- Mercedes Benz E Class AMG: How to Install Coilovers
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
KW V2 Coil-overs E55 (Build Thread)
I completely agree that many on here will not pay a premium on the "kit" of needed parts, don't quote me on it, but I don't think they plan on adding any benz taxes on the needed hardware. Like I said, don't quote me on it. I'm about to go down to the shop in a few days for some maint. stuff so I'll see what I can find out.
Thanks again for always givin me a positive outlook.
Anyways great build and keep us updated on any more handling parts. You mentioned the car was still a boat on the track and road. Is that with the stiffest setting and how's the body roll and grip? Feeling like a "boat" is a bit vague lol.
Anyways great build and keep us updated on any more handling parts. You mentioned the car was still a boat on the track and road. Is that with the stiffest setting and how's the body roll and grip? Feeling like a "boat" is a bit vague lol.
. Compared to my first track experience with the car at buttonwillow, the car is world's apart with the coils. It handles A LOT better compared to before, but it still has a LONG way to go before being considered anywhere "good". Of course I know this is the wrong car to track but I figured why not try it out and see how far I can push a heavy azz benzo around a track.

I have the stiffness set to 14 out of 18 settings possible. 0 being the softest and 18 being the stiffest. Body roll is SIGNIFICANTLY reduced and grip is only as good as the tires.
I take the first lap pretty easy to warm up the tires and give it hell until I start feeling brake fade. Usually 3-4 laps after. I'm going to upgrading to 2-piece rotors along with trying out a more performance oriented brake fluid and R-compounds. I've been running Nitto NT-05's and they are great but I do begin to slide after a few laps because the tires can't handle the weight of my fat car.
Going to try either the Toyo R888 or Nitto NT-01's. I have to make the brake fluid will work with the car also. I hope it does
I take the first lap pretty easy to warm up the tires and give it hell until I start feeling brake fade. Usually 3-4 laps after. I'm going to upgrading to 2-piece rotors along with trying out a more performance oriented brake fluid and R-compounds. I've been running Nitto NT-05's and they are great but I do begin to slide after a few laps because the tires can't handle the weight of my fat car.
Going to try either the Toyo R888 or Nitto NT-01's. I have to make the brake fluid will work with the car also. I hope it does 
I think the car will forever be a "boat". It is 4k lbs. + after all
. Compared to my first track experience with the car at buttonwillow, the car is world's apart with the coils. It handles A LOT better compared to before, but it still has a LONG way to go before being considered anywhere "good". Of course I know this is the wrong car to track but I figured why not try it out and see how far I can push a heavy azz benzo around a track.

I have the stiffness set to 14 out of 18 settings possible. 0 being the softest and 18 being the stiffest. Body roll is SIGNIFICANTLY reduced and grip is only as good as the tires.
I take the first lap pretty easy to warm up the tires and give it hell until I start feeling brake fade. Usually 3-4 laps after. I'm going to upgrading to 2-piece rotors along with trying out a more performance oriented brake fluid and R-compounds. I've been running Nitto NT-05's and they are great but I do begin to slide after a few laps because the tires can't handle the weight of my fat car.
Going to try either the Toyo R888 or Nitto NT-01's. I have to make the brake fluid will work with the car also. I hope it does 
I run Hawk HT10 pads on my track car, and love them. Once you bed them, they are fantastic. I am running a completely stock brake setup on my BMW and ATE Type 200 fluid, and I push it hard into corners. Never had fade or loss of pedal. I will say, that on my 911, when I first started going to the track, that even with a good setup, technique was important. I was braking way to early and heating up the system. Once I started braking more efficiently, that all changed. Sorry if this is old news to you, just trying to help.
Bill
. Compared to my first track experience with the car at buttonwillow, the car is world's apart with the coils. It handles A LOT better compared to before, but it still has a LONG way to go before being considered anywhere "good". Of course I know this is the wrong car to track but I figured why not try it out and see how far I can push a heavy azz benzo around a track.

I have the stiffness set to 14 out of 18 settings possible. 0 being the softest and 18 being the stiffest. Body roll is SIGNIFICANTLY reduced and grip is only as good as the tires.
I take the first lap pretty easy to warm up the tires and give it hell until I start feeling brake fade. Usually 3-4 laps after. I'm going to upgrading to 2-piece rotors along with trying out a more performance oriented brake fluid and R-compounds. I've been running Nitto NT-05's and they are great but I do begin to slide after a few laps because the tires can't handle the weight of my fat car.
Going to try either the Toyo R888 or Nitto NT-01's. I have to make the brake fluid will work with the car also. I hope it does
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
But they are better in the handling department from the get, esp if they have the 030 package
nlpamg’s stout (and well-driven) M5 was, in fact, just a blink faster.
Trust we’ll see you out there mixing it up again soon. :y
But to the best of my knowledge most of the hard core racers are the E guys. Most of the CLS guys are for the looks and don't care much about the track or 1/4 mile . I have raced a few E's, i have not seen any advantage in speed for them over the CLS

( Read edit for this part...My car is runnin absolutely fantastic
)If I'm not mistaken, he will offer a package of everything or you can go out and try it out yourself as you will have all the part numbers and what not.
Last edited by BenzoBoi; Aug 3, 2011 at 01:21 PM.
I run Hawk HT10 pads on my track car, and love them. Once you bed them, they are fantastic. I am running a completely stock brake setup on my BMW and ATE Type 200 fluid, and I push it hard into corners. Never had fade or loss of pedal. I will say, that on my 911, when I first started going to the track, that even with a good setup, technique was important. I was braking way to early and heating up the system. Once I started braking more efficiently, that all changed. Sorry if this is old news to you, just trying to help.
Bill
Thanks for your input! You can always learn something when sharing your experiences with others. I appreciate it!

For a big car like mine with a "little" grunt down low, I figured braking a little earlier, straightening out the car and giving it hell would be the best line. I've been playing with different lines at the track and this one seems to work the best for me at the moment. I'm sure it all depends on the the individual driver's style and the track.
Thanks for your input! You can always learn something when sharing your experiences with others. I appreciate it!

For a big car like mine with a "little" grunt down low, I figured braking a little earlier, straightening out the car and giving it hell would be the best line. I've been playing with different lines at the track and this one seems to work the best for me at the moment. I'm sure it all depends on the the individual driver's style and the track.
Bill
Completely agree that instructors help A LOT. I've also taken countless laps in friend's cars who clock some pretty decent times at BW and the streets.
Always learning.
For anyone who has an AirMatic failure (and doesn't have a warranty) this is the way to go....
Depending on the package price, it might be worth doing even BEFORE the failure occurs!

-G










