak at the tip where the pulley is installed ( it's shaped like half a moon and the thinnest part, the edge, is what holds the pulley ). Interesting....



The factory pulley has a LOT less load on it due to the fact that it's a lot smaller. The more torque that is placed on the pulley, the higher the odds that it'll fail. Remember, this pulley has to deal with the huge strain placed on it by the S/C. And the larger the pulley, the larger the strain.
There is several thing here that I'd like to comment on, but all that I'm going to say is this, I run 195mm ASP pulley, I use the factory bolt and fallow the Mercedes installation procedure for tightening the bolt and my pulley has never fallen off. I understand that your wrench failed and that led to the bolt being to loose to meet EC standards who apparently feel that there pulley requires 100+ ft pounds of more torque to keep from falling off.
Old 03-21-2011, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Speedriven
You guys have sold thousands of 55 Kompressor pulleys? (https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...n-numbers.html)
That we have....our 32 pulley design is the same as the 55 series as far as internals and the way the hub is. But thanks for the US link. We were over a thousand before the switch to houston...and we have been shipping worldwide since day one

Originally Posted by GT-ER
He never said 55K pulleys. I've also seen people swap out 2-3 pulleys. Regardless, it's off topic.
correct But once again, on topic if there is ANYTHING we can do let me know. I assume you are going to take a jab at doing a lot yourslef. Bounce me a pm with any questions on diagrams as well as torque specs you may need!
Old 03-21-2011, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by sneakyneon
There is several thing here that I'd like to comment on, but all that I'm going to say is this, I run 195mm ASP pulley, I use the factory bolt and fallow the Mercedes installation procedure for tightening the bolt and my pulley has never fallen off. I understand that your wrench failed and that led to the bolt being to loose to meet EC standards who apparently feel that there pulley requires 100+ ft pounds of more torque to keep from falling off.
hmmm...well that sure is interesting...you got me there...lol.
Old 03-21-2011, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by loungn14
That we have....our 32 pulley design is the same as the 55 series as far as internals and the way the hub is. But thanks for the US link. We were over a thousand before the switch to houston...and we have been shipping worldwide since day one



correct But once again, on topic if there is ANYTHING we can do let me know. I assume you are going to take a jab at doing a lot yourslef. Bounce me a pm with any questions on diagrams as well as torque specs you may need!
Yes there is something you guys can do for me...but I already contacted Jerry and Clint regarding a new Woodruff key, timing cover seal and bolt. Don't know if you guys sell those parts. I'm just waiting on their reply.

I vowed many years ago to NEVER let ANYONE touch my cars, what I did not know how to do....I would learn.

Have a factory service manual laying around?
Old 03-21-2011, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by GT-ER
Yes there is something you guys can do for me...but I already contacted Jerry and Clint regarding a new Woodruff key, timing cover seal and bolt. Don't know if you guys sell those parts. I'm just waiting on their reply.

I vowed many years ago to NEVER let ANYONE touch my cars, what I did not know how to do....I would learn.

Have a factory service manual laying around?
sending you a pm....
Old 03-21-2011, 11:31 PM
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I'm sorry this happened. Worst case scenario, weld the damn pulley on the crank, drive the car until it die.

Good luck bro
Old 03-21-2011, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Forrest Gump 9
I'm sorry this happened. Worst case scenario, weld the damn pulley on the crank, drive the car until it die.

Good luck bro

Trust me....I'd do it if I have to. I actually thought about it...

Last edited by GT-ER; 03-21-2011 at 11:39 PM.
Old 03-22-2011, 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by GT-ER
I used loctite on the bolt...not the mating surfaces. I also do not have a manual unfortunately.

As for the G35...those engines are pretty weak as it is ( 450whp is pretty much the most anyone has held on a stock engine before it blows ). I pushed 417whp on my automatic and I guess the engine just couldn't do it anymore. It ran strong for a while and then one day...BOOM! I did my own tune so I know it was good ( I've tuned my own vehicles for years, and ran on the tune for over 6 months with no issues and beating the HELL out of it ). It happens I guess.
Yeah, I grenaded a VQ35DE as well, but fortunately only broke a connecting rod and the engine block. heh. Those engines just weren't designed to handle boost.
Old 03-22-2011, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by taurran
Yeah, I grenaded a VQ35DE as well, but fortunately only broke a connecting rod and the engine block. heh. Those engines just weren't designed to handle boost.
JUST a connecting rod and block? LOL.


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