pearlpower

Thanks for sharing, it only takes one step to ruin it all. I put threadlocker on those bolts.

My first foray into transmissions was 20+ years ago with my 944 which lost it's ring and pinion from a 5k clutch drop. I had to rebuild that gearbox 4 times as I was not getting the backlash and bearing preload correct and blew through 2 more. $650 a pop! LOL. I can laugh now about it now.

PACougar

That's only funny, because I know exactly how you feel. I love to learn things the hard way.

tmny277

Hello all, I know this thread is old but it is very helpful. I have a question for PearlPower. I am rebuilding my 722.650 and I do not remember which way the B2 shift valve goes back into the valve body. Does the outer metal cup go in with the flat side facing in or out?

This is the odd valve that is held in with its own pin.

Thanks!

ctravis595

hey i think i might have caused the same problem with my 722.6xx tranny out of my 02 cl500

i was swapping the 500 engine out for the 55 amg and while i was mating the tranny to the new engine i did my best to align both visible gears on the tranny spline with the torque converter but the engine and tranny didn't align as smoothly as one would expect. i had to "Catch" the bell housing on the engine through the tranny with the bell housing bolts to crank the tranny to the engine. heard two "clunk/clank" noises while forcing the tranny and discovered one of the two places where the bell housing tabs stick out into the tranny (to align it properly) was slightly damaged but still usable.

is there anyway to see if i damaged my tranny without disassembling it? all teeth on spline look good and female spline inside torque converter looks fine

ctravis595

i mated the engine to the transmission again but this time without a hiccup. seems i may have pulled the torque converter off of the oil pump drive slightly when attaching it to the flywheel.

my question is, do you think i may have damage the tranny oil pump or just the torque converter? i didn't see any visual markings on any of the splines or surrounding assemblies but i did notice some metal flakes on the spline when i took them apart again

1FastAMG

Does anybody on here know if this wiggle is normal since you've been in your trannys?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/esay4d7iht...2021.26.40.mp4

pearlpower

Are you moving the input shaft back and forth?

1FastAMG

that was reaching up through the 3rd larger hole and wiggling around what i believe is called the K2 clutch pack.

I pulled the tranny out today and have some other questions.

On the input shaft, the smaller shaft that's inside the other one, mine has a LOT of side to side play and i cant remember about end play.

I took off the bell housing and the first pack that is attached to bell housing is solid as can be.

The K2 one, the outer "cage" looking part is all loose compared to the shaft and the parts inside it. Shouldn't that whole assembly be pretty solid? That's what i could wiggle around through the hole too.

Ill take another video and post it

Also the output flange and shaft are very solid as is what is left in the tranny when you pull out the K2 pack.

THANK YOU! for any advice or help

E55AMG05

I have seen many threads on these things .but never this well organized so that's how my transmission looks like when you take it out.

the reason why I am checking out this thread is because I have an issue with my transmission. whenever I am driving it locks on 2nd gear and will not pass, 2nd gear is locked on comfort mode.so whenever I go over 40 miles per hour the RPM is at like 3500 and when the car starts to whistle from the bottom where the transmission housing.

now it starts to whistle when I go over 25 miles per hour. brought it to my mechanic he said he needs to open up the transmission but the cost is really high. .anyone here know anything about what this problem can relate to is a gear problem is a pump I don't know what the problem is. I am pretty sure that you guys can come up with an answer unless you see the car I understand but what can be the possibility any options


BTW the thread here is incredible

ctravis595

There's a chance your mechanic is trying to take your money

The reason it's stuck in 2nd gear has nothing to do with "comfort mode"

It's stuck in 2nd gear because your transmission/tcu has an electrical problem

When there's a mechanical problem your transmission stays in 3rd gear.

