GT-ER

I didn't take what you said as being rude, but I honestly just can't imagine my luck to be so bad that both torque wrenches are bad. One of them being new. I didn't take it the wrong way though.

GT-ER

I'll take pics when I get home.

sknight

The wrench wasn't the only issue. You even posted how you noticed the crank wobbling when you first ran the engine, but continued to run it anyhow. You presented it, but failed to make the connection that this was a massive warning sign. Now you have a new torque wrench, a new pulley, a new bolt, new keyway, then the same thing happens. The common denominator is you, yet you will not take the car to an expert. Instead, you look for goals that are many steps ahead of getting the car back together and are getting further away. Again, you need to have an expert examine everything, which is still something you fail to do. You're focused on solutions and steps beyond solutions without finding the cause of the issues, despite having a new torque wrench, new pulley, new bolt, new key.

GT-ER

Do a search on pulley wobble and get back to me on how many have had it with zero issues. It had a slight wobbled, but didn't think anything of it due to the fact that a lot of people have had the same wobble with no issues.

Regardless, it's pointless to continue arguing with you. I got my new parallel key which is going to span the entire length of the crank pulley ( unlike the oem key which only goes about 1/4 the length ). Well see how this goes.

sknight

So you're telling us the manufacturer of your pulley is at fault? You had problems now with two pulleys of theirs, have you not?

GT-ER

Where does it say that in my post? Stop putting words in my mouth....I have nothing further to add.

I already found a long parallel key, next stop...grinding the crank snout.

Velociabstract

In defense of GT-ER, and to educate the unknowing about experts in P.R. I had a beautiful 1976 280C 5 speed and one of the rails for the timing chain broke. So I bought all the necessary parts and took the car to an "expert". I pick the car up and it overheats on the way home. The "expert" broke the radiator, left lots of bolts off, had all the valves (M110) at 0 lash etc. I ended up redoing all the work myself. Certainly we have some brilliant mechanics in P.R. but most of them are owners that work on their own cars out of necessity and for the love of their automobiles. Perhaps things are different in other parts of the world. The only difficult part of this is learning on an AMG which can be expensive. BTW, I do all the work on my SRT-6 which an AMG dressed in a Marssoto.

Les

guysandiego

Huge bummer -- I hope you get it fixed this time around -- It is really a curse to have it go wrong one time -- let alone twice.

We knocked mine out rather easily... and its no wonder you would tackle the job yourself. Its simple.

On the other hand my friend had a shop destroy his -- and he had to do a redo at another shop -- It can be a pain in the ***.

c32AMG-DTM

Did that installation info come directly from EC? If so, it's germaine to the OP's issue and paramount that he follow EC's guidance for their product, as it is significantly greater than the OEM spec.

275 ft/lbs (373 Nm) is a huge amount of torque to apply, and it's only the first step. Getting that 90* turn after already applying 275 ft/lbs to the bolt must be a real bear (since the OEM instructions of ~150 ft/lbs plus 90 already is). I'd probably use the strongest breaker bar I could find, and slip a solid 6' steel pipe over it, to try and attempt that last quarter turn.