Help: new engine or rebuild?
#52
MBWorld Fanatic!
This is bull**** I'm sick of seeing cyl 8 failures. They all seem to happen with the 180ASP pulley. To the OP sorry to hear about your mishap hopefully you can work it out quickly. Been there and done that man if you need any info or help PM me.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...k-stomach.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...k-stomach.html
#53
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2005 E55 AMG
I know, you have to deal with the manifolds anyways so the header install is a piece of cake with the engine out. I just hate the fact how shops charge you $2000 for an engine swap that they'd do for $1000 if you had a Chevy. ![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Regardless, $2K sounds reasonable enough.
![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Regardless, $2K sounds reasonable enough.
#54
MBWorld Fanatic!
I get that the enormous amounts of heat can melt pistons. So larger pulley>more boost>more heat= problems.
Questions:
1. How and why does cylinder 8 fail?
2. Does pulley "brand" matter or is it the size?
3. Does upgrading your HE remove a little bit of the risk of this happening or does it just ensure you run more consistently (IAT down)?
4. I have a 180mm pulley and no cooling mods. Can I drive from LA to Vegas later this month?
Thanks!
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#55
MBWorld Fanatic!
Guys please help me understand!
I get that the enormous amounts of heat can melt pistons. So larger pulley>more boost>more heat= problems.
Questions:
1. How and why does cylinder 8 fail?
2. Does pulley "brand" matter or is it the size?
3. Does upgrading your HE remove a little bit of the risk of this happening or does it just ensure you run more consistently (IAT down)?
4. I have a 180mm pulley and no cooling mods. Can I drive from LA to Vegas later this month?
Thanks!![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I get that the enormous amounts of heat can melt pistons. So larger pulley>more boost>more heat= problems.
Questions:
1. How and why does cylinder 8 fail?
2. Does pulley "brand" matter or is it the size?
3. Does upgrading your HE remove a little bit of the risk of this happening or does it just ensure you run more consistently (IAT down)?
4. I have a 180mm pulley and no cooling mods. Can I drive from LA to Vegas later this month?
Thanks!
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#57
MBWorld Fanatic!
This is bull**** I'm sick of seeing cyl 8 failures. They all seem to happen with the 180ASP pulley. To the OP sorry to hear about your mishap hopefully you can work it out quickly. Been there and done that man if you need any info or help PM me.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...k-stomach.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...k-stomach.html
#58
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96 and 08 911 turbos
my good lord, reading this thread is like watching a monkey ****ing a football.
There is so much bull**** and misinformation its hateful.
and LOL at the guy who thinks plastigauge is the way to go thinking rebuilding an engine is easy.
There is so much bull**** and misinformation its hateful.
and LOL at the guy who thinks plastigauge is the way to go thinking rebuilding an engine is easy.
#59
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96 and 08 911 turbos
Guys please help me understand!
I get that the enormous amounts of heat can melt pistons. So larger pulley>more boost>more heat= problems.
Questions:
1. How and why does cylinder 8 fail?
2. Does pulley "brand" matter or is it the size?
3. Does upgrading your HE remove a little bit of the risk of this happening or does it just ensure you run more consistently (IAT down)?
4. I have a 180mm pulley and no cooling mods. Can I drive from LA to Vegas later this month?
Thanks!![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I get that the enormous amounts of heat can melt pistons. So larger pulley>more boost>more heat= problems.
Questions:
1. How and why does cylinder 8 fail?
2. Does pulley "brand" matter or is it the size?
3. Does upgrading your HE remove a little bit of the risk of this happening or does it just ensure you run more consistently (IAT down)?
4. I have a 180mm pulley and no cooling mods. Can I drive from LA to Vegas later this month?
Thanks!
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The proper way to develop tunes for modified cars is to put egt probes in each cylinder header tube to figure out if any cylinders run leaner or hotter than others.
From what I've seen from powerful supercharged V8s, the routing of the fuel rails can cause certain cylinders to lean out, as can intake design (although thats less of a problem with a pos. displacement blower). Also, depending on how the coolant flows and how it is routed back to the radiator can have a big effect on heat in certain cylinders.
