For anyone who has had there pulleys come off...
#1
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2005 E55 AMG
For anyone who has had there pulleys come off...
If anyone has the bad luck I've had and has had their pulleys come off...this may be your solution.
This is what it looked like when my pulley came off....you can see the stock key sheered off:
![](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/GT-ER/IMG_3060.jpg)
This is what I did now:
![](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/GT-ER/IMG_3067.jpg)
I used my dremel with a tungsten carbide bit to make a canal and installed a parallel style key. The key is not only twice as long as the oem key...it's also about twice as think in the end points ( woodruffs are half moon shaped, this one is just rectangular ). It looks like it protrudes in the picture, but it doesn't...it's flush with the tip on the crankshaft.
As soon as I get a new bolt and seal...it's time to bolt on the damper AGAIN and see how this new key holds up. I honestly can't see this failing but I guess we'll find out eh?
This is what it looked like when my pulley came off....you can see the stock key sheered off:
![](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/GT-ER/IMG_3060.jpg)
This is what I did now:
![](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/GT-ER/IMG_3067.jpg)
I used my dremel with a tungsten carbide bit to make a canal and installed a parallel style key. The key is not only twice as long as the oem key...it's also about twice as think in the end points ( woodruffs are half moon shaped, this one is just rectangular ). It looks like it protrudes in the picture, but it doesn't...it's flush with the tip on the crankshaft.
As soon as I get a new bolt and seal...it's time to bolt on the damper AGAIN and see how this new key holds up. I honestly can't see this failing but I guess we'll find out eh?
#2
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I dont know--- Im no expert but all this cant be as good as stock. Didnt the factory design it to be optimal?
Let the gamble continue.
Let the gamble continue.
#3
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2005 E55 AMG
At this moment I just need something that's pretty bulletproof...and this will hopefully be just that.
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#4
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This is where I got the idea from:
http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...-survived.html
Thanks velociabstract.
http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...-survived.html
Thanks velociabstract.
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SRT-6
You work fast! I've got my fingers crossed for your success. Especially if it quiets down ole what's his name. Long live DIY.
Les
I want to line up with you one of these days, even though I may not stand a chance. Next rental? Looser buys the beers. Medalla or Curs.
Les
I want to line up with you one of these days, even though I may not stand a chance. Next rental? Looser buys the beers. Medalla or Curs.
Last edited by Velociabstract; 03-28-2011 at 08:19 PM.
#7
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2005 E55 AMG
Thanks guys...it was actually quicker than I expected. I didn't have to remove the timing cover for this and the tungsten carbide bit really ate the crankshaft up pretty quick. I put about 1 hour of labor into this.
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#8
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Nice work. I read the other forum thread... impact wrench!?! That's knowing how to "git-R-done".
If your key is snug in the slot and the pulley, and you get the required torque... I'm betting it works.
Bill
If your key is snug in the slot and the pulley, and you get the required torque... I'm betting it works.
Bill
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SRT-6
You may want to check all the pulleys while the belt is off. It's possible one is bad and putting a lot of stress on the crank pulley. Just thinking out loud. You still don't know for sure why the key didn't hold. Check them just in case before you get it all assembled.
Les
Les
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Thanks!
You may want to check all the pulleys while the belt is off. It's possible one is bad and putting a lot of stress on the crank pulley. Just thinking out loud. You still don't know for sure why the key didn't hold. Check them just in case before you get it all assembled.
Les
Les
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Usually parallel style keys are used with pulleys that are completely loose ( where the key is solely responsible for making the pulley turn, or the pulley making the shaft turn ) so it really shouldn't fail.
Trust me...I hope so more than you do.
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#14
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Looks good to me. I have had a couple of superchargers on boat motors. It was common to cut an additional key way in the crank to have two keys instead of just one.
Question to the rest of you. Isn't the key and the clamping force of the bolt head to the pulley the only two things keeping the pulley from spinning on the crank?
Question to the rest of you. Isn't the key and the clamping force of the bolt head to the pulley the only two things keeping the pulley from spinning on the crank?
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Looks good to me. I have had a couple of superchargers on boat motors. It was common to cut an additional key way in the crank to have two keys instead of just one.
Question to the rest of you. Isn't the key and the clamping force of the bolt head to the pulley the only two things keeping the pulley from spinning on the crank?
Question to the rest of you. Isn't the key and the clamping force of the bolt head to the pulley the only two things keeping the pulley from spinning on the crank?
In my case since the clamping force is expected to be less due to the damage, I'm hoping that having a key twice as strong will do the trick.
#19
Noticed there is oil laying at the bottom of the timing cover and timing chain is covered in oil, I am wondering where the oil seal is? I haven't had to tear down one of these engines, but on other cars I've owned the keyway was towards the engine side of the crank because a rubber main oil seal went over the crank and was held in place by the pulley. Is that not the case on these engines? I'm asking because your keyway goes all the way to the end of the crank(looks fantastic by the way), just wanting to make sure it isn't going to interfere with an oil seal that slips over the crank.
In any event, way to keep going man, I would have had a breakdown by now, so I applaud your tenacity. Please keep us posted.
Regards
In any event, way to keep going man, I would have had a breakdown by now, so I applaud your tenacity. Please keep us posted.
Regards
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Haven't read through all the replys so forgive if am doubling. Doesn't this scream balancing issues bro? I dunno, maybe it's nothing but you've just added a weight to a perfectly balanced crank system. You have been through so much, please let it work for ya!!
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Guys this is done all the time on cars with aftermarket SC kits. Vipers, Vettes, even porsches I don't think could have come up with a better solution. Either a parallel key or roll pin is just fine
#23
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Noticed there is oil laying at the bottom of the timing cover and timing chain is covered in oil, I am wondering where the oil seal is? I haven't had to tear down one of these engines, but on other cars I've owned the keyway was towards the engine side of the crank because a rubber main oil seal went over the crank and was held in place by the pulley. Is that not the case on these engines? I'm asking because your keyway goes all the way to the end of the crank(looks fantastic by the way), just wanting to make sure it isn't going to interfere with an oil seal that slips over the crank.
In any event, way to keep going man, I would have had a breakdown by now, so I applaud your tenacity. Please keep us posted.
Regards
In any event, way to keep going man, I would have had a breakdown by now, so I applaud your tenacity. Please keep us posted.
Regards
I shoved a microfiber towel inside where the oil pump chain is. I doubt any shavings fell into the oil at all. I'm going to be replacing the oil anyways and IF there were to be any shaving that I miss, the oil filter should pick it up without issues. I've done worse....lol.
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2006 E55 AMG --old cars -- E39 M5, 2.7tt Audi S4, E36 M3 **Ducati 996, 748
I am concerned about the key being tall enough -- hard to tell from the pictures -- but looks as if the OEM key was half the length but twice as tall as the one you put in ... If thats the case -- You better make that new key taller.... other wise it looks great - good luck