Michelin Pilot Sport - Say Bye - Bye.
10-23-2011, 08:13 PM
#1
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Michelin Pilot Sport - Say Bye - Bye.
I had some new tires to mount today, but sure as heck wasn't expecting my old tire to look like this (shown after dismount from wheel). 
10-23-2011, 11:08 PM
#5
Super Moderator
You were fitting new tires? That inner tread block hardly seems worn. Your Michelin retailer ought furnish a replacement pair no questions asked.
Some forensic investigation is certainly in order there. That PSS delamination is atypical.
Fortunate it didn’t equalize at speed.
Some forensic investigation is certainly in order there. That PSS delamination is atypical.
Fortunate it didn’t equalize at speed.
10-24-2011, 01:31 AM
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
You were fitting new tires? That inner tread block hardly seems worn. Your Michelin retailer ought furnish a replacement pair no questions asked.
Some forensic investigation is certainly in order there. That PSS delamination is atypical.
Fortunate it didn’t equalize at speed.
Some forensic investigation is certainly in order there. That PSS delamination is atypical.
Fortunate it didn’t equalize at speed.
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10-24-2011, 06:12 AM
#8
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The tire is a Michelin PS2 purchased used as mounted on a set of used rims I purchased a while back. It actually had some inner wear when I got it (was mounted on a 9.0x19.0 rim in front), but I thought I might be able to get a little more wear out of it than I was able to.
My car is equipped with a ELM v2, but is probably driven in factory height more than while lowered. It's been a while since I've had an alignment done. What are optimal camber and toe settings for a moderately lowered car - say .75 - 1.0' in front and probably .5" in the rear?
I've installed Michelin PSS now, and after drving around a bit on them yesterday, I can say I think I'm going to like them alot.
My car is equipped with a ELM v2, but is probably driven in factory height more than while lowered. It's been a while since I've had an alignment done. What are optimal camber and toe settings for a moderately lowered car - say .75 - 1.0' in front and probably .5" in the rear?
I've installed Michelin PSS now, and after drving around a bit on them yesterday, I can say I think I'm going to like them alot.
Last edited by komp55; 10-24-2011 at 06:15 AM.
10-24-2011, 06:40 AM
#10
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Thread Starter
It's hugely convenient being able to do this tire work in the confines of your own garage. No time pressure and completely able to focus on quality work. Here's the wheel assembly mounted on the tire changer with the tire sidewall lubed up for the bead roller:
The huge advantage of the better Hunter machines is that they use bead rollers to gently roll the tire bead off the bead seating area of the rim. No damage to the rim, and no damage to the tire. Here's the upper bead roller in action:
After the upper tire bead is lifted over the rim lip, it's very easy to lift out the lower bead. Here's the offending tire ready for final removal from the rim:
What's sort of pathetic is that the need for some replacement tires for my car started when the "professional" tire store I went to for a tire patch of a nail puncture destroyed the sidewall of the rear PS2 when they removed it from the rim. The service writer profusely apologized and explained what a "difficult" dismount that 275/30/19 tire was with its very low profile. Funny, the other one dismounted easily in my garage with no drama.
They did the right thing, though, and installed a new, no cost to me, Michelin PSS to replace the PS2 they ruined, but I hate having non-matching tires mounted on the same axle.
Another excellent thing about Michelin PSS is their roundness and quality. Using a GSP9700 Road Force balance and "force matching" the tire to the rim can yield some really smooth rides. I always measure the bare rim runout before mounting the tire and then measure the force variation of the wheel / tire assembly. I've got my machine's spec set to a very low RFV target of 12 (factory spec is 26). After force matching, I managed to get this one's RFV down to 9. Rides like the car is on glass. In this picture, I haven't added the balancing weight yet, but have measured the RFV:
I sincerely doubt that most tire shops: i) have techs fully trained on all the capabilities of the Road Force balancing machines (if the shop has one); and ii) take the time to actually do the extra steps needed to yield an optimal tire mounting / balancing result. Granted, I don't use my equipment as much as back when I was doing a fair amount of track (road course) events, but I still appreciate a smooth ride for daily driving, too.
The huge advantage of the better Hunter machines is that they use bead rollers to gently roll the tire bead off the bead seating area of the rim. No damage to the rim, and no damage to the tire. Here's the upper bead roller in action:
After the upper tire bead is lifted over the rim lip, it's very easy to lift out the lower bead. Here's the offending tire ready for final removal from the rim:
What's sort of pathetic is that the need for some replacement tires for my car started when the "professional" tire store I went to for a tire patch of a nail puncture destroyed the sidewall of the rear PS2 when they removed it from the rim. The service writer profusely apologized and explained what a "difficult" dismount that 275/30/19 tire was with its very low profile. Funny, the other one dismounted easily in my garage with no drama.
They did the right thing, though, and installed a new, no cost to me, Michelin PSS to replace the PS2 they ruined, but I hate having non-matching tires mounted on the same axle.
Another excellent thing about Michelin PSS is their roundness and quality. Using a GSP9700 Road Force balance and "force matching" the tire to the rim can yield some really smooth rides. I always measure the bare rim runout before mounting the tire and then measure the force variation of the wheel / tire assembly. I've got my machine's spec set to a very low RFV target of 12 (factory spec is 26). After force matching, I managed to get this one's RFV down to 9. Rides like the car is on glass. In this picture, I haven't added the balancing weight yet, but have measured the RFV:
I sincerely doubt that most tire shops: i) have techs fully trained on all the capabilities of the Road Force balancing machines (if the shop has one); and ii) take the time to actually do the extra steps needed to yield an optimal tire mounting / balancing result. Granted, I don't use my equipment as much as back when I was doing a fair amount of track (road course) events, but I still appreciate a smooth ride for daily driving, too.
Last edited by komp55; 10-24-2011 at 10:34 AM.