For example, on modular mustang Cobra DOHC V8s, the coolant would dead end on cylinders 7 and 8 because there wasn't a direct route back to the heater core in that case. So, the fix for that was a kit that removed a freeze plug, and added a fitting and tubing to the heater core. This causes much more even cylinder cooling, and a lesser chance of detonation.
#60
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2005 E55 AMG
![slap](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/slap.gif)
Didn't we already have this conversation? Since you obviously think I'm an idiot, why not post some actual info that may be helpful for the OP. I'm guessing it'll go like this:
"take out your check book, fill out a new check but leave the amount blank, then just hand it over to the MB dealer and your car will come out running perfectly in no time".
I can't stand people like you who think everything in an AMG engine must be done with an electron microscope and with Steven Hawking helping you to build it. Guess what? I'm the guy who got flamed for cutting into my crank shaft with a dremel to put a long key since I sheared my oem one ( which I didn't fix and it's still screwed up ) and put a wobbly 180mm pulley on. And guess what? IT STILL WORKS PERFECTLY!
#61
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2005 E55 AMG
The proper way to develop tunes for modified cars is to put egt probes in each cylinder header tube to figure out if any cylinders run leaner or hotter than others.
#62
Member
Thread Starter
Interesting because the guy I am 99% sure I'm purchasing my engine from is building/tuning his E55 that exact way, egt probes in all eight of his MBH long tubes...
"going to be a head turner"
"going to be a head turner"
#64
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#65
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Porsche 991S, Cayenne S, 1972 BMW 3.0CS E9 Coupe
I think that's the main point.
As far as plastigauge, debating its accuracy is as old as the hills. The only real reason it's used is primarily because people don't want to spend the money on a set of mics.
GM may say it's okay to use in their workshop manuals, but that doesn't mean they don't use micrometers either. Plastigauge can be a good measuring tool as a back up but most serious engine builders don't rely on it 100%. It's good for double checks in certain applications. And plastigauge is only as accurate as the person measuring it, a dial gauge is more easily read. Plastigauge is better than nothing obviously.
I know one of the top Porsche engine builders (he's in Torrance CA) and he uses mics, so to say that the "industry uses plastigauge" is a bit misleading. Maybe "sometimes uses it in conjunction" is the better way of saying it.
fwiw, here's a 2-year old article on "how accurate is plastigauge?" http://www.carcraft.com/techfaq/116_...ter/index.html
"It's a tough call. If you only plan on ever building one or two engines in your life, it's difficult to justify spending big dollars on specialty engine tools like a micrometer and a dial-bore gauge. But the truth of the matter is that if you spend the coin on the right parts, it just isn't worth it to risk not accurately measuring clearances. Many car crafters still rely on the trusty old Plastigage to keep them out of trouble, but just how accurate is this simple little tool? We wanted to find out."
"After we torqued the rod cap and then removed it, we used the Plastigage package to compare its width to a particular clearance. While our careful mic measurements indicated a clearance of 0.0031 inch, the Plastigage indicated a much tighter 0.0015-inch clearance-or roughly half of what we mic'd. We double-checked our measurements, but the results were within 0.0001 inch."
#66
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#67
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2005 E55 AMG
+1
I think that's the main point.
As far as plastigauge, debating its accuracy is as old as the hills. The only real reason it's used is primarily because people don't want to spend the money on a set of mics.
GM may say it's okay to use in their workshop manuals, but that doesn't mean they don't use micrometers either. Plastigauge can be a good measuring tool as a back up but most serious engine builders don't rely on it 100%. It's good for double checks in certain applications. And plastigauge is only as accurate as the person measuring it, a dial gauge is more easily read. Plastigauge is better than nothing obviously.
