I have a solution for wiring the pump to work more efficiently
#1
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
I have a solution for wiring the pump to work more efficiently
So I hit the track yesterday and after being stuck in the lanes for about an hour or so because a car blew up his engine so we had to wait for it to get cleaned up and then right after that got cleaned up a pro street spun and started flipping down the track near the 1/8 mile at around 170.
The guy was alright but his just built vette is gonzo.
My aits were in the 125-130s and I couldnt do anything about it.So last night I tapped into the positive wire and ran it to the positive on the front fog light.This way the pump will work like stock(when your on boost)and if your stuck sitting in the lanes you just turn on your fog lights and the pump runs constant.
This is good for when cruising you want to lower your temps say before a race and dont want to engage the blower just yet.
Next up is a huge res to hold another 2 gallons of antfreeze.
I got zero traction and ran a 12.4 with a 2.4 60ft @ 116.9
basically had no first gear and let off for about a second then the stupid car shifted and paused and took off like a beast trapping 95 in the 1/8th.
The guy was alright but his just built vette is gonzo.
My aits were in the 125-130s and I couldnt do anything about it.So last night I tapped into the positive wire and ran it to the positive on the front fog light.This way the pump will work like stock(when your on boost)and if your stuck sitting in the lanes you just turn on your fog lights and the pump runs constant.
This is good for when cruising you want to lower your temps say before a race and dont want to engage the blower just yet.
Next up is a huge res to hold another 2 gallons of antfreeze.
I got zero traction and ran a 12.4 with a 2.4 60ft @ 116.9
basically had no first gear and let off for about a second then the stupid car shifted and paused and took off like a beast trapping 95 in the 1/8th.
Last edited by skratch77; 09-18-2011 at 09:57 AM.
#2
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Join Date: Aug 2007
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05 White Pano E55, Cadillac CTS-V
You don't want your pump to just run all the time? Are you worried about it wearing out quicker by always running making you decide to do it this way?
And what were the outside temps? Heard it is getting cooler up north (friend in Virginia), still hot as hell down here in the south.
And what were the outside temps? Heard it is getting cooler up north (friend in Virginia), still hot as hell down here in the south.
#5
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2003 W211 E55, 2003 W220 S600
Just wire to the thick orange wire in the ecu box that is a switched 12v. The pump will turn on when ignition is in position 2 and will remain on when the car is running. I have been running my pump like this for the last 3 years without any issues.
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
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I took my fog bulbs out so no issues with lights on when on boost lol.
This is just when I want to force it on in certain situations
#7
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2003 W211 E55, 2003 W220 S600
That's giid if you have a rear mount.from what iv seen in the summer you don't want the pumo running all the time.it heat soaks the whole setup because it doesn't have enough time to cool down in the heat exchanger.
I took my fog bulbs out so no issues with lights on when on boost lol.
This is just when I want to force it on in certain situations
I took my fog bulbs out so no issues with lights on when on boost lol.
This is just when I want to force it on in certain situations
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#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
Mine runs all the time. The small fans on my small radiator also runs all the time. My car runs extremely COOL and wouldn't want it to invest in it any further (finally)
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
#14
I wired mine to run all the time, no resevior. No issues, I now use the AC menu to run my fans at idle to keep temps down, thats what id suggest. And hardwire the fan to a switch so when youre trapped in the lanes, you can really cool down.
check it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8vgTn-EZss
So, cool down when its off. AC menu to control fans while your staging. Game over
check it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8vgTn-EZss
So, cool down when its off. AC menu to control fans while your staging. Game over
#15
mine is wired this way too. works great
#16
Super Member
I wired mine to run all the time, no resevior. No issues, I now use the AC menu to run my fans at idle to keep temps down, thats what id suggest. And hardwire the fan to a switch so when youre trapped in the s, you can really cool down.
check it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8vgTn-EZss
So, cool down when its off. AC menu to control fans while your staging. Game over
check it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8vgTn-EZss
So, cool down when its off. AC menu to control fans while your staging. Game over
How do you activate the fans through the ac menu?