Your transmission computer is most likely just fried from your transmission leaking fluid into it. Sometimes they are salvageable

ctravis595

Do some research on the 13 pin connector leak for our 722.6 transmissions. You should be able to diagnose the issue on your own just from getting under the car and doing a visual inspection

E55AMG05

thank you for your reply I know that mechanic he is my best friend's uncle who is also a former Mercedes mechanic really honest guy. well I'm hoping what you said I'm reading also about a speed sensor that is also an issue that causes these errors and also I wanted to know if there is anyway I can reset the codes in my transmission off the dashboard or can i just remove the car battery and put it back in on. also 2 years ago I had the dealership replace the transmission module and the conductor plate

ctravis595

Disconnecting the battery DOES NOT reset transmission fault codes. You will still be stuck in 2nd gear

E55AMG05

alright one other thing what could be that whistle that I hear whenever I'm at 3000 rpms 25 miles per hour before it would whistle at 40 miles per hour but now its 25 miles per hour it definitely has gotten much worse

SICAMG

You must hook up to a scanner and see what the trans is doing internally. Its the only way to know for sure before you tear into it. For me,I could care less what is going on as long as I know what I am after when the trans is out is my only concern. Proper diag. is crucial to any repair and to save you money.

ctravis595

not entirely sure about the whistling, sounds like the tranny oil pump about to fail but im not sure

rockthemullet

It's your conductor plate, located on top of your valve body within the pan. I swapped mine out in my driveway in about 45min (but you could call me mechanically inclined). You then have to get hooked up to a STAR or likewise and have the transmission codes cleared.

I would order a pan gasket, a trans filter, a conductor plate, the infamous connector, and fluid

SICAMG

Again have it scanned to be sure so you don't waste time and money.

rockthemullet

Waste*



I had an identical failure mode last year and it was the conductor plate, many others have had plate failures and experienced similar results especially on cars with 80k+ miles.

Even if it isn't the conductor plate, you will need a new one when you rebuild so you are only purchasing the item ahead of time... if that doesn't solve your issues.

Spend $150 on a Mercedes dealership diagnosis or spend $150 on a conductor plate. I chose conductor plate.

E55AMG05

Tnx everyone for the information the only thing that is now bothering me is that I was driving to work and back with this kind of issue and its just getting worse and worse and I am afraid that it's too late or not. I have not touch the car since the really really bad symptoms have started but now whenever I turn my car on I just hear some small grinding rattling underneath the vehicle it goes on for 2 seconds and stops and again goes on for 2 seconds and then it stops its small grinding whistle noise from the bottom. When the car had 80k miles its I replace the conductor plate along with the transmission control module. now someone here had mentioned that the noise maybe from the oil pump failing probably because I was driving it under those conditions. however when my car reached 87K miles I had a Mercedes mechanic certified take my transmission down once and replace
the oil pump and the clutch really have to say they did an amazing job a little pricey but incredible. Now my baby has 125K miles

rockthemullet

None of that you told us in the beginning...

Sounds like they didn't do such an amazing job. If the transmission has already been apart, there's not much the average owner can do for you on this site just by defining the issue. Time to take it in and spend money again.

Tall Paul

Sort of off-topic here but not really, and not wanting to hijack the thread. I've read most of the transmission threads, and like this one, the infamous adapter is there. As well, the warnings about the oil in the tcu. My question is this: how does one get the oil that has migrated through the cable, out of the cable? Is the cable removable to the point where you can flush it with brake clean (or similar)? Thanks for any help.

SICAMG

[QUOTE=rockthemullet;6283720]Waste*


Ooops...my spelling is fantastic at times.

rockthemullet

Unfortunately no, you just replace the cable with a fresh unit

SICAMG

E55AMG05... If you pull trans your self I can walk you through it. They are very easy compared to many other transmissions so if you are good with mechanical work you can more than likely fix it. I will be teaching that course at school and will be using the 722.6 as the test mule !! Parts from the dealer suck sometimes but I do have a company, Deans Tranmissions in Mass. that can get everything {almost} that you need much much cheaper.