I know one of the top Porsche engine builders (he's in Torrance CA) and he uses mics, so to say that the "industry uses plastigauge" is a bit misleading. Maybe "sometimes uses it in conjunction" is the better way of saying it.
fwiw, here's a 2-year old article on "how accurate is plastigauge?" http://www.carcraft.com/techfaq/116_...ter/index.html
"It's a tough call. If you only plan on ever building one or two engines in your life, it's difficult to justify spending big dollars on specialty engine tools like a micrometer and a dial-bore gauge. But the truth of the matter is that if you spend the coin on the right parts, it just isn't worth it to risk not accurately measuring clearances. Many car crafters still rely on the trusty old Plastigage to keep them out of trouble, but just how accurate is this simple little tool? We wanted to find out."
"After we torqued the rod cap and then removed it, we used the Plastigage package to compare its width to a particular clearance. While our careful mic measurements indicated a clearance of 0.0031 inch, the Plastigage indicated a much tighter 0.0015-inch clearance-or roughly half of what we mic'd. We double-checked our measurements, but the results were within 0.0001 inch."
I think that's the main point.
As far as plastigauge, debating its accuracy is as old as the hills. The only real reason it's used is primarily because people don't want to spend the money on a set of mics.
GM may say it's okay to use in their workshop manuals, but that doesn't mean they don't use micrometers either. Plastigauge can be a good measuring tool as a back up but most serious engine builders don't rely on it 100%. It's good for double checks in certain applications. And plastigauge is only as accurate as the person measuring it, a dial gauge is more easily read. Plastigauge is better than nothing obviously.
I know one of the top Porsche engine builders (he's in Torrance CA) and he uses mics, so to say that the "industry uses plastigauge" is a bit misleading. Maybe "sometimes uses it in conjunction" is the better way of saying it.
fwiw, here's a 2-year old article on "how accurate is plastigauge?" http://www.carcraft.com/techfaq/116_...ter/index.html
"It's a tough call. If you only plan on ever building one or two engines in your life, it's difficult to justify spending big dollars on specialty engine tools like a micrometer and a dial-bore gauge. But the truth of the matter is that if you spend the coin on the right parts, it just isn't worth it to risk not accurately measuring clearances. Many car crafters still rely on the trusty old Plastigage to keep them out of trouble, but just how accurate is this simple little tool? We wanted to find out."
"After we torqued the rod cap and then removed it, we used the Plastigage package to compare its width to a particular clearance. While our careful mic measurements indicated a clearance of 0.0031 inch, the Plastigage indicated a much tighter 0.0015-inch clearance-or roughly half of what we mic'd. We double-checked our measurements, but the results were within 0.0001 inch."
Regardless, you can use whatever you want. I'll use whatever I want. It's worked flawlessly for me for years and on many builds. I have yet to have an engine failure that wasn't due to excess power. I also don't believe in taking out a blank check and having it solve all my problems.
We are off topic once again. Sorry OP, I'll end it.
#68
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96 and 08 911 turbos
"take out your check book, fill out a new check but leave the amount blank, then just hand it over to the MB dealer and your car will come out running perfectly in no time".
I can't stand people like you who think everything in an AMG engine must be done with an electron microscope and with Steven Hawking helping you to build it. Guess what? I'm the guy who got flamed for cutting into my crank shaft with a dremel to put a long key since I sheared my oem one ( which I didn't fix and it's still screwed up ) and put a wobbly 180mm pulley on. And guess what? IT STILL WORKS PERFECTLY!
In fact, building an engine properly, including measuring all necessary parts with the correct tools takes skill. Just about anybody could take the parts and bolt them together if I gave them a list of what to do, but thats not exactly doing it right.
As for AMG engines, I'm actually on the other end of that spectrum. I don't think there is anything particularly special about them. However, with the exception of maybe a plain old small black chevy, I would use the correct tools and a "clean room atmosphere" to assemble the engine...from a honda 4 banger to a ferrari v12.
as for your crank snout...it will work perfectly until it doesn't. Then when it takes a chunk out of the crank, you'll be screwed. You didn't have much choice, but don't pretend that your solution is a great one.
I don't think there is an engine on the planet in which each cylinder performs exactly the same.
