Best way to wire I/C pump to always on?
#1
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Best way to wire I/C pump to always on?
I've been searching for a clean way to wire the pump to run constantly on an '06, without success.
I saw this, but can't make sense of it:
"You guys are making this to hard. No need to get anywhere under the vehicle. Remove trunk left panel. Gain access to rear sam, unplug connector 1 depin wire 3 red/yellow, stochlock or solder to wire of PLUG 9 on the back same. That circuit is key on hot and runs the rear power outlet. I have pics if needed."
Can anyone clarify please?
I saw this, but can't make sense of it:
"You guys are making this to hard. No need to get anywhere under the vehicle. Remove trunk left panel. Gain access to rear sam, unplug connector 1 depin wire 3 red/yellow, stochlock or solder to wire of PLUG 9 on the back same. That circuit is key on hot and runs the rear power outlet. I have pics if needed."
Can anyone clarify please?
#2
Here's the solution:*
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ficiently.html
*I have not tried this yet.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ficiently.html
*I have not tried this yet.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#4
Here's another location to tap from:
https://mbworld.org/forums/2454224-post1.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/2454224-post1.html
#5
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Thanks for the help guys!
Can you wire straight off that red wire in the fuse box, to the positive wire of the pump harness, or do you need to use a relay?
Does the '06 only activate the pump when the blower is engaged?
Can you wire straight off that red wire in the fuse box, to the positive wire of the pump harness, or do you need to use a relay?
Does the '06 only activate the pump when the blower is engaged?
#6
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#8
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My suggestion is that you add a fuse relay.....just in case something happens. Also, you can take out the fuse when you do not want the pump to run.....you will want that possible option.
#10
Former Vendor of MBWorld
On my old C55, I had my I/C pump wired to be on in the AUX position and at all times, when the car is running. In all honestly I don't know if you can wire it just to come on when the car starts, and not have it on when the key is in the AUX position.
I found out the hard way that sitting in the staging staging lanes with only my I/C pump on is a quick way to kill your battery. Thank God for Chiromikey being in front of me as he gave me a jump.
If found it to be a nice feture to have the fluid moving while the car was not running, but It will tank your battery pretty fast. So if you can wire it to only come on when the engine is running, Thats how I would do it.
Also, I don't think there is anyone here who hasn't had the stock bosch pump crap out on them. So if you are looking to run the stock pump all the time. It will not last. Then again, who knows? Maybe its the constant on/off crap that kills these pumps.
I found out the hard way that sitting in the staging staging lanes with only my I/C pump on is a quick way to kill your battery. Thank God for Chiromikey being in front of me as he gave me a jump.
If found it to be a nice feture to have the fluid moving while the car was not running, but It will tank your battery pretty fast. So if you can wire it to only come on when the engine is running, Thats how I would do it.
Also, I don't think there is anyone here who hasn't had the stock bosch pump crap out on them. So if you are looking to run the stock pump all the time. It will not last. Then again, who knows? Maybe its the constant on/off crap that kills these pumps.
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
Last edited by MBH motorsports; 11-22-2011 at 02:20 AM.
#11
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Thanks again for all of the help guys!
So I wired it (fused) to come on in key position 2, and installed the updated Bosch pump.
Before this I would get the IAT up to 170* (with 65* ambient) after a couple of WOT blasts. After it was in the 170s, and crusing around without boost for 10-15 minutes, the IAT wouldn't go below 140*. So, obviously the pump was dead, or there was an issue with my pump electrical circuit.
After the new pump wired constantly, the IAT stays within 10* of ambient and never exceeded 97* after a long WOT pull (75* ambient). It also recovers very quickly now.
This is the way the pump runs in my Lightning stock from SVT, and I've only replaced it once in 5 years. I'd rather replace the pump every few years and keep IATs in check.
So I wired it (fused) to come on in key position 2, and installed the updated Bosch pump.
Before this I would get the IAT up to 170* (with 65* ambient) after a couple of WOT blasts. After it was in the 170s, and crusing around without boost for 10-15 minutes, the IAT wouldn't go below 140*. So, obviously the pump was dead, or there was an issue with my pump electrical circuit.
After the new pump wired constantly, the IAT stays within 10* of ambient and never exceeded 97* after a long WOT pull (75* ambient). It also recovers very quickly now.
This is the way the pump runs in my Lightning stock from SVT, and I've only replaced it once in 5 years. I'd rather replace the pump every few years and keep IATs in check.
#12
Super Member
Thanks again for all of the help guys!
So I wired it (fused) to come on in key position 2, and installed the updated Bosch pump.
Before this I would get the IAT up to 170* (with 65* ambient) after a couple of WOT blasts. After it was in the 170s, and crusing around without boost for 10-15 minutes, the IAT wouldn't go below 140*. So, obviously the pump was dead, or there was an issue with my pump electrical circuit.
After the new pump wired constantly, the IAT stays within 10* of ambient and never exceeded 97* after a long WOT pull (75* ambient). It also recovers very quickly now.
This is the way the pump runs in my Lightning stock from SVT, and I've only replaced it once in 5 years. I'd rather replace the pump every few years and keep IATs in check.
So I wired it (fused) to come on in key position 2, and installed the updated Bosch pump.
Before this I would get the IAT up to 170* (with 65* ambient) after a couple of WOT blasts. After it was in the 170s, and crusing around without boost for 10-15 minutes, the IAT wouldn't go below 140*. So, obviously the pump was dead, or there was an issue with my pump electrical circuit.
After the new pump wired constantly, the IAT stays within 10* of ambient and never exceeded 97* after a long WOT pull (75* ambient). It also recovers very quickly now.
This is the way the pump runs in my Lightning stock from SVT, and I've only replaced it once in 5 years. I'd rather replace the pump every few years and keep IATs in check.
#13
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#14
Super Member
That sounds pretty good to me. I think I may need to change my pump soon since I have a ton of miles on there. As far as local, one of the guys here uses Buckhead Imports. Another one is Adam from Malone's Automotive.
#15
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Thanks for the reply. Do you use the Torque app to datalog? Is it too slow to watch boost in real time? It seems like if I hit it in 1st, by the time I'm at the middle of 2nd I only see 5.9 PSI. Probably need to actually log it.
#16
Super Member
You're welcome and yeah I use torque and like you I find the lag to be a bit too much. I'm forced to use it mainly for my IATs now.