All, just had TTM TB & Injector set up on my car and day 1 from the the install the Check Engine light came on. I've had to look twice because I had never seen it on before. 1 day later it went away. About 2 days of driving later it came on again. It stayed on for a day then went away for a couple days. Now its always, on. The car seems to run fine, with a little rough idle, but my cruise doesn't work. When I try to engage its says "MPH--" on the center screen. Anybody have any problems like this.

 

You are going to need to pull the code first. Who did the install?

 

Might need to do the throttle body reset..

 

AutoScope. The "Check Engine" was on when I picked it up, I turned around went back and they looked at and cleared the code and said if it came back I would have to something on the dyno. It came on again within 20 miles of picking it up from autoscope, then went off the next day.

 

Sound like they might have overlooked something. If you do not have a code reader, some auto stores will do it for you for free, ie. Pep boys.

 

There are a bunch of us running this combo with no issues. The best part of the TB kit is the fact that CELs are VERY uncommon. When they have happened, the install has in every case been the culprit (Intake Leak). The 82mm TB will not throw a code, and the fuel rail is just as solid.

You do need to do the TB reset after installation, if this was not done, the process is listed below.

We need the code, but the most likely issues are:

• TB Reset not done (correctly)
• Reused gaskets - Including rubber seal around the secondary throttle body. If any gaskets were reused, that is the first place I would look.
• Some connection / hose was missed
• TB connectors not fully seated (Top and Bottom)
• Metal tube connector behind SC is a common miss

I have had my supercharger off a lot of times, and I have reused gaskets, but if one leaks.. you will get a code. It has nothing to do with the hardware.

The reason I mention the lower throttle body: It gets hot, and the rubber gets deformed when you try to re use. When that leaks, it leaks quite a bit, and in my opinion is where your problem is.

Regardless, you need to pull the SC, and just replace all gaskets. If the shop didn't do that on install, you should work out something to cover some of the labor. I don't know how well versed they are on this engine, but my last effort had the SC off, gaskets replaced, Meth nozzle cleaned in 1.5 hours. Good luck, and let us know what the code is. You will be VERY happy with the TTM kit!!!

It would not hurt to do the TB reset first, just to make sure....


TB Reset

1. Put tb on and reset the ecu with a scan tool.Dont start the car yet!
2. Go over to the throttle body and unhook the cable going to it.
3. Turn ignition key to the stage right before the car turns on. (position 2)You should get a error on the dash. (ESP Visit Workshop) wait 20 seconds and then turn the key to the first position not 0. leaving key intact.
4. Plug the cable back in.
5. Now go put the key to the stage right before the car starts and wait 3 min,the car will re adapt the throttle body and you will hear it move on its on. While this is going on, put everything back together!
6. Start car from position 2, and everything should be okay, tap gas peddle, rpm should drop normally, if they get stuck, or if you have a CEL, you did NOT do the reset correctly!

 

I would say that your CEL has nothing to do with TTM's Fuel Rail & Throttle body but more so the install. I would have Autoscope clear the code and look over their work.

 

+1
Its a proven combo that seems to have no issues, I'm sure the solution will present its self in no time.

 

Sounds like a leak somewhere. Another reason I like to use the silicone gasket maker for the TB job.

 

That and always use new gaskets. Torquing the fasteners is also added insurance.

 

Bramage, thanks so much for the writeup. This definitely helpful. I'm hesitant to go back to Autoscope because they installed my pulley and fell off in the 1st week. Consequently, i've gone through numberous pulleys and shredded belts culminating in my last intall with them when i went to an asp pulley and TB & Rail kit. The next day the bolt backed out and left me stranded 300 miles from home as the pulley fell off and shredded all of the belts and this was their response:

Kaylan, thank you for keeping us up to date on the progress of your car and the situation as a whole.

As the car is coming back together again, I understand you want this situation resolved so that you can reunite with your car ASAP.

I feel that I need to be clear on where Autoscope stands as of today:

To date there has been zero documentation that Autoscope has performed any installations incorrectly. All parts have been provided by you, as the client, and installed per your request. We have worked alongside Eurocharged in replacing parts performing repairs based again, upon your request. Autoscope has already extended over $3000+ worth of labor and repairs to help the situation.

So, unless there is actual / factual proof that Autoscope caused any of these failures, I would ask that you stop including Autoscope in your expectations of reimbursements.


So you see why I am reluctant that they will take any responsiblility if their response ablove is any indication. And this is how they treat a person who has spent almost $10,000 in their shop since May.

I had to pay an additional $3000 to M-Power Houston to fix the mess with keyway-which I'm told was damaged when the 1st pulley came off and never proper fixed causing all the rest to not seat correctly-- and I've not had any propblems since the MPower Install with the pulley.

I'm not an ASE mechanic but logic dictates that if Autoscope put a pulley on and the bolt backs out the next day and MPower Houston puts a Pulley from the same supplier on with no problems, is that a part problem or who installed it?

I'm only stating undisbutable facts at what happened to me and their response. Autoscope has always been professional, however the real character of a business isn't when things are all good, it's when something goes wrong and how they deal with it.

All I know is this, I didn't install the pulley and I paid big $ for them to do it, even paying out of my own pocket 1 previous time over $1000 because they had me convinced it was a part problem and not their fault.

So not to derail the conversation, but at the very least I'm very dissappointed in how Autoscope has chosen to address this issue.

Consequently, I appreciate you're info because I believe I'm on my own on this one.

Thanks

P.S.
They had to do my valve cover gasket on passenger side 3 times and the motor mount they replaced needs to be replaced again.

Given this would you let Autoscope fix you car again? Or, maybe I'm wrongheaded on my assessment.

 

i have helped keksixsigma with this situation. Post number 11 is accurate and true.

 

Pep boys here wanted to charge $89 to get the code. Man that's crazy. How much to scanner cost anyway?

 

That is nuts! Code readers come with different features, and prices. A basic one can be purchased for ~40. A better version with logging capability can run a couple of hundred. They are a worthwhile investment. Get that code # before clearing in.

 

With all the modifed cars in Texas, there has to be a better shop to do the work than that place.

 

Yep, M-Power Houston did my mending and I'm completely happy and they are honest, competent, and resonable. I'll most likely take a long weekend and go back so they can do my motor mount (re-do the Autoscope job) and take a look at my TB and most likely (re-do the Autosope job). Very Very dissappointing.

 

If it were me I would change the thread title because it makes it sound like your issue is related to TTM which it is not.... just my .55

 

All it says is he got a check engine light..

 

Your being sarcastic right?

 

http://www.scantool.net/

 

I tried but only changes my first post not the thread subject, take a look at my first post, how do I change the subject on the list to that?

 

Thanks sneaky, I'll be buying one today.

 

** Update, we found that the plastic inlet to TB was not latched securely, it was even movable, can't imagine what i've been sucking in-plus had a rough idle at times.
So, we latched up, idles smooth, but one start later still get check engine that Shardul said is a TB code. So, this will probably require a dismantle and install again with new gaskets at M-Power, but as of now, it's just a nusance. This causes my cruise not to work sometimes, then sometimes it does. Full throttle works great though

 

How about sharing which code actually gets tossed out? This way others down the line can find your thread using the search feature-for those that know how it operates.

 

Ok, i got the codes, they are no longer the TB, as we fixed the unclamped inlet. As of Saturday, the 2ndary cats and resonator was removed and it's lookng for 2ndary o2's, so TB seems solved at this point. Jerry at EC will fix me up Friday, Thanks all for the info.