Had tuners used the 8 egt probes, they would have seen that the number 8 cylinder probably runs leaner or hotter than the others. Then what you do is tune for the most dangerous cylinder. While race cars have the ability to adjust a/f for each cylinder, on a street car, you create a margin for error by adding enough fuel and retarding timing to the point where your most dangerous cylinder is still ok.
By using a single wideband or EGT, you simply wouldn't have a clue.
fwiw, here's a 2-year old article on "how accurate is plastigauge?" http://www.carcraft.com/techfaq/116_...ter/index.html
[/I]
#70
Less arguing guys...lets get back on topic with solving this cyl 8 problem. His car was tuned extremely rich, the failure of cyl 8 should have never occurred. My turbo lexus and twin turbo RX-7 were all tuned in the 12 range and never had any problems with heat soaked detonation and both cars ran extremely hot with crazy amounts of boost. I understand the E55 can run hot and are more prone to detonation but a car that is tuned in the 11 to 10 AF range should never detonate unless it's just to much heat build up for these cars at the boost level of the 180 in certain hot weather situation. I think we all need to look at what mods are on most of these cyl 8 failures and who is tuning them? If all cyl 8 failures have the same mods by the same tuner then we have a problem! (Perhaps a 180 new thread with mods and how long you have had the car would be a good start) We all should also look at cars successfully running with 180 setup and compare. perhaps adding a meth kit for extra added cooling would help at higher boost levels of 180 or greater. There is a reason why Cyl 8 are failing....it would be foolish to continue letting this problem occur time after time. One or two fails no problem but having a hand full of cyl 8 failures is just not right.
#71
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Whatever we're tuning!
Less arguing guys...lets get back on topic with solving this cyl 8 problem. His car was tuned extremely rich, the failure of cyl 8 should have never occurred. My turbo lexus and twin turbo RX-7 were all tuned in the 12 range and never had any problems with heat soaked detonation and both cars ran extremely hot with crazy amounts of boost. I understand the E55 can run hot and are more prone to detonation but a car that is tuned in the 11 to 10 AF range should never detonate unless it's just to much heat build up for these cars at the boost level of the 180 in certain hot weather situation. I think we all need to look at what mods are on most of these cyl 8 failures and who is tuning them? If all cyl 8 failures have the same mods by the same tuner then we have a problem! (Perhaps a 180 new thread with mods and how long you have had the car would be a good start) We all should also look at cars successfully running with 180 setup and compare. perhaps adding a meth kit for extra added cooling would help at higher boost levels of 180 or greater. There is a reason why Cyl 8 are failing....it would be foolish to continue letting this problem occur time after time. One or two fails no problem but having a hand full of cyl 8 failures is just not right.
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
THE #8 CYLINDER ISSUE IS A FUEL STARVATION ISSUE!!
It has very little to do with the tunes since the major players that are writing these files have done so for quite few years. This topic has been covered over and over but it was always about blaming the tuner when, in reality, it was a fuel delivery issue. More to do with volume in the rail and not pressure.
As Oliverk stated, the only way to be able to see this issue would be to install EGT probes in each primary and see how the #8 cylinder temp is greater than every other cylinder.
Even if you did have long tubes installed you would have eventually had the same failure. There is only 1 proven solution to this issue and it has worked flawlessly since it has been on the market.
High speed runs through 3rd gear and deep into 4th(where the transmission is 1:1) are very high load situations and, if done repeatedly, will cause this failure.
Last edited by TTMotorsports; 06-12-2011 at 06:18 PM.
#72
THE #8 CYLINDER ISSUE IS A FUEL STARVATION ISSUE!!
It has very little to do with the tunes since the major players that are writing these files have done so for quite few years. This topic has been covered over and over but it was always about blaming the tuner when, in reality, it was a fuel delivery issue. More to do with volume in the rail and not pressure.
As Oliverk stated, the only way to be able to see this issue would be to install EGT probes in each primary and see how the #8 cylinder temp is greater than every other cylinder.
Even if you did have long tubes installed you would have eventually had the same failure. There is only 1 proven solution to this issue and it has worked flawlessly since it has been on the market.
