Cracked Evosport Header - Now What?
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Cracked Evosport Header - Now What?
My car's at the dealer for a routine service, and my SA calls and confirms my suspicion - the passenger side Evosport shorty header has a major crack in it. He didn't specify the exact location other than it was on the top side, so I won't know until I get my car back tomorrow. What's sad is that I had my car up on my lift last weekend looking for the leak causing the noise, and being the ace mechanic I am, only inspected the bottom sides of each header and found nothing. It didn't even occur to me to look on the top sides. 
He told I should check with whoever installed them and see if they had a warranty, but I already know they don't. I guess the good news is I got three years out of them before they failed, but maybe they should have lasted longer; I just don't know.
So this means I have options; lots of options.
I could remove the cracked header, have it repaired, and reinstall it. Or I could temporarily reinstall the OEM logs while I figure out my next option. Or I could just drive with it cracked while I acquire and try another brand of shorty headers. Or the same with long tubes. Anyone else dealt with a failed header? And what's the best course of action now? Anyone got a set of headers they'd like to unload really cheap? Let me know what you've got.
He told I should check with whoever installed them and see if they had a warranty, but I already know they don't. I guess the good news is I got three years out of them before they failed, but maybe they should have lasted longer; I just don't know.So this means I have options; lots of options.
I could remove the cracked header, have it repaired, and reinstall it. Or I could temporarily reinstall the OEM logs while I figure out my next option. Or I could just drive with it cracked while I acquire and try another brand of shorty headers. Or the same with long tubes. Anyone else dealt with a failed header? And what's the best course of action now? Anyone got a set of headers they'd like to unload really cheap? Let me know what you've got.
Last edited by komp55; Jun 1, 2011 at 04:44 PM.
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From: Texas
e55 w/LET TUNE Drinks: vodka STRAIGHT Wheels: 19" HRE 547r Mods:FF headers ASP Pulley
My car's at the dealer for a routine service, and my SA calls and confirms my suspicion - the passenger side Evosport shorty header has a major crack in it. He didn't specify the exact location other than it was on the top side, so I won't know until I get my car back tomorrow. What's sad is that I had my car up on my lift last weekend looking for the leak causing the noise, and being the ace mechanic I am, only inspected the bottom sides of each header and found nothing. It didn't even occur to me to look on the top sides. He told I should check with whoever installed them and see if they had a warranty, but I already know they don't. I guess the good news is I got three years out of them before they failed, but maybe they should have lasted longer; I just don't know.
So this means I have options; lots of options.
I could remove the cracked header, have it repaired, and reinstall it. Or I could temporarily reinstall the OEM logs while I figure out my next option. Or I could just drive with it cracked while I acquire and try another brand of shorty headers. Or the same with long tubes. Anyone else dealt with a failed header? And what's the best course of action now? Anyone got a set of headers they'd like to unload really cheap? Let me know what you've got.
He told I should check with whoever installed them and see if they had a warranty, but I already know they don't. I guess the good news is I got three years out of them before they failed, but maybe they should have lasted longer; I just don't know.So this means I have options; lots of options.
I could remove the cracked header, have it repaired, and reinstall it. Or I could temporarily reinstall the OEM logs while I figure out my next option. Or I could just drive with it cracked while I acquire and try another brand of shorty headers. Or the same with long tubes. Anyone else dealt with a failed header? And what's the best course of action now? Anyone got a set of headers they'd like to unload really cheap? Let me know what you've got.
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None fast enough!
komp55,
PLEASE have them check the motor mounts. The only time I have seen one crack is if the mounts are failing or have failed.
We do offer a pretty complete warranty however, so you should contact the dealer you purchased them from and we can work with them to rectify the issue ASAP.
We do have a revision in the design that adds material and gussets to the flange area as well, to help with the issue when the mounts start to go.
Thanks
Brad
PLEASE have them check the motor mounts. The only time I have seen one crack is if the mounts are failing or have failed.