#18
Yes, see here: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...fan-speed.html
I just hold down the rest button for a few seconds, cycle through to #10, hold down the "colder" button on the passenger side until it goes to 99, then the fans kick on. Not max speed, but maintains my temps in the 84C range even in heavy heavy traffic.
I just hold down the rest button for a few seconds, cycle through to #10, hold down the "colder" button on the passenger side until it goes to 99, then the fans kick on. Not max speed, but maintains my temps in the 84C range even in heavy heavy traffic.
#19
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Yes, see here: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...fan-speed.html
I just hold down the rest button for a few seconds, cycle through to #10, hold down the "colder" button on the passenger side until it goes to 99, then the fans kick on. Not max speed, but maintains my temps in the 84C range even in heavy heavy traffic.
I just hold down the rest button for a few seconds, cycle through to #10, hold down the "colder" button on the passenger side until it goes to 99, then the fans kick on. Not max speed, but maintains my temps in the 84C range even in heavy heavy traffic.
My car was 125-130 aits just sitting in the staging lanes with the hood opened and the car off for 30-40 min.
It sucked because I only got one pass since they were so busy and at the end of the run my aits were 140 so I got super heat soaked from sitting and then my pump turned on and cooled them down but I was still way to hot and by the end of the run they were back to 130.
When I ran my best times I pretty much had the track to myself so I would do a slow pass to lower temps and then when they were around 65-70 aits I would go full blast down the track.
you have to remember that you are also on stock pulley and trying to cool a 180 with starting 130 aits is a biotch.
no wonder why half the people lose top end with 180s at the track,if there starting aits are 130-140 there already heat soaked before they even run.
on the street its a totally different animal becasue the aits are only 12-16 above ambient and thats when the 180 shines.IM still loooking for a 168 and wished I never sold my renntech.
#20
Heres the fan hotwire thread. https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...n-hotwire.html
It was so easy. Just spliced into the wire, ground the switch, boom, it works. The switch was ~2 bucks at radio shack, and theres a perfect slot for that under the hood, I just filed it out more so it sat straight up.
These fans at max speed move a ton of air
It was so easy. Just spliced into the wire, ground the switch, boom, it works. The switch was ~2 bucks at radio shack, and theres a perfect slot for that under the hood, I just filed it out more so it sat straight up.
These fans at max speed move a ton of air
#21
MBWorld Fanatic!
thanks bro,so what does your switch do under the hood? is that just a manual switch to do the same thing?
My car was 125-130 aits just sitting in the staging lanes with the hood opened and the car off for 30-40 min.
It sucked because I only got one pass since they were so busy and at the end of the run my aits were 140 so I got super heat soaked from sitting and then my pump turned on and cooled them down but I was still way to hot and by the end of the run they were back to 130.
When I ran my best times I pretty much had the track to myself so I would do a slow pass to lower temps and then when they were around 65-70 aits I would go full blast down the track.
you have to remember that you are also on stock pulley and trying to cool a 180 with starting 130 aits is a biotch.
no wonder why half the people lose top end with 180s at the track,if there starting aits are 130-140 there already heat soaked before they even run.
on the street its a totally different animal becasue the aits are only 12-16 above ambient and thats when the 180 shines.IM still loooking for a 168 and wished I never sold my renntech.
My car was 125-130 aits just sitting in the staging lanes with the hood opened and the car off for 30-40 min.
It sucked because I only got one pass since they were so busy and at the end of the run my aits were 140 so I got super heat soaked from sitting and then my pump turned on and cooled them down but I was still way to hot and by the end of the run they were back to 130.
When I ran my best times I pretty much had the track to myself so I would do a slow pass to lower temps and then when they were around 65-70 aits I would go full blast down the track.
you have to remember that you are also on stock pulley and trying to cool a 180 with starting 130 aits is a biotch.
no wonder why half the people lose top end with 180s at the track,if there starting aits are 130-140 there already heat soaked before they even run.
on the street its a totally different animal becasue the aits are only 12-16 above ambient and thats when the 180 shines.IM still loooking for a 168 and wished I never sold my renntech.
I wish I never sold that pulley either, gave Dima one hell of a deal too.. Why dont you and Dima switch pullies???