High speed runs through 3rd gear and deep into 4th(where the transmission is 1:1) are very high load situations and, if done repeatedly, will cause this failure.[/QUOTE]
what is your one solution?
It has very little to do with the tunes since the major players that are writing these files have done so for quite few years. This topic has been covered over and over but it was always about blaming the tuner when, in reality, it was a fuel delivery issue. More to do with volume in the rail and not pressure.
As Oliverk stated, the only way to be able to see this issue would be to install EGT probes in each primary and see how the #8 cylinder temp is greater than every other cylinder.
Even if you did have long tubes installed you would have eventually had the same failure. There is only 1 proven solution to this issue and it has worked flawlessly since it has been on the market.
High speed runs through 3rd gear and deep into 4th(where the transmission is 1:1) are very high load situations and, if done repeatedly, will cause this failure.[/QUOTE]
what is your one solution?
#73
I'm sorry, I guess manufacturers are idiots too since they promote the use of plastiguage as well. You must be an AMG God or something, can you rebuild the engine with your mind? ![slap](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/slap.gif)
Didn't we already have this conversation? Since you obviously think I'm an idiot, why not post some actual info that may be helpful for the OP. I'm guessing it'll go like this:
"take out your check book, fill out a new check but leave the amount blank, then just hand it over to the MB dealer and your car will come out running perfectly in no time".
![slap](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/slap.gif)
Didn't we already have this conversation? Since you obviously think I'm an idiot, why not post some actual info that may be helpful for the OP. I'm guessing it'll go like this:
"take out your check book, fill out a new check but leave the amount blank, then just hand it over to the MB dealer and your car will come out running perfectly in no time".
#74
[qute]THE #8 CYLINDER ISSUE IS A FUEL STARVATION ISSUE!!
It has very little to do with the tunes since the major players that are writing these files have done so for quite few years. This topic has been covered over and over but it was always about blaming the tuner when, in reality, it was a fuel delivery issue. More to do with volume in the rail and not pressure.
As Oliverk stated, the only way to be able to see this issue would be to install EGT probes in each primary and see how the #8 cylinder temp is greater than every other cylinder.
Even if you did have long tubes installed you would have eventually had the same failure. There is only 1 proven solution to this issue and it has worked flawlessly since it has been on the market.
High speed runs through 3rd gear and deep into 4th(where the transmission is 1:1) are very high load situations and, if done repeatedly, will cause this failure.[\quote]
what is your one solution?
It has very little to do with the tunes since the major players that are writing these files have done so for quite few years. This topic has been covered over and over but it was always about blaming the tuner when, in reality, it was a fuel delivery issue. More to do with volume in the rail and not pressure.
As Oliverk stated, the only way to be able to see this issue would be to install EGT probes in each primary and see how the #8 cylinder temp is greater than every other cylinder.
Even if you did have long tubes installed you would have eventually had the same failure. There is only 1 proven solution to this issue and it has worked flawlessly since it has been on the market.
High speed runs through 3rd gear and deep into 4th(where the transmission is 1:1) are very high load situations and, if done repeatedly, will cause this failure.[\quote]
what is your one solution?
#75
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96 and 08 911 turbos
Don't mind OllieK. He's clearly the MBWorld hypocrite, forum nanny, resident internet LEO, the know-it-all who doesn't even own the cars that he knows so much about (C63's, E55's, etc). Just post a race story or fun drive story and watch how fast he goes into internet LEO mode. Yet he gets a tune for his S500 just to remove the speed limiter. I'm sure he drives down to the Texas mile to make use of the tune - god forbid he breaks 150 on city streets and highways. Hypocrisy at its best:
![rolf](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/rofl.gif)
Running from the police and speeding are two very different things. Also, I don't whine when I get pulled over for breaking the law. If I were to whine about it, your point about hypocrisy would hold some water.
I like to drive fast, the S500 has a stupid 130mph speed limiter. I don't run from cops, and I accept the consequences of my actions.
the funniest part about your whole post is that I know more about the cars in question then the people who own them.