We do offer a pretty complete warranty however, so you should contact the dealer you purchased them from and we can work with them to rectify the issue ASAP.
We do have a revision in the design that adds material and gussets to the flange area as well, to help with the issue when the mounts start to go.
Thanks
Brad
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From: California, USA
E63 P30, CL500 Sport
My car's at the dealer for a routine service, and my SA calls and confirms my suspicion - the passenger side Evosport shorty header has a major crack in it. He didn't specify the exact location other than it was on the top side, so I won't know until I get my car back tomorrow. What's sad is that I had my car up on my lift last weekend looking for the leak causing the noise, and being the ace mechanic I am, only inspected the bottom sides of each header and found nothing. It didn't even occur to me to look on the top sides. He told I should check with whoever installed them and see if they had a warranty, but I already know they don't. I guess the good news is I got three years out of them before they failed, but maybe they should have lasted longer; I just don't know.
So this means I have options; lots of options.
I could remove the cracked header, have it repaired, and reinstall it. Or I could temporarily reinstall the OEM logs while I figure out my next option. Or I could just drive with it cracked while I acquire and try another brand of shorty headers. Or the same with long tubes. Anyone else dealt with a failed header? And what's the best course of action now? Anyone got a set of headers they'd like to unload really cheap? Let me know what you've got.
He told I should check with whoever installed them and see if they had a warranty, but I already know they don't. I guess the good news is I got three years out of them before they failed, but maybe they should have lasted longer; I just don't know.So this means I have options; lots of options.
I could remove the cracked header, have it repaired, and reinstall it. Or I could temporarily reinstall the OEM logs while I figure out my next option. Or I could just drive with it cracked while I acquire and try another brand of shorty headers. Or the same with long tubes. Anyone else dealt with a failed header? And what's the best course of action now? Anyone got a set of headers they'd like to unload really cheap? Let me know what you've got.
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Thread Starter
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ML550
Picked up the car today and took a photo of the cracked header. The crack is visible inside the circle formed by the ignition wire. Good God! Not what I'd expect from a $2K + set of headers.
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E63 P30, CL500 Sport
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ML550
The Evosport shorties retailed for just under $3K at the time I bought them over three years ago. The retail price has subsequently dropped as more competitors entered the market place.
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Just posted my Evosport shorty headers a few weeks ago. These are brand new in the box. Price drop $1400.00
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From: Philadelphia, PA
2008 A8L, 2002 996TT X50, 2009 X5
A friend of mine was selling his Evosport shorty headers for $1k a couple of weeks ago. If they are not sold, he maybe willing to go lower. I believe they only had 3k miles on them and are ceramic coated. Let me know if you are interested and I'll get more information
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From: LA
W213 E63
I do not want to turn this into a fiasco but how do the Evo's compare to the competition as far as shorties? It seems that the pries are all similar, they can be had for ~$900 used and ~$1400 new...
If you're gonna tell me to buy a $3000 set because they are manufactured by Spartans in Sparta, don't.
Komp, weld that SOB and call it a day; unless you have spare cash laying around and then pick up some long tubes!
If you're gonna tell me to buy a $3000 set because they are manufactured by Spartans in Sparta, don't.
Komp, weld that SOB and call it a day; unless you have spare cash laying around and then pick up some long tubes!
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2005 E55
You might be able to weld that while its still on the car.Im sure at this point you just eant the cheapest way to fix it.
Take off the air box and remove a few plug wires and see if it can be fixed while on the car.
You can also try some stuff they sell at auto zone that patches cracked headers.its some crazzy paste that can take like 3000 degrees.that will cost you 10 bucks and worth a shot.
Take off the air box and remove a few plug wires and see if it can be fixed while on the car.
You can also try some stuff they sell at auto zone that patches cracked headers.its some crazzy paste that can take like 3000 degrees.that will cost you 10 bucks and worth a shot.
Last edited by skratch77; Jun 3, 2011 at 08:10 AM.
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I'm thinking maybe going long tubes, but most of the designs out there seem to be intended for making peak HP in the uppermost regions of the RPM band (based on the huge primaries, etc.), which is great if you spin your engine up over 5,500 RPM most of the time where the "reported" huge gains occur. For for a car that's a primarily a DD though, it doesn't seem worth it when mid-RPM torque gains aren't improved much, if at all, over shorties in the same RPM range. Seems like only Supersprint offers LTs oriented towards decent gains over shorties in the mid-RPM bands, but they're on expensive side. Always a compromise when picking your mods.
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Komp55,
Not sure if you saw my post above, but 2 things are pretty critical on this:
1. You need to replace your motor mounts if you have not already done so. There is a reason we use mild steel. For it to crank, there has been an excessive amount of torquing into the merge collector. That can only happen with the fluid filled motor mounts begin to or have totally failed. This allows the engine to rotate more than anticipated and as the exhaust is very rigid, the forces concentrate on the merge collector in the header. This will happen to ANY header, FYI. In fact, if it was 304, it would be far worse and happen sooner as 304 is more brittle after many high EGT heat cycles.
2. We have a fantastic warranty and non-warranty service package. All you need to do is contact the dealer you bought them from and they can facilitate. If you bought them direct, please contact me.
Again, we are here to help. All you need to do is follow the two steps above!
Thanks
Brad
Not sure if you saw my post above, but 2 things are pretty critical on this:
1. You need to replace your motor mounts if you have not already done so. There is a reason we use mild steel. For it to crank, there has been an excessive amount of torquing into the merge collector. That can only happen with the fluid filled motor mounts begin to or have totally failed. This allows the engine to rotate more than anticipated and as the exhaust is very rigid, the forces concentrate on the merge collector in the header. This will happen to ANY header, FYI. In fact, if it was 304, it would be far worse and happen sooner as 304 is more brittle after many high EGT heat cycles.
2. We have a fantastic warranty and non-warranty service package. All you need to do is contact the dealer you bought them from and they can facilitate. If you bought them direct, please contact me.
Again, we are here to help. All you need to do is follow the two steps above!
Thanks
Brad
Last edited by brad @ evosport; Jun 4, 2011 at 06:50 PM.
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FWIW I was able to weld and gusset my PLM with it still on the car. I do agree with brad that I beleive my failed mounts certainly contributed to the addtional stress placed on the merge weld.
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ML550
Had the dealer check the mounts when the car was in for service and the crack was discovered; they said they were okay and didn't need replacement. As a maintenance measure, I'll probably replace my mounts anyway just to be on the safe side when I do the header R&R.
As for any possible warranty availability, I bought them in "barely used" condition, so I don't really expect Evosport to warranty since I assume the warranty protects only the original owner. Nonetheless, it does suck that I have to deal with a problem I really shouldn't have to be dealing with.
As for any possible warranty availability, I bought them in "barely used" condition, so I don't really expect Evosport to warranty since I assume the warranty protects only the original owner. Nonetheless, it does suck that I have to deal with a problem I really shouldn't have to be dealing with.
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From: Treasure Island, FL
GLE 63S
Had the dealer check the mounts when the car was in for service and the crack was discovered; they said they were okay and didn't need replacement. As a maintenance measure, I'll probably replace my mounts anyway just to be on the safe side when I do the header R&R.
As for any possible warranty availability, I bought them in "barely used" condition, so I don't really expect Evosport to warranty since I assume the warranty protects only the original owner. Nonetheless, it does suck that I have to deal with a problem I really shouldn't have to be dealing with.
As for any possible warranty availability, I bought them in "barely used" condition, so I don't really expect Evosport to warranty since I assume the warranty protects only the original owner. Nonetheless, it does suck that I have to deal with a problem I really shouldn't have to be dealing with.
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Anyone know if JB Weld can withstand high